Aorus X5 V7, X7 V7, DT X7 all estimated for June release in USA

Had a little time to undervolt the CPU. I died at 100 in Cine, lived at 90. 3DMark was not so easy to please and I had to go back to 80 to run stable. From there I usually knock off another 5 which I did to arrive at 75 as my initial default and begin the test of running my real world software and games. Bit early to call it done but I should be close as I've run everything now with no issue. Temps went from peaking at 85 in games to 82 and I have no throttling which I don't think I had to start but in honesty I didn't check. I did move my fans to 30% at 0 to 43 and from there in a straight line to 100% at 70, the 43 was because my system is running in the range of 39 to 41 while browsing the web and I wanted to hold 30% in that use.

 

you'll need Torx T6 to unscrew the back cover and regular Phillips bits for the rest. There are about 12 screws on the back and once you're pass that, you have mostly complete access to the internals with 2 RAM slots on the other side of the motherboard

Warranty being voided is dependent on your region. So far, its only if you remove the heatpipes that seem to void warranty in certain regions. So far, no issues regarding that in Asia for me

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Just asking, the wireless antennas for the AC1535 are the same as an Intel AC8265 right? Planning to switch to the intel wifi card

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I replaced the QHD panel with a 4k panel on my unit. Posted a guide here if anyone is interested: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/replacing-the-screen-on-the-aorus-x7-dt.811662/

 

Wow, nice work.

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Can you confirm that GSync actually works with that panel since its different than the actual sharp shp145a crx1200 4k that the Aorus x7 v7 comes with normally.

 

No it doesn't.

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I got a little plan for my travel but not sure if it could be risky... (or even doable)

So I ordered a Razer 165W (19.8V - 8.33A) charger for my x5 v7 as it is lighter for travel.

Now I thought adding 15W (5V up to 3A) from the USB-C on my travel adapter.



It would help greatly for the weight but I'm not sur if I would jeopardize my battery (or the all laptop)

What do any of you think of this idea getting 180w from both power socket and USB simultaneously...?

 

You have to be careful with these swiss army knife adaptors, they're great for cell phone chargers and that sort of thing but pulling gaming laptop sytle amperage through them can be problematic as many are rated for as little as 15 amps. I cant say I tried a boatload of them but after dealing with a few that got alarmingly hot and one that melted when tested with my Clevo I stopped using them. It may be you can find a good one that can hold up but I couldn't prove in my use. IMO it's better to buy the single adaptors you need that are rated for the load you want to pull and avoid the el cheapo Chinese made 20 different plugs for 5 buck sets you see on Amazon. I started one of those on fire with a cell phone charger. If possibe it's best for (most of) Euro travel is to buy the type C cord from HID or another supplier. It's only ten bucks on HID and probably can be found for less elsewhere. You can then use an adaptor such as you show for the light duty work.

I put one of these in my check for general use so I can charge multiple items at once... https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Unive...=8-5&keywords=bestek+universal+travel+adapter along with a single plug or more if needed in my carry on for use in the airport or as an emergency power source if my check gets lost which happened to me in Rome once.

If you use a multi and particularly one which doesn't show a rating I would suggest you consider keeping a close eye on it when gaming until you've verified it holds up to the power draw. Related, some of the places you go overseas cant handle the draw from a gaming laptop going full tilt. What to look for is a place where you see the wires run in conduit on the surface from a central source. That stuff can be unsavory at times and not up to handling a long gaming session. In Budapest I plugged in with my cord so I wasn't worried about overheating and it wasn't until the lights went out that I found I had a small fire in the kitchen at what was probably once an outlet but had later become a junction box.

 

So at least it IS possible to drain power from charger and USB-C simultaneously?? Is there any tweeks in settings I should know about? (Perhaps limit the W drained from USB-C?)

The travel adapter I ordered is rated up to 660w at 110v but the USB-C can only provide 5v at max 3A.
https://www.amazon.com/SAUNORCH-Uni...13208253&sr=8-1&keywords=travel+adapter+usb+c

So adapter output max 660W-6.3A (165W-2.5A for the Razer charger and 15W-3A through USB) which gives a combining output of 180W-11.3A for the Aorus compared to the "200W" 10.5A original PSU (more like 180W because of the USB on it). At least on paper it seem to work... only not sure if the Aorus accept it...

I'll surely be very cautious testing this to get the limitations of it.

But if it can handle some mild gaming while lighten my bag from ~0.5 kg, that's a good improvement...

 

I haven't used this one but it was possible on those I tried that had the feature. With this unit having a built in 6 amp fuse I'm thinking possibly light game worthy and the fuse is comforting. I do understand the weight problem and traveling, I got this pesky X7 I'm typing on because packing my Clevo was getting to be a real problem with flight restrictions nowadays. If you don't mind update us with your results and enjoy your travels.

 

Thank! For sure, I should have everything in one month. I'll update on the tests of different case scenarios before choosing with what I'll fly in February.

Is there an app that could show the power drained on the Aorus through the power socket as well as through the USB ? That could really give a clear picture of what happens. (Hoping the USB functions only as backup)

 

If you're on Android Ampere will give you both charge and discharge amperage in millivolts and there are other similar apps available. I'm not aware of any applications which will do the same for a PC. Realistically there is no need for high tech solutions, you can test it out by plugging in and having some fun before you go.

 

I've been playing with undervolting the GPU and seen some great results, I'll post more about that later but a couple observations about thermals on this thing... Those little feet that feel like a cop out over proper design do work, I show a 2 or 3 degree reduction when deployed. I almost skipped putting them on thinking they would do somewhere next to nothing and they pegged my lack of elegance in engineering meter. I'm doubtful that there can be too many of you folks that didn't put them on but if you didn't I would consider doing so based on my results. The CPU temps go down measurably when you undervolt the GPU, I was expecting I might be able to see a little something because of the cooling design but not several degrees. I'll post a pic of my curve on the GPU, still trying to find the bottom line, I keep adding a touch more and so far it keeps taking it.

 

Do you mean the foldable feet? Did you manage to make it stable when folded?

When I placed them it was still a bit wobbly when folded... seems hard to place them perfectly Stable in both situations.

 

Mine is fine in that regard but I spent some time before I stuk em on moving them around trying to get as much lift as I could without it getting tippy.

 

Here are where my temps are sitting after a couple hour sniper 4 session at QHD/gsync with everything set to the highest option except AA which producing a frame rate of upper 80s and low 90s. Still at 75 millivolts off the CPU and GPU is as shown above and I'm starting to feel pretty good about the temps, honestly, starting to feel pretty good about the whole machine. It's not without problems... The keyboard has a hardware limitation that limits registers in the same area, a cheap out for which there is no excuse on a 3k dollar high end gaming laptop. this is the only area I rate as a complete failure. Not to my taste is the bird on the touchpad, this is admittedly subjective but still a ding because looking like you have bad taste should be optional. Having the HDMI on the side is a poor choice, these usually have big plugs and the wires are stiff making it stick well out into the area where the mouse resides, should be in the back. On the other side of the coin the form factor allows me to carry this thing almost everywhere without limitation as I can get the weight under 7 kilograms (bag and all) making it air capable world wide. Even with a slightly better loadout that includes my surface I can get in under 20 lbs which is within acceptable carry on with most carriers. Once I get there I can look forward to no excuses gaming at high frame rates/settings which is a possibility that didn't exist just a few years ago.

 

So you find same undervolt on both is better?

 

I get whatever they'll give individually, I think I'm not following you. If you're referring to my comments on taking some heat off the CPU when undervolting the GPU I think this partiular cooling solution lends itself to doing that. It isn't something I've seen before but it should be said I'm no guru. I've just been posting results as I go because I couldn't find much on this laptop when I was shopping. A lot of what I did find came from this thread so I've been trying to throw in what I've seen to add to the body of knowledge here.

 

Yeah when I did read overclocking the GPU don't do much I thought it meant undervolting as well.

I never did any overclock or undervolt but will try soon as I get back my x5 from RMA. From what I understood you undervolted both GPU & CPU at same -75mV & I was just wondering if it's better keeping the same millivolt on both while doing tests or if that is totally irrelevant?

 

Ah, I see. No, get as much as you can on both, I did get 75 on the CPU but have gone further on the GPU and I'm still pushing on that side of it. I usually start with the CPU at -50 and then go in smaller steps until I find the end. Once I do that I go back 5 from the last stable and run that for a few days until I'm feeling confident in the stability during real world use Then I turn to the GPU and do the same process. A guy could write a book on overclocking and undervolting but that guy wouldn't be me. I had a period where I played with the stuff pretty hard but that was a long time ago and I'm not current. There are quite a few video tutorials on both if you're wanting to compare peoples techniques. As to these units on the overclock side I didn't pay much attention to peoples rmethods/esults because I don't see much practical benefit when I can already play everything pretty well cranked at high frames, a few more frames would go unnoticed. Getting the thermals in better control on the other hand isn't going to go wasted on machines that some are reporting throttling out of the box.

 

Yeah for sure temps are the most important... I just tried a few 3dmark tests and got straight up to 85-90C max after 2 consecutive tests (but that's maybe normal while benchmarking right out of the box...) at least the difference were 4C max between cores

 

Never played that game, but based on your screenshot, it looks like it's horribly unoptimized for multi core/thread cpus. As such, be careful with your cpu undervolt as it might not be as stable as you think (unless you did a bunch of other stress tests for the cpu). A max package draw of ~42W is nothing compared to what the cpu can actually draw when under peek load; based on your OC and UV, probably closer to 65-70W (i've had mine draw 80W, albeit with a higher OC less UV). In other words, if you start seeing random reboots, freezes, or BSODs, lower your UV or OC.
I mention this because I had the same -75mV at that clock rate and it seemed stable, but I would have a random crash about once a week until i dialed it back to -65mV (obviously every piece of silicone is different, so yours might be fine at -75mV); At -75mV it passed stressed tests, 3dMark, and gaming, but would randomly crash on my work image where I would do a bunch more cpu intensive stuff. This is why a lot people will drop 10mV off of what they found to be a stable UV (which I did as I had no issues with gaming, 3dmark, and stress tests at -85mV, but clearly 10mV wasn't enough in my case).

 

Besides your OC/UV, ambient temp, airflow (like laptop raised on the little feet or not), thermal paste and even drivers, the temp will also be largely subject to the fan profile you're in. Unless otherwise stated, expect that anyone posting their 3dmark results ran at 100% fan setting.

 

Roger, I'm more than a week past the cpu undervolt without stabilitiy issues. I go up in steps of ten and back off to last working without issue plus 5 as I said when I was discussing the cpu undervolt and it usually works there for me as that process will leave me 10 or a little further away from last completely stable in testing. For now there is nothing I do with the laptop I haven't done since and like most people I ran the usual stress tests while I was fiddling with it. I ususally don't set mine for startup at boot for quite a while until I'm completely confifident in the undervolt and of course if it fails during the interim I'll scale back further if and when it happens.

Also mentioned in a previous post not too far back while I was discussing the cpu portion is I run at all times on my own fan curve which is set to 100% at 70C. And that it turns out the little feet are worth a couple degrees. And that it appears HID did a good job on the paste...

I do pay attention and recall your use profile that you described earlier. It's great that we have folks out on the edges with these units and I find your posts useful and informative. That use however isn't typical, I'm not even sure if you can hit typical with a rock from where you are. Anyhow I'm in no waying saying desist, please continue. I would say however that you have to remember that you're what we ordinary folks call... a power user. lol

 

@Svegetto did you make any modification to lower the 960 NVMe max temps?

I see it adds quite a bit of temps raising up to ~90C in some user's tests. (I got it more for strong video editing to place all temp files on it so it should be fairly used.)

Not sure about the heat sinks method as it should keep the temps high for longer... I was wondering if there is any other method that help?

 

I used Fujipoly 17.0 W/mK thermal pads on both of my m.2 SSDs (and move the original thermal pad from the nvme to the wifi card, because why not). I see no issues with temps when I ran ssd benchmarks nor during regular work load that is relatively ssd intensive (this includes 2x a day full image backups of that drive).
The Fujipoly 17.0W/mk are also what I used to replace the stock thermal pads on the gpu memory when I repasted the gpu + cpu.

 

Seasons Greetings everyone! Well, let me tell you all a sad tale before I ask for your thoughts. I've been waiting in line for nearly 60 days for what seems to be the elusive Aero 15X. For all intents and purposes, it looks to be a killer product; light, efficient, and powerful. However, I just can't seem to find one in the contiguous United States. I was queued to get mine in November, but that got pushed back to mid-December. Then I was told early this week that supply didn't add up for that release either so my new target is mid-January.

Well, my friends, that is a bit too long for my taste. I've pulled the trigger on an Aorus X5 V7, WQHD from HID. I've noticed that reviews on this particular unit are somewhat far and few between; most seem to focus on the QHD version, which I find odd. The WQHD seems to fit the GTX1070 better from an FPS perspective. So, on to my questions:

For those that own this particular model, does the screen use PWM for dimming? If so, does anyone know at what brightness it kicks in and what the frequency of modulation is? Is there anything that you wish you did initially with your reseller? What sort of problems have you encountered outside of RMA issues?

Thanks in advance for any advice, recommendations, and/or shared experiences.

 

The W is just added in front of QHD (four times 720P) to denote wide by some OEMs but refers to the same resolution 2560X1440, you probably already knew that and meant UHD? Congrats on your new lappy, drinking wine helps with the wait...

 

My bad, I meant WXHD. The UHD screen is 3840X2160 and seems to be too much for the 1070. You can play some stuff but you'll need to dial the detail in order to approach 60 FPS, right? Should I update my order for the more potent screen?

 

You should get what's best suited for your use because we are not to the point where you can choose screens without compromise. IMO the UHD screen is more than the 1070 can drive well in gaming, it works but you're giving up some goods. On the other hand when stepping down the screen isn't going to be great for content creation or any other work where screen color accuracy and range is important. For me QHD was a no brainer, mine is strictly a mobile gaming machine. For you?

 

A mix. I do a lot of office work (mostly union related stuff), I do like to game, and I'm getting into blender/unity development. The Aero 15X looked to be a great system but after a huge lack of availability, I reassessed my use case. I'm not in a situation where commercial power is an issue. It isn't like I'm in the field and need something for content creation on the fly. The X5 has more than reasonable battery life for the power under the hood, the cost turned out to be $60 more for a unit with the primary drive in raid 0, and it has a full force 1070.

The screen is just icing on the cake. Pantone certified 3K display?? Yes please!

 

Well don't get your hopes up that much for that Pantone Calibration Certification, my unit still had dE errors of up to 4 or 5 on some grayscales.

Good thing I have my i1 Display colorimeter to correct the white balance and colors, dE errors went down to 1.67 max and only 0.12 avg.

I mean its good enough out of the box but I feel its a marketing thing.

 

Anything under 2 is solid, right? 4 to 5 with the calibration points to, as you said, marketing drivel rather than something real. That's a bit upsetting really. After spending $2K++ on a product marketed as having a certain envelope of performance, I'd expect it to deliver. Your experience is echoed in some of the more in-depth reviews; I wonder if its something to bring up with Gigabyte/Aorus?

 

These things are built with great exactitude to be just good enough to trigger sales with the least possible cost and the screens don't need much more than a few bullet points. I say this because out in the world I see around me most don't really know what those bullet points mean and have no specific use for better screens anyways. For Mr Average Joe getting a new lappy every so many years the defualt screen is probably going to be an improvement over what he had because of how quickly tech is advancing and he is happy. Why throw money at happy?

Whether my view of the world is overly jaded or not I think it's likely they know the screens could be better and made an informed choice but did so with different criteria than the end user. All this said the screen is in fact better than my last laptop and while recognizing it could be better I have to admit I find it a nice overall experience. I cant tell you how much it hurts to admit that.

 

Well said sir, very well said. I 100% agree with you; I'm upgrading from an ASUS G75VX so I'd imagine this will be a vast improvement over what I'm currently using. Also, it sounds like if I absolutely need the display to do what it is advertised to do, the capability is there.

 

Under 1 is perfect, under 3 is considered good and under 5 is OK.

What I said earlier is about the QHD display, as for the 4K display it was good out of the box if I remember correctly.

To me its not much of an issue, I would still get the laptop even if I knew that beforehand, Aorus is the only company who makes a laptop the way I want, a Premium Portable 17" Gaming Beast.

The closest competitor is the Razer Blade Pro which is like $1K more expensive and worse overall.

You'll love it, huge upgrade over what you currently have, probably the only thing that will be worse is that it'll be slightly more noisy but thats the price you pay for going that thin, also you can control the fans yourself, I keep mine at 65% max, that way its bearable noise wise and still the temps are under 85C under max load.

 

So there I was... My gaming performance had suddenly dropped to less than half out of the blue. I looked at a number of factors and was beginning to contemplate where I was going to have to send it when I realized the plug had come a little loose at the power brick and I was on battery. The repair involved the highly technical act of re-seating the plug at which point the lappy was fully functional again.

 

Can you post a guide? I'm not sure which end goes where

 

Hi all,
Im seriously thinking about getting the x7 v7 cf2 as I travel about and this seem a good option.

https://www.notebookcheck.net/Aorus-X7-v7-7820HK-GTX-1070-QHD-Laptop-Review.242112.0.html

Just wanted to know what you guys thought of it, regret not getting the 1080 version or are you still happy with it, thermals, reliability, weight.

Any advise would be great before pulling the trigger.

Jim

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I personally chose the x5 v7 cf1 for travel. It juuust fits my oggio renegade backpack and still perform OK with a tiny 165w Razer charger as long as I don't try some 4k gaming benchmarking.

I tried both 3dmark firestrike in 1080 (keeps charging all the way) and PCmark 10 (stopped charging for 1s during rendering 3d)

I'll start trying some real life tests in the next few days. (but for now it seems the 165w charger is a real option while making some small compromise in travel for more compactness)

The 17" isn't much bigger but it may not fit bags "designed for 17"

 

On another note, did anyone managed to get all FN+# keys working?

Seems only SLEEP & VOL adjustment is working...

Brightness adjustment, disable wifi, etc. Don't respond...

(BIOS is FB0E/F00A)

 

Thanks mate, I had a serious think and decided to go with the version I mentioned. Can't wait..... Should be here by Friday. Any top tips for when I get it?

Cheers jim

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The basic thing anyone would say is to repaste it with LM to drop temps at max. It requires to be precise but when you read people get -20C after doing it...

 

Cheers for the tip. I dhall see what my temps are out of the box. Reference protection. Any recommendations? I like the official aorus neoprene sleeve but can't seem to get hold of it in the UK.

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If you use Notebookcheck.net as a reference, a stock X5 will hit about 90C on the CPU and mid-eighties with its GPU. My X5 has LM on the CPU and a repaste on the GPU; I'm seeing low seventies under load on the CPU and about the same on the GPU. The 20 degree claim seems pretty fair.

 

Depending on your luck in the silicon lottery you might very well be throttling out of the box (along with those high temps) based on some of the reports around the forums here so trying an undervolt is something I would recommend you consider. It was well worth undervolting on my X7, I was in the lower to upper 80s depending on game with a full re-paste from HID out of the box and was able to take 10 degrees off that with an undervolt that is fully stable. By stable I've had it in getting toward a month now with no issue of any kind. The GPU was particularly amenable but I also got some on the CPU leaving me anywhere from as low as 69 or 70 in an old game like D3 to upper 70s with the latest games I have. I didn't check if I was losing cycles out of the box because as soon as I saw my temps I knew it was undervolt time to see if I could get those under better control. I can say I'm not throttling now though so if I had been it got fixed in the process. I'm resting a little easier because while anecdotal my tech sluttish behavior has had me owning a number of gaming laptops and heat seems to be a real longevity factor.

 

Thanks for the detailed reply. I've picked it up and am currently updating it. Downloading games etc. Reference the undervolt I presume you did that through xtu. I are you doing all the tweaking in that or using it in conjunction with command and control? I used xtu on my clevo previously. Did you literally do an undervolt or did you tweak the frequencies, turbo max etc.

Jim

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I used throttlestop and afterburner, I find C&C an acceptable shortcut for other activities but didn't use it all at in the UV and didn't consider an OC. Didn't feel there was much point in it when my lowest frame rate is in the upper 80s gsync enabled and settings cranked. Lots of guides, videos, etc. on how to do it and I'd recommend perusing/watching several of them if your not familiar with it. I'm an old guy who doesn't get into that much anymore so others who are still fully immersed in the game can respond better and should come along shortly. In general I usually start with the CPU and work on it until stable for a week or so and only then go to the GPU. That way if you have a random hang or other instability days after the fact you know where to look without having to go into events. I also usually back off from last stable somewhat because I'm old and pathetic and don't like hassle or care about the bleeding edge, that part is an individual predilection. Used to be I pushed for that last little bit but you get pathetic in your old age...

 

Hi guys long time lurker here. Thought of join to ask quick question.

Would any m.2 ssd work with X7 V7 model? Want to pick up a spare for install later. And any recommendations for spare power adapter to keep on the side for unit?

Got this as unexpected gift.