Dell Inspirion 7577

If thats the panel list, I would go with the MSI since you can use the brightness.

 

The G5 shares a chassis with the 7577 if I'm correct, so panel compatibility should be identical, I figure I might as well ask here for replacement advice here

My shortlist of panels include

- AUO B156HAN01.1, or 1.2
- Samsung LTN156HL01 (-101 ? -102? -nothing behind?) I don't know which version to choose. I've seen a -201 from a vendor but I haven't seen a trace on Panelook? Anyone knows what's up is with "nearly sesame reference but different?)
- BOE NV156FHM-N43 (a little less gamut too)
- LG LP156WF6-SPB1 (seems a little less colour accurate, and there are a lot of -XXXX versions that are very different)
- Chi Mei N156HHE-GA1 (120 Hz wide gamut TN) seems to be a decent option too.

But my biggest issue is how to source those panels.

What I want is something shipping from Europe both for taxes and shipping costs, and also, obviously, I don't want to get a compatible panel with low or average gamut.

So far, for companies shipping from Europe, I've checked those:
Laptopscreen.com, touchandscreen (eBay) have the N156HCE-EBA, still 73% NTSC according to Panelook, but I've never heard of this panel, has anyone had any experience with it?
laptop-lcd-screen.co.uk, capitainedalle.com have nothing.
ordi-paris, lcd4laptop, bumblesales, notebookspares and notobookbitz (all from eBay) all only have lower gamut panels.

 

Can anyone share a screenshot of their msi afterburner undervolted voltage curve for 1060 max Q

 

Do you guys know how to make batterylife much longer?
Is it safe for battery if I plugin the charger evertime I boot this laptop, or should I unplug the charger if the battery still has power above 10%

Please light me up

 

Keep it at 60-65% and you'll be fine. It is best charge level to store batteries when unused.

 

To my knowledge, the 1060MQ only gets the two sliders. You cannot adjust it by the curves the way the 1070 and 1080 variants can be.

Use the Dell Power Manager application and set it to the "always plugged in" option or set it to the "custom" option and set your upper charge threshold to 80% max battery SoC so your laptop will stop charging it while plugged in once it hits 80% SoC.

All lithium batteries (cell phones, laptops, electric vehicles, etc.) benefit with increased number of charge cycles when not discharged or charged too quickly and too deeply.

In other words, don't use the fast charge option ( if you can turn it off ) and don't discharge to 0% nor charge to 100%.

Discharge down to around 30-50% and only charge up to about 80-90%. That should net you close to double the battery longevity as long as you also mind battery temperatures. (Don't leave your laptop in a hot or freezing car, but especially a hot car.)

Your average lithium battery is rated for 300-500 charge cycles, but DoD (depth of discharge) matters. If kept between 40% and 80% you should be able to get double the number of cycles, but they aren't as deep so there is that trade off.

Unfortunately a laptop has a fixed capacity and voltage unlike electric vehicles for instance. So these concepts are taken advantage of better in other areas of battery powered devices where it is far more beneficial and cost effective to sink more money into a larger or higher voltage battery at the beginning to get a better overall return on your investment in the long term.

I personally do 40-80% since I stay plugged in 95% of the time.

Oh yeah, and as @DoctorRzepa above mentioned, only charge to 100% if you intend to use that charge straight away. If your laptop is going to sit or be stored, you should keep it in the 30-40% range imo.

 

thanks for your help, you really make it clear dude.

So what is the best, plugged in everytime I boot the laptop and make charge threshold to 80%, or should I discharge the laptop when the battery has power above 40% ?

I usually use laptop about 2-3 hours in every boot.

 

What's the Chi Mei MSI TN panel model number? I have the newer Dell G7 and assuming since both machines use the same BIOS it's the same situation.. I put the AUO 120hz IPS panel in mine and have no brightness control.. we really need someone to mod a bios for us to fix it.. It should be doable.

 

Well it really depends how you use your machine and how you have it optimized/tuned.

You could boot plugged in and charge up to 80% then unplug and use it until your 2-3 hours of daily use are over and see where you land.

I would shoot to end your daily session between 30-50% SoC so the next day when you boot plugged in it doesn't take too long to charge up to 80% again which means you'll still have time in your 2-3 hour time frame to run it back down after a partial charge.

Overall I really wouldn't worry too much about it all. 40% to 80% is an easy range to stay in for your purposes. And modern battery management circuits do a pretty decent job of looking after battery health. And in addition, Windows and Dell both have fall back software based management systems built in as well.

You'd be better off getting a custom cable made that pins out correctly imo.

 

Who makes such cables? I wouldn't mind just going that route either.. but a BIOS mod is way easier without having to tear down the entire machine. Are we even certain it's actually a cable issue? I thought 30 pin EDP were all the same..

 

I used the stock 30-pin EDP cable with the Chi Mei N156HHE-GA1 and have working brightness controls.

I believe that is also the panel everyone keeps referring to as the Chi Mei MSI panel. It's used in the MSI g62-g63 series laptops.

 

What if brightness lock is just caused by slightly different pinout between panels? Maybe it's just case of changing wires in connector? Does anybody have an account on panelook and could check datasheets for these panels? Maybe it's just that simple...

 

Alright, it depens how we use the laptop. So I think we should keep 40-80% of battery power on daily use, I mean for light work. pluged in when it's under 40% and discharge it when it hits 80%.

And how about at heavy work, like editing or gaming. It will drain the battery quickly, so we have to charge and discharge the laptop in short period and that's very annoying. So I think when we boot the laptop for heavy work purposely like gaming just leave it pluged in, (we know it's not charging whe it hits max SoC or the battery power under above 50%)

So, what do think ? it is the best plan how I care the battery?

What I have learned is, it doesn't increase the number of cycles if we always leave the laptop pluged in, cause we know it's not charging, is that true?

 

Some updates regarding the situation from the previous page and the lack of good panels in Europe. I ended up with dallexpress.com, a French website and ordered a Samsung LTN156HL01-201 from them (which they told me was the usual and only IPS panel they shipped when people ordered a high gamut FHD 15.6" panel).

The bad news first. It was expensive at 112.9 euros. And I wonder whether I got shipped another panel since this is what HWINFO indicates: BOE 0649, not Samsung, I don't know what is up with that, does anyone have a clue?

The good news, it does say LTN156HL01 on the panel itself; so it could be some kind of a Samsung panel produced by BOE according to Samsung specs or whatever.

And look at the size of that bubble wrap, the bubbles are huge. No complaints about the seller, very professional, shipped within hours, and as you can see, the panel was very well protected during transport. The actual size of the box was as big as the one for the whole laptop.

Anyway, I replaced the original panel, which was the LP156WF6 SPB3, and as far as my eyes can tell, the new one is very much superior in every way.

It's bright, new 50% is old 100 %, and even at 50%, the gamma is such that the dark areas aren't crushed. That's the main issue I had with the LG. 100% is very good even in a well-lit room next to a large window.

Contrast is also much better. It seems that everything is sharper but I can't pinpoint the reason.

The colours are popping, I've rewatched the neon-lit streets of Hong-Kong in Pacific Rim and it was impressive.

The panel isn't perfect though, it's visually a tad too warm, there's bit of PWM flickering and a slight nudge of backlight bleeding. Be careful when you replace the bezel onto the laptop, if it presses onto the panel even the slightest bit, the backlight bleeding effect will be emphasized.

All in all, it's superior in every way compared to the old panel though. It's sharp, colourful and very pleasing in movies.

 

If you close the lid and turn the laptop around you might see a gap in the middle where the bezel clips into the lid and that will also cause some bleeding along the bottom if its not clipped together properly.

 

I introduced some flex on the bottom of the bezel when I removed it, the result was that some parts of the bezel fralme would push against the panel when the frame was put back onto the laptop. I had to remove the bezel frame again and bend it back into a flatter shape.

EDIT: **** me sideways, I have a green vertical line that suddenly appeared while I was browsing.

 

For those interested Battery University has a good information on prolonging Lithium batteries.

I've been thinking about this too for my situation. As you say, it depend on how we use the laptop. Battery University has a

I'm plugged in nearly all the time. With previous laptops, I would pull out the battery and leave it charged at ~40% stored away. Zero cycles .

If you are doing heavy work or need performance, you should have the laptop plugged in. I have also seen mention that this laptop can draw on hybrid power - ie pull from the charger and the battery at the same time - to draw more combined power. If this is the case, then even when plugged in, it would be possible for the battery to discharge.

The Primarliy AC setting apparently only charges to 96 percent. I could not find what the lower range on the discharge is.

Now if you need to run on battery, then the ideal range to maximise the life of the battery would be the minimal charge away from ~40% to meet the runtime you need. So maybe if you only need an hour that is (guessing!) 40-60% range. The 40-80% range is a good rule of thumb to increase battery longevity. I am doing exactly that with my phone, though obviously I don't run that plugged in all the time! I just discharge to 40% and then charge it up to 80%. If you need to run on battery, then as long as it meets your runtime, this would be good.

So, setting the battery range in the BIOS or Power Performance /Management to the 40-80% range sounds like a very good starting point!

 

Sorry for the late reply, but here is a quick pull-up of my posts on this matter:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sea...=relevance&c[user][0]=292583&c[thread]=808514

In particular, check out this link:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/dell-inspirion-7577.808514/page-51#post-10647781

Also, just start at page 48 of this forum thread and skim my posts for 10-20 pages.

Other good keywords to search my username with include: UHD , FHD , panel , 30 pin , 40 pin , 30-pin , 40-pin , pinout , etc.

 

Looking back through your posts, at one point there was a question as to whether there was a difference in cable, motherboard, etc for 6-bit vs. 8-bit panels. The stock LG panel was a 6-bit panel. The replacement N156HHE-GA1 is an 8-bit panel. Same (30-pin) cable, same motherboard.

 

Dell Power Manager if you're too lazy to go into the BIOS

 

No way to mod BIOS for this machine without tear it down and access BIOS chip directly, dump it, modify ME FW and flash it back using external programmer.

 

Don't really know where to find this on google, but can anyone tell me what the blinking white light does below the touchpad?

 

It depends, on default setting it is battery charging indicator. But, if you press Fn+H on your keyboard, it will serve as hard disk activity light.

 

Just bought a wdc 2.5 hdd 1tb 5400rpm. I have installed it, and hard drive runs fine, there is no problem at all.

But looks like it doesn't fit in case as you can see in the picture, there is little gap. I can't pull it down cause it's kinda too thick

Is there any specific thickness of hard drive for this laptop?
I don't even know that laptop hard drive has different thickness

 

7.5mm

Sent from my Z2 Plus using Tapatalk

 

*post removed*

 

yes, only 7mm hard drives fit, not 9mm.

 

Slight update.

The seller sent me another panel* within the day of me emailing them about the issue. It was hassle-free and fast. Very nice! So far the new panel doesn't have any issue.

For the hardware ID in HWinfo, they told me that OEMs often send their panels to the Dell, HP, Lenovo, etc. who will load in their own firmwares; as such, panels not from official sources don't automatically come with firmware, so it's possible that a Samsung panel from a third party comes with a BOE firmware because an intermediary will have loaded the panel with a compatible firmware to make it functional. Seems plausible.

*with a pre-paid stamp to send them back the broken panel

 

Hi! Me and my brother's 7577s are facing hdmi out stutters on TV screen while watching videos or playing games. The laptop's screen remains smooth thou. We have tried different Tvs and hdmi cables so it's pretty obvious that the problem is with our laptops' settings. We have tried changing power plan settings but the problem still persists.

 

Is the wireless upgrade to the Intel 9260NGW recommended? Any noticeable benefits to indoor WiFi stability?

 

You can upgrade it if you want. I don't notice a difference between my 9260 and any of my killer wireless cards.

 

Hi Thanks. Sorry should have clarified. I assume it will be an upgrade and perform subtlety better than the stock wireless 8265?

 

Sorry at first I was thinking 9260 not 7260. A 7260 is a step down from the 8265. Are you sure it's a 7260 that you're thinking about? The 7260 was discontinued by intel.

 

Gah! Sorry 9260!

 

No worries, I was thinking the same at first. Anyway it's likely an upgrade you wouldn't notice in my opinion. If you get one for a few bucks then sure, but I wouldn't spend much on one for something that likely won't be an issue anyway.

You can compare the two here:
https://ark.intel.com/compare/99445,94150

 

I upgraded my 7577 from a 8265ac to a 9260ac but that mainly makes sense if you have a HT160 capable router (Netgear R7800) and a NAS. HT160 allows me to hit 900-920 Mbps in real world use when doing transfers to my laptop from my NAS. Otherwise if you don’t have a HT160 capable router, you may only get modest to no gains over the Intel 8265ac and the Qualcomm 6174A (Sometimes re-branded as Killer 1535). The 9260ac also is the only card that has Bluetooth 5.0 granted not many clients at the moment but it works well with my BT5.0 Anker Spirit X earphones. I got the 9260ac in the early days for about for about $26 which is a decent price for some modest upgrades vs other wireless cards (namely BT5.0 & HT160). It should only be a few bucks more than it’s peers.

At the moment the Netgear R7800 and it’s rebadged XR500 twin are the only ones that do MU-MIMO and HT160 well without issues thanks to the excellent Qualcomm QCA9984 chipset. Seems some of the newer upcoming 802.11ax routers are also going to include HT160, including one I am about to beta test.

You could even maybe eek out another extra 100-200 (to reach 1,000-1,100 Mbps) in HT160 on the 9260ac with a 10G connection to a target NAS if you have an R9000, but that would just not be worth the cost or effort .

 

Hello everyone. I have Inspiron 7577 with 1060, i7 7700hq and 16gb of ram. Is 617-619 Marks score in Intel XTU's benchmark considered to be low? Some people who have laptops with same CPU get 1000 marks (without overclocking).

 

Hi everyone. I have one of these 7577s, and I'm planning on upgrading the RAM. I was hoping to use something like HyperX Impact or Crucial Ballistix Sport LT, but when I searched the BIOS to check if there was an XMP feature, I couldn't find it. Does that mean that it's completely non existent on the Dell 7577, or is it a setting that still might appear if you install the XMP compatible RAM? I know at least one person on this thread has reported using XMP successfully, I just want to check if anyone else can confirm that it is the case that the Dell 7577 can use XMP despite the apparently absent setting in the bios.

 

Hi guys. I didn't read all this topic, but i need help. I have Inspiron 7577 with only SSD Toshiba 256GB (KXG50ZNV256G NVMe) and i have very slow write speed. I've read some topics about this problem, but i cannot find solution. I have Windows 10 in AHCI mode and speeds are 2700/340, but it should be like 2700/1000. I would be very grateful, if someone tell me how to solve this problem...

 

Yeah I’m also interested in a reply to jak’s post above. Also what is a good utility to measure HDD & SSD performance?

My question is whether it’s worth swapping out the 5400 for a 7200 hdd? Seems like a relatively inexpensive upgrade. I’m aware of the importance of choosing a 7mm hdd rather than a 9.5mm version.

 

Im currently running Seagate Firecuda 2TB on my 7577. Slightly worst than my previous WD Black 1TB 9.5mm (yes those fit, somehow..) but all i need is space. If you want the best speed, try to find some old Momentus XT 750GB 7200rpm SSHD model, those are the best, fastest 2.5 spinny drive and the most reliable SSHD (old SSHD model like the Momentus XT uses SLC while newer models went with MLC)

 

Here is 970 Evo 500GB SSD (firmware 2B2QEXE7) on my 7577. No slowdown and throttling. I installed the heatsink for the SSD too.
I just ordered N156HHE-GA1 120Hz screen and an 32GB (2x16GB) HyperX Impact 2933MHz CL17 kit from Amazon, let see if it works...

 

Which base panel model did you start with? The FHD? That ram looks hot and expensive but it'll be dope if it works.

 

Mine is an FHD model, i switched several panel already, still havent found the one I liked yet. Maybe the GA1 panel will suit me most, fast 120Hz panel with high color gamut, and I dislikes the 4K res.
Mine already hit that 37GB/s mark, top 1% of all Intel 7th gen with dual RAM slot mobile platform (my Alienware friends are jealous af). Just need to hit that 40GB/s mark (impossible to reach on an mobile platform) and Im done....

 

I thought 7th gen only supported 2666MHz max. Is RAM above 2400MHz plug and play or does it require special mods.

 

Well, only 2400 are officially supported. Everything outside it is "out of spec". But same like its desktop sister, the mobile parts can handle much higher, just a matter of PCB/mainboard design (mobile laptop PCB usually are crap anyway, making life harder) and BIOS. It requires an special "trick" to make 2400+ sticks work (but I wont name it here, because "trade secret" of Dell RAM suppliers, you can read the review of others on Amazon because their 7577 doesnt boot with others RAM). And Dell BIOS dislikes RAM stick with XMP profiles so you have to tune it manually.
Dell G5/7 suffer the same problem with RAM too

 

Hey guys, what do you think about upgrading FHD panel to UHD?

I researched a bit:
1) The stock UHD panel is AUO B156ZAN02.0.
2) UHD laptop has special lid because mounting holes of UHD panel are different from FHD one.
3) FHD laptop has 40-30 pin LVDS cable, so probably motherboards are the same.

But there exists AUO B156ZAN02.3 with the same dimensions and mounting holes as stock FHD panel. I want to install this panel to avoid replacing the lid.

The questions are:
1) Will stock B156ZAN02.0 from UHD laptop work in FHD laptop (with appropriate 40-pin cable)?
2) I heard that the last number of panel version often specifies different brackets, but connection pins should be compatible. So, is B156ZAN02.0 interchangeable with B156ZAN02.3?

Thanks in advance for any help.

P.S. I live in Russia and UHD version is unavailable here officially.

 

@Maleko48 did you tried the new BIOS(1.6)?

Sent from my Z2 Plus using Tapatalk

 

N156HHE-GA1 is a great screen. I have used it for about two months and it runs properly. The color accuracy is great and i can use the windows 10 brightness control normally.

 

I'm considering upgrading my stock 1080p 7577 screen to this 120MHz screen, but wonder what difference I'll see? I don't game on my 7577 and just use it as a desktop replacement for browsing, email, spreadsheets, etc.

Is the main reason to upgrade to this panel for gaming? What benefit would I gain from this in my typical non-gaming usage? I'm not sure that it's worth spending money on for my purposes, but it seems simple enough to replace and not very expensive so I'd consider the upgrade if I could gain anything useful from it.

Any thoughts?