Dell Inspirion 7577

Then it is too much and the laptop crashes while shutdown or booting and XTU resets.

 

Use throttle stop, much easier to use and will save your settings. Sometimes XTU just loses its mind even if your stable...

 

New user and new 7577 owner, decided to register and report after reading all 91 pages

My 7577 arrived direct from Dell today after ordering through Best Buy last week. It's the i7/16GB/1060 config. Came with 256GB SSD and 1TB spinny bits, which I swapped out for a spare SanDisk 1TB SSD I had on the shelf. I think I broke one of the plastic tabs along the rear edge of the baseplate during the first removal (didn't pop up as easily as I expected).

Anyway, just wanting to report a Samsung PM961 SSD, Samsung M471A2K43CB1-CRC RAM, and the LGD053F panel in this particular config. Immediately configured BIOS for AHCI and reinstalled Windows 10 on the Samsung, then added and initialized the SanDisk afterwards. Installed most hardware drivers from Dell.com support section, along with the current Nvidia.com drivers for the 1060. No issues at all.

I plan to run this mostly as a plugged-in gaming station (married with kids and no room, so a laptop that can be packed away is my only option). Is the Dell Power Manager app a necessary addition? That's the only question mark remaining on my to-do list.

 

Yeah me too. So pretty much everytime I start the laptop, I quickly undervolt by -0.105V, hit apply then change it back to -0.100V. It takes about 20-30s to do so, depending on your system.

If the XTU does annoy you, I suggest you use ThrottleStop. It has a lot of features and seems like a better for choice. Also if you decide to stick with XTU, here is the topic:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-under-volt-in-xtu-without-opening-it.802143/

Glad that you have received your new Dell!

I have downloaded the Dell Power Manager when trying to find a way to stop the fan from being too noisy. I saw a youtube video and noticed that there was a Thermal Management function (where you can set "Quiet") in the app. But when I opened the app there was no function like that at all.

There were just 2 functions, instead of 5 functions in the video. I did some research and knew that the app did not support the Thermal Management and other functions. I did not bother the first 2 functions much so I just left it there.

If by some chance you want to lower down the fan noise, there's this app that can help you do so.
https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

 

Hello, glad to see you aren't seeing any stuttering with nVidia.com drivers like my bloody machine seems to like to do.
All of the settings in the power app can also be found in the bios under the power options, I suppose it's less of a hassle to switch things in Windows but it's not that big of a difficulty so I'd recommend just uninstalling it if you are comfortable with setting things in the bios.


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I just jumped on the Costco sale that has the i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM, 128SSD+1TB HDD, GTX 1060 for $899.99. Hoping to have it in a few days. Until then, I'll be reading the entire thread.

https://www.costco.com/Dell-Inspiro...VIDIA-Graphics---1080p.product.100379974.html

 

Got Windows 7 on my machine btw. Nothing finalized yet so it's mostly just proof of concept rn. Still got a few different installation configs I want to try before I commit. School and life are in full swing rn so progress is slowwwwww. lol

 

Well my unit had a sudden power off again and even an electrical discharge isn't helping this time.
Guess whatever was wrong with the mobo didn't magically fix itself as the bloody "technician" expected. Guess they will really have to replace it this time and for **** sake this is annoying.

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Hmm, not saying you don't have a hardware issue but I just learned today that there is a random reboot glitch affecting early meltdown patches issued by Intel... but I think it was mostly affecting Broadwell/Haswell platforms. Either way, keep us posted.

 

Can you give me some sort of a link to where you found this stuff?
It might be worth checking out as the repair shop doesn't work this week and I have to wait till Monday to bring the computer to them.
I do doubt this tho as this has been happening to me since late December and I don't think I had the meltdown patch on at that time.

Edit: I did a bit of googling and the most I could find was that Specter/Meltdown patches affect reboots on Kaby Lakes. Now if only it would be able to (re)boot...

 

can i change m.2 from dell to the AHCI at the BIOS and doing factory reset without clean format the ssd ?

 

Does anyone know where the ambient and temp3 sensors are located? Ambient seems to be the one the fans are tied to and if I can find where that sensor is and help with cooling over it, maybe I can get these fans to behave and not spool up to max speed when my cpu and gpu are running in the 60s.

 

So just got this laptop in yesterday and am very happy with it so far. One thing I noticed though, which seems to be a somewhat common occurrence based on recent searches, is the left click on the touchpad sticking when any weight is resting on the left 'palmrest'. Has anyone figured out any possible DIY resolutions to this? I'd rather keep contacting Dell as a last resort as I have a feeling it would be an automatic return, wait forever, get laptop back scenario that I'd prefer to avoid. As well, the situation isn't TOO bad as most of the time I'll likely be using an external mouse.

 

Anybody know if there is a way to increase the key travel with a cover? I notice i'm pressing some keys too hard, and would love to make it feel a bit more like a normal keyboard. Standard keyboard covers/protectors are only 0.1 mm thick or so, so that does not help . Anything exists that is a few mm thick for this purpose?

 

I received my 7577 back after sending it off to Dell for keyboard issues. They did replace the keyboard which completely fixed the big issue that I was having that a single key would sometimes not register.

The replacement keyboard overall feels much more solid and I no longer have issues with any keys registering. I was a little hesitant to send it back since I thought it might be that the 7577 didn't have a great keyboard and replacing it wouldn't help. It did take about 10 days total from when I contacted them until when I got it back but it was worth it.

 

my 7577 is reaching over 90°C on CPU and 82°C GPU while playing Overwatch. It does not seem like there is any throttling, but something does not seem right since some of you guys have temps that dont go above 70°. Is there anything I can do? There is no dust on the fans.

Thanks for your help

 

Jesus I thought mine was running hot cause it ran 70-80 in more demanding games.

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The I7-7700K Version is more hot in general. 90 degrees is fine.

 

Yay, clean UEFI (GPT) triple boot install. Windows 7, Windows 10, and Ubuntu are all up and running, living happily on a single NVMe SSD. It's been a long day of tinkering.

 

7700k?

Sent from my Z2 Plus using Tapatalk

 

Did you have any troubles considering Kaby Lake and windows 7? Any info would be valuable cause I'm thinking of running Windows 8.1

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I used @Atak_Snajpera 's Windows 7 Image Updater tool to press an updated copy of my stock Win7x64.iso with updates and drivers baked into it. I then used Rufus to make my USB drive bootable via UEFI for an easy GPT installation to my completely wiped drive. Once I figured out a BIOS setting quirk that makes no sense to me that was causing Windows 7 to NOT boot the day went much better. I just got all 3 of the installs up and running how I want them late last night so today I will see about getting all the drivers in place to make sure everything works correctly. So far it is all good though. I'll report back later.

 

So in the end whats the recommended lcd replacement and a recommended place to get it. Im more interested in high color gamut, matte display

 

will be 7577 work on windows 8.1 64bitt ?

 

Yes, Win8 should work fine, but the tool I mentioned is only for Windows 7 afaik. Just get a Win8 image in .iso format and use Rufus to create a GPT(UEFI)/FAT32 boot drive then install like usual if you only want Win8.

 

I took this from a comment on reddit... I think the 7577 should work with all of these too.
https://www.reddit.com/r/SuggestALaptop/comments/5wz2jl/dell_7567_gaming_laptop_screen_replacement/

• AUO B156HAN01.2
• LG LP156WF6-SPB1
• LG LP156WF6-SPB5
• LG LP156WF6-SPB6
• Samsung LTN156HL01-102 (not the -101 variant)
• Samsung LTN156HL01-104
• Samsung LTN156HL02-201

Personally i ordered a Samsung LTN156HL02-201 from ebay and now i'm waiting for it to come. I hope it works!

 

Has anyone installed the new BIOS Dell put up a few days ago ?

I am still on the pre intel crisis bios and wondering if anyone had bit the bullet yet.

 

Ive read this thread and maybe I missed it, so here it goes.

Got my 7577 yesterday from Wallyworld for $999 with 4k/i7/128 ssd/1tb spinny.
I have a question, but be patient please. I stepped away from PC gaming for many years and so the new form factors are new to me and I am reading up on it and learning.
That is why I am here.
I bought for casual gaming and video editing.

So I updated memory to 24gb obviously a 4 year old could do that, but I thought i would get my system with one 16gb module (itemized list said 1) and jump to 32gb but nope, it was two 8s...
Updated windows and bios and all drivers.

Here is where my age shows and its new to me (but i'm trying and learning).
It has sata 128gb NVMe installed in laptop and I bought a Samsung 960 EVO Series - 500GB NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD to upgrade. ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M20VBU7/)

The goal was to use Samsung magician to clone current drive to a temporary Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III SSD via USB to SATA cable, then reboot off of that, swap out the new M.2 NVMe drive and clone from external to internal.

Issues I ran into.
Samsung Magician says none of my drives are compatible which makes no sense to me...(I assume this is because of next issue)
Dell ships in raid mode, and I believe I have to get into AHCI mode?
Can I even replace my sata NVMe drive with an M.2 NVMe drive?

If someone has a tutorial link or walkthru or can it explain it, I would appreciate it.
I've read countless threads such as this one: https://www.dell.com/community/General/inspiron-15-gaming-7567-M2-ssd-question/td-p/5104877/page/10
Most deal with clean installs and I'm trying to avoid buying a copy of win 10 if can

Thanks!

 

Sir you can install a new copy on your new samsung drive. I find no sense in cloning(too much bloatware by default). If you are worried about windows licence, i read somewhere here in this thread only that it is automatically restored in new windows installing. Also there are numerous tools available to backup your key.

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Well finally got mine, Have to say im really disappointed in dells packaging. They literally put the laptop inside the box with no protection what so ever. Thankfully it does not seem to have any physical damage. This was a scratch and dent unit, but i could not find a single thing wrong with it. It does say refurbished on the bottom plate so they might have send one of those the.

I do have one problem that is driving me crazy, the left speaker is crackling heavily when the volume goes past 70%. Now The screen while is not great is not really that terrible, is usable and mate wich is a plus. Im going to be upgrading in the month since i want to do some photo editing on it.

I did not get the samsung drive, mine is 256gb Toshiba X5g NvMe (not bad according to reviews i found).

Will dell warranty fix the issue with the speaker if im out side the continental USA at the time?

Screen is MONITOR\LGD053F any one have calibrated profiles for it. Back light bleed is present quite a lot as is some clouding. Colors seem ok at present settings

Specs
16gb single dim
256gb nvme
1080p
i7
1tb 5400

 

If you go a few pages back in the thread you will see that backlight bleeding is pretty much present with every unit as there is a design flaw with how the screen is held be the bezels.

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I use macrium reflect, they do a trial or a free edition, either will get you sorted, make an image then restore it and after expand the main partition.

 

This applies only to FHD model, UHD model have different screen assembly and different mounting points(screw holes are on LCD panel sides) than FHD model. UHD users have limited options, unless you change whole screen assembly.

 

I am currently on the pre-meltdown BIOS 1.3.2. I noticed Dell released the 1.4.2 BIOS which has quite a bit of stuff listed in its description, but I was hoping to do some before/after benchmarking. I'm more concerned with it messing up my multiboot system tho lol. Another curious thing is there is an "Older Versions" link in the BIOS 1.4.2 update listing but it only gives you the option to download BIOS 1.2.0. Either way I have all 3 BIOS updates archived. But it could prove problematic if you wanted to roll back to the previous version instead of 2 versions ago.

Just use Gparted (boot disk) or Partition Wizard (Windows program) to copy disks and play musical drives. No need to worry about keeping the stock image really since you can always get it from the downloads section for your unit from Dell's website. As far as registration, you should be fine as long as you are reinstalling Windows 10 that came with your laptop. It will auto-register based on your hardware signature. Definitely set your drives in AHCI mode. If you want to focus on one drive only and dont feel like needing to physically disconnect the other drive in your laptop you can disable the drives in BIOS so the bootloader ends up where it is supposed to. The fact that it is NVMe is really only an issue if you are attempting to install Windows 7. Regardless, I would recommend setting up your clean install on a UEFI/GPT system rather than booting with the BIOS/MBR option full time.

I agree. Clean vanilla installs go off without a hitch now, so there is nothing to worry about. Dell has released quite a few updates to fix the 7577's quirks that were present early on.

Barring actual faulty hardware with legitimate manufacturing defects, I have discovered that the audio crackles more frequently and worse on my 7577 in Windows 10 when the power setting is adjusted towards the battery saving end and I am not plugged in. There is a noticeable difference when in performance mode vs battery saving modes. Also, I always crank my audio sampling quality to the max that Windows 10 offers because it adds more richness and depth, but the 24bit @ 192kHz sampling rate crackles considerably more than the next step down which is 24bit @ 96kHz. The stock setting Windows 10 clean install boots with is one more step down at 24bit @ 48kHz. All said, this warrants investigation from Windows 7. I have a feeling it is a Windows 10 scheduler issue. It may be able to be improved considerably using Process Lasso from Bitsum.

[SEE HERE:] https://www.tenforums.com/drivers-hardware/12589-windows-10-popping-sound-speakers.html

Some suggest setting minimum processor frequency to 100% as a workaround, modifying audio drivers/applications to run in compatibility mode for Win7/Win8, disabling advanced/power-saving features for hardware/software involved to help correct the issue, and also reducing sampling quality like I mentioned above.

[SEE HERE:] https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...ndows-10/e12f0e37-e84f-4773-8bc4-cbe4ed65cc8c

According to the above it appears to be an Enhanced Intel Speedstem Technology (EIST) issue that occurs primarily when switching CPU speeds rapidly up and down frequently which has been present since Windows 8 and beyond, but is not present in Windows 7.

I agree for the mostpart, but where I have the worst bleed on my screen I have tried pulling the bezel away to relieve the stress and the bleed unfortunately did NOT go away. I have heard stories of people painting/sealing/taping the edges of LCD screens very particularly to improve the bleed qualities of a given LCD screen.

 

@Maleko48

I had downloaded the original Meltdown BIOS myself as you mentioned, then days later i noticed it was pulled but never had installed in fear of it causing more issues then help.

This new one sounds like it addressed those issues but i am curious performance/temps wise what i does.

I will be waiting to see your results before i drink the Kool-Aid.

 

This is basically the case and how I did mine. Imaged my drive just in case but then wiped clean and did a barebones install of Win10 and it picked up the Dell license no problem. Windows 10 actually makes activation painless these days.

As far as Samsung Magician goes, it is because it is an OEM drive. Doesn't matter if it is in AHCI or RAID mode, it refuses to see the drive either way.

 

Looks like my Win7 install is 99% up and running with no major issues. Although the Goodix Fingerprint driver package did install, Windows Device Manager is still complaining with a yellow bang (!) . I tried disabling signed driver checking at the Windows 7 OS level in addition to manually loading it and none of them took, so I just disabled it. Least of my worries really. I did have to manually install Intel IMEI to get rid of the unidentified device in DevMan.

I managed to find a Win7-8-10 compatible Dell Touchpad Driver that came from the Inspiron 14 7447 and was recently updated January 2018. I have nearly identical Windows 10 touchpad behavior in Win7 aside from actually needing to *click* the trackpad with two fingers to equal a right-click. (On Win10 I can just tap with two fingers without actually needing to *click* the trackpad). It doesn't offer quite the same customization as Win10 but it does offer a few options Win10 does not.

 

Hey check this out. Notebookcheck website already reviewed inspiron 7577 highest model, which is: i7 7577, GTX1060 max-q, 128 SSD, 1 TB HDD, UHD 4k screen.
https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-...1060-Max-Q-4K-UHD-Laptop-Review.282650.0.html

The battery depleted 1.5 hours faster for WLAN usage only, from just 7 hours for FHD to 5.5 hours for UHD. For the rest of the differences, you can check it out for yourselves.

 

Mine 7577 UHD came with 512gb pcie ssd (Toshiba XG5) and now 7577 UHD are shipping with SK hynix PC401 512gb pcie ssd. I don't know which one are better.

 

My UHD is well worth the trade off when it comes to coding and being able to push higher pixel densities above 1080p. Some of the scaling quirks are annoying but most can be dealt with. Still beats my old laptop's best case of 2-3 hrs battery life when it was brand new.

 

Yeah you are right. anyway we can extend the battery life by disconnect the internet if we just reading or working with ms office, right? 1.5 hours short is not a big deal.

 

Hi guys, i'm new hear. At first sorry for my bad english I want to ask you about playing with AC adapter. I mean, when you are playing some games, you have 100% battery and plugged AC adapter, right? But how do you care about battery life? I've noticed in Dell Power Manager option "mainly with AC adapter" but i'm not sure that is working.. What do you think about it?

 

I just did my screen panel swap for Samsung LTN156HL02-201. I got it on ebay for $40. The seller had a pic of the sticker on the back of the panel so i knew it was a legit panel.

I followed this guide. I only used my fingers to take apart the panel and a small screwdriver for the screws.


Sorry, i didn't take a before pic, but looking at the screen in person is SO good!! My biggest con about this laptop was the screen quality. I highly recommend anyone swapping their panel if they're unhappy with their screen quality!!

Taken with Samsung Note 8:


The last thing i want to do is swap the keyboard for one that isn't red. I'm hoping the keyboard from the Dell 5567 or 5567 works on this one.

 

So with the screen is it possible to change the brightness or is that still an issue? Also I hear the EU/UK version has the white LED backlight keyboard, so you could probably get the part number from someone in the UK.

 

On another note...

Has anyone tried to overclock their 2400mhz ram to 2666mhz? I have heard that this is possible.

Is there much of an advantage in doing this?

 

from what i've been reading, the brightness change issue is only if you change to a 120hz panel. Changing the screen brightness on mine works perfectly!

For keyboard swap, someone swapped theirs with a 7567 keyboard and it works fine!
see here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/77y25o/dell_7577_keyboard_and_trackpad_swap/

my only hesitation is that getting to the keyboard takes lots of steps...

 

Ahh that is good to know! I thought I would be trading off the brightness settings, Is it possible for you to give the model number of the samsung screen? If you think it is a vast improvement I will look at changing the screen myself.

The red light keyboard doesn't bother me too much, only thing that bothers me is there is no setting for it to auto dim or turn off when not in use... My VAIO's in the past always had the auto dim/turn off timer option.

 

Excuse me. After you changed your screen, do your screen has more brightness than your old screen (stock screen)? i am curious about which part of the laptop that control the amount of brightness on screen. Is it the screen itself, or bios setup, or pc driver or whatever?
I mean, do you have easier time to use your laptop for outdoor use now or the brightness level is now the same as old screen?

 

i haven't used it outdoors. the screen brightness seems the same or maybe a little better. The vibrancy of the colors definitely make it feel brighter.

This is the screen i got from ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-LTN156HL02-201-15-6-Matte-LCD-Screen-/263443051466

 

Just curious if anyone else is familiar with Hackintosh notebooks. I am currently working on my Hackintosh install but I'm starting from square 1 basically so I've got about 5+ years worth of reading and documentation to catch up on. It will likely be a while until I get it all figured out.