Dell Inspirion 7577

Hey guys, just curious if all the regulars wanted to sound off with their LCD screen manufacturers and model numbers that you are currently running. It gets confusing quick and I am a bit confused right now. I am gathering all the color calibration profiles that have been posted throughout this thread recently and need accurate screen models to make sure I get the associations correct with the handful of color calibration files that are floating around as well.

I currently have:

@makenov - FHD - 156WF6-4XK13
@custom90gt - FHD - LTN156HL01 (Samsung - upgrade)
@polihedron - FHD - LP156WF6-SPB1 (which of these screens are you currently running?)
@polihedron - FHD - LP156WF6-SPM3
@Wertzius - UHD - F2TW2-B156ZAN

Other people are welcome to contribute as well.

 

Yeah that's my model: LTN156HL01-102 since it's matte. Do you have a color profile for the LTN156HL01? I tried searching but never found one.

 

No, I am just updating my thread and trying to consolidate a lot of strewn about information. I also have a bunch of saved tabs on my cell phone's Chrome which has been keeping its tab count near 100 tabs so I am finally unloading some of them into my thread if the wife doesn't kill me first. I created a new email and MEGA cloud storage to host all the relevant files from a single source also.

 

My thread got a nice update today:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-details-pics-of-internals-optimizing.811380/

For now I just linked to a folder containing all of the color calibration files I found. Let me know if you have any trouble accessing the files.

 

I am sorry i didn't specified my question. I know laptopmedia said that Inspiron 7577's stock screen have no PWM. But laptopmedia didn't review the UHD screen yet. They only review the FHD version of inspiron 7577.
What I meant when i ask custom90gt was "Did the new screen which custom90gt bought and installed (FHD - LTN156HL01 Samsung) is using PWM on it?"
Because i want to consider many thing when buying a new screen replacement.

 

Thank you, custom90gt. I was thinking about if you take the PWM as consideration when you want to buy the screen replacement, what would you do.
I guess there is no way we would know if the new screen we want to buy will use PWM or not, whether we search from ebay, panelook, amazon etc.
This in depth information kind of thing (PWM) of screen can only be known by:
1. Reading review of that screen replacement we want to buy (if we lucky enough for someone to review the exact screen replacement as we want to buy); or
2. We check and survey ourselves when we want to buy it (that would mean we should go to retailer to check because how would you expect online seller to check for you).

 

wow, thanks for the information about the temperature,

would you mind to test temperature FULL load on PUBGv1.0 please?

thanks in advance..

 

aye,
SPB1, I'm not going to switch back to SPM3, even after any icc profile install, SPB1 is just beautiful.

btw. I think that "4XK13" is part number, and LG don't have such display: 156WF6-4XK13
stock screen label:

are you sure about display model last 3 digits? I thought you bought LTN156HL01-101..
profile from notebookcheck:
https://www.notebookcheck.net/uploads/tx_nbc2/MSI_PE60_FHD_matt__SAMSUNG_156HL01_102_.icm
version 102 is quite popular, MSI PE60, Asus N551JK, and probably many clevo based laptops have one.

Can you check also contrast, gamma calibration, and white saturation?
Just to compare, probably in a free time I will switch back to stock display and check that also..
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php

 

It is very difficult to test gamma withbtestcharts after a calibration. It depends if your browser is colormanaged or not, which browser you choose, if the picture has a colour profile embedded, and so on. Safest way is to download Irfanview and to open the pictures with it.

There are huge differences in testcharts between different picture viewing programs. Also never zoom the pictures, you have to use alway 100% scale.

 

Yeah you're right it is the 101. What's funny is the forums say that 101 is glossy and 102 is matte. This is a matte screen for sure and aida64 confirms its a 101.

It looks like the only difference between the 101 and 102 is the 101 has an anti-glare coating however it is not glossy like the forums mention.

*on edit* I loaded up that profile even though it says for 102 and it looks great. Looking at the web pages you provided it's pretty much spot on! How on earth did you find that btw? lol.

 

So between the Samsung PM961 NVMe this time around and doing a proper clean install of Windows 10 using @Phoenix's guide (it is a bit outdated but still worth following along and using, provided you know how to find the equivalent screens since they have changed a bit in appearance and location) and employing O&O ShutUp10, my Windows 10 experience is already far better immediately. With all the bullshi*t disabled my laptop is far more responsive and reboots pretty damn quick now.

Now I have to find the post where Phoenix talked about replacing Cortana with a much more responsive system search tool.

Also, after making my BIOS screenshot PDF the other day, I began looking into the Computrace LoJack system and find it to be rather disturbing.

 

I'm doing some GPU overclocking to see what the sweetspot is for my 7577. I'll post my results here.

 

I still have a long ways to go. My machine hasn't been connected to the internet yet so far. I'm about to start installing drivers and updates (offline) then I need to manually update Windows 10 to a certain point and try my best to lock it there (pre-FCU). Make backups along the way. Disable as many Windows 10 services as possible. setup all my partitions how I like them. Install all my favorite apps, tools, and games. Then let it connect to the internet and cross my fingers, lol.

Then after that I gotta hope installing Windows 7 doesn't nuke my Windows 10 install completely. Thankfully having two SSDs onboard makes for quick backups and restores.

And then finally I want at least one Linux distro as my third boot option. There may be some virtual machines thrown into the mix as well. I was playing with running High Sierra in a VM right before I got sidetracked with this new computer stuff.

 

Some Benchmarks...(UHD Display, changed Toshiba SSD to Samsung, RAM Kingston HyperX CL14)

Samsung SSD 960Pro 512GB



FireStrike (CPU -0.1VCore; GPU +210/ MEM +420) 9435

TimeSpy (CPU -0.1VCore; GPU +210/ MEM +420) 3637

 

What module size gets CAS 14? My stock 1x16GB Samsung RAM module has CAS 18 (18-19-19-34 or something iirc).

 

Hello yall, after some long discussion and long story short, I took in my 7577 to a computer shop and they said that the HHD doesnt fit in and that only SSD works. They said they could put in a 1tb SSD for $300. My father paid for this immediately. Naturally, Im very suspicious because when I ordered it, the 256 gb model comes directly with a free storage bay. SO I went and looked online to double check. It says it can use SATA HHD or SSD. So Im really conflicted and suspect that the computer shop is trying to rip me off. Any help? I have a gut feeling that the computer store is trying to make money since I call ******** since the HHD i provided is SATA(From the 7567 I had previously) and their excuse was that it wouldnt fit when I looked up the manual, it says SATA bay.
Please help clarify this one up! Would a 2.5" SATA HHD fit? And if there is, please give me a link

 

Changed the stock single Kinston 16Gb Module to a dual channel Kit!

https://www.kingston.com/en/memory/search/?partid=HX424S14IB2K2/16

Yes, 2,5" HDD/SSD works without problems, but only Hdd´s with 7mm high will fit into the 7577!
Here is a list of 1-2TB Hdd´s (sorry, German)...
https://geizhals.at/?cat=hde7s&xf=1080_SATA+1.5Gb/s~1080_SATA+3Gb/s~1080_SATA+6Gb/s~1293_7~3772_2.5~958_1000

 

I see. I just dont see the point in paying $300 for a SSD when a HHD for $50 myself is better. I dont care for how fast the secondary storage is compared to the OS drive. SO the computer shop was BS me over this?

 

You're gettin jacked man. Any standard 2.5" HDD or SSD will fit. Max thickness is 0.37 inches or 9.398mm. Look on Newegg, their filter system is good. You can order it from wherever though.

EDIT:
So the 0.37" spec came straight from a Dell tech support chat agent whom I asked this exact question. However, after measuring the thickness of the stock 1TB HDD that my laptop came with, its thickness is in fact 7mm. So I would stick with 7mm or less to be safe. Once again, Dell techs don't know their head from their ass. Thank you @la.ultima for making me double check this spec so I don't spew incorrect information to unsuspecting users.

 

Not my problem anymore. Im getting a $300 ssd since my father doesnt believe me.

 

Max. high should be 7mm or 0,27inch! The service cover cannot close correctly with a 9mm HDD (tried a WD Black WD7500BPKX)!

 

See my edit on post 669 which you just quoted. I agree 7mm is max and the Dell service rep gave me incorrect information.

 

Well so far playing around with overclocking this 1060 max q:
Sadly anything above 180mhz on the core results in lower scores, and 225mhz actually has artifacts.
Memory wise it seems to be doing good, currently I'm at 500mhz and will see if it gives me more...

 

Are you using the ASUS Realbench software to do all of your benching?

 

I'm using a mixture of Unigine Valley and 3D Mark Timespy to test the GPU overclock.

 

For anyone who hasn't checked for driver updates recently I just put together a complete pack straight from the Dell.com 7577 Driver Downloads page:

https://mega.nz/#F!NSxSVZiI!q4aDMJPxQf3HHUWposlURQ

The newest BIOS (1.3.2) update arrived on Dec 21, 2017. I just updated from 1.2.0 to 1.3.2 myself.

EDIT:

Also, Dell Power Manager now installs correctly straight from the Windows Store on a clean Win10 install. I just installed the service first as per standard procedure before jumping onto the Windows Store to pick up the other half of the DPM client.

 

Is there a way to control the fans? I am searching for a silent mode. I know i can use the slider in the power management to throttle the machine and it will be quieter, but a button would be more convenient.

 

Check out @Maleko48 post: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/dell-inspirion-7577.808514/page-32#post-10629680

I think it will let you do thermal management, but I don't know right off the top of my head.

 

So playing with MSI Afterburner to overclock the GPU and stress testing all day yesterday I finally arrived at:
+190mhz on the gpu core and +500mhz on the memory. Going higher on either resulted in lower scores and more dropped frames on timespy stress test.

My Timespy graphics score went from a stock 3255 to 3594 (+10.4%). Not too bad for just messing around. Also not too bad when considering the 1060 in my GS63VR got 3744 stock (yes I know there was a lot of room left to OC it).

 

Dell Power Manager doesn't let you control the fans, it is only for battery management and charging strategies. On older Dell PCs was "Dell Command" for Fan Controling.

 

Ah you're right, I forgot the name. We may be out of luck in terms of fan management.

*on edit* did you try this: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ol-fans-on-dell-laptops-under-windows.805317/

 

any information please, is there a program that dell include to reset the laptop to factory default setting without doing windows installations ?

thanks in advance...

 

Windows 10 can do that without any programs. There is a factory reset in the reset options.

 

Put in your service tag on Dell.com Driver & Support page and download system recovery image.

 

thanks for the information.

i saw many problem when doing clean windows installation on previous several page on this thread..
like dell power management and stuttering on game and windows....

are these will be good options ?

 

Dell has put out quite a few driver updates and even a handful of BIOS patches to date. The Dell Power Manager can now be installed normally without any issues. No more need for the screwy workaround. I just downloaded all the drivers and updates from Dell.com yesterday and put a link to them from my other thread if you are about to do a clean install.

 

So I currently have a very weird issue. This happened to me for the second time now. The computer just turned off without a BSOD or anything like that and now it won't turn back on.

I've read that an electrostatic discharge might help with that but I've found myself having troubles getting the battery out (I'm a bit afraid pulling that cable put as it seems to be stuck there quite hard) but just "trying" to do it fixed it last time.

Now the issue still persists tho and my laptop is not turning on right now, do any of you have any suggestions?
I'm thinking of trying to actually get the battery out to complete the electro static discharge and of that doesn't help or if the issue happened again going to the retailer and requesting they replace my laptop.

From my understanding this could be a faulty motherboard. I find it interesting tho as the first time it just happened while I was using the laptop plugged in, the second time now happened after I unplugged the laptop and started carrying the laptop (it was ok at first then after 5~ seconds it shut down).
Last time it happened I checked the windows event log and I couldn't even find any errors =_=

For the love of me tho I just want a bloody good laptop that will work and the past 2 months have been frustrating regarding that.

Edit: I should probably mention that I wasn't doing any "stressful" activities on the laptop. First time I was playing an old game that didn't use up more than 50% CPU and the second time I had vlc open with a movie loaded in so it definitely can't be a temperature safety measure.

Update: I have successfully electrically discharged the laptop and it turned on but the issue is replicatable! By unplugging the laptop and leaning it so the right side is at a 30% angle I was able to replicate the issue. After that the laptop suddenly shut down.
I would ask if anyone could test that on their own laptop to see if this is a manufacturing error or if it's a faulty unit.
I am currently also updating the bios to the newest revision and will test it after the update is finished.

 

Reproducing a fault by physically moving a laptop is not fixable by bios/firmware or software updates. It could catch fire as it's obviously shorting and needs service calling.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

Alright, I don't know why it would be short circuiting then.
Would you all recommend me to request a new unit or just go with the Europe costumer protection law and request a new unit from the retailer. Considering that the stories I'm reading from you lot about dell costumer I'm thinking g of going straight to the retailer. Problem is I needed to be able to prove the error. I've recorded a video of the laptop clearly being plugged in and not booting but I don't know what else I could do

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

Up to you what path you follow, start with the retailer.

 

Oh boy, this is going to be a great start to 2018. Any ideas as to how I could confirm if this is a short circuit?

 

You don't have to prove anything. Simply send it for repair.

 

Thing is I want to be sure that it's a short circuiting and not just lose my main computer for a week or two to have them tell me that's not it.
After the updates I haven't been able to replicate the error again but as you guys have pointed out already I'm doubtful anything here has to do with software.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

Mine also didn't szart one or two times. I had to unpkug it and to press the power button really long. Nothing to be concerned about.

 

*deleted*

 

Hi guys, proud owner of this sleek Dell 7577, received from late November, currently equipped with i7-7700HQ, 1050Ti (wanted the 1060 Max-Q so bad but my $ dry out) and 8GB RAM (dual channel 2x4GB Micron 2400MHz), FHD screen (4XK13_156WF6), 128GB + 1TB drives.
This machine can cool down even in the most extreme task (test mine crypto coin with both CPU and GPU as miner, despite this never throttling and GPU temp keeping at 60 Celcius or below), also the OC headroom for 1050Ti is insane, managed to stable at core +220 and mem +293 (passed Timespy benchmark and Kombuster stresstest) and CPU -120mV and iccMax at 68A (default value is 70A, despite intel docs suggested that maximum for our quad core i7 is 68A, so i tried to decrease and it worked anyway, slight temp decrease) (intel XTU)
Crack up the back cover, well clean. Found some place I can "enhance" the cooling and applied it (leftover stuffs from my old modding project, well I know I should use proper copper shim with fins/heatsink but only copper shims available to me at that time)

Below is the IFR file I extracted from latest 1.3.2 bios (currently looking for a way to turn the 7700HQ to 7920HQ via turbo boost ratio modification via EFI shell, edit the temp/fan curve map also squeeze every bit out of the memory, its possible folks !!!)(maybe GPU volt control inside too?)
Dell 7577 IFR

 

How quickly were you able to solve the issue tho? Cause my stuff didn't fix "itself" really, I had to open it up and do a thermal discharge the second time.


@spektykles mind if I ask why you went off to mine on a laptop? Did you just want to benchmark it that way or what? I mean mining is not good for the longevity of your CPU or your GPU to my knowledge and unless you have an efficient set up it's not really worth it.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

Nah, im just testing it out for profitability calculation and machine thermal headroom. And 1050Ti mobile is better than 1050Ti on PC, except double and half precision.
Btw, after messing with EFI shell, well one step closer to free 7920HQ upgrade (still cant figure out how to edit the turbo ratios, Dell loves to lock up stuff...). Memory is a bit better tho, got access to delicated timing and freq selection, great for overclockers.