Dell Inspirion 7577

Hello Spoonablehippo, I read this article as well and was a bit skeptical about this profile stuff. But if you say it is working, I might try it as well. Unfortunately I am a newbie in computer science How does it work? Do they send a program to be executed? Or just indication to manually change the display settings? Would it be possible to post pictures of your display before /after the change to see the difference? I am particularly interested in the greens and red which are so bad on this screen.

 

I could understand someone having a problem with a big repair like a mainboard, but a speaker's a 5 minute job, if the rest of the laptop is good get it repaired.

 

It's most likely a windows color calibration profile. Intel also has its own calibration settings as well.

 

I understand what your saying, and I know a lot of people wouldn't be phased by having it repaired, but I am!
Any other company I've dealt with, if a new product is faulty in any way, and its under 28 days old, then its just exchanged for a new one or your offered a refund (here in the UK anyway).

If I spend £1250 on a new laptop, I expect it to work flawlessly out of the box. Which I don't think is unreasonable considering the cost of it.

I don't want to send it back, and be without it for any amount of time and have it stripped down! And if you look at the service manual, and also advised by another member here, the speaker is NOT easy to get too!

At the end of the day, I feel I shouldn't have to have a brand new £1200+ item repaired :-(

 

I think you're mad as the chance in a new one having a more serious problem is above average with Dell, that's why I would let then replace a speaker. Trust me I have had so many replacements I know 1 in 10 are ok.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

As Maleko48 says, it's just a calibration (ICC) profile.
You do need to install a program to use it, but I don't really understand myself lol

 

Really?!
That's really bad :-(

My 7576 had a faulty display, but I got it from Currys (a UK electronics retailer) and not Dell themselves, so they just swapped it straight away, no fuss or hassle! They sent me a new one, then I returned the faulty one.

My main worry is will it still be as new once its been repaired? I have major OCD about stuff like this, all my equipment still looks pristine, even after years of use, so I don't want my laptop to come back with any scratches or any marks where they've had to pop the palm rest off etc :-(

 

If you want to spend a few days going through my history feel free but I also would rather have what I paid for, and at the price range of the XPS 15 I expected perfection and made sure I got it. Main issue was display quality and coil whine with the earlier models, iirc I had about 5 9530's before I got a good one, same again with the 9550's and a 3? 9560's over the past 3 years. Trust me when I say taking the back off to to remove a floating speaker is one of the jobs I would trust a Dell contractor to come and replace along with batteries. After that I would think twice with a new build.

BUT! if you can get a cross ship and are handy with a screwdriver you are often better off making yourself a good one, even if it just taking the speaker from the replacement and putting it in the old one then telling Dell you did it because the new ones in worst condition.

I am the same looking after kit, I sold a year old 9550 and the buyer couldn't tell it had any use at all, I will be doing the same again with this when it's a year old!

 

Now you have panicked me lol

If it were just a case of using a screw driver and taking it apart I would of done! I'm a service technician for construction lasers and optical instrument's so used to taking apart small delicate things, but the bit that has me worried is you have to insert one of those plastic tools between the keyboard/palm assembly to pop loads of tabs that hold the keyboard in place! I'm likely to break the tabs or mark the keyboard or chassis.

The speaker itself is not faulty, it's just not quite sat right I don't think as you can feel it's touching the chassis with the way it vibrates. I've taken the bottom cover off and removed the HDD, and there is a notch in the case and you can actually touch the speaker with a screwdriver. I did this with the laptop powered on and playing audio and by moving the speaker around slightly I could eliminate or reduce the distortion, but once I let go it always returns to the same place and the distortion starts again :-(

In case you missed it, here is a clip I did of the problem:

 

The way I see it is you got some low paid average Joe's who are trained just enough to put together high volumes of units at the factory as fast as they can. They don't care as much since the laptop doesn't necessarily have an owner yet at that point. They also have the benefit of not having to take it apart first but instead starting with individual building block pieces.

When you send it in for "repair" your unit should end up in the hands of a higher-skilled technician who knows the ins and outs of modern fine electronics repairs, from troubleshooting, diagnosing the problem, disassembly, repair and replacement, all in addition to (re)assembly.

In general I like to think repair technicians are better trained, higher paid, more passionate, and understand that if it made it to them at this stage in its life that the owner must obviously be picky (as the techs likely are with their own personal hardware) and will be paying close attention to the details and likely to nitpick their work once they get their laptop back. The techs also have a more personal connection to the laptop knowing it has an unhappy owner behind it who wants it back in proper working order with no additional blenishes or mistakes. For all these reasons and more the techs have a higher incentive to perform high quality work and they are likely educated and trained to be able to do it flawlessly.

At least that's my mentality. I used to be an appliance repair technician and I know first hand how much people care about their ****. From scratches on the floor or walls to the tiniest stupidest **** they consider a problem that is actually par for the course. I dealt with a wide range of scenarios and I understand the mindset from both sides.

 

Too much noise at home to hear that, I assumed they would be like the XPS and housed at the front so you can get to them, if not then fair enough if you want a new one, I would probably be in the same frame of mind if you have to start popping clips to gain access!

 

Funny stuff I needed a laugh.

Dell employs blind fingerless people to do the in house repairs, often the work is worse than the onsite as they are not being watched.

 

There's a reason people always requested me to fix their **** lol.

Also probably the difference between giant multinational corporation and small metro area business.

 

Having the right tools for the job makes all the difference... And patience!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06Y...ion+screwdriver+set&psc=1&smid=A2FOADTO08BQD0

 

It does but I only trust Wera screwdrivers, still not stripped the head off a laptop screw with the micro set https://primetools.co.uk/product/we...N9x1oQOTCdKi6Y-MvaEZe7nhw4oWH6dBoCdOEQAvD_BwE

 

Good to know of a quality brand in the precision niche. I know most people don't like spending too much money on tools, especially infrequently used tools. I suggested the one I linked to mostly for the plastic working tools that come with it. The Chinesium driver sets are a dime a dozen really. Having the right jimmying tools is very nice though.

Also, one of these (or a magnetic project mat) is great to have also:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KRPFX00?ref_=mw_olp_product_details

 

Thanks for the tool suggestions guys!
I do have a quality set, but not any of the plastic thingys!

If I could find a teardown video on youtube that I could follow, I'd probably give it a go.
But I cant find any, as I'm guessing it's to new at this point!

 

The only plastic thingy you need is an old gift card or credit card. The plastic tabs for the case are surprisingly durable on this 7577. I didn't manage to break one and I wasn't exactly taking my time...

 

Follow the service manual, no need for a video.

 

Hello Vikram, I just downloaded this file, and cannot use it, how can I use this file to at last improve the colors ? Would you have 5 minutes to explain me ? Sorry for asking stupid questions but the downloaded file is .icm and the Intel software only seems to know .igp files to use. Did you have the same issue ? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Hi there, please follow manual found somewhere else..

 

Thanks a lot Polihedron ! But in fact I cannot use this information as I dont know why I don't have access to these graphic settings in the Windows 10 settings. All the graphic parameters seem to be managed by this Intel Graphics software, and it doesn't want to know this lcc file... Damned ! I am trying to find a way out on Google, with no success so far, but thanks a lot for your help !

 

That's strange, beacuse I had no problems with that.
maybe try to "windows key + R" and run command: "control /name Microsoft.ColorManagement"
you should be able to set the color profile for printer or display anyway, without intel software.

 

Thanks a lot again, I found everything indeed. Just that everything is in French so took some time to find the light But in fact I cannot see any difference when I activate this profile. Maybe it takes time to get implemented... Who knows ? Or maybe this display cannot be improved and I have to go to Prag for a real replacement

 

Well, when I was switching between stock and new display for some photos to check the difference in colors, I also checked windows default sRBG profile, and some others from the web. Conclusion was a quite suprise, I was able to see difference between windows default sRGB profile and some others only for LP156WF6-SPB1.
I think if you have low gamut color display, then new calibrated profile does not extend it to wide gamut, it just makes a small correction in hue or tint.

 

you need to restart your laptop to see all the changes take effect. Also try these profile "thanks to @polihedron for sharing these profile"

If you want vibrant colors and good black level use this https://www.notebookcheck.net/uploads/tx_nbc2/AcerAS_VN7_572G_72L0_FHD_IPS_matt.icm

if you want natural colors and good black level try this https://www.notebookcheck.net/uploads/tx_nbc2/4XK13_156WF6_02.icm

to check black level and colors use the attached image.

 

ICC Profile from Acer VN7-572G is calibrated for the LP156WF6-SPB1 display, and now I'm interested with effects on the stock one.
Is it much more better?

 

Well, after an email conversation with Dell support and me asking for a new machine, I received this reply:

For system replacement it will take 10 to 14 business days before you get the new unit because we have to order and built the system exactly like your computer configuration. There is other option to request for onsite repair to replace the defective speakers. For onsite repair it will only take 1 to 2 business days once booked. Let me know if you want me to submit a onsite repair.

So i'd really value you opinion on what to do?
Do I either
A) point out to him that my system is listed as "Ready to ship" on the Dell site, which means they have them already prebuilt like mine was, so it won't be a 10 - 14 days wait (mine was delivered next day!).
B) Trust that a guy doing an onsite repair will be more careful than sending it away as I'll be sat there watching him like a hawk lol

So what should I do guy??

 

yes compare to stock black level are much better. In stock when you see the below image you can't tell the difference 1-10 are black not visible, 11-15 almost black, but in acer profile you can see every box 1-255

 

If it involves them unplugging anything off the mainboard or removing the mainboard I would wait for a new one, you may be stuck waiting for the new build due to the process though?

It isn't like you have a broken laptop so if you can wait it out then wait. If it was a stupidly simple repair like on the XPS I would go down the engineer route.

 

I’m thinking of getting the 7577with the aim to “hackintosh” it.
I believe it’s HDMI 2.0 port is connected to the Nvidia 1060 and won’t work under OSX as the 1060 has to be disabled.

In theory do you guys think a usb-c (thunderbolt) to HDMI adapter would work on this laptop using just the intel 630? I need to get 4K 60hz HDMI output from it.

 

Try starting from here:

https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/...7-and-similar-near-full-functionality.234988/

 

Thanks , yeah I’ve already read through that and would use it as a base ( I don’t have the laptop yet).

The model on that page doesn’t have thunderbolt though

 

Hello everyone,

I'm wondering if these speeds:



Are correct as per spec, and as intended with:

 

Holy ****, about damn time... my laptop finally arrived! And I even got the Samsung PM961 NVMe drive as a small little cherry on top. It will likely be a while until I get this thing setup proper but I am excited to see how it does with undervolting this time around once I get to that stage.

It would also appear I now have a 1x16GB Samsung DDR4 module this time around as well. Not sure if that is better or worse than the Micron brand in my last 7577.

 

It looks like normal speeds for the small SATA SSD.

 

So I finally got a few to post my results from repasting the laptop. First let me cut to the chase, it's not worth it. Dell really did a great job with the cooling on the 7577 and it really doesn't need anything. Having said that, here are my experiences.

Disassembling the laptop to get to the heatsink is a pain, but really not too bad. It took me 53 minutes from start to finish to do so. There are lots of ribbon cables and such that need to be disconnected and are really easy to break if you're not taking your time/paying attention.

Here is what the top of the board looks like:


The heatsink and stock paste:


I used Kryonaut and used the stock VRM/VRAM thermal pads since they appeared to be making great contact with the components (yay dell did VRM cooling!).

Here are some simple graphs that I made from temp logs. They are pretty self explanatory but if you have questions let me know.

 

Do you happen to know the thicknesses of the factory thermal pads? Were all the pads the same thickness? How tight were the clamping forces involved in the sinking plates?

Thank you for the great pics!

 

Sadly I didn't measure the thickness of the pads. If I had to guess from memory (last week) I would say the gray pads are ~1mm and the purple pads are ~2mm. Not sure what you mean about the clamping forces in the sinking plates.

 

Here are my results of the Timespy benchmark at factory state and with 0,1V CPU undervolt und GPU Overclock.

Normal by Wertzius posted Dec 28, 2017 at 6:19 AM

Undervolt by Wertzius posted Dec 28, 2017 at 6:19 AM

Here is my result of the calibration of the UHD Panel. Looks pretty good, but no comparison to the SHARP IGZO in the XPS 15.
I calibrated for 6500K and Gamma of 2.2 which is perfect for the SRGB Standard. I got 92.3% SRGB coverage and 100.2% SRGB color volume.
Adobe RGB 66.5% coverage.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s9gck6rhdh8nnts/AABDhtysKPOs_JCvAnKR9btra?dl=0

Read the Measurement Report for details.

 

I am sorry i hope i am not sidetracking too much from the conversation. But can you check the use of PWM on your screen? Is there PWM on FHD screen for custom90gt, and Is there PWM on UHD for Wertzius?

 

Thanks. Also, thanks for going through the trouble to do the repaste, and also the details about the screen. I think that I will buy a couple extra ones, as I am known to not be careful with mine

 

Let me know if you have any questions, I just threw that info up real quick because I had so much other stuff to do last night.

 

I believe the LTN156HL01 uses PWM but I have no issues with it even at low brightness levels.

 

@Maleko48 since you got your machine, i would love to see you setting up windows 7(if possible) in your rig and update your other thread with proper instructions.
I will get my laptop during march and would like to dual boot it with windows 7 and linux side by side.

Windows 10 is a real crap.

Sent from my Z2 Plus using Tapatalk

 

Hi, I just changed for this laptop from Y720, and my suggestion for people that considering both of Y720 and 7577, please do more research on Y720 cause mine is pretty much fkd up until I got refunded and bought 7577 instead. Performance in this laptop is pretty solid tho (I got the 7700HQ & 1060maxQ), laptop is chill (never touch 70 C on both CPU and GPU while gaming full load like FFXIV, Overwatch, Dota2) but the fan is pretty loud, performance is good, I'm getting 1600+ core clock on 1060 maxQ which is great compared to maxQ on Omen. Though..
1 problems is, It always stutters a bit when I'm using the laptop with its built in display. I think it's the optimus problems. Is there any workaround for this? Or can I just disable the iGPU for better and worse. It runs buttery smooth on external display.
Ah another thing is, I never touch 1600+ core clock while using it with built in display. Only with external display. That's pretty weird.

 

I am pretty sure that laptopmedia.com review specified there was no PWM issues with the FHD screen at all brightness levels. They have some graphs and stuff to show their reasoning as well.

I just swapped in my SSD drive and am in the process of setting up a clean install now. It may take me some experimentation and time to figure out everything. I have a bunch of links to add to my thread, just no time and a ****ty memory to go with it. If only I could put all the stuff that constantly pops in and out of my head into my thread when I think of it, I wouldn't have to stress so much over remembering it all, lol.

Having a terrible two year old at home really sucks the life out of you. I also have a ton of home projects to work on, like painting and hanging shelves, working on the car, doing a bit of welding, building up some bikes for the neighbor's kids, fixing our own bikes, spending time with the wife and kid, etc... It never ends!

I agree though, Windows 10 does suck. For ease of installation I am pretty sure I should install windows 7 first, but I may start with 10 first for bootloader reasons. Right now I am taking pictures of all the BIOS option screens in case people want to use them to help make guides.

 

Thanks a lot to you and Polihedron for your help ! The colors are almost pleasant to look at now, my life has changed.
Now I can Watch movies and have the feeling that the actors are not all chinese (the skins were all yellow before yesterday)
I am just wondering why this stupid Intel Graphics settings does not include some of these profiles, this would be easier for a stupid newbie like me... But thanks to you I can postpone my trip to Prag (will wait until the end of the guarantee period)

 

Just to clarify, is that SSD in the NVMe slot or did you swap it in place of the spinner HDD? Based on the fact the benchmark says SATA I am assuming you kept the stock NVMe drive and swapped this in place of the stock spinner HDD that your unit came with?

 

Dell may be using SATA drives in the M.2 slot instead of NVMe drives.