Dell Inspiron 7559

Statistically the BOE screen is terrible. 200 nit and only 45% color gamet. It might be a bit better with calibration, but physically the Samsung screen is superior and would probably be even better with calibration. Sadly not everyone has a calibrator.

 

Hi ! can you please provide where you bought the Samsung screen ? or which model is it?

 

Which is the way to calibrate the BOE screen ? does it worth change it for a samsung like a previous user did?

 

Bought it from Ebay , the model number is LTN156HL02-201
It's sold out from the seller that i bought it from but here is another one :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LTN156HL02-...854722?hash=item35f5d83802:g:yUsAAOSwZVhWTQI3

 

I took that picture at least five times and made sure that it was in the same exact lighting ,distance and without HDR , I was very surprised when i looked at the pictures too but it's that much stronger especially the pure colors (green,red,blue). Mixed colors such as purple and cyan are close though(kinda).

 

Received mine yesterday, Ordered on 23 Nov. Luckily the laptop come with LGD screen. So far I am satisfied with my purchase.

 

Here is an example of mixed colors that i didn't post because it was a bit blurry but you can still see the colors

BOE NV156


Samsung LTN156HL02-201

 

Hi guys, I'm going to receive my inspiron soon, and the first thing I want to do is to remove Dell/Intel/nVidia stickers, has anyone already tried? How did you proceed? Are remained glue or signs? Thank you!

 

Has anyone purchased upgrade memory from Dell. I tried to purchase some the other day and they sold me the following:

8 GB

Memory Type
DDR3 SDRAM - DIMM 240-pin

Upgrade Type
System specific

Data Integrity Check
Non-ECC

Speed
1600 MHz ( PC3-12800 )

Features
Dual rank , unbuffered

Voltage
1.5 V

OEM Manufacturer Equivalent Part Number
DELL A5709146

Manufacturer Warranty

I know this is the wrong RAM, but they swear it's gonna work. I told them this is desktop RAM because it has 240 pins and it also isn't PC3L--low voltage. I will receive it later today. If anyone has ordered RAM from Dell, please provide me with the item number. Thanks!!!!

 

You can't, it's not a stickers, the logo is built in the screen case

Someone here has good screen calibration please ?

 

I meant the stickers below the keyboard, for example the Intel i7 or Gtx ones

 

I forgot to ask this in the previous post. Can you please post your color calibration profile? I'd love to try it out.

 

oh ok my bad

 

I've used QuickGamma. It doesn't make the screen 100% accurate, but there is a discernible difference from the very warm default colors.

Still not satisfied with it & looking for other options.

Jp

 

Thank you, anyone else ?

Now I manage to improve the screen some basic tools from W10, but white still not white at all (more yellow/green white...). Will look at your QuickGamma

I don't understand why they choosed this poor screen

 

In this thread there was a calibrated display profile posted maybe 15 pages back. It made a noticeable difference on mine.

 

Well, you won't be able to flash a non-Dell BIOS from within Windows.

You will need to do it from a DOS bootable drive, like a DOS bootable USB, created via Rufus or other tools.

Most of the people who mod the BIOS also provide a flashable utility, in most cases, you just unzip the files & transfer to the bootable USB drive, boot from it & just run a bat file. Done!

HOWEVER... Bear in mind, that in machines which came with Windows 8, 1.1, 10 etc, the Windows key is stored in BIOS, so overwriting the BIOS will likely erase it. After it is done, your Windows activation has a good chance of getting cancelled.

All's not lost, you can extract the current Windows key & even if the BIOS key gets erased, you might be able to activate windows using that key using the comand 'slui 3'. Or do 'slui 4' to generate a string of numbers & then call Microsoft for activation. Google it for more information.

I followed the above process when I updated my BIOS to a non-official one (official BIOS wasn't available) & thus erased my key in my old laptop. Succeeded for me, but your mileage may vary.

Jp

 

It's on page 105 of this thread.

It's for the BOE display, by 'noobie107'.

I tried it on my 4k LG display, which is yellowish by default, to display everything a bit greenish.

So the search for a better profile for the 4k LG display continues...

Jp

 

I don't have a calibrator (or any tools for those kind of works). Just used the executable profile that someone on a review posted.
And ofcourse the Samsung screen is an upgrade...but I think your photograph makes it look like a total abomination - and it can look a lot better.

 

The large Dell sticker on the palm rest (that shouts that we get a subwoofer and other useless facts) is easely removed. Just peel of, no glue residue. I kept the i7 and GTX stickers...gotta show a bit ^^

 

Just a quick thank you for the guy (or girl) who gave the tip to turn off the Firefox hardware acceleration to avoid further errors.
Works like a charm!

 

So I tried your color calibration. It looks like it makes the display even more yellow. I tried Junky's ICM profile found here: (Great review BTW): http://www.gaminglaptopsjunky.com/dell-inspiron-15-7559-review/ and it looks pretty blue. :/ Junky's ICM profile seems to be closer to proper white though.

 

I extracted the BIOS using FPTW64.exe (v11) , replaced the vBios-Option-Rom with an unlocked vBios using MMTool (for Aptio V AMI) and flashed it with FPTW64.exe ... Everything looked fine, not a single error. Until I rebooted. The Laptop is bricked now. "Boot Guard" and "Verified Boot" is the Problem. Thats a new security feature in Broadwell and Skylake that prevents unsigned firmware from booting.

DONT FLASH ANYTHING

At least until you knwo how to disable Verified Boot...

 

On past laptops I've pulled off those Intel and Windows stickers and then used a little GooGone to cleanup the adhesive and it worked really well. I haven't tried it on the 7559 yet, but if you go that route make sure to test the GooGone in a less visible spot first just in case it reacts weirdly with the plastic on this one.

 

Guy. Great, glad it worked for you too. I don't know what changed recently, but it was an easy enough fix.

 

Yes, this one, although again for the BOE panel, looks quite good even on my 4k LG display.

Thanks,
Jp

 

The easiest way to calibrate the screen(without tools) is through Windows built in "Display Color Calibration" tool, just skip the contrast and brightness part and you can then adjust the red,blue,green color balance, i would start by decreasing the color that you feel is overpowering until it looks right to you.The replacement screen that i got was a bit on the green side so i just decreased the green bar by three "ticks" and that corrected it.

 

I saw people manage to underclock their CPU. I have the i7 version and it is sometimes a little hot, I do you easily underclokc it (like from 2.6 to 2.3Ghz in normal mode, because hey, I don't need all this power for Chrome or thing like that !)

 

My god you may have just saved me from an RMA. I basically did the same thing you did, unlocked my vBIOS through replacment of the option ROM. Created a DOS bootable USB and loaded up AFUDOS and my new .ROM BIOS I created. I basically just decided to wait before attempting to flash to see if any other experts can get this done safer. Glad I decided to wait.

 

I used to play Rainbow Six Siege with 1,3Ghz max frequency, sacrificing only 3 fps (74 to 71 on medium) for absolute silence

 

Did you turn off secure boot prior to attempting this flash?

 

I pulled off my stickers tonight. They came right off, no adhesive residue left.

 

I would first undervolt your CPU. Download and Install Intel XTU https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/24075/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-Intel-XTU-

Open it up, click to Advance Tuning Tab/All Controls/Core Voltage Offset/Select as a starting value -75mV.

This is your starting point that most CPUs have been able to undervolt fully stable since Haswell chips. Some can go more, for example I have mine fully stable -90mV since I've owned the laptop. Simply test this starting point out for a few days, if stable try and undervolt futher another -10mV or -5mV. If the system becomes unstable, it will simply reboot and default itself back to 0. Go back to your last known stable max undervolt, and either leave it there, or instead reduce the undervolt from the point of instability that just occurred.

Repeat this process until you have found the max undervolt. This will not reduce max core clocks, but will allow you to hit those clocks with significantly reduced temperatures.

If you're still not happy with the results, you can download ThrottleStop (credit to @unclewebb for creating this amazing program). Because the option to set max core multipliers is greyed out in XTU with this laptop, using ThrottleStop to set the multipliers is necessary. ThrottleStop will also allow you to disable TurboBoost, and instead lock the CPU to its max default clockspeed. Disabling TurboBoost in combination with the Intel XTU undervolt would most likely give you significant results and achieve the outcome you're looking for.

Goodluck!

 

What is the point of getting the i7 if you're going to do that?

 

The guy how to underclock his CPU, and also mentioned it getting warm. Undervolting is always a good thing with these CPUs and laptops. It comes at zero performance impact, in fact on Haswell offers a CPU performance gain as the CPU was able to achieve maximum/higher clockspeeds without hitting their power limit and throttling down. I've noticed no throttling on either the i5 or i7 skylake due to power limiting, though undervolting will still offer much better thermals at same performance.

He also wanted to underclock his CPU for light tasks. One way for him to run at a lower clock speed would be to simply turn off his turbo boost when doing light tasks such as using Chrome. If he wants he can create one or a few differenct custom profiles and select the multipliers to his liking for different computing needs.

Personally I would never limit my CPU or GPU in anyway but to each his own. It should always be able to run full speeds without throttling of any kind out of the box. Then I like to simply tweak it to either run faster or run cooler, or both. Both would be ideal.

 

No...
A few days ago, I tried to boot a Linux USB flashdrive. It was not working, so I pressed F12 while booting and changed the bootmode from UEFI to Legacy and secureboot off. Linux was working, but Windows was unable to boot.
Maybe the option UEFI with secureboot off could have saved me...

 

I tried the calibration of the review you gave us! and it works really good in my computer no more yellowish windows!

 

Don't know if it was mentioned but Dell uploaded a new sound card driver recently (within the past week or so) and at least from my perspective it does seem to improve the sound quality. Definitely not going to compare it to a $5000 hi-end stereo but it does sound better.

 

Yeah in France we can't get the i5 version, only i7 !

But the i7 get sometimes too warm (but I think the reason is that the laptop was on my legs and so I was obstructing the fans a little bit !)

I still working on the color of the screen, but still really to yellow compare to my destock screens or even from my phone (G3), it's really annoying because I always have good screen under my eyes, but everytime I run the Dell I'm like
"wow, that's really yellow"

 

This calibration is great for the BOE panel. Much better than out of the box or the other calibration profile posted earlier...not near as yellow...

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

 

Hi folks ... so i was wondering whether should i buy this or wait for the new gen gpu ....

My current msi notebook is giving a lot of problems.... i cannot use it without ac adapter, watching movies are stuttering most of the times AND I CANNOT PLAY GAMES ANYMORE because of the gpu is dead or something.

 

I just don't see Dell really going crazy on the GPU in a $800 laptop. Once you live with it you see where they cut corners like discussed in here - soso keyboard, bad all in one track/click pad, poor screen. But that all said for the price it's not bad, just plan on putting a bit more into it. Moving to an SSD, upgraded the wifi card, and a new screen. So basically another $250 or so, but even then there's no one in the $1000 that can touch it for hardware. Just wish the trackpad was better. I may dig around inside and see if I can help the feel of it some with some bracing to it.

If you are hardcore for gaming I personally think desktops are the way to go. At the very least you will need a mouse for this laptop for gaming.

 

I am trying to project the display onto my TV via HDMI. Whenever I do this and start a movie using VLC player and close the screen the movie stops and I get a Intel Video Card error. I have it set in power options to do nothing when screen is closed but it still happens. trying to use the Video Card settings in NVIDIA control panel to use the dedicated card with VLC but it wont allow me. I hate how the system always tries to use the intel video card first. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRCIATED!!!!

 

What wifi card would you recommend replacing it with? I was looking at The Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 802.11ac, dual band, 2x2 Wi-Fi + Bluetooth. It cost $35 on Amazon but looks too big but I don't really know.

 

Dumb question: how can I tell what screen I have?

I just bought this laptop (i7559-2512BLK, not 4k, not touchscreen) but I'm getting scared about opening the box after reading through this thread. Screen quality and accurate color reproduction is super important to me as I bought it primarily for video and photo editing and illustration (plus some mathematical modeling but that's not graphic intensive). I also bought the ASUS GL552VW and the Acer Aspire V15 (VN7)... dear 7559 owners, any strong feelings that I should I keep the box sealed and go with one of those two instead?

 

@Carlosrdd

I changed the original AC 3160 to the AC 7265 and it fits perfectly.

 

If you like laptops that overheat go with the Acer. I have no comment on the Asus as I haven't had one of those.

The Dell is the best value IMO. The screen can easily be replaced in about 10 minutes if you hate it. Stock screen is fine IMO.

 

Which one there 2 types of 7265 the NGW and IEEE

 

@Carlosrdd
NGW !!!!

 

Ok I got my LCD screen today. I am going to go through dell officially. They told me they'll send a technician to install the screen for me and also check out the finicky power button where I have to push the button 2-3 times to get it to activate. They said if they deem it to be faulty they'll replace the palm rest/power button.