*** ASUS Zephyrus M (GM501) Owner's Lounge ***

What is your router, I have a Nighthawk R7000 without a single hickup. Heck my speed and latency is pretty close to my hardwired desktop, limited by my ISP 400Mbps

 

I have the Fastgate from Fastweb, but I haven't had any problems with all my other devices, including my last Clevo notebooks. Plus, I'm always standing around only 20-30cm away from the router, because both. Haven't had the chance to try with other routers, though.

Which wifi driver are you using?

 

20.60.2.2 didn't do anything stock drivers unless windows updated it.

 

New owner here... I'm slowly reading through this thread and absorbing the info!

For CPU undervolting and GPU undervolting and OC, I wrote my experiences in a separate thread.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...undervolt-and-gpu-undervolt-overclock.826524/

After countless days (and little sleep) I can safely say that this laptop does not OC in the normal sense

Couple of examples
- Yes you can undervolt CPU core and cache differently, hence throttlestop is best I think, but...
- CPU core can't be undervolted very much, unless you undervolt cache more, and in steps... and also explains why you BSOD even though you moved cache undervolt slightly more (which should have "frozen" instead of BSOD).
- My GTX1070 - requires more and more MEM underclock to unlock more GPU Core performance. If you just overclock core and mem to a stable number, I can almost guarantee that you'll benchmark with worse scores in 3DMark or others. The sweetspot for me was cost to max core OC curve to 0.95V flatline, and -320Mhz MEM underclock - giving around 8% 3DMark GPU score imporvement
- Once you start messing about and get decent undervolt settings, you'll almost never thermal throttle - prime95 is an exception though. However you'll power throttle instead, so fine tuning GPU curves made me think I ran at higher clocks for lower V, but power throttle kicks in instead and performance on average is poorer
- 3DMark Timespy demo (must have the demo) is a far better test for CPU cache undervolt stability. It will system freeze even sometimes during the demo part, but more in the Graphics tests rather than CPU tests, if your cache is undervolted too much. It's a better tester that prime95 which passed hours of the worst tests
- Optimus interacts with your CPU cache undervolting. If you UV too much for the cache, Optimus will freeze your system during GPU switching.

I went into it a bit more in that thread I posted, so hope it's helpful for some.

 

My final config and test results for those interested... all in one post

My variant: Zephyrus M GM501GS EI002T, i7-8750H, GTX1070-8GB (Full), 16GB RAM single channel. Seems to be an Au spec, comes with 512GB SSD, 1TB SSHD. All else the same.

Repasting: No, left as stock

Throttlestop A/C Profile:

Core: -119.1mV, Cache -42.0mV
Intel GPU: -51.8mV, iGPU Unslice: -51.8mV
BD_PROCHOT, SpeedStep, C1E, SpeedShift=128​

Throttlestop Battery Profile:

Core: -119.1mV, Cache -42.0mV
Intel GPU: -51.8mV, iGPU Unslice: -51.8mV
BD_PROCHOT, SpeedStep, C1E, SpeedShift=250, Disable Turbo
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MSI AB Config:

+185 Core global OC (approx.), with min. point at 0.8v @1683MHz, to 1999MHz @ 0.95v (adjusted upwards slightly to this point)
Underclocked -325Mhz for MEM
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Test Results:

• CPU Temps... with the change to more core UV and less cache UV, temps have dropped even lower. 10-14 deg drop in max, 7-8 C drop stabilised temps. And that's because fans decided to slow down below 70C !!
• GPU temps also lower quite a bit - at least 10 C and now never thermals
• Gaming: 72-75 C, both CPU and GPU, down from 85 C stock for both
• CPU thermal throttling: none, except for prime95. You can blame the fan ramp up for this. If fans already full blast, stating prime95 will not thermal throttle.
• Power throttling - yes, depending on load. However impact is less after config mods.
• Battery life: Optimus + SpeedShift tweaks plus iGPU undervolt (why not): 9W idle power draw, 12W youtubing, 15W OCCT iGPU stress test. ie over 5.5hrs idle to 3.3hrs full iGPU load

Edit: I disabled AVX in Prime95, but still run small FFT. Will wait for ability to AVX offset in throttlestop (not available in bios) before re-running AVX test. I know for a fact that Prime95's AVX will BSOD at current settings.

Performance benchmarks:

• IntelBurnTest: 8% improvement on CPU (mainly due to thermal and power throttling)
• 3DMark Timespy: 8% improvement, dominated by power throttling instead

Using on lap: no problem, and better than my work laptop. With the hinged rear flap, you almost can't block the cooling venting (eg by your thighs).

Using with lid closed: cooling suffers a lot, but I haven't tested if it's worse that other laptops

Using on battery: with my settings, temps hardly goes over 40C on 26C ambient, on silent fan mode.

Fan: Noisy on full. If you modify your fan profile (haven't done it yet) I almost guarantee lower max temps. The ramp up is too slow.

Wifi dropouts: can confirm instability if right on the edge of range on 5.8GHz. 2.4GHz seems to have more range.

Game-streaming: prefer wired, although haven't tested both after optimising. Minor frame drops and input lag when it gets busy streaming to 1080p for quality settings. OTH Geforce Experience streaming seems to work better than Steam's in-home for LAN streaming, but I haven't tried optimising yet.

ROG Gaming Center: must have if you want to switch Optimus / G-SYNC. I haven't seen any other convenient method.

Bezel: Oh you complainers out there There's nothing to complain about here - keyboard is actually slightly wider than my mate's gaming keyboard - you'll have to sacrifice this if you want smaller bezels

Finger prints: all over the darn thing after 2 days use

Compared to desktop with same specs: Desktop better - due to power throttling which seems enforced in this machine

Max Power consumption: ~120-130W, measured at wall, for GPU and CPU. Add in peripherals and screen brightness, since I testing this through RDP.

Weight distribution: due to width, carrying from the side makes it feel awkwardly heavier compared to smaller but similarly weighted lappys.

 

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Bro, you are the best! Thank you for your time!
My mashine work with yours settings exellent (cpu and gpu max 75C in games)!

 

Sorry to say this but... you may think everything is fine, but those settings are far away from being stable. Run TS Bench and you will see you'll get A LOT of errors. My last fully stable values are -150.6 / -46.9 mV, varying maybe by around 1% depending on the specific cpu unit you have.

 

Ordered mine before christmas but it hasn't arrived yet. Based from the comments/feedback I've read from this post, it's gonna be a lot of fun. I live in AU so I got the model with 16gb of RAM, 512gb NVME SSD, 1tb SSHD, and a 1070. I've bought a kit of the Hyper X Impact 2666 2x16gb C15 kit and a 2tb SSD to replace the SSHD. Can't wait for it to arrive.

 

Thanks for pointing this out - you are absolutely right! For the the first time I tested in TS Bench and errors are off the roof!

I don't know why prime95, IBT, etc didn't pick up anything wrong even after long runs. After seeing TS Bench in action, it is awesome and far more consistent at finding errors.

Test running in 1024MB mode picks up more errors than in 64MB mode, so I used the 1024 mode. So I dropped cache down to -30.3mV so it unlocks more potential core UV than my core can handle, but I set core to 0 (since cache determines max core UV). Ran fine. Funny thing is, dropping core to -75 and cache to -40, HWinfo reads that it has ignored the -75 and dropped to 1.035v = -115 drop! Not sure why..

Dropping cache to -80, and core to -15, core is stuck at 1.065 which is a -85 drop... Dropping to -50 on cache, -70 on core, and core settles at 1.025 which is 125mV drop on core, but it does go up in voltage if required. will test more later to find the sweet spot as pressed for time now. @mediadoctor if yours is stable, i would drop to -50 for both for now. the high uv i had for cache does generate errors.

 

I've updated my numbers... in my previous post. Yes, as per reports by others, the most stable is below -125, -50 for core and cache. Mine is set to -119.1, -42 - for some safety margin. As an added note, core UV affects temp much more than cache. With these settings I'm seeing more than 10 C drop in temps for same 100% workloads.

 

Awesome call on the dual channel memory kit, with my limited testing I was getting a good margin of additional performance going dual channel, mostly seeing a HUGE improvement in Mechwarrior Online where in one map my frames drop to less than 30fps when first entering the map, this still happens but the frame drops are much quicker now lasting only a few seconds where before it could last like 10+ seconds which seems low on paper, however in game you all know 10 seconds is a lifetime.

 

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I used to repair laptops way back in late 90's early 2000's and had certs with Compaq, HP and Dell (Latitude line) among others.

Best advice I can think of is take your time, take snapshots of everything with your phone prior to removing things, this can help put things back, though not much of an issue with this machine as it's pretty straight forward.

Always unplug the battery first before tinkering around in there, try to get a plastic wedge/pry tool for the bottom case, I also like to use plastic picks removing the cables, if not available toothpicks are good just don't let them break or fray leaving slivers inside, avoid using metal tools around the circuitry until/unless you are comfortable.

Watch Bobs video a few more times, some of the cables have a latch that keep them in place some just plug out, never tug on the wire itself most will have a tab on the side or you can use the side of the plug for a bit of leverage.

 

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Hello,

Just wanted to update on one of my posts.
I Just recently upgraded the 60hz monitor to a 32" 1440p monitor with 144hz and also got a USB C to DisplayPort adapter and it does provide you with the full 144hz while using port instead of HDMI stuck at 120hz. I am still a bit if I should use the hub or go direct DisplayPort and use the 144hz, but the Screen I have takes longer to turn on with HDMI and DisplayPort is faster I'll likely just keep the new setup. But just wanted to provide the information if anyone is wondering if they would be able to use the full 144hz of their monitors.

So new setup is Monitor 1 is 32" 1440p at 144hz and 2nd monitor 27" at 120hz(possible 144hz but on HDMI). Old 60hz was a 24" monitor. I might just stick with one but for now, using 2 external monitors but depends if I'll use it more or not.

The one I'm using now:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

You will probably get mixed comments about using your fingers, some might say the oils can damage stuff over time or static you can shock etc ... me personally I have never had an issue using my fingers and finger nails just don't rub your socks on the carpet first and tap something metal before hand to discharge any built up static.

My hands are huge so for my Zephyrus I opted to use a plastic pick with a pretty fine tip as I'm used to using that.

 

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Yea that seems way too much paste, isopropyl alcohol, a toothpick and a micro fiber cloth should do the trick to clean it up. (Cotton swabs or balls can leave lint).

*Note some youtubers, linus tech tips if I recall, have tested too much paste vs the right amount with little difference with non conductive paste, so double check both fans are working and your in the same fan profile. It's possible too much paste on one component is causing poor heat pipe connection to other components so check that too.

I was a bit anal and used a toothpick and removed all the old paste, even between the components, but must caution you might damage components if your not careful.

Double check both fans are working and check out some pasting youtube videos (I recall one of the best ones shows that a dot vs a strip vs an X vs etc.. for the right amount of paste) Me personally I still use the old single stripe down the middle and spread with a plastic strip (credit card).

 

I got my gm501 from HID recently, but I noticed the trackpad is really finnicky. When scrolling, it isn't smooth and it jumps a ton, and when moving the trackpad around it isn't precise and I have to put in extra effort to getting it to go where I want, since it's always a little off. I tried seeing if there was a driver update, but there isn't. I also reinstalled the drivers, which also made no difference. Lastly, I played around with the touchpad settings, which doesn't make a difference either. Anyone else have this issue? A couple other things I noticed is that the speakers rattle a lot, and under a stress test the CPU shoots to like 95°C and throttles (with the best LM option offered by HID). The touchpad bugs me the most though. I haven't seen anyone else mention it.

 

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You can check both fans by either using a feather/tissue (just hanging near the vents) off the back and sides to check airflow movement and consistent airflow from both fans, or even easier the bottom plate that covers the fan can be removed to check the fan movement.

This is the youtube video I was referring to from Linus Tech Tips.

A dot in the middle isn't bad, I think intel has recommendation to what to apply depending on what CPU, though your image shows you may have applied too much so either it will squeeze off to the sides, not an issue if your using non conductive, or possibly you may not have the heatsink on tight where the excess paste could be raising the heatsink higher than intended, causing other components not to have a good connection to the heat spreader, this is just a guess though from you mentioning your heat is higher now that you repasted from before.

Check out the video linked above to see how much he applies using a dot etc ... note it's on the IHS of a full desktop CPU so quantity had to be a bit more.

Link here to intels page on thermal paste, note how much paste was applied to a larger desktop CPU integrated heat spreader

Also double check your Throttle Stop settings and they are active/applied if you haven't already.

 

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i just repasted mine with conductonaut and thermal pads for the rest. this must have been the most p.i.t.a. repaste i have ever done...the cleaning of the whole mess after lifting the heatsink was super anoying, also the removal of those sticker-thingies that hold the d.p., wifi etc. cables is a bit of a pain, and how @piteris2 stated, after the removal they barely stick again (at least it was like this for me also).
i was playing the division i.e with a max temp (except a really occasional higher spike for a split second) of 75c, now i Play at around 68c +/-. a nice side effect was that it evened my core-temps. i had up to 10c difference from lowest to highest, now i have around 4-5 max. that's super sweet.

@piteris2 i used isoproyl alcohol to clean the whole mess on all the parts underneath the heatsink (also some toothpicks etc. to clean this mess out from in between the components), no problemo. just make shure that you disconnect the battery and power drain the system first.

 

Did someone try ram above 2666 speed ?

 

I opted to cut a slit in the original black tape and use some new electrical tape. I believe some of that tape was creating a seal between the fan and fins to vent out and not leak back into the bottom for the intake to pick up hot air, if ur taking it apart again doesn't hurt to check the tape and apply some new tape in those cracks where the fan and exhaust fins align.

like _deadbydawn_ I've never had an issue using alcohol cleaning components like the VRMs though I use at least 91%+. I normally use the alcohol on a microfiber cloth and rub with that, never pouring the liquid direct to board.

Maybe someone else has had bad experience cleaning with rubbing alcohol, possibly they used 50% which I believe is diluted with water and didn't evaporate fully, or I can see if a component had a coating that alcohol could rub off.

 

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what throttlestop Settings do you use?

i did it, as i don't like paste on the vram etc. the way i did it was, i unscrewed the heatsink, took a Picture of the how the Notebook Mainboard looked like with the whole mess of thermal paste on. then i cleaned off all the thermal paste on top and in between the components. after that, i looked at the Picture i took earlier and cut the thermal pads to shape and applied them everywhere where there was paste before. i used 0.5mm pads for the whole components. i used alphacool Eisschicht 0.5mm (10cm x 10cm - 17w/mk) pads for this.

 

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i set speedshift to around 118.. 0 is realy pushing the Temps as it keeps the boost active even when not needed.

no i unfortunantely didn't take a pic in the end, but i (poorly...******** paint) drew the Placement on your photo...Looks like **** but you get the idea i think ;-) yeah i used conductonaut for gpu and cpu.

edit: i just noticed i forgot to draw a thermal pad...all the way on the Right side of the pic underneath the three other ones (you can still see some left over paste on those two suckers. sorry for that..

 

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well the ones on the left side of the photo, on the metal heatsink-kind-of-thing, i cut to shape (since there are bends etc. in the shape). the ones on the Right side i just cut into strips (just like the orange shapes i used, except no rounded Corners ;-) ).
i did get better Temps, only by a few Degrees but that's ok, most important to me was that it evend my core-temp-differences. before the upgrade under load the coolest core i had was i.e. 75 while the hottest core was close to 85 Degrees. after the upgrade, the difference between the coolest to the hottest core are now around 5 Degrees. i like that
i used thermal Grizzly conductonaut and those black q-tips that conductonaut Comes with. also, i put electrical tape on the cpu and gpu around the die to cover the parts that aren't supposed to get "splashed" with liquid metal. i cut 4 pieces of tape and put them on each side of the gpu (around the die), and the same for the cpu.

 

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no worries!
awesome, curious of the temps you will get

 

Hi. Had this laptop for a month or so. Do you guys encounter any hiccups when switching between optimus and discrete graphics card?

Sometimes after I update the nvidia drivers and switch to optimus it boots up, goes through windows, and once I get to the desktop it blacks out. Have to reboot to fix this problem.

Another time, I experienced the system not charging the battery, had to switch to optimus and then back to get it to work again and now everything is ok.

 

Got mine around a week ago and I haven't done any undervolting or repasting to it yet. Just replaced the RAM with 2x16gb Kingston Hyper X 2666mhz C15 sticks and the SSHD with a 2tb Samsung 860EVO. This is the first gaming laptop I've ever owned and I'm really happy with it. I'll probably undervolt it first then repaste with conductonaut so I can check before and after.

BTW, the RAM which came with mine was from Samsung not Hynix. I bought mine from Centrecom Australia.

Spoiler: RAM

 

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Yes, it is simple and easy. You've repasted your laptop so I'm sure a simple SSHD to SSD swap will be very easy for you.

 

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you just unscre the caddy, carefully detach the sata/power-cable/adapter and unscrew the sshd from the caddy, then you reattach the caddy to the new drive and reverse-order put it back in important to know is that the sshd is a 7mm-height disk. so be sure to get a 7mm-height ssd, otherwise it will not fit

 

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That should be it but to help out here's a picture of the inside and as he mentioned careful with the wire pointed in picture here when removing if pulled hard could come loose. Just do it slowly and if it does just softly put it back in.



Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

 

One bonus thing I noticed when changing my stock Firecuda SSHD to my Samsung SSD was the heat around the right wrist rest area is way less than before, however I changed mine fairly soon after I received my laptop so I think my Firecuda was working overtime when downloading all my steam games.

 

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I'm in doubt between the GM501 and the GS65, what do you say? Has anyone had the 2 and decided by which?

Another question would be in the choice of VGA, whether 1060 or 1070

 

Minimum 1070, better 2070. 2019~ needs 8gb vram imo.

 

[QUOTE = "Joikansai, post: 10846310, membro: 693623"] Mínimo 1070, melhor 2070. 2019 ~ precisa de 8gb vram imo. [/ QUOTE]

Unfortunately I can not wait, because I am from Brazil and will be in the US until Jan / 19. And importing is out of the question because of the high tax rates. So I'd rather take with what you have today.

 

Then precisa de 1070, do I pronounce it right @Vistar Shook

 

I agree with joikansai, the 1070 is your best choice if you cannot wait for the next gen gpu's. The 1070 in the zephyrus is not max q so you get some extra performance over the GS65.

 

Based on my tests using HW Monitor, the GPU overclocks quite a bit. With the laptop set to Turbo and the CPU frequency limited to 3.2 - 3.6, the GPU goes all the way up to 1860 MHz. Based on what I could find online the turbo boost for this card should be 1645.
Is this normal?
Did anyone else notice this?