*** ASUS ROG G703GX-XS71 Owner's Lounge ***

The coil wine comes from the GPU and usually there is nothing you can do from what I read on this issue when first time I noticed it. Some GPU's come with coil wine, alot of wattage is pushing through these 2080's.
Mine does it too. It's not to rough and it doesn't bother me too much.
When I game I use a voltage curve to lower it to a more faded sound.
I think it works by scaling voltage and wattage. Less voltage makes it less annoying.

 

Both good points, I will try to mess with the GPU curve to see if it does anything and at some point I will have to open it up and check the paste on the vrms (maybe replace with pads, now that we know the correct thickness).

 

If you go with pads usually softer are better. The ones I got from fujipoly are like putty, they tear easily and a bit hard to work with.

 

I tweaked a bit more the MSI Afterburner curve and I think the coil whine got weaker.

How do your curves look like?

 

I have two profiles, one locked at 850mV runing at 1860MHz and one locked at 912mV running at 1960mV. I switch between them depending on game. I honestly barely hear any coil sound running these settings.
If voltage is locked the GPU doesn't go above setup limit and at these values it runs without issues on my end.
Have you noticed an increase in temperature, voltage or power limit on GPU side? I do remember out of the box my unit was like that. I even forgot about I guess because it doesn't do it anymore, not as agressive at least.

 

Hey guys

Do you think this is worth its price from this link?

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/asus...-g-sync-i7-9750h-gaming-laptop-lt-282-as.html

There is also one that is open boxed that is £150 cheaper. I’m not familiar with the laptop but specs look good for its price.

 

Hi everyone, I had a WiFi problem this morning, it just wasn't an option in windows 10, tried reinstalling driver, system restore ect! It was code 10 error, after googling I found out it can happen on any WiFi update for this model WiFi chip, only way to fix it is to load up the bios and to do a restore defaults in the bios!

Idk if this was to do with me downloading new cod all dya yesterday or not, but simple fix to keep in mind incase it happens

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Hi guys

Does the Asus section have a driver update like in MSI for the GT75?

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/msi-gt75-titan-drivers-8th-gen.800622/

 

https://www.asustreiber.de/downloads/download/60-windows-10/833-g703gx-r-treiber-dvd

eSupport driver image v3.07 if anyone needs it.
Works for both GX and GXR models

 

Why is it only possible to create a raid array with the PM981 + 2x760p. What's the trick?
I want to get rid of this janky setup (no SMART, no TRIM, 4k perofrmance is gabrage. Only sequential is 8GB/s so a typical bragging right setup) and replace it with 3x single 970PRO's (or in raid0) but RST only shows one drive installed...

Wait, why?
https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1036497/

 

Hi guys,
could somebody with the 9980 +2080 do a -120+ undervolt on CPU @ 4.7Ghz and overclock GPU and give readings of temps and OC + a fire strike run, please.

Trying to find out what the system optimised with factory LM is like, read all 40 pages and nothing like there on here.
@Scorpik
Thanks in advance.

 

24 008 Score
CPU at 4.692 whole test ( no throttleling at all)
GPU at 2040 whole test ( same like CPU )
Max CPU temp at hottest core was 85 Degree
Did loop test for 30 minutes
Don't remember the GPU temps, I am at work now so can't checked it

3mark.com/fs/20373337

 

I can't cope with Throttlestop and Armoury Crate running next to each other, really.

If I don't use Armoury Crate I:
- Lose my ability to switch between G-Sync / Optimus
- Seem to have my CPU locked at some low PL1, no matter what Throttlestop says
- My GPU TDP is locked at max 150W

But when I use Armoury Crate:
- Balanced profile caps the CPU long power limit at 65-70W, Trottlestop can't override this.
- To utilize the full potential of the 9980HK, you have to put Armoury Crate into Turbo profile and the system gets loud as hell all the time and reacts very sharp to temp changes.

So far the only workaround I found is to set the profile to Turbo and then to Manual where you can set the max fan speed at 40%...that way it retains the full cpu power. Finally i set the power limit at 150W in Throttlestop but still I get stuttering somewhere, like the game stopping for 0.1s of a second.

Im loaing my patience for all this garbage software to make this thing work properly. Now when I go back to Balanced in AC, it locks the fans at 1500RPM even if the CPU is 95c.

 

Hi martin778

Doesn't Optimus not come on automatically if you are not using an application that needs to use the GPU? It's been awhile since I've used a laptop with Optimus.

I've been interested in this machine and considering uninstalling Armoury Crate but concerned in losing certain functionality. But I'm not planning to overclock just to keep things cool and not too loud.

 

Hello again,

Lest start from start you need alway have you profile at Armory on Turbo Mode ( because that unlimited you wattage for CPU and allow the max wattage for GPU - 200 Watts )
The second think, you can't use Trothlestop and Armory at same time because Armory is base at Intel platform ( XTU ).
There is two ways to do it, first set up at Armory that your PC will automatically start at Turbo mode ( when is plug in ), then reboot your computer and don't open Armory at all, just open Throtlrstop and setup what you want over there
Or the second one, same setup boot at Turbo mode, but instead have a Trothlestop download a Intel XTU and setup everything there ( what is good with XTU is that that software working with Armory, because is based on same background system)
I prefer Throtlestop, but with mine Asus after few test I move to XTU what is much better
Can I ask how much points you received at benchmark ?

 

Hello all,

@wilpang
There is no different way how to switch optimus / GPU on system, only at Armory,
But there is no issue with it, if you use XTU and play with you machine for couple of hours to find the sweet spot and then the machine is just amazing

@martin778
Use the XTU and try underwolted the CPU max -100 and put all power limits to max and then you will see the magic

 

Yes, G703 has an Optimus->G-Sync software switch. It needs a full reboot to switch between modes.
There MUST be some kind of registry hack for this to permanently unlock CPU limits without making the fans scream in turbo mode.

 

@martin778

Is easy to do it with out any hack man, go to Armory software to manual / AC mood , right beside Turbo mode and there you can choose the lowest and the max fan speed, so you can put the lowest at 25 percent and the max at 100 percent and the Fans will be runs dependent on CPU temperature and as well the AC / Manual mode redeem all power limits for CPU
So just theoretically with good conditions you Fan can be very quite depens on the task on CPU on real time

 

And one more think lads,

This is a desktop replacement, mine one got 24K points at Fire Strike, i9 9900K with 2080 Desktop version get around 25.5K points, so this "laptop" ( what is not a laptop, but a desktop replacement) should be heavy, tick, bulky and load, because is a desktop on "body" what you can take anytime away.
Is no point buy this machine and don't use full GPU / CPU potential, because that is just waste of money, don't know how ye, but I did spend 4K € with out tax to get this beast.

 

That depend, I tried it and they get very sharp response when AC is in Turbo mode so it will constantly fluctuate between the 25-100%, like all the time.

 

@martin778
I talk about manual mosde and yes the Fans need be "sharp" to turn on quickly as possible when the CPU go hot

 

In the Nvidia Control Panel, does it not have Auto select in the Manage 3D settings, where you can select High performance or Integrated graphics or Auto select? I wasn't aware that has changed...

 

Hmmm interesting, I haven't seen it in settings. Also when it runs in Optimus mode the G-Sync isn't even visible in Nvidia menu (which is correct since G-S doesn't support Optimus).

 

I'm still fighting with it because it has massive frame drops, like 30-140-130-140-100-50-30FPS making racing games unplayable. this is in balanced mode.

 

@martin778

Instal HWmonitor or other software for monitoring clock speed, wattage and temperature, then start play a game and then investigate the "lagg issue" ( when the FPS drop ) if there will be anything in red, then you know where is the problem, this is only the one way how to sort this.

 

I play everything at ultra , triple A titles and have 120 - 140 FPS in any game, normally 135-140

 

Nothing in red and no measured frame drops.
I will be returning it because the SSD issues are driving me nuts. They did something with the CPU lanes for NVMe's and even after formatting the 970PRO drives and rebooting - one drive 'unformats' itself and the other disappears.
If it doesn't support 3x NVMe or only if they're Intel 760p's just put it in the specs darnit but this is typical ASUS really, always looking for a way around something by tinkering with the lanes, firmware etc.

 

Check the Bios seting, I have the 3 standart NVMe and don't plane is change atm, brcause they are enough fast for me, I know one single Samsung 970Pro is same speed, so 3x that will be much faster, but I honestly don't need it, windows boot under 5s , all games and program start instantly, so don't see the reason why swap them...
I will be gues is just driver or bios issue and I believe is possible to fix it

 

I think it's broken already, 10 minutes to reboot windows. I reinstall the OS fully, run Windows update and we're at step 1 = 10 minutes to reboot.

 

Hm this look like some nasty driver bug ...
I play with mine whole day today and did another record in 3dmmark, but still have issue with frostpunk ( if someone know that game ) the video in game is lagging and the sound is "bad" but is mostly bug on game
Everything else is perfect, but maybe I was just lucky, like I said already mine burn out after first 10 minutes of benchmarking and went to the service for a 30 days, where I was lucky, because after fixing the burned Vram at GPU and few tested asus device replace whole motherboard ( there is sealed cpu, gpu ) so when the laptop come back, mine temperatures was much better ( because the service technick did excellent job with the liquid metal ) temperatures before on benchmark was at 92 C on CPU and heavy throttling and now with out XTU installed 85 C max and no theotleling at all.
I think you just mixed some drivers or some setting at Bios, try factory bios reset, instal windows and reinstall correct drives, I think this will be help, I know that is painful like S**t but that is only the one way how to fix it , because believe me, this machine is undestroyable, and I know it, I did destroy the first one so when the second one ( new mobo, cpu, gpu ) did arrived, I decided to destroy it again, due.ti EU policy after second time they need offer fully money rembuismet or brant new machine with discount and gues what ? 48 H in 3dmarks and the PC is still here so I am sorry but I do love it to bits
I believe you will find the way how to fix it and then you will find the true potential of this desktop replacement
And one question for you at end, why you deceive to move the "factory M.2 nvmssd ? Because I don't see point and look what that cost you ( mean the hassles )

 

I removed the stock SSD's the day I got this notebook because the stock raid is slow and potentially dangerous (triple the chance of failure in case of one SSD crashing). SSD's rarely die but if they do, they tend to do it suddenly and without warning.
It's a raid0 built on mediocre TLC SSD's that was only good on sustained reads and even then they're doing stuff you're not supposed to do with raid = using different models of drives together.
I also needed more space than 1.5TB so I went from 3x512 to 3x1TB drives and removed the 2.5" HDD.

I'm wondering, what's the difference between the FN+F5 key combination and the profiles in Armoury Crate. They seem to do exactly the same, even when Armoury Crate app is not installed (yay).

Slow reboots are fixed now, by the way it seems like the controller MUST be in AHCI mode when using anything else than the stock drive, otherwise it's acting up.

Do you have the same issue where after 10-15 minutes of gaming the power limit drops to 50-55W? I have it when playing in balanced mode. The clock starts bouncing from 2700 to 4400 all the time and Throttlestop shows throttling around 50W...

Spoiler

 

Hi everyone a few days ago my laptop black screened, and shut straight off! Turned back on straight after and worked fine since! Assuming temp related?

So it's not undervolted, is usually limited to 3.4ghz, and is the 8750h repasted with artic mx4. And I was online on call of duty at the time.

I have stress tested it since this and seemed fine, then I unlimited the cpu to go right up to around 4ghz, again seems fine? The temp sits at around 80c in aid64 which is what I usually use.

After this I ran real bench (from Asus website download) and the stress test would sit around 76 but would jump to 81, to 75, ect ect, after a 45 min stress test it would still not have a consistent temp but jump around within 5c or so, max it ever hit was 93, this is when I ran aid64 and real bench at the same time!

After this I decided that maybe it's the program, fired up hw monitor as well which I usually put in background to see max temp after gaming and real bench is right, it seems to jump all over the place as shown in realbench,

Is this normal or should I swap out the paste? I know another member here had temp spikes in mx4 but I don't know if they were similar to this at all

*photos below were what I've done to make this post. Not the original stress test

Thanks for any help

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

This is tests when limited to 3.4ghz, ignore max temp in real bench, I didn't close program inbetween, hw monitor should tell

The crash might be unrelated to temps, but wanted to rule it out first before checking anything else, could even have just been a general windows crash

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Hello all,

@martin778
Can I ask you please why you chose throttlestop against XTU ( I use XTU only because Armory)

I don't have 55W issue when I played games, but that maybe because you are use throtlestop ( armory is based at XTU ) so if you would like use Throtlestop, you shouldn't have Armory installed at all, because there is "big negative interruption"
Bot of them ( thrtotllestop and XTU ) modoficate bios power limits on PL 1 and PL2 ( for cpu ) so if you have Armory ( what is based in XTU and is build in bios ) and then decide use Theitlestop, I think there will be loads.of small "issues" what need be fixed.
I reinstalling to factory setting mine pc just now, so I will also try some testing mine self to see.what is going on

 

Hard shutdowns are not CPU temp related, from what I've seen in the past years:
- Overcurrent condition on the Vcore VRM
- Defective motherboard VRM
- Chipset / VRM overtemp
- Defective CPU unit (had one started shutting down, more often and often until it finally died)

I would check your VRM thermal pads...and if it ever shuts down when gaming, RMA it right away.

@Scorpik
Throttlestop works a lot better with profile switching and starting together with Windows.

 

@martin778

Agree with that, but for me change the PL1 and PL2 limits working much better at XTU dont know what, but after whole night benchmarking ( last night ) mine XTU just totally mess whole bios setting ( I did completely uninstall and load the defaults profiles, but didn't help ) so I did reinstall the PC, will try Thektlestop and will see
Personali like It more then a XTU but for some reason dont wanna work for me ...
Gues is a big error between the keyboard and seat
How you manage change the PL1 and PL2 settings at throtlestop please ?

@rmillsg703
Yes I agree with Martin, that look like mobos VRM ( hate T9 and text editing) issues, did you repeate your CPU ( I gues - read yes ) so probably one VRam is not proper connect to heatsink or you dont use enough paste, or you use a less / much tick thermal tape ( what mean is not connected correct )

 

Let's not confuse things
VRM - voltage regulator module, the chips that supply current and voltage to the chip
VRAM - video memory of your graphics card. These shouldn't 'die' if they're not making proper contact but they might overheat and artifact or crash.

XTU is bloated imo, I prefer the more compact interface of Throttlestop. The only issue being Armoury Crate and TS 'biting' each other. It feels like Throttlestop overrules PL1 of AC and AC overrules the PL2.
I now run the CPU at 4.4GHz and GPU at 1995MHz 0.96V so pretty much desktop performance.
The trick is to run Armoury Crate in Turbo mode, max fan speed 70% on both. In GRID I'm around 70*C GPU OC'ed and around 80*C CPU all core.

I have finally managed to find a suitable backpack for the G703 - you must look for 18.4 inch bags. 17 won't fit at all. I got myself the Everki Titan but you have to watch out when zipping because the G703 is so wide that it sticks out a bit on top.

 

@martin778

When I use the TPL at Throtlestop,

What are the Turbo Boost Power Limits Clamp options please? Should they be tick or untick ?

Second question, you did setup your GPU via the throtlestop too ? How ?
I newer do it before ( normally use MSI Afterburner )
Thanks

 

Thorttlestop is not suitable for GPU controls. I use Afterburner with a custom curve.
I don't touch the TPL in TS at the moment, they're like 200/200W by default and others are overruled by Armoury Crate.

Does anybody know if the G703GXR supports XMP? It has a memory profile setting in BIOS but I'm not sure if it's XMP or something else since there is no explanation.
I wonder if you can remove the stock 32GB RAM without having to remove the heatsinks?

 

Hi everyone, found that it was the vrms as suggested, artic mx4 had all but gone from the vrms, was still completely fine on vrams and had started to go from gpu/cpu but was still working on them!

Have ordered some carbonaut for gpu (25x25 0.2mm as previously stated) and I'm going to try to cut a 2nd one to cpu size as a member here previously has!

Firstly will the tape type stuff around the cpu/gpu protect it if it was to slide when applying from electric activity? As it is conductive! Or should I stick some electric tape around it as linus tech tips did when he applyed liquid metal?

Secoudly I can't find any of the 0.3mm thermal pads, so was just going to use paste on all of vrm/vram again, any recommendations as I know the k5 cracked previously for someone, artic mx4 has just failed in mine and I know nothing about noctua,

*old photo, haven't got time to take another as I put it back togetber

Many thanks
Ryan

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

MX-4 is great to keep temps down but it pumps out on laptop dies. MX-4 works better on full size IHS's than on bare dies.
Fujipoly ultra extreme 0.3mm pads have good thermal conductivity 17W/mk but there are other options like 0.3mm thermal tape but with less thermal conductivity.
Once Carbonaut is installed and preasure is applied from the heatsink it sticks to both CPU and GPU dies so I don't think it is any risk from using it as long as it is cut to size.

 

*wrong post, don't know how to delete comment

 

I think we do not have that option

 

Have you guys received a Nvidia bundle for purchasing a RTX laptop? I think it was Metro Exodus previously and currently the new Modern Warfare or has it ran out?

Edit: Just checked it looks like it ran out mid Nov, oh well...

 

Why would you use Carbonaut? It's not suitable for a high end notebook, in fact it's inferior to most pastes even if the dry specs state otherwise. You need maximum heat conductivity so liquid metal or Kryonaut at the moment. LM on GPU is not recommended as it has a high chance of leaking out.
If you still want to use Carbonaut, just cut it to size, no need to isolate anything around.
K5 cannot crack as it's a Play-Dough like compound that's always like this, it doesn't harden enough to crack.

Question to anyone who opened his G703GX(R). Can you access the upper memory slots without removing the cooling? I'd like to upgrade my RAM but it this model has factory LM which I don't want to touch.

 

Carbonaut performs as good or better than MX-4. I use it for a while now.
K5 does crack, It did on my unit, I posted some pics a few pages back.
I don't know why, it might be due to oscilating temps, expands during extreme heat and contracts when cool.
It wasn't dry and I am not sure if it performed worse but I do believe thermal pads are for the long run and keep it more stable.
As for kryonaut it is only best to use below 80⁰C which is max temp to be used under.
Carbonaut you just installed and it never goes bad. Plus it only underperforms 2-3 degrees kryonaut.

 

Sorry for double post but does anyone know what type of motherboard topology is this? T-topology or daisy chain?
Since ram are so cheap nowadays I want to fill all slots and since it only suports dual channel I wonder if memory clock will go to something like 2400mhz or even 2133mhz if all slots are ocupied?
I didn't know if this issue was discussed here before.
I already run 32GB both sticks installed on the back side of the motherboard and I want to add 2 more sticks.
So basicaly will be 4 ram sticks running in dual channel. Usualy this setup will downclock ram speed but I know that coffe lake also has a good memory controller and should work fine without instability or loss of performance.

 

What on earth would you need 64GB for? I've tried it and it was BSOD'ing randomly, 2x16GB G.skill and 2x16GB stock Samsung RAM. BAD POOL CALLER bsod's etc. all day.
I don't think this IMC will take 4x16GB, desktops rarely do and even though they sometimes need a lot of tinkering to get it stable.

 

That's my concern too with 4x 16GB of RAM
I know running this setup will result in alot of headache.
But if the motherboard layout is T-topology it might have an advantage in keeping the system stable and without any performance issues.
No real reason to need 64GB aside from the fact than to alow Windows 10 to create a bigger page file to store everything. I usualy put it to sleep and hybernate instead of turning it of when I am not using it plus Windows 10 has that "feature" to compress RAM and lie about how much it actualy uses in real time.

 

Seriously, what is wrong with this notebook is beyond my understanding. I cant play anything decently because of massive stuttering. Even if it doesn't hit the PWR limit, it still stutters.
You see FPS going from 140 to 50-60 for a split second which makes racing games unplayable, let alone shooters. This happens even when my car is standing still, on loading screens at.
I'm running in discrete/G-Sync mode so we can rule out Optimus.
Look mainly at how jagged the GPU load is even when I'm standing still on the map or just when in lobby.
See:

And this is when doing a race in Forza, look how jagged the GPU load bar is:

This happens in all modes except silent mode, there the stutter is less visible. All temps are fine. Compare the same race but when in silent mode as opposed to Balanced/Turbo: