Precision 7530 & Precision 7730 owner's thread

Very useful information! Yes I was using the TB3 port to display to my external monitor. I just rechecked running from the laptop display and PCH shows 38 deg C now. I already ordered before a mDP to DP 1.4 cable because for my desk setup I prefer the port on the back of the laptop (mDP) vs left side (TB3).

 

@Ionising_Radiation I changed some additional things. With all power plan details set to maximize battery life where ever possible, switchable graphics iGPU running not dGPU, Windows battery saver mode on, with 50% brightness on the UHD panel, undervolting -120mV CPU and cache and -50mV iGPU, HWiNFO sometimes drops to as little as -12.5W battery draw.

 

And everything will run cooler using mDP. It would be useful, given the discussion about power consumption, to see the effect on the power drain. That's probably easiest by comparing the battery power drain with / without using TB3 to drive the display (not that one would normally run an external display when running on battery). I had hoped, given that we are now two hardware generations further down the line, that Intel would have got to grips with TB3 power management. It seems not.

John

 

Planning to add a 500 Gb Samsung 970 EVO. Is it just open, plug and play?

 

Yep.

 

My 7730 had a very acceptable amount of throttling stock, which was eliminated at CPU-only load by applying just a 100mV undervolt. However, there's some degree in luck in what you'll get... results depend on the chip and on the heatsink assembly. The heatsink is capable enough, though.

 

Hey there, long time reader, first time poster here...
I have an M6700 and am eyeing on the 7730 as I need as much CPU performance as I can get for my kind of work (audio production).
This would be connected via a dock (probably TB16 to keep an extra TB port for my firewire device) to two further screens, and said audio hardware (firewire) via TB adapters.
Also, I am looking at low DPC latency to prevent audio dropouts.

Does anybody have a chance to check what a 7730 with NVidia gpu is like in terms of DPC latency (using latencymon for example?)

Also, has anybody experienced using firewire devices (audio even?) through TB3 to TB2 to FW800 adapters? Any other ways (express card boxes via TB for example)?

I would like to try and contribute to the other posters issues too, not sure if it is a lot of help, but my M6700 has an issue in underclocking/throttling PCIe bus and thus GPU performance until I (unplug first) replug the power cord. Maybe this will change some of the power consumption for the battery tests - plug and unplug the cord on battery use to see if anything changes?
Never could get that solved on my M6700, on the phone to Dell, even nVidia support and devs, drivers, firmware, no luck.
Hope this helps!

And thanks to anybody having some info on my issues.
Cheers,
Andrew

 

So I just got my 7730 and the backlight bleed is atrocious in the bottom right corner. It feels like the display chassis is too tight or something. I remember someone in a previous post mentioning about taking the display frame apart to fix this. Can anyone assist?


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It is. When physically installing just make sure to not take off the thermal pad from the thermal plate by accident (and always unplug the battery!). On my 7530 Slot 3 (SSD-1) had a small sponge spacer and cover strip for the thermal pad which at first I totally removed. Slot 5 (SSD-0) had the thermal pad already the way it should look since the boot SSD that came with laptop was there.

If you want to stay with the stock Microsoft NVMe drivers then it is plug and play. If you want to install the Samsung NVMe drivers they can be found here https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/download/tools/. You will also find the Samsung Magician software there too if you want to install that. The only useful thing in the Magician software for NVMe drives is convenient overprovisioning setup, though that can be done manually anyway by keeping an 10% unallocated partition

 

Push the display down all the way; you'll see the hinges lift up. Use a plastic spudger and pry under the gap of the display assembly at the hinge—there are tiny gaps there for that very purpose. Lever up the spudger, and the display bezel will pop out. Gently pry out the bezel all around (there is adhesive on the bezel that keeps it in; be as gentle as possible so as to not tear the adhesive strip).

Take it off, and readjust the display assembly a little; then push the bezel back down. You would've likely loosened the pressure of the bezel on the display itself now, which will likely alleviate most of the 'bleeding', which isn't really bleeding as much as it is being pressed on by the bezel.