HowTo: Latitude E6400 (and similar) Performance + Cooling Guide

Welcome to the Latitude E6400 (and comparable Latitude/Precision models) cooling/performance guide. It is recommended for enthusiasts only – please know what you are doing and read the ENTIRE guide before attempting ANY of this. This guide has been in the making for a really long time. I’ve been promising it around this forum for what is probably close to a month, but because of numerous issues, testing if my suggestions actually do make a difference in temperatures, and the fact that I’m currently extremely busy, it has taken forever to write. Finally, here it is. However, prepare for probably one of the longest disclaimers on NBR first (just covering all my bases, guys):

Disclaimer
This guide has been written as and is intended to be used only as a source of information. This guide in no way implies that the author recommends performing any of the modifications discussed herein. By choosing to perform any of the actions mentioned in this guide, the owner of the system being modified, NOT the author is responsible for any possible outcomes and/or consequences resulting from using any information from this guide. The risks of performing any modification discussed in this guide include, but are not limited to: data loss, property loss, personal injury, or death. Even without express agreement with this disclaimer, the reader assumes all responsibility of these and other outcomes and releases the writer from any responsibility whatsoever. The reader agrees not to sue or hold accountable for in any other way the author of this guide, any persons mentioned and/or associated with this guide, and any corporation mentioned and/or associated with this guide. As is with all modifications, taking any action discussed here may increase the chance of the failure of any component of the notebook. Any of these modifications may void your manufacturer, retailer, and/or other type of warranty. Any modification in this guide may have unintended and ill-causing effects; it may even cause the opposite of the desired effect. Any of these modifications may cause irreversible damage to the system, and may be themselves irreversible. Once again, the writer of this guide is not responsible for any of this, and will not be financially obligated to repair any damages. You may not make false warranty claims to Dell or any other warranty providing corporation or entity as a result of damage incurred from this guide. By using any software or other guides mentioned in this guide, you must read and choose to agree or disagree with the licensing agreements and/or disclaimers. This guide in no way encourages or implies acceptance of the agreements/disclaimers. All information in this guide is believed to be accurate by the author at the time of writing, but there is no assurance of this fact. Always comply with local, state/regional, and federal laws. THE READER OF THIS GUIDE ASSUMES ALL RESPONSIBILITY FROM ANY ACTIONS THAT RESULT FROM THIS GUIDE OR ANYTHING MENTIONED HEREIN.

Part 1: Performance
I'm sure there's a lot of us that would like to squeeze just a little bit more performance out of our system, me included. This section is split up into recommendations for each the CPU and GPU, as well as subsections for total replacement, and just overclocking.

CPU – Replacement/Upgrade
In case any of you want to swap your current GPU out for something more/less powerful, here is a nice list of just what CPUs will work with the E6400. According to my knowledge, this list is good for the E6400, E6500, and M2400. The M4400 and M6400 can accept the quad cores, while the E4300 and E4200 have their processors soldiered to the motherboard.

Always upgrade your BIOS to the latest version before upgrading your CPU.

Compatible
P8400 2.26
P8600 2.4
P8700 2.53
P8800 2.66
P9500 2.53
P9600 2.66
P9700 2.8
T9400 2.53
T9550 2.66
T9600 2.8
T9800 2.93
T9900 3.06
X9100 3.06 (undervolting highly recommended)

Unknown/May Work
P7350 2.0
P7450 2.13

Other Intel mobile processors that are (a) Socket P, AND (b) Have 1066mhz FSB, AND (c) Have a PGA package (pin grid array).

Will Not Work
Q9000 2.0
Q9100 2.26 (tested by me)
QX9300 2.53

Non Intel Mobile Processors
Processors that do not have a 1066mhz FSB
Processors that are not Socket P
Processors that are not available in a PGA package
Intel Core i7 Mobile Processors


GPU – Replacement
The GPU on the E6400 is soldiered into the motherboard is soldered onto the motherboard and is thus not user replaceable, for all intents and purposes. Basically, anyone with a X4500MHD can upgrade to a Quadro NVS 160M or Quadro FX 370M by swapping out the motherboard from one from a Nvidia based E6400 or Nvidia based Precision M2400. Users with Nvidia graphics can switch from 160M to 370M and vice versa, however, there is almost no difference between cards, so the cost is not justifiable at all. I’m just throwing it out there because it is possible. Nvidia users can also downgrade to Intel graphics. To my knowledge, E6400 and M2400 motherboards are completely interchangeable.

CPU – Overclocking
After some investigation into the PLL of the E6400, I have concluded that overclocking is currently impossible. There is no overclocking program that supports this PLL, to my knowledge. For reference, the PLL is located at the top right corner of the motherboard on the keyboard side, and has the following on it:

Pericom Logo
PI3L
500-AZFE
A0820XG
IND

GPU – Overclocking
This is possible and quite easy through Nvidia’s tuning software. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t going to copy completely from GoodBytes’s excellent guide. It’s really great and through – good job! If you are interested, here is a link: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=360567.

Part 2: Cooling
Quite a few users here have significant overheating problems with their E6400s. Luckily I haven’t had said problem, I’ll still offer a few steps to cooling that system down to an acceptable level.

Step 1) If your GPU or CPU has EVER passed 100C under stock conditions, you have a serious problem and should contact Dell. If you follow this guide without doing so and damage occurs later, your warranty will be void. To be on the safe side, contact Dell in a situation like this and ask for a replacement.

Optional) This really applies to users with Intel graphics, and is pure theory by me. It appears that Intel based systems use a less potent heatsink than Nvidia based systems, as illustrated by this photo, courtesy of John Ratsey: http://forum.notebookreview.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32250&d=1238075088. In case you need clarification, the one on the left is Intel, and the one on the right is Nvidia. If you are interested in switching to the thicker version, you will have to order the part from Dell, part# YP280. Again, this is untested and is just a theory/idea developed by me.

Step 2) Try undervolting your CPU. This will allow your CPU to run at lower temperatures, with potentially no disadvantages if done correctly. However, if your clock speed is 2.26, 2.53, 2.8, or 3.06ghz, you will lose 0.13ghz of clock speed, to 2.13, 2.4, 2.66, or 2.93ghz, respectively. This is, unfortunately, due to limitations in RMClock, the program used for the undervolt. Again, flipfire has a much better guide than I could ever write, so kudos to him. Here is his guide: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=235824.

Step 3) This isn’t really a permanent solution, but if you’re going to overclock your GPU at all, a cooling pad on your desk is not a bad idea. I use the Zalman NC-1000. It is quite effective in reducing temperatures, fits the notebook perfectly, and is well made and looks good.

Optional) Dell sells a product called the CoolSlice that plugs into the dock port of the notebook and seems to lift it up. I imagine that this would be effective only on a bed or carpet. The only review on the product page (here) says that the laptop may be hotter with than without, but this probably depends on usage. This would negate any benefit of a cooling pad, so I don't really recommend it. If anyone wants to drop a few dollars on this and test it out, please do!

Step 4) Do a copper mod. Admittedly, I learned what a copper mod even was from sinstoic’s awesome XPS M1330 Copper Mod guide. I feel like the E6400 has requirements that are different enough, though, to warrant a whole new procedure. Since this is part of a larger guide though, you may want to refer to some of his FAQs and links that I don’t cover here. A copper mod will void your warranty permanently, and may cause irreversible damage. If you’re not comfortable with opening up your computer, and don’t know what you’re doing, please don’t attempt this.

1) Take the battery out of the computer, and open it up by removing the single screw holding the bottom panel in place, and slide out the panel. Remove the heatsink by removing the 4 captive screws from the top left, counterclockwise. Unplug the fan and lift the assembly out.

Bottom Cover


Cooling Assembly


What It Looks Like

2) Decide if you’re going to going to copper mod just the GPU or the GPU and northbridge. I do not recommend doing the northbridge because it does not seem to help much. However, I will provide a photo of what my modded northbridge part looked like before I reversed that part of the mod, but the guide will be written as if you are just modding the GPU.

3) Remove the thermal pad that makes contact with the GPU. Clean the GPU, CPU, and CPU/GPU parts of the heatsink with isopropyl alcohol.

Cleaned GPU


Cleaned CPU


Cleaned Cooling Assembly

4) Apply thermal paste (I used Arctic Silver 5, you can use whatever you want) to the CPU and GPU core. Also apply it where the thermal pad for the graphics card used to be. A general amount guideline is ½ of the size of an uncooked grain of rice, but always consider your manufacturer’s instructions. If you will apply too much, the compound will not be effective. If you apply too little (it IS possible to do this, BTW), the mod will be counterproductive. Spread it with a flat, clean surface, like a cleaned credit card. I used a lab spatula. Try to get it as even as absolutely possible.

This is how much I applied. One might say that this is too much, but it is better to be safe than sorry, if the copper doesn't make contact with the assembly at all. I recommend using this much - my temps are very good. (yes, this CPU is different than the one I took out. this is the X9100 going in).


CPU With Thermal Compound


GPU With Thermal Compound


Cooling Assembly With Thermal Compound

5) Place a copper sheet on the GPU die. As opposed to the M1330 mod, you’ll want as thin a sheet as possible – ideally about 0.8mm thick. I ordered mine from onlinemetals.com, as a C101 grade 0.81mm thick sheet at 0.55”x0.55”, or 1.34cmx1.34cm.

GPU With Copper Sheet


This is what the Northbridge area would look like if you were modding the Northbridge. IF YOU ARE NOT, THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO YOU. Basically, because there are no screws to hold it down on that end, you must apply a small portion of the original cooling pad (I cut it) so the assembly rests on a good angle. Make sure you apply compound LIBERALLY on the Northbridge, about 1.5 to 2 times the normal, because the assembly is still on an angle If you don't, one part of the copper will make contact with the northbridge, but the other won't, so the mod would be counterproductive. You'll understand if you try this and look at it.

6) Replace the thermal cooling assembly, tightening the screws in reverse order. Do not forget to plug the fan in.

7) Turn on your system. Make your temperatures are under control before trying to do anything intensive. I’ve almost fried a system before because I forgot to plug the fan in once, and because the cooling assembly wasn’t on quite right another time. You can’t be too careful.

8) Depending on your thermal paste of choice, you will need to cure it for 0-250 hours. That means to just run normal thermal cycles on it – on/off, and so on. Just use it normally. Hopefully, you will be seeing reduced temperatures!



----------------

I hope this guide was useful . Big thanks to the following users and company for their knowledge, pictures, and/or guides:
GoodBytes
akwit
John Ratsey
flipfire
sinstoic
Dell

If I forgot to mention you, please PM me, and I’ll update accordingly. If I have any factual inaccuracies or ways to make this guide better, also please PM me or post something here so I can fix it.

 

Wrong. He did say that, but afterwards mentioned he was still having problems. By the way, I had my motherboard and heatsink replaced, and still have problems. I am also going to ask for a new machine.

More on topic: great guide, thanks for the effort!

 

Removed that. Guess I should have went back to the post...

 

Thanks for the guide. The online metal company is right down the road from where I work and they have will call. Looks like I can save some $ on shipping!

 

In akwits thread its mentioned that it could be just because the heatsink was reseated...

I must say its a very well written guide, thanks "weirdo".
I am very interested about the results from those of you that have tried the mod. Please report in... I am a bit careful and havent tried it yet, because of the warranty void. (But I have read somewhere that it actually could be ok, warranywise, to reseat the heatsink by youself.)

 

I edited the akwit part out a little while ago. I seems that replacements from Dell have mixed effectiveness. HerrKaputt had his cooling assembly replaced and I think the problem wasn't fixed.

I posted this in another thread, talking about the effectiveness of the copper mod. I doubt reseating the heatsink will do anything unless it was badly put on in the first place, considering it will just break the seal of the CPU thermal paste, so it may end up increasing temps.

 

Yep. Since then my problem was "escalated" and I haven't heard from them in a week. I've been busy anyway, but tomorrow I will call them and see what they come up with.

 

I have also read about HerrKaputt but akwit has in his thread more positive experiences: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=366126&highlight=cooling

I have discovered that i sometime hits over 100c when gaming, so im figuring if its worth to report it or if i have to fix it myself...

 

Hitting over 100C is definitely a sign that something is wrong. I don't know why, but my initial temps, out of the box, topped out at 91C. So I guess either you do have this problem or you don't.

I'd still be curious to know what's wrong - I don't think we have a consensus yet. I just found out a few days ago that Dell has started using the Nvidia heatsinks also on systems that are Intel based (as well as Nvidia ones), so maybe there really is a big problem. But I haven't heard of a new part for Nvidia ones. Since I don't know the exact problem, I can't give an exact solution - just the general ones I listed here.

 

I took the plunge and performed the mod last night. It lowered my idle temps a considerable amount. Not sure if it was all a result of the mod or if it was a combination of that and reseating the heatsink. I used arctic silver 5.

Ambient Temps approximately 20C
Before Copper Mod/Stock

Nvidia 160M
Idle (Zalman NC-1000): 66C - Pretty high to begin with!

When running 3DMark06 my gpu temp would jump to the low 80C's at stock settings. Overclocked (785/480/1550) it maxed at 96C during the test.

After Copper Mod

Nvidia 160M
Idle (Zalman NC-1000): 42C

I haven't done many tests under load yet but will report back when I do more. So far it appears to be keeping the temps down as expected.