**Official Clevo W350ETQ / Sager NP6350 Owner's Lounge**

So tracking says my laptop comes in a few days. I want to install the second hard drive soon and was wondering if I will need anything else besides the drive itself. Will I need some sort of caddy? Screws, etc? Or is it just plug and play? Any additional setup required after installation? This will be the first hard drive I install in a laptop (have done several desktops and PS3's) so any help would be appreciated.

 

You will have everything you need to install the 2nd HD. There is a plastic bag of sorts that you will see in the box that will have the screws and such for this.

This comes standard with all of the models having 2 hard drive bays...

--

 

Hah, similar and yet different question - I ordered a clevo with optical bay caddy instead of dvd. And, the laptop arrived today .. and .. I have no clue how to open the caddy.

The funny thing is that it says ' DVD Multi Something ' on the caddy, there's even a light and a button. All in all, it look like normal DVD, just not working (cannot open it). Tried pushing paper clip into the 'usual hole' - did not help.
Wth?

 

The bezel will be reused so it'll look like the ODD drive is still present in the system but you'll actually need to open the system up to install a drive into the caddy itself.

 

Funny because I was actually going to email you that exact same question if I didn't get a timely response. As usual Larry you come through like clockwork!

I was shopping for the second hard drive and wasn't sure if I needed to factor in any additional parts. XoticPC's excellent and informative you tube video of the 17" NP6370 showed the inside of the laptop without the caddy, and it was unclear whether it was included. So that is great news. I am still undecided as to whether I should go with a conventional HDD, or spring for a second SSD.

 

If all you're going to be using that second drive for is storage, you might as well stick with a mechanical drive. The SSD will definitely have the faster read/write, but you'll only see that when copying/pasting files. In real world usage, you're likely not going to notice a slower drive for accessing files.

 

Thanks, I decided to take your advise and I grabbed a WD Caviar Black 750GB 7200rpm drive today. It should come right before my laptop arrives. Initially I had planned to wait to purchase the second drive. But after learning a bit more about SSDs I would rather limit my primary to OS, programs, and maybe a few games. I would rather not fill the SSD to near capacity and then have to copy and reorganize my entire setup down the road. My initial concern was that a conventional HD wouldnt help cooling issues, but that shouldnt be an issue.

As usual thanks for the input and for taking the time to help. Now I shouldnt have to worry about storage space for a while and wont take a hit in performance.

 

Hah, I came to the same conclusion yesterday, managed to push the caddy out by ~ 1 cm and then .. it stopped :] I was really afraid to push it any harded - I've scratched/bended the metalic thing at the 'push here' place. Well, will try again today, harder

Btw, did any of you had any weird Windows 8 issues? My laptop came with 'demo?' version of Windows 7, everything seemed to be working fine. But, I installed my own Windows 8 and it's not so perfect any more
I tried to follow the driver-cd order of drivers, but installing updated versions from the internet. And now the iGPU/dGPU button does not work, the 'hot key' Clevo app says 'system needs another restart, check if all drivers are installed', I have no sound ( apparently some BIOS issue? ) - not so nice at all :]

I might end up staying just on pure Windows 8 drivers - seemed to be working fine / without issues ...

 

Fan issue:
The other day the fan started to get on & off every few seconds. After resetting it, that stopped but now it's always at full throttle.
The only thing I could do to stop it was by using FN+1 but that's not a nice solution as it either gets too noise or hot. The temperature readings seem to be fine.

Any help?

 

Hey I own a sager np630 and i was wondering what settings i should use on throttlestop. Also i was wondering if there are any vbios mods for the 660m that are compatible with this computer. I know that PREMA has a mod but it is not compatible with my bios and it doesnt increase the voltage of the card either. I know that this will bring extra heat to my lappy but im keeping it cool dont worry (76c MAX on GPU and CPU). Also if anyone has benchmarks just to copmare to taht would be awesome

Thanks,
Joel

 

For Throttlestop, just set the multiplier to turbo, and because of how it works you can keep it on constantly, which is what I do with it.

 

My NP6350 came today, although I had to track the UPS guy down in my neighborhood because he came when I had stepped out for moment. I wasn't about to wait another day! I installed my secondary HDD without a hitch but I wanted to move the users directory to the new drive. Is there an efficient way to do this without disturbing system files, or programs that use those folders? I have done a few google searches but it seems that everyone has a different way of doing it. Any suggestions or links would be appreciated!!

Awesome computer BTW. I couldn't be happier. I opted for the standard HD glossy screen and it blows away my "full HD" Sony Vaio's screen. I am not a huge fan of matte screens. Anyways I am still doing the basic setup of my new laptop, so I haven't had a chance to stretch her legs. I will report back after I have broken it in.

 

I figured out how to move User's and all of their folders and files to the secondary HDD. It was just a matter of getting used to Windows 7. I have never had a computer with one HD set up for OS and the other for storage. I am trying to keep the OS system drive free of clutter.

I had to figure out optimus settings. I first thought that green meant that the nvidia card was active, but I soon found out I was wrong. I suppose it makes sense that green indicates power saving. Is there a real benefit to remove the battery while gaming and plugged into the power adaptor?

 

Does anyone else seem to have an issue with the one USB 2.0 port on the left side? I tried uninstalling and reinstalling drivers, even going in to safe mode to do it, but still no data connection. I get power through it, so I think it's a driver issue, and the company I purchased if from (Eurocom) doesn't have the drivers for it listed on their website. Any suggestions?

 

I havent used it yet, but Ill give it a try to see if there are any problems. I typically use the left 3 USB 3 ports, and almost never use more than 2 at a time. Ill try my USB mouse when I get a chance.

UPDATE: So I just tried connecting my USB mouse and it installed the drivers and worked perfectly. One thing I noticed is that the computer is intent on installing a device's driver for each different port you use. I suppose that isn't an issue, but it is just a bit strange IMO. Well, now my USB mouse is good to go in every port on my computer! LOL I am not sure what issue would be causing that problem. Have you tried different devices? Or only one specific device? Do you really need the USB 2.0 port? I only ask because it might not be worth it to send your computer in for repair, or worse a total re haul. I would contact your re-seller and see what they suggest...

 

Well hey, would you look at that, just plugged my mouse in and it installed the drivers and it works now. Strange beast, this is. Anyway, thank you for your help, it must have been clearing the drivers in safe mode for the 4th time that finally made windows wake up and do something. Now the only thing I have to do is find out why my heatpipes wont stay down. I'm sure it's not that big of an issue, but it makes the fan grille inside the vent just a few degrees off, which kind of drives me nuts. Either way, thanks for your help, I'm glad this place is here as pretty much no one else in the world knows about this laptop.

 

So true, before I bought this model I took the lack of general knowledge into consideration. I almost sprung for the NP9000 series, because it seems like a more popular or common model amongst gamers. I decided to stick with this system because of it's thinner and more portable build. I didn't need the extra GPU power, as I only use it periodically for lower end games.

This is really the only thread where you can find other owners, knowledgeable re-sellers, or folks who are familiar with this model. So far I haven't had any major issues besides a single failed update yesterday.

 

Hi everybody, in some reviews I read about some issue:
- high temperature
- fragile back screen
- lower contrast of the display respect to the W370ET
Did you find out these problems too? Can these problems justify to buy a W370et instead of the W350et?

 

Yeah seems okay, especially with stock paste 88 is normal

 

After minimal gaming (mostly testing) I can say that this computer doesn't get very warm at all. Although I am using a SSD for my primary, and opted for the higher grade thermal paste, so that could effect my experience. It seems to cool efficiently and it isn't hot to the touch anywhere after being under load. The edges of the screen are very sturdy and solid, and the hinges are high quality compared to other laptops out there. The bottom center of the screen does have some flex to it and lacks the reinforcement that the rest of the screen has, although it is a part of the screen that you will never really touch. I close my lid using the edges, and as stated above they are plenty sturdy. My screen is the standard (non upgraded) full HD glossy and it provides a stunning picture. The blacks are very dark, even while at higher brightness settings. I compared the W350ETQ's screen to my Sony Vaio's "full HD" screen and it is isn't even close. The W350 easily blows it away. I can't comment on the matte screens or any of the other screen upgrades. Next to my 23" LCD monitor it still has more accurate color, and better contrast. I actually had to adjust and calibrate my monitor last night in an effort to get it closer to the laptop's colors.

I cant speak for the W370's display, but I really like the size, weight, and portability of the W350. But I guess that is a personal preference and depends on how you plan to use it. I was considering the NP9130 before buying this model, but the lower profile and weight of the W350 weighed heavily in my final decision.

 

I noticed quite a bit of screen flex on the back myself, coming from an Asus N61JQ, put some extra padding in my bag, just because I was nervous about it. It also seems like the USB port I've mentioned a few times is touchy, sometimes working, but not always, so that's something to keep in mind. It seems like after a cold boot it works, but then it gets fiddly, so I'm still thinking drivers.

 

When I buy a computer or smartphone build quality, durability, and function (weight and layout) are right up there with specs and performance. I stayed away from the MSIs slim counterpart (GE60 I believe) for this reason. The minor flex in the bottom of screen would definitely not be a deal breaker for me, because the rest of the rig is well built. I don't beat my laptops or electronics up, but I like to know they are durable. My laptop doesn't leave my home very often, but I like to move it around from room to room, and even take it outside with me frequently. This model is no Panasonic toughbook, but it has great build quality, and doesn't weigh too much either. Speaking of which this model has great balance and feel to it, and is easy to carry around open or closed.

Aandrewaa, I know it is tough because you can't hold or even see many of these computers before you buy them. It's not like you can go to your nearest Best Buy or Staples and give em a look. I had to judge the build quality from posts here, the lone you tube video reviewing this computer (the 17" W370ET), and overall reputation of Sager/Clevo machines. I would say buy it with confidence. As far as the difference between this model and the W370ET I would stick with this model if you plan to take it mobile. If you are looking for a desktop replacement maybe the larger W370 would be a better choice. I just hook mine up to a monitor when I need a larger picture, although the laptops screen is superior.

Correction: There is a new You Tube video featuring both the W350ETQ and the W370ET in a side by side comparison.

 

Having read the text review under the YT movie I started to have doubts about my w350etq. I bought one 4 days ago and am still waiting for it. Are differences between 350 and 370 so obvious? According to the review w350 is made with worse materials and is not so durable as w370. Is this true or the reviewer had a bad luck with testing theese models ?

 

Well i cannot confirm this.
Perhaps w370 is a bit better. I have never seen it live. But it is also much bigger.
And w350 is a really great notebook. there is no other which has same performance in this size with 2 hdd slots. And the built quality is great.
For me it is better as lenovo ideapad y570, y580 and better as MSI or my Asus Notebook before.
I have no problem with it. And with an SSD it is really great, no heat problems and it is really quiet.
So no idea why people say built quality could be better. Okay it is no Alu or Magnesium or Carbon but such materials are more expensive and no notebook with such power uses this materials.

 

If you go back a few pages in this thread you'll see I posted a similar question while I was waiting for mine. After reading the translated German review at Notebookcheck I was a little concerned. Mind you that was before I got my hands on it. Once it arrived I was pleasantly surprised that it is built very well, similar to a Lenovo if that gives you an idea. I suppose the measure of durability/quality depends totally on what you are comparing it to.

From an engineering (and marketing) point of view I believe this laptop was designed to be a relatively slim and light gaming laptop. I conclude this mainly because of where it falls in their product line. So it would make sense that the larger and less portable 17" version might be a bit stronger, seeing that overall weight isn't as much of a concern to the buyer. I opted for the more mobile of the two and I don't regret it. There is no doubt that this model will stand the test of time and hold up to everyday wear and tear. With that being said I wouldn't bring it on a safari or camping, but it will withstand normal gaming and work usage. I have a 16 month old child and he won't be playing with it anytime soon, that is what my old laptop is for...

 

Hi guys, I was thinking to install X Mountain Lion on the W350et: someone tried that already? Do you know if is it possible/compatible?

 

From what I gather you could, but the OS won't like the Nvidia graphics card. It might envolve lots of tweaking and hacking to get it to run smoothly. Read this thread (if you haven't already) and decide if it is the right choice. There seems to be at least a handful of other members who have accomplished the feat, so also try asking them directly for tips or their experiences.

 

Thank'u for the suggestion. In any case I'll try to install it, and I'll let you know.

 

I just received my w350et a few days ago and so far its performing like a champ. Far better than my silly m14x ever did. I have noticed though, that after updating to the newest Intel/Nvidia drivers that my Windows Experience Index has dropped quite a bit. Now, I know that the WEI is not a benchmark, or anything to weight true performance against, I am just curious if the same has happened to other w350et's as well. I am mainly concerned about the "Graphics" section score. Using release drivers from clevo this notebook scored a 7.0 in both graphic sections. After updating both graphics drivers the aero score has dropped to 5.7, but the gaming score has risen to 7.1. Is this an isolated incident, or is this common across all w350's/clevos? I appreciate the feedback.

 

Well you seem up to the challenge. I was reading that it installs easy in Sager/Clevo models that don't have Nvidia cards or Optimus. So the owners who were able to get it work with the least amount of fiddling or tweaking were ones who owned models with ATI cards. It's not to say that it won't work for you, but it may have been the path of least resistance.

Wow, the same thing happened to me, although I didn't think too much of it. I haven't noticed any change in performance, but the score has gone down a bit since I upgraded the Nvidia driver, and only in the Graphics field. I was reading that the Graphics score (not the 3d Graphics) is based off of "general desktop work", so I imagine that score has more to do with the Intel Graphics and not the Nvidia GPU. I also came across this thread which had a solution to the problem. One user suggested;

And another that;

I wouldn't put too much stock in the drop in score, unless you experience an actual drop in performance. I personally haven't so I am not concerned about it. My primary concern is that everything works well and is reliable.

 

i have this:
Prozessor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3612QM CPU @ 2.10GHz 7,4
Arbeitsspeicher (RAM) 8,00 GB 7,4
Grafik Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000 5,2
Grafik (Spiele) 1696 MB insgesamt verfügbarer Grafikspeicher 7,1
Primäre Festplatte 148GB frei (238GB gesamt) 7,9

 

Hi guys,

I just bought a fancy 2560x1440 resolution monitor. I was my understanding that HDMI would work fine for the display, so long as the version was 1.4a so it could support that level of bandwidth. This laptop is HDMI 1.4a, but the max resolution I can select is 1920x1200. I tried manually adding a resolution, and the Intel graphics center thing said that resolution exceeds the maximum bandwidth.

Has anyone gotten a high resolution display like 2560x1440 to work with this laptop?
Could it be an issue with the Intel HD4000 integrated graphics not supporting it but the GTX660m does? If so how do I force the laptop to only use the discreet graphics?

Any thoughts would be appreciated, I'm sort of depressed that I can't use my new monitor like it is intended...

-Taylor

 

Hey Taylor, I believe you need a dual DVI port to achieve that resolution. This model doesnt have that interface unfortunately. I know the NP9000 models do, although Im not sure if they all achieve that resolution. I think the highest you'll see is 1920x1200 with either HDMI or VGA connection.

You might be able to get an adapter for a USB 3.0 port that will support that resolution. That may be your best option to use the full potential of your monitor.

 

Thanks for the reply,

I did some poking around and it looks like 1920x1200 is the limit for the Ivy bridge graphics chipset. That being said, since I have a discreet graphics card, might that not apply?

 

This guy knows it. But it depends on what resolution and version your screen supports. A HDMI can possibly support higher resolution though.

 

I also did some poking around because I am eventually interested in upgrading my external 23" HP LCD monitor down the road. Check out this thread here on NotebookReview, it has some promising news.

Make sure you have a high quality HDMI cable first and foremost. Not all HDMI cables are created equal, and the ones capable of the fastest and highest data transfer are usually more expensive. Some cable manufacturers rate their cables for different outputs (I know Monster does, although their cables are grossly overpriced). Standard HDMI cables are fine for hooking up PS3's and Blu Ray players to your LED or LCD flatscreen TV, but what you are trying requires a beefy, high quality, cable. The shorter the better too, which will only make it a little less expensive for ya. I use a 2ft Blue (Advanced High Speed 6.68 Gbps) Monster HDMI cable to connect my laptop to my monitor, at a lower resolution of course. The Ultra High Speed (10.2 Gbps) and Ultimate High Speed (14.92 Gbps) cables are rated for up to 4K x 2K, so shoot for a cable like that. Not necessarily the Monster brand though, cause you'll pay close to $100. Here is a chart of the different speeds;



Aurum Ultra Series HDMI Cable

Some other users have reported marginal success (2560x1440 @50Hz) with a high quality HDMI cable by going into Intel Graphics properties and creating a custom resolution of 2560x1440, all colors, 55hz refresh, and GTF timing, and then saving. This info was posted by a Clevo W110ER owner, so it should work for us too. Here is the link to the forum discussion where this info was posted. It is the 7th post from the top, by Eddy415. So I hope this helps. I am curious to see if this works on our machines, please keep us posted....

 

Hey thanks for the info. I have this hdmi cable which should be fine, because it says it supports 4k. I tried messing with the custom resolution settings like people suggested, but it always says I exceed the maximum bandwidth. Any other suggestions?

 

Double post FTW.

So after messing with the setting enough I was able to get the laptop to output 2560x1440 @ 55hz over HDMI, or at least it stopped complaining about bandwidth. It didn't matter though, my monitor still wouldn't accept the input. It would always default to 1920x1200... so I don't know if the HDMI in on the monitor wont accept 2560x1440 or if its still an issue with the laptop... I have resigned myself to using VGA, which works fine ironically. It may not be as good as HDMI but I mainly got this monitor so to program on, so I guess it wont make a huge difference. I still want HDMI though.

 

To any of you who own this model and have heat concerns there is a quick and easy solution for a piece of mind. I wasnt having issues but I hate to have to take the battery out to game and put it back it etc. This machine places the battery wisely and in a location away from hot air flow, but I prefer to be cautious. So running furmark I noticed that if the laptop was raised 3/4 of an inch off the desk surface the internal temps dropped significantly (from 69-72C to 63-64C). So I built a wooden frame (or placemat) to lift the laptop up and improve airflow. This model has only one rear vent (outflow) and two intake vents on the bottom. If the laptop is set on a flat surface the two bottom intake vents are restricted. So you can prop it up with pretty much anything and see lower temps and more efficient and effective airflow and cooling.

Now I almost never hear the fan hit max while playing Shogun 2, even during battles. Before the fan was at full blast 100% of the time (during battles). So you can improve cooling and lower fan noise by doing as I mentioned. I know this isnt a new concept, but it applies particularly well to this model given the location of the airflow vents. Overall the laptop runs much cooler and quieter!

 

Have I missed a new technology? I was under the impression that aside from build quality (which may become an issue at very long lengths - like across large rooms) an HDMI cable is an HDMI cable and a higher quality cable will yield zero improvement in resolution/picture quality. This all assumes the HDMI cables being compared are of the same type (the latest being 1.4x). Is there even such a thing as ultra high speed HDMI? I thought there were only 2 categories - standard (Cat 1) and high speed (Cat 2).

 

Short time lurker here. My W350ETQ is on its way to me. Looks like a great machine. Can't wait.

 

You're correct, with HDMI you have a digital signal. Either you get all the signal or you get none. I usually shop cables at monoprice.com as they have great prices. Here is a decent article on the subject from Cnet.

 

Congrats on your new machine. I have had mine for a few weeks and absolutely love it. As Derek also pointed out, you are correct, and there are many myths about HDMI quality and value. Monster brand certainly wants you to believe that a more expensive cable will yield a better picture, and they will charge you 500% more than you should pay for it. Luckily I bought my only 2' HDMI Monster cable from a bargain bin in Radio Shack for something like $18 several years ago. All of my other cables (for my PS3's and HDTVs) are generic like in the link, and were purchased from Amazon. When it comes to connecting your HDTV then pretty much all HDMI cables are created equally. But achieving ultra high resolutions require a cable that is at least 1.3 or even better 1.4 compatible. I just wanted to make sure he was using a higher quality cable and not an older $3 Ebay cable. But anyways the cable obviously isn't the issue so we can scratch that off the troubleshooting list.

 

Yes their behaviour is really bad.

 

Someone knows how much the temperature goes down after changing the thermal paste?

 

Not sure what the temps are with stock thermal paste, but I can tell you the GPU temps with IC Diamond installed. Using furmark at full resolution burn in test the GPU registered an average temp of 69-72C. Dont know if you saw a post of mine on the last page , but I lowered this temp to 64C by raising the laptop off the desk surface about 3/4 of an inch using a small wooden frame. You dont need laptop cooling pads with built in fans, you just have to allow for better airflow through the two bottom grilles. The cooling fan is useless if it cant draw enough air. Even propping up just the rear of the laptop would be enough to lower internal temps several degrees.

 

The temperature changing will depend on the environment, specific CPU, original pasting job, new pasting job and new paste material.

 

We generally see a difference of 4-7 degrees celsius with the addition of IC Diamond when compared to a good stock pasting but as Meaker said results will vary depending on many factors.

 

sorry if already covered. How is everybody's mouse buttons? My right button feels and works great. Nice solid click. The left is dreadful. Really have to hit the sweet spot and press down hard. Normal? Thanks.

 

no difference for me. both work the same and great.