*** Official Clevo W230SS/Sager NP7338 Owner's Lounge ***

Those temps do seem kinda high for basic tasks. Over time as you have a computer you of course install new programs. You may have programs running in the background you dont realize are which are causing the CPU to work more. You should check out your process's to see if there are any.

 

I did not notice any vibrations. Only those clicking sounds like an old rusty HDD. I am glad they are gone now.
But you could try it to see if it helps you too. Just stick a little magnet on the fan but fix it with double sided tape. I took a tiny but strong magnet of a name plate. 7mm x 2,7 mm and assigned it centered.

 

Alright guys, a visit to my reseller seems to have solved my thermal issues. They replaced both the heatsink and did a repaste (IC Diamond). I'm now idling at aorund 48-50 degrees Celsius, and running the XTU CPU stress tests cause it to ramp up to 60 degrees at the most, with a -70 mV undervolt and multipliers set to 27,28,29,30. Hopefully I don't get such high temps again. I love seeing that 60; after 95 it feels very cool.

 

I don't have many programs running in the background- I'm careful with this.

It's beginning to be unbearable. It has only started happening the last couple days too. I'll give it a clean out tomorrow (in case of dust) otherwise it could be a heatsink/thermal paste issue I'd imagine...

 

Well, I just had problem with thermals recently- cpu temperature reached 100degrees in CS:GO and other games. An hour ago i replaced stock thermal pase [which should have been ic diamond according to my order- I PAID FOR it 35$ ....]. I used 2 years old scraps of mx4 thermal paste and know temps are 10-12 degrees lower WITHOUT throtling . Conclusion: Its not worth it to pay additional 35 usd for thermal paste because apparently- they dont apply that extra paste or they do it wrong/ use not enough of it and it does not impact notebook temperatures. Imho you should get new paste for your cpu and gpu.

 

Hi!
So my laptop in repair now but im wondering what kind of error im getting.
When I boot it up to bios or before OS , It start beeping and the fan goes to max while all three lights are blinking.
While in windows it doesnt make a sound and works fine
but it wont let me install linux without crashing and shuting down the PC ( tried 5 diffrent distros ).
I've updated the bios and even cleared cmos but that didnt help

 

Has anybody tried a native Windows 10 TP install on this model yet? Are all necessary drivers available?

 

I hope we have drivers for Win 10 some how

 

If cleaning doesn't help then a repaste would be your next step as you have mentioned. You can also try elevating the back a little by using bottle caps on each end to try to get better air flow. Let us know how things turn out.

 

Lol, already? Calm down. I strongly suggest not risking installing such an early developer preview on this notebook if it's your main computer. Drivers likely won't be ready for at least another month or so. If you do want to install despite this, then I suggest using a different drive altogether, and not just a different partition.

 

ICD goes for $20 on eBay, just get a tube and diy.

 

Does anyone know if it's possible to do dual external monitors using the HDMI and VGA ports at the same time?

 

That sounds much better. Glad you got it sorted out. :thumbsup:

 

Yah that should be no problem.

 

A new EC firmware on mySN.de is available

http://www.mysn.de/secure/userarea/...QXMGQQXMG_P304QQBIOSQQXMG_P304_EC_1.03.02.zip

Compatible with Prema Bios???

 

That's not new at all and already part of the Mod since June.

 

Ok ! thanks for your help ;-)

 

The internal panel will shut off but yes you can.

 

I can use all three displays at the same time, both on Linux and Windows.

 

Ah it seems to have changed now to needing only one displayport monitor instead of two (and the internal eDP counts), that's cool

 

does anyone know the actual screen size width and length in cm? ( exclude the grey border)
ty

 

Whoever posted the 'stick a magnet to the fan' tip, thanks a lot!
My laptop also had the'clicky fan syndrome' :thumbsup:
@above, the screen itself measures 29.3 x 16.5 cm, or 11.5"x 6.5"
You could've used wikipedia too

 

A^2 + B^2 = C^2

That old formula works too

However if you question was meaning if 13.3" refers to the screen or the dimensions of the lid, it's of the screen itself, the machine actually measures more than that by a bit.

 

But for that formula you'll need more than just C

 

Who had put decal on their notebook, installed by the manufacturer?

Has anyone had the issue with the main chassis? Dust and other particles are being trapped between the main laptop and screen, and when I close the notebook, these bits and peaces that are trapped are scratching the surface and the marks are left behind. I wonder whether I should get the decal now or just live with a scratched up notebook?

Thoughts?

 

Thanks very much for replies te-x and Meaker!

 

Not really. We've got the ratio of the length to the height of the screen (16:9), so the length of the hypotenuse will be enough.

 

I reckon the decal is worth it, the rubber finish is nice but not very hard wearing.

 

Did you decal your entire notebook, or just some portions of it?

Does the decal look like its peeling off over time or it sticks on well?

I only had my notebook for under two months and the silver paint is already started scratching away...

 

Quick check mine is 11.75" wide x just over 6.5" high ..or 29.5cm x 16.5cm ..that's the viewable screen basically, not the bevel.

 

thanks a lot!!
btw, what resolution do you use? is it 1360 *768? or 1366*768?
I know the resolution is 1920x1080, but I am confused why such a small screen can use this big resolution..

 

The smaller the screen, the sharper the image
1920x1080 is quote workable on windows, even without scaling. Anything higher will become too small to read I think...

 

Depends on the eye and distance from the screen. I'd go 1080p myself but as scaling improves it will make it sharper on higher res screens.

 

Yup, 1920x1080. No problems viewing, although I wouldn't want to go any higher on this screen.. and I have a 27" desktop monitor lol.

 

So, I've come across a new problem. I was running Skyrim a while ago, and got a constant 60 FPS even with 4K texture mods. I quit it to surf the Web for a while, and then relauched Skyrim after a while. Lo and behold, I get single digit framerates. I launched Nvidia Inspector to check out the problem, and it appears that even when the GPU is running at 99% load, it seems to be clocked at 405 MHz. I need to do a restart to fix this. Shouldn't the GPU ramp up to near-maximum clocks whenever it's required? Why is mine being limited?

 

It's acting as if in Power Saving or Battery Mode. Make sure high Performance Profile is selected under Clevos Hot Key App.
Also pull the AC Adapter and plug it back in to reset EC readings to BIOS.

 

Hi,

long time lurker, first time poster here...

Has anyone experienced any coil whine on the W230SS yet?

I am already on my 2nd unit, which has coil whine (first one was already replaced for this problem).
It only happens unplugged, in absolute idle (e.g. scrolling in Chrome eliminates the whine) and you can hear a very high pitched, buzzing noise. It seems not everybody is capable of hearing this from far away, but everyone I asked was able to hear it clearly when holding the notebook close to the ear. I am pretty sure the whine is caused by the mainboard itself as I have already tested the other components (RAM, HDD, SSD and HSDPA-card), but they seem to have no influence on the whine.

I have tried several things to reduce and eliminate the coil whine (Over/Undervolt in XTU, playing with Prema Mod ...), but the only thing that eliminated the coil whine was to limit the CPU package (not CPU itself) to C3 state in BIOS. Any higher states cause the whine. So far so good, but this option eats of course more battery (about 1h less 5-->4h full run time / 10W/h vs. 6-8W/h).

Is anyone experiencing the same? Has anyone a clue how to solve this issue, without disabling power saving C6/C7 states for the package?

 

I've checked all the settings, everything is normal. It's odd. A few nights ago, I woke up in the middle of the night and before I went back to bed I heard the laptop fan spinning up for about 2 seconds, then it went off. The power LED was flashing too, so it was on sleep. And it's not like windows turns itself on in the middle of the night to update (does it?). I'm still having significant power drops overnight when it's on sleep.

On an unrelated note does anybody know how I can disable the charm gestures on Windows 8? The options aren't there in the synaptics mouse settings. I've tried uninstalling the drivers and getting the drivers directly from their website but those ones fail to install. I've also tried the registry trick. No luck. It's incredibly annoying

 

I've tried that, both don't work. Only a restart fixes the low clock speed issue. Any other suggestions?

 

Is anybody using the latest hotkey Software from clevo.com.tw?
Hotkey AP (2.34.49) for Windows 8.1 64-bit version.
Whats the different to the previous version?

 

Yes, install Windows 7

 

You could buy startisback. Great little program, and only a few bucks

 

Right so I have a question and a contribution:

1) Is the Clevo Hotkey app necessary? I've seen that all it does is basically construct profiles that change the fan speed, what the power button does and the power plan.

Now, all of these settings are already configured under Windows (i.e High Performance power plan) and as for the fan speed - I always have it on auto anyway.

So really, is there something I'm missing, or am I just better off using (and customizing) the Windows power plans, as opposed to using the Hotkey App?

And now for the contribution:

I have a Kingstong mSATA ssdNow 120GB and installing HD Tune I noticed (also in SpeedFan) that even in idle, this SSD stayed in the mid-50's... which was way too hot. It is literally the hottest component of my laptop at all times, except when gaming (then the CPU and GPU are).

So... I poked around and it turns out it doesn't have to be.

What I did was:

Uninstall Intel Rapid Storage technology (Windows has its own driver, I'd rather go with that).

Then basically go into the registry, modify a key which gives me another option inside the power plan modifications which lets me set DIPM + HIPM for the AHCI state. What this means is that Windows now decouples the HDDs from one another and lets em go into a power-save state.

Needles to say, not only my SSD is now 5 to 10 celsius cooler, but the entire laptop temperature, on average, went down by 3-4 Celsius. It's a big Win, and it literally took me 2 minutes.

There were no performance issues as far as I could tell.

My HD Tune reported the same R/W speeds as before, nothing runs slower. This is only a power-save feature that you are changing which only kicks in when the computer is not required to use the drive THAT much (say, when web browsing, or chatting, etc..).

Here are the steps:

1. Run Registry Editor as Administrator (type "regedit" in the search field or Windows 8 tile menu or the Start Menu, right click, and run as Administrator).

2. Navigate to "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Power\PowerSettings\0012ee47-9041-4b5d-9b77-535fba8b1442\0b2d69d7-a2a1-449c-9680-f91c70521c60".

3. Change value (double click the actual word Attributes and under value change to 2, press ok and exit regedit, no save needed) "Attributes" to 2. At this step you won't have modified ANY functionality in Windows (except for a tiny detail in the power management USER interface), so it's 100% safe.

4. Reboot.

5. Now go to "Power Management" in Control Panel (right click the battery icon in the bottom right as an alternative and access it from there) and click "Change plan settings" of your power plan, then click "Change advanced power settings".

6. Expand the "Hard Disk" settings tree. You'll see that now there is and ADDITIONAL setting: "AHCI Link Power Management - HIPM/DIPM". Expand this one.

7. Change this to DIPM + HIPM and save. You should start seeing the temperatures (if you were suffering like me from higher temps) drop slowly. No reboot needed.

To see if you actually did anything and if it works, install HD Tune BEFORE doing anything and check what's your temperature after 1 minute of idle and then re-check with the same timespan after you did the modification.


By the way, this should work on ANY mSATA or SATA SSD - only requirement is:

1) For them to be SATA and AHCI
2) For Windows to be installed as AHCI (meaning, before installing Windows, going to BIOS and enabling AHCI)

This whole thing is actually taken from the Crucial forums, here: m500 msata high temperatures 70C - Crucial Community

 

like written here and here

:hi2:

for me it also works with Intel in Raid Mode (RST)

 

The only thing Clevo hotkey app does for me is to save my keyboard setup preferences after login into Windows (eg. backlit keyboard off, touchpad disabled etc.). Otherwise I don't find it really helpful, so I rarely install it.

 

Quick question: Does Intel XTU save your settings, even while it's not running (that is, after a reboot)?

 

ClassicShell which is free lets you disable charms. It one was of the first things I did.

 

Yes it should, though sometimes if a restart is not quite right it will reset.

 

Right, new problem. I was playing Skyrim just fine (60 FPS even with 4K texture mods), until it hanged. I force-closed it and shutdown my notebook for lunch. Restarted, and I realised that the Nvidia GPU wasn't showing up in Device Manager. I hadn't changed any BIOS settings. Just to make sure, I popped over to the BIOS to see if my dGPU was enabled -- it was. Now every game (except Minecraft) runs as slow as a slideshow. What's up?

EDIT: tried reinstalling Nvidia drivers. The driver installer says 'No compatible hardware found'.

EDIT 2: Solved problem by re-flashing Prema's BIOS v1.1 again. Might have been an EC or vBIOS screw-up.

 

Well, re-activate it?