Official Clevo PC50DD2 / DF1 / DN2 Owner's Lounge

Thank you! Looks quite good I must say. The separate buttons for the touchpad are very nice, I hate loose, noisy clickpads. Might go for the RTX 2060 model myself.

 

Just got myself Obsidian Fan Control, I have kept with the Manual Mode with default fan settings and it seems to be working well. As for ThrottleStop, could I get a screen grab on your settings? E.g. Disable Turbo, SpeedStep, etc...

I have kept undervolting to -0.75mV.

 

Will do when back from holiday.

Disable PL2 in Throttlestop and raise PL1 to get a good balance between power and temps

 

@gooface @BrightSmith @Lzealot @Hunkitunk

I am really interested in purchasing the RTX 2060 option of this Clevo.

If i might ask, how is the fan noise in idle, office, websurfing, youtube etc? I have read the whole thread and @BrightSmith managed to keep the fans completely silent, splendid to know, that this is possible!

How is the fan noise situation for the other owners?

I am also curious whether the Obsidian Tools work properly even if you did not buy this laptop directly from their store but from bestware, pc specialist etc?!

Undervolting the Intel 10th generation is now possible with Throttlestop or are there still some issues?

I apologize for all these questions but so far this is the only thread dealing with this laptop since there are no other reviews out yet

 

The silent mode really is silent when doing light office tasks. The fan noise when gaming in performance mode is louder, but by no means unbearable. This from a guy who returned both the msi ge75 and gs66 due to fan noise.

I didn't try this as I am satisfied with the fan controls I got out of the box.

Undervolting worked for me out of the box with throttlestop, and I have a stable undervolt of - 80 on both cache and cores.

Np, hope my answers were of use.

 

You can undervolt with XTU or Throttlestop without problem with the current bios. If they release a new bios make sure it doesn't include plundervolt mitigations - or that there's still an option to bypass it.

 

@boogi

I have a different model laptop with similar specs and I caused some confusion when I posted here. Like you, I was looking for something to compare to since there was only one other laptop like mine when I purchased. I'd go with their impressions.

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@Hunkitunk First, thanks a lot for this elaborate response and yes, your answers are very much of use! Where did you get your laptop from? Since you are already satisfied with the fan controls the bios of this vendor seem to be pretty decent.

@BrightSmith Thanks for this hint with plundervolt. I reckon Bestware/XMG and Obsidian offer a bios where you can bypass the plundervolt issue. Do you/any one have any idea if PC Specialist also offer a custom bios? Going to ask them directly as well but would be nice hearing any info from impartial buyers and not the company itself.

@Lzealot Yes your all impressions increased my interest in this machine since it seems to be a pretty sophisticated device. Would be still cool to have an actual review of it.

@B0B I apologize to directly address my request to you because I guess you are pretty busy with your awesome reviews and answering a lot of other requests. But do you plan on testing this Clevo PC50DD2/DF1 oder DN2?

 

was quite surprise that the RTX 2070 Super wasn't offer in the NP8752F1.

is there any significant differences in term of FPS/performance between the Super vs Non Super ?

or should i just wait for RTX 3000 series instead which is schedule to launch at fall ?

 

Is anybody tested thunderbolt3 with egpu anykind with that laptop??

Wysłane z mojego Pixel 3 przy użyciu Tapatalka

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but it will be 2021 before the rtx 3000 will hit the mobile market

 

I got mine from multicom.no, its a norwegian reseller.

 

@boogi

I was tempted to contact notebook review and see if they were interested. It is a shame that these machines never get many mainstream reviews.

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Got my NP8752F1 today from SagerNotebook.com.

Pretty nice, I’m happy. Sager Notebook was a pleasure to deal with, super quick shipping from purchase date. Paid them last Friday (07/03/2020) and it arrived today, I wasn’t expecting that quick of a turnaround. Thought I’d have been waiting a couple weeks more. They were very amenable to a last minute change. I had a second thought on having them throw in an extra stick of memory, it was no problem.

Some observations on the computer...

Very sleek and stylish, really nice. Not nearly as bulky as my old 2013 NP9150. It will be much easier moving from my couch to my bed at night and I will no longer feel like I’m dragging an anchor. It will also be much easier to bring to work or on the road. That was my main focus this time around, slimming up my carry load.

The old power brick and ports work from my old Sager to the new, so the two power bricks I already own plugged in and are working perfectly.

The fit and feel are great, the top and bottom look sleek and high quality. Only problem I’m having so far is that it is a dust/crumb/fingerprint magnet, not more or less so than my old Sager. So this point is a wash for me.

Some minor trade offs for the sleekness, I’ve noticed far more keyboard flex than I was anticipating where there was little to none on my older laptop. Particularly in the middle. This is annoying, but something I’ll probably get used to and hardly notice in a couple months.

The sound is a little more tinny and anemic when compared to my NP9150, but this is not unexpected. I wasn’t anticipating an improvement in this area so this isn’t a gripe, just an observation. However, you’d just think at this point, laptop speakers would sound better than they do. My two year old iPhone sounds way better than my full size laptop and it has a runny dink speaker!

But I digress and none of the things I’m knocking take away from fact this is a great rig and I feel I’ll can get 5 years minimum out of this!

Pretty happy with my purchase.

 

The 8751F1 doesn't have the power needed to let you take advantage of the super. They're using the max-q 2070 instead. The 2070 super is 115W the 2070 max-q is 80W-90W

I have the 17" np8378f2 with the super. It uses a 230W power supply. If you take the different short term turbo power settings out if the picture by limiting my 10875h to 45w my machine draws about 190-200W total.

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@ferris209
Congrats on your purchase. Starting 4 years ago I bought MagicFiber cloths from amazon to use on my laptops. I cut them down to fit between the closed screen and the body. They're very thin. This keeps the screen from grinding on the body if you carry it in a backpack and makes for a great fingerprint remover after use when you pack up. You can grab em on Amazon for like $13. I do agree w you. These machine love fingerprints. I'm just glad they moved away from the soft rubber back that the screen had on the w230ss. It was a fingerprint magnet and didn't offer much protection to the thin display screen.

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i forgot to mention i'm referring to RTX 2070 Super Max-Q vs Non Super Max-Q.

not sure should i pull the plug by ordering it.

 

See if you can find the CPU/GPU temps on the models your looking at to compare. It's truly the important part. Good luck w your decision wattage on GPUs is a hard thing to find and will make a difference on how it performs.

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Signing up. My GPU from my P670RP6 is starting to fail after 4 years so I ordered the Sager NP8752D2 / Clevo PC50DD2 from LPC Digital with the RTX 2060. A bit worried with the smaller 15" chasis compared to my 17" but I picked up a cooling pad with fans to help out. On my 17" performance was best without fans but with elevation; these machines are great at cooling.

 

Does anyone know if the full Obsidian-PC Control Station App also works on none-obsidian laptops? Or do only fan control and the updater work on machines from other resellers?

 

Yes the full control station works. Have it on this one and my p775tm.

 

are you able to share some screenshot of the CPU-Z and GPU-Z of your unit ?

was wondering is your unit comes with 80W or 90W - RTX 2070 Max-Q ?

 

@BrightSmith

Ok thanks once again for your answer!
Since you were able to turn off the fans completely in word, internet and movie watching with thundervolt and obsidian fan control, which pre-built fan profile do you use or did you customize one by your own?

 

I got my variant today. I'm in Australia and I bought the Metabox variant (Prime-S PC50DF they call it). I got mine with the i7-10875 CPF, RTX 2070 Max-Q CPU, 32Gb 3200Mhz RAM, and a 1Tb Samsung 970 SSD, and a 4K IPS-like screen. Been setting it up all afternoon.
These are my impressions so far:
1) It's a fairly sleek machine, and really well built. It's approaching the build of laptops like the Razer Blade 15 now. I'm really happy with it.
2) Screen is great. Nice, bright and crisp.
3) Keyboard is excellent. I've been using the Surface Laptop 3, which has one of the best keyboards you can get on a laptop, and honestly this one isn't far off it. It's got good feel, and comfortable pressure. It's lacking a bit of tactile feel, but it's still really good.
4) The trackpad is smooth and responsive. A little small, but that's not a big deal with how responsive it is.
5) Fan noise is reasonable. It doesn't get overly loud, to be honest. I think my previous gaming laptops (Razer Blade 15 2019, Aorus 17) got fair bit louder, with the fans coming on far more often. Very happy with that.
6) The webcam is pathetic. No other way to describe it. It's truly disgusting that laptop makers still put such poor webcams on their laptops still.
7) The speakers are loud and sound OK. They don't sound the best, and aren't the clearest, but they are serviceable. Mine has come with Creative Sound Blaster Atlas software, and using it can make the speakers sound wider and bigger, so that's good. There are certainly laptops with much worse speakers out there.
8) Battery life is suspect, and I'm not sure why. It's set to the best battery code in Control Centre, Windows is set to best battery, and the screen is at 25%, but I'm still only getting 2-3 hours with only web browsing (in Edge Chromium) and Youtube via MyTube!. Hopefully I can work out what is going on, as 3 hours is really poor.
9) I've connected it up to my Dell WD19TB Dock. It would only detect the dock after I turned off Thunderbolt security, but once that was done it works perfectly. Sadly there is no charging over Thunderbolt 3, so it needs to be plugged into it's charger as well as the dock. That's a bit disappointing. I was kinda hoping for some charging using the dock, even if the laptop was in a low performance mode for it.

I'll hopefully get some game onto it tomorrow and see how it plays them. So far I'm pretty happy with the laptop.

 

Check your performance monitor. I had a memory leak that was causing a core to peg %. Traced it to Firefox add-on. That would surely make your battery go bye bye.

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Does the external HDMI display through the WD19TB dock work? Some of the docks require "Alt mode" through the USB C to use the display out. I'm not sure if this particular clevo model does that.

 

Thanks. I was monitoring Task manager when I was on battery and nothing was using a large amount of CPU or Memory. I'm just going through how Windows has been setup on this machine this morning, cleaning up a couple of things. Also making sure all my drivers from the likes of Intel are up to date. Hopefully will get to the bottom of what's going on, as I had a drain of 80% of battery in only 1 hour 40minutes. Even my old Aorus 17 with a similar battery size and no Intel Switchable Graphics (due to GSync) was getting much better battery life than this. Something is certainly odd here.

Yep, it all works perfectly. The version of the WD19 that I have (as there is multiple) is the Thunderbolt version and it works really well. I've only had it connected to 2 monitors (both 1440p monitors, running at 60Hz) one via the HDMI port, the other via the DisplayPort.

 

I've got a few questions for others with their Clevo pc50's already.
1) Are you able to enable Device Encryption in Windows at all. I know these have a TPM 2.0 chip in them, but I just can't get Windows to allow me to turn on Device Encryption.
2) How are your keyboards? Mine has the space bar being higher and mushier on the right hand side. I've also noticed considerable keyboard flex around the 'o' and '9' keys, and a metallic sound when pressing those keys. Really takes away from the typing experience.

I've logged the issues (including the really bad battery life) with Metabox and waiting for them to get back to. Just thought I would check with you guys what you are experiencing with these machines.

 

Concerning battery life: any programs waking dgpu? Afterburner for example

 

You can turn on the GPU activity icon in the control panel to be sure.

 

Nope, nothing is running and enabling the NVidia GPU. I just tried it again, 20 minutes on battery with only Microsoft Edge and the Mail application running and I lost 18% battery. NVidia GPU never activated in that time, all Apps in Task Manager report 'Very Low' power consumption over time. I did a wipe of Windows and a reinstalled yesterday, to see if that helps, and the same behaviour still occurs.

Still interested in knowing if anyone else can get Window Device Encryption working, and how peoples keyboards are.

 

My pc70 from pcs, the factory default single zone rgb keyboard, no the multi zone one, is very good (I come from a super fancy toshiba Mac like nb) . No flexing at all, key with a good feeling.
May I suggest that At the bottom of your notebook there are some screws that are marked with a keyboard sign check that screeks are well serrated ( but without exaggeration) while keeping in place the kb. May be if not impacting your warranty undonthe screws and redo them..

For battery life, light load , with the power saver preset of ccc and a mild undervolt, mine endured for 4+ hours (it was not a test but I forgot to plugin the power adaptor )

(pc70 1t evo plus rtx2060 32gb)

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I just ordered a Metabox PC50DC (GTX 1660Ti) for 3D cad work when on the road. The software I use mostly depends on CPU not GPU so I’m mostly interested in seeing how it the temps hold and how often I can use the full tvb. I’m updating from a 3 yo XPS15 so should be interesting.

 

Anyone have the PDF versions of the manual and/or service manual?

 

What are the exact BIOS flashing instructions?
Don't want to make any mistakes with it

 

Same. Mine comes Tuesday and I'm trying to get a list together of first things to do. BIOS flash, undervolting + different profiles, Obsidian download, etc.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I have taken a look at the screw and made sure it is tightly attached. Even removed and re-added them. No impact on the keyboard issues, however.

Here is the one Metabox has on their website for this model. It looks to be stock from Clevo, and has a bunch of UEFI options in there that I certainly don't have on mine.
https://downloads.metabox.com.au/usermanuals/PC50DF.pdf

One of the missing options is the Secure Boot options, which is what is stopping Windows Device Encryption working. I wonder if Metabox has stripped out the Secure Boot options from their UEFI, which is causing issues. Interested in hearing if other UEFI from other vendors have these options left in and working, and if Device Encryption is then working.

 

Does anyone have the 'Overclocking Performance Menu' in the bios enabled?

Also, does enabling SGX in the bios still allow you to undervolt?

 

https://download.schenker-tech.de/package/schenker-key-15-ske15e20/

Just download both zip files from here ^^

For "Bios-SCHENKER_KEY_15_VE_SKE15E20_EC_1.07.02TR2" extract all the files then run the "ECFLASH.BAT" in the "WinFlash" folder.

For "Bios-SCHENKER_KEY_15_SKE15E20_BIOS_1.07.07RTR1" extract and run the "FlashALLWinX64.bat"

That should do it.

 

So I ordered a Sager NP7858dw-s(clevo NH50DDW) but now seeing this, I'm having battery envy, anyone know what kind of difference I'll see from a 48WH battery vs the 73? Also wondering if cooling will be better on the one I ordered. Can't find any internal pictures or review on it, I'm so torn.

 

My NP8752D2 / Clevo PC50DD2 with RTX 2060 came in today.

Geez this thing is thin. Was a little weird at the start: windows 10 updated something and then the keyboard stopped working but another update/reboot fixed it. I also had to make an account and login to disable BatteryBoost to get the GPU to go past 72C which I didn't know was a thing now with Nvidia GFE.

I'm getting some random spikes on the CPU going from 45C to 99C when doing web browsing or photo editing. The fans kick in pretty quickly and that's how I can tell.

With the stock paste I got Firestrike 15321 with Max GPU Temp of 63C and Max CPU Temp of 99C on HWmonitor. Something is up though because in 3dMark the average CPU temps were usually 75C except for the physics test which was around 88C.

The lowest core had a max of 84C while the highest had that max of 99C.

Pretty great thermals. I don't see a way to boot into discrete though. Is this not an option on the thin clevos with the stock CCC?

Going to try the Obsidian Tool, undervolt and eventually a repaste.

The keyboard is great and I'm glad that the power brick is much smaller compared to my P670RP brick.

 

On this model the internal screen is always optimus, it's the external displays that are hooked into the dGPU directly.

 

Regarding battery 74Wh will get you around 6h for light tasks, which is double that of the 48Wh battery.

Clevo's 'N' range is considered midrange, the 'P' range is high end, so in theory the P models would have better cooling, especially because they sport the 10875H.

 

They will also be a bit bigger usually.

 

The model I got also has the 10875H, with a 2060, I may just keep it, seems to get about 3-4 hours on light tasks

Bigger being better cooling? I couldn't resist and opened it, it seems ok, cpu hitting about 93 max gpu 94, but in most games not going over about 83/84

 

Yes, due to the bigger heatsinks that can fit.

 

So I’m having a problem with my new NP8752F1.

Ever since I got it, it occasionally stops responding. The screen will be black and it will not let me do anything, but the keyboard remains lit up as of it is ready to go. However, the mouse or keyboard will not wake up the screen and I cannot Remote Desktop into it.

As first, I thought it was a WD Mybook I had plugged in causing it, so I unplugged the Mybook. Within a day or two it did it again, I updated all of the drivers, specifically the two graphics drivers. And within a couple days it did it again. Keep in mind I never notice it the moment it happens, just later when I try to use it.

So then I figured maybe there was something wrong with one of my power adapters causing it to do this, when I moved it from the living room to my bedroom. But today, once again it did it again and I never even moved from one power adapter to another.

I’ve been working all weekend, and the computer as remained in my bedroom and not moved or unplugged at anytime from the power or Ethernet since Thursday at around 9pm (CST). I’ve remoted into it numerous times the last couple of days with no problem.

Today, I woke up around 4pm (night shift guy) and it worked flawlessly. I checked my email and remoted into my old Sager on the same network, which I’m using now as a torrent box and Plex server. I then left the computer where it was, I didn’t move it, plug or unplug anything, or do anything.

I got ready for work and when I got to work, I attempted to remote into my home computer and it was not online. I had my wife check it and it was again black on the screen with the keyboard and mouse failing to “wake it up.” I have had all sleep and hibernation features disabled from day 1, I hate these features and never used them, especially since I access the computer remotely and use it 24/7. But this is concerning for my brand new laptop that it inexplicably goes black and the only way to bring it back is to hold the power button down and reboot it.

Meaker?

 

And it just happened again.

No access to my computer at home and when I get there it will be black, keyboard lit up, fans running yet no OS and no way to get the screen up.

 

Send it back to your reseller with a precise description of what and when things go wrong. It shouldn't behave like that if you disabled sleep and hibernate. Did you undervolt?