*** Official Clevo PA70HS-G Owner's Lounge ***

The reversed is the lower right under the keyboard you're talking about.
Hmm that's weird. The problem I had in that post was because of that reversed screw.
Are you sure you removed a total of 13 screws? Not including the reversed one.

 

Yep, I have 14 screws sitting in my tray that I have removed. I sent some pictures to Larry at LPC and he is going to contact the factory to see if they can help. Thanks for your help.

 

I think you're good to go. Just use your finger and slide in the side vents like in this picture then lift it up from the back vents area toward the front where the LED indicators are located. That's how I remove mine after figuring out that stupid scew

 

I have mine 'cracked' open a bit more than what is shown in your pic, but the front is not releasing. It feels like something in the middle area of the case is not releasing. But i have checked that keyboard screw and I removed the right one, i even tried the other screw under the keyboard. I have spent a couple days trying to get the cover to release, and I don't want to risk breaking it. I am hoping my sales rep, when he talks to the factory, will come up with an idea.

 

That's strange. I don't even have to remove keyboard to take off the bottom of mine so I dunno what could be going on there.

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

 

The service manual mentions it, so I followed it. http://s472165864.onlinehome.fr/anyware/manuels/PA70HS.pdf Definitely strange as the SSD isn't even under the keyboard, but I guess they want you to remove it to get to that screw.. My last Sager/Clevo was much easier to get the bottom cover off.

 

There are small clips at the front part. Try pulling the lid toward the back vents area to see if you can get it open...
Also the middle area of the case is that screw under the keyboard which you have removed already. So I think you shouldn't break anything trying to lift it up

 

I guess when your reseller serviced your laptop he/she just removed that screw to avoid the pain of removing the keyboard just to pull it out

 

I talked to my reseller, and the screw under the keyboard and the 13 other screws are all it takes. So I pulled it open as far as I could, made sure the clips had cleared, then put a lot of force pulling the back middle area apart. I put so much force that my finger tips had dents. But it finally popped. I am not sure what it got stuck on. Thanks for the help.

 

That indicates it was its first time. Congrats
/s

 

LOL Much tighter than any other cherry I have popped.

 

guys I need some help

how do I remove this cable? do i need to wiggle side to side? use a flat head to pry it out? it has this ribbon on top, so i need to pull it or something?
i couldn't comfortably get it out, so i left it in, and maneuvered the heatsink so i cleaned and repasted it. I thought it was sucessful. but now HWmonitor. is showing cpu temps jumping up and down by 10-15 degrees. going from idle 50c to 65c and back down again (fan speed remains the same, no ramp up ). Did my fat fingers smudge the sensor?
also, after the repaste, previously Hwmonitor showed 2794hz on the clock speeds, now its between 3394 to 3794hz, i never touched any turbo or clocking utilities, it looks like its running at constant turbo.

does anyone know where the cpu temperature sensor is located?

im lost

 

this is what the hwmonitor looks like, I dont recall it any of the numbers jumping around as often
any help is greatly appreciated

 

I don't get it, such good cooling on the GPU, nice heatsink fit, 2 fans, big heatsink......

aaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnddddddddd then the CPU happened. trash design again :'D

 

Pull straight up from its connector. Push down to snap it back into place.

The sensor should be fine. Check the thermal paste spread, and/or re-tighten the screws.

Do you see anything using CPU resources in Windows Task Manager?

 

Did you set power plan to Performance?

 

If only...someone has the courage to...remove the shared heatpipe from the CPU heatsink to the GPU. My speculation is that this will greatly reduce CPU temps when the GPU is run on full load together. Run 2 stress tests in aida64, one with a CPU alone, then another one with the GPU added, you'll see how much temp difference between the two.
I have already done here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/powerspec-1710-1510.809785/page-49#post-10675715
I really don't get why the GPU would need any help from the CPU, since it already has 2 radiators for itself.

 

@Prostar Computer thanks for the info. at the moment on task manger, the only process thats consuming is the firefox at 3% cpu usage then antimalware serive at 2%. so nothing really running hard to make the cpu jump around.

Maybe i need to reset everthing. also when you say lift the connector up, are we talking holding the wire by the neck and lifting to the sky. or pull it left? once i can figure that out, then ill repaste again and make sure.

@Tuan Hoang yep, power plan has always been high performance, and i limited the power management to 90% cpu maybe thats why? ill reset it to default and then undervolt

 

yes, that's why the CPU is capped at its turbo speed, even at 0% load, as seen in your video

 

No, it doesn't. Trust a guy and many many many other people here who fight their P1xx, P3xx notebooks because of the garbage fit that is on the GPU. You have the same issue, but on the CPU. I don't know why clevo can't seem to design a good and tight heatsink fit like on other notebooks. It's ridicolous. Once you fix the fit on the CPU, the shared design will then work.

Take the extreme scenario, Alienware have shared heatsinks and those things are an absolute nightmare. You do a GPU only test and suddenly you see 95c on the CPU. Running games is instant throttle and the temps on the CPU are terrible, once you respasted it with good quality paste and fix the fit, suddenly good temps.

 

I think Alienware has 2 radiators for both the CPU and GPU, so they put the shared heat pipes for the heat to spread evenly.
Here in the PA70HS, the GPU has a higher TDP (115W vs 45W of the CPU) and it has 2 radiators, the CPU is half amount of that so 1 radiator only, this kinda makes sense.
I find it a bit strange to put one heat pipe from the CPU over the GPU. Of course I'm no better than the engineering team at Clevo, however looking at that design, I still wonder the reasons behind their decision to do that.
I'm hoping someone with engineering expertise can help me clarify this or point out if I'm wrong...

 

Lift straight up (to the sky). You can pull using the thin tape that's on the connector itself, but that sometimes comes undone. Try by the neck of the wire, at the base of the connector. Let us know how your thermal compound spread looks.

 

Mine gets super hot over the CPU when gaming, almost to hot to touch. Is there something I can do to fix the fit? I also find it odd that they run the power cord with a ferrite core so that it will block the CPU vent.

 

You should have the ferrite close to the connector from an electrical engineering perspective.

 

True, but they could have rearranged the power connector location and/or vent so that the ferrite didn't block the vent. Or not use a 90 degree power connector so that it doesn't sit right next to the vent.

To fix it, I put a half ball under each rear foot to lift the back. This way the ferrite can sit lower than the vent.

 

I don't think it blocks the vent and would make any difference in temperature at all. There is still plenty of room for the vent to dissipate heat

 

Here is a picture showing how much it blocks the vent. https://imgur.com/a/nGa3p

I also noticed mine has an entire column of pixels out, or always black. I am waiting till Monday, so I can start the repair process for that.

 

I'm curious, have you tested the temperatures with it positioned like that and not?

 

If you go by your maths, the 115W chip has two fans but this is more than double the heat dissipation compared to a 45W chip - so helping the GPU by taking some additional head away with the heatpipe which goes from GPU chip to the "CPU radiator" makes theoretical sense. In practice, things don't always work out the same as there are other factors to take into account as previously mentioned.

 

Linking thermal systems can help idle temperatures (especially with optimus on) and single load scenarios.

 

OK So I just started having a few issues with this model. I had to do a fresh install of Windows due to some updates that didn't work out. Now, whenever I am gaming, and as soon as I hit 70*C, my gpu clocks lower to 1468 mhz (down from the average 17xx I usually get until that point) and won't go back up until I restart the laptop, which is an excercise in futility because it just does it again in like 5 mins. I've tried reinstalling drivers, going back to previous drivers, and reinstalling CCC. This didn't happen with my previous install and I don't know what's going I. I did find another thread about it and tried their solution (A voltage/frequency curve in Afterburner) but that doesn't work either, it just delays it from happening for a few more minutes. Any thoughts @Meaker@Sager ?

 

Same thing happened to me. All I did was reinstalled Windows and let it install the Nvidia driver by itself.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/powerspec-1710-1510.809785/page-36#post-10663602

 

So I believe I have *fixed* it as well (cautiously optimistic). I basically redownloaded and reinstalled all the updated drivers directly from Clevo Website. Now at 17xx MHz and 78*C or so benchmarking in Heaven. Would you still recommend doing a voltage/frequency tuning in Afterburner? I feel like I could make my clocks better at lower temps as well.

Update: have you updated your GPU drivers since? If so, did you run in to any clock speed issues?

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I'm not sure about the frequency/voltage tuning in Afterburner so I can't give you an answer for that, sorry. If you think it's worth trying to see if it makes any difference, just go ahead.

Yeah I did update my drivers to 390.[something]. I haven't encountered any clock speed issues so far.

This whole thing could be a driver bug. Or worse, a bios bug :|

 

Any drop in voltage is always going to help.

 

I did the voltage tuning. Helped a bit but not much. Does anyone here know of anyone who Liquid Metals laptops after they've been bought? I bought mine from @Eurocom Support and have been trying to deal with the temperatures with paste but I can't seem to get them to behave very well and it's making me anxious that my CPU reaches like 85 or 90 Celsius while playing Far Cry 5 and the likes.

 

A couple of places offer it at purchase. I'm not sure any one offers an after sales version.

 

So I emailed Eurocom. If I screwed up during application, the mobo would be $1100 USD... So not gonna go with that.
I just ordered some Phobya NanoGrease Extreme as per many suggestions on other threads.
Also, I bought some small copper shims. My hope is that I can put them on the heatpipes and make contact with the aluminum chassis of the laptop to use the chassis itself as a heat pipe / heat spreader.
Also, I've heard of people using copper shims on their CPU/GPU dies between the heatsinks in something like this:
CPU/GPU die --> thermal paste --> copper shim --> thermal paste --> heatsink.
At first I thought this was a good enough idea since copper has such a high thermal conductivity, but it seems to me like in reality all it would do is add another layer for the heat to get through. The copper would be help back by the conductivty of the thermal paste anyway. Any thoughts anyone?

 

The use of a shim is to improve the pressure on the die by eliminating the gap. A thick paste may very well work just as well.

 

Agreed. IC Diamond and GC extreme are pretty thick, worth a look.

 

It depends on the gap you are talking about, less than 1mm then a paste will do the job, over that and it's better for a shim.

 

Yeah I've heard IC diamond is really good... Apparently the Phobya Nanogrease extreme is supposed to have about the same thickness/texture and a much higher w/mk

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It's a bit less thick but the increase in performance might be worth it.

 

Those figures don't really have standards applied to them, the best way is to test it against others in the same conditions. Mostly the best pastes are pretty close to each other in performance.

 

Hello all!
Can anybody upload vBios 86.04.6E.00.0A or 86.04.6E.00.09 for Nvidia 1070 please ??
You can use this tool for vBios backup.
Thank you

 

PA71 has the worst heatsink hands down

 

Surely that would go to gigabyte or apple...

 

My temps were perfect when I had it

 

The heatsink is not good for 8th gen processors

 

It's good to join in but try and articulate yourself better and go into more detail.