*** Official Clevo P870KM1/P870KM1-G/Sager NP9876 Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 3.0 ***

4.8Ghz about 65C.

 

Do you live in fridge?

 

LOL i wish.
Normal LA weather right now.

 

Go on bud... those temps are begging for 5ghz as a daily driver. You'll be living the dream!
Waiting on my pads.. I'm jelly

 

Really wish i could haha. That is only during Ghost Recon, which doesn't seem to be as demanding i guess.

 

Wait.. There is no Prema bios for the EVOC P870KM1 yet meaning all builds right now are on the default manufacturer bios?

 

Insulting My CPU reaches 99 C on auto fans. 91 C on overclock fans. And you get 65 C on auto fans at 4.8ghz? Mine is at 4.7 ghz.

 

IDK what u guys doing with ur laptops.. On stock speeds(4.2 norma, and turbo 4,5, -140 mv) my cpu can run OCCT CPU test(100% usage) for like 1 min and 36 sec on max fans untill it reaches 85C;/ its not delided but repasted with IC diamond using cross method. Same with gpu, playing witcher 3 at ultra/75 fps on Oc fans mode it reaches 79/81C (one GPU card with T shaped heatsync - also repasted with IC diamond using cross method - @Phoenix <3). How one GPU can be hotter than SLI?

@bloodhawk do u use any cooler board?

 

Do not forget the Clevo heatsink lottery
Yoou need delidding + Liquid metal and copper shims for processor. Remove the covers for more equal temp between the graphics cards...

 

My CPU is deli-dded and using LM thermal paste. I do have a U3 and use it sometimes, but that run was not with the fans turned on.

Yeap Auto.

 

May I assume that since you are quoting my post "As Prema says, he hopes to have it ready for the EVOC P870KM1 long before mid-July...but even if it isn't ready by the time yours ships, assuming you are buying it from a Prema Partner, they will reach out to you once it is released and flash it for you remotely." that your question is rhetorical?

 

As mentioned by @Donald@HIDevolution , not yet. @Prema was on a much needed vacation for a bit, and jut returned a few days back. Give him some time. Once it is ready, the re-sellers will reach out to you and remotely flash it.

 

TRUST ME @Prema bios is worth the wait. If you haven't bought it yet make sure you go thru a partner shop. I just purchased a heat sink through HIDevolution, they couldn't have been more helpful. I will be getting a KM1 from HID soon. Highly recommend them.

 

My apologies, I was under the assumption that HIDevolution already has Prema bios as it is listed on the configuration page for the Km1.

 

Please read carefully...it says:
"Latest Updated Version once available - Contact us for details."
.

 

Have you found time to test the Liquid Copper paste yet? Although it does not answer the question of durability, I am curious if it really does as well as shown here compared to CLU, IC Diamond and Kryonaut.

https://play3r.net/reviews/cooling/thermal-paste-comparison-2015-best-thermal-paste/3/

Spoiler: Thermal Paste Test Results

 

I have the tube with me, ill test it out once im back next weekend. Pretty close to you atm

 

You coming to see me, or just passing through, bro?

Dropped S/A clock (FCLK) from 1GHz to 800MHz to see if it hurt performance and/or helps temps. Still undecided and need to do more benching since it supposedly helps GPU performance at 1GHz (or so I read... not verified yet).

Looking to beat this (currently has Kryosnot).

 

At GC for some work (shoots and ****s) will definitely try and come see you if we get a day off.

But hot damn, those temps are amazing, ill do some extensive testing next week. This weekend before leaving, i tested out Master Gel Maker Nano and ICD. ICD flat out looses under heavy loads. MasterGel however looks very very promising. Ill do a testing with it on the CPU once im back along with comparisons to ICD/GCE/Kryonaut/CLC.

 

I'm hoping I can get 5.0GHz below 90°C without AC. This is just max fans on the U3 that has the Vardar Furious fans.

 

Thats pretty good IMO. But i doubt we will be able to sustain anything under 90C without LM. With my voltage guzzler, i top out at 82C after about 30 mins of Real Bench. AIDA 64 barely crosses 75C.
Damn you @Q937

 

I have the MasterGel Maker paste, but have not tried it yet. I originally ordered it from CoolerMaster on the 12th, back when Brother @Johnksss@iBUYPOWER first mentioned it. When that still had not shipped by the 17th, I cancelled and ordered it from NewEgg and got it 48 hours later.

 

I have it currently on my GPU's -

Spoiler

But it definitely not one of the thicker pastes.

 

@Papusan thanks for advice, i will try this out.

Ur GPUs works on very low frequency - i guess its at idle? Mine gpu works on 1500 mhz even at idle - is it normal? If not than how can i adjust it?

One more thing, on diffrent forum i get advice to do something that is called tapemode, anyone tried it here?

 

From my post in Clevo OC thread But with 7700K run 4.5 and 5.0GHz

Have seen similar mod in the Dell XPS Jokebook BGA thread. You will find it. But don't expect wonders.

Edit: You could also try similar heatsink mod With copper chims as @bloodhawk

 

Use it on mine, more of an optimization than a world difference but better none the less.

 

what is it supposed to do? to direct the whole airflow through the cooler (so to not loose any airflow in an upwards direction)?

 

Check your windows and Nvidia power settings.

 

That screenshot was at idle. But the point was the max/average temps after a 30 min Heaven run @ 4k Ultra using Autofans.

 

@ Meaker@Sager now better it used to be on max performance so i guess it was the case - again thanks.

_deadbydawn_ yes, fans are a bit higher than heatsync "ribs". I used on this pic aluminium self-adhesive tape that can stand up to 90C (for 10m i paid like 3 euro so its rly cheap solution)

@Papusan looks nice, how it supose to work? @bloodhawk do u can say anything else about this? eg what u used to "glue" it and does not it change "position" of heatsync?

 

I used Artic Silver Adhesive. Ideally you would want to use solder paste and solder it on. But that is much more riskier.
And it does not change the position per say, just dont cover up that groove that goes over the HDMI port.

 

KM1 is on the way to the US from SK.



Razer Blade with 7700HQ is cleared for reviewers sample around April 1 @bloodhawk

I'm going to start a thread where I'll be posting live updates on tearing the razer apart.

 

Let 'er rip.

 

thanks for the feedback, i'll have to try this out as well

 

dude, noob question probably: where do those copper shims connect to? i mean what do they connect...heatsinks and what?

 

They provide a more massive metal heatsink grill. They are glued onto the heatsink radiator for better cooling.

 

ah i see. thanks man!

 

You increase the thermal mass but not really the cooling by adding plates like that.

 

Thats why you add them in places that make sense.

 

But a plate gives a tiny surface area boost.

 

Unfortunately, tiny area is all that is available. I think Mr. Fox has also done only plates before, and that gave him a 2-3C drop at least.
End of the day, they are adding an additional surface for the heat to diffuse out to, and then get blow out with the air.
If there was no air flow, then your argument would be valid.

 

If you take a plate and place it over a flat surface you get the surface area of the sides extra. So take a 1mm thick plate that is 50mmx50mm over a flat surface you get 200mm^2 extra area total or 2cm^2 of less efficient surface area.

If you could etch in a pattern you could see better results.

 

*sigh*
The whole mod dropped the temps by 10-12C , end of story.

 

I was not talking about the whole mod but a single part. I am dubious at best and think it needs a closer look and could be improved if it is making a difference.

People have started adding in random pieces of copper before and claiming it helped temps when actually it was making things worse

 

Adding copper plates / Shim = adding more thermal mass = More area for the heat to move to before they get diffused to the fins where they can be blown away with the air. Thermal Equilibrium.
The more heat we can take away from the main sections, the better.

 

Think of thermal mass as adding inductance into a circuit, it will resist any change to the circuit flow but once equilibrium is reached it will not have an impact on the flow. The only benefit can come from fin area or airflow. If you end up blocking airflow you will hurt temperatures.

 

I have to jump in here and say the one thing not being considered is the turbulence in the airflow caused by those little spiked plates. Airflow is carefully designed into that relatively small box, and disrupting it with turbulence could, at the very least, diminish their effectiveness. It would be interesting to just take them off, leaving everything else there, to see exactly how much they help.

 

Quotes go a long way.

Inductance is the reason reason why heat pipes are used instead of solid copper plates or a block. All we are doing here is adding mass at the end of the chain, where heat gets dissipated out, to create a buffer.
If the plates were that ineffective, copper shims would practically be useless to fill gaps, specially on systems where heat sinks are not making proper contact with the processor IHS.

 

Have y'all seen @bloodhawk 's temps though? GPU (and CPU for that matter) are stupid low under load.

 

This one we are talking about , was done on the DM1's GPU heat sink.