*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

The UE4 before temps were before I had undervolted

But yes, I think -100mV is a good place to be at n.n

 

Xtu only stops what you edited when something you change causes system to crash. 99% sure on that. Somebody elaborate if I'm wrong.

I said go with -100mv because that is more than likely stable. From the numbers you threw out I'm willing to bet your endgame undervolt will end up being -110 to -125. I could run -75mv but system crashes every 1-6 days. -70 was my sweet spot.

Let's hypothesize after you sit down and try to find the biggest stable UV and it ends up being -120, I would run -115 for a little padding. From your numbers I would guess your beat stable undervolt is in the ballpark of -110-115mv.

Also, are you running stock multipliers? -44,-44,-43 and -42? I for instance am running 40x across the board. The boost is irrelevant to me. Helps my current limit throttle stat run flat. I highly recommend finding an undervolt where your current limit throttle runs a flat line also. Don't know if you need the turbo boost, but that might affect where your ultimate undervolt stays.

And yes you have to repaste GPU also. Easy peasy. Use pea method. Has worked great for me. Some might recommend an X or straight line on CPU. And a LITTLE too much is better than not enough. Some peeps try to be too conservative. Extra emphasis on 'little too much' because of that. Too much and your temps might go up.

 

You're right there.

I thought you were talking about with your -120mV, but ok. Guess I was wondering about that current limit for nothing.

Anyway, night gents. I might actually sleep now. Might. I think. Probably.

 

I'm running stock multipliers (40, 40, 39, 38) with turbo boost on, Samsung High Performance power mode, Performance mode set under Hotkey

Also heres my ASIC score:

 

Has anyone tried raising the refresh rate of the screen? I found @Scerate did and had to use CRU to make it stick.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...72-owners-lounge.768770/page-172#post-9973750

Is it as simple as creating a custom resolution in Nvidia Control panel or CRU, and raise refresh rates until artifacts or black screen?

Edit: 90 Hz seems stable. Diablo 3 needs Borderless to work, Witcher 2 works in Fullscreen.
Would be nice to be able to have vsync off and still be rid of tearing.

 

@ZachZombify it was stated once by another member but I will say it again. The value of your offset is irrelevant. If you want to post your offset values such as -100mV we need to know the stock voltage. It is better to post your CPU clocks as well as the voltage it is running. Only then will we be able to have any clue where you are at in terms of your undervolt.


Edit: I have my screen OC currently using CRU. I found my max OC without any artifacts was 93. I leave it set at even 90 though.

 

Yes...

Raised mine to 100hz and it runs fine and stable...

 

Nice. How's gaming for you and @superkyle1721 , do you need windowed mode in some games? D3 was stuck at 60 fps for me in Full screen when I checked with vsync.

 

The game has to play well with higher refresh rates too.

 

I was wondering about this too. Would save me hundreds to not have to get a G-Sync/FreeSync monitor.

 

My stock voltage is 1.2V on 1 core & 1.12V on all 4.
Multipliers: 40, 40, 39, 38

-100mV puts it at 1.102V on 1 core & 1.024V on all 4

This is with turboboost on, Samsung high performance option, and Performance mode selected in hotkey.

Should I undervolt cache/processor analog/processor digital?
If so is it the same process?

Also, what do you mean by 'artifacts'?
Edit: Oh the artifact thing was for OC'ing your screen. Does this affect the life of it? Or have any negative consequences?
Edit2: I'm enjoying my lappy much more now, the -100mV makes the laptop wayy quieter and at least a few degrees cooler.
Edit3: I was playing GTA V for a while and the system hung on a frame and repeated a really loud noise. So I shut down my pc (this was with -100mV, turbo boost turned off, speedstep turned off)
I have since taken the -100mV off and just turned turbo boost and speedstep off and am relatively pleased with the results. I don't see myself needing more than 3.6ghz anyway.

If you wait a couple months (hopefully) we should see mobile drivers that natively support G-Sync, as a laptop renders directly from the video card, there is no need for extra software/hardware.
Here is one site that has a SMALL amount of details on it.
Here is a video.

 

At least Witcher 2 is working without problem. 60+ fps, no tearing. If I enable vsync it's locked at 90 in certain areas so I know it's working.

Max for me is 96 Hz. Anything above doesn't produce black screen, it just won't show up as a clickable option.

 

Too bad a lot of other games/engines tear a lot more than Witcher 2

 

I'll try more games.

My post above was while using CRU. In Nvidia control panel I can add higher rates. I just tried 97 Hz and the screen went black. Was waiting for the 15 seconds to revert back, have been waiting for five minutes now.. Do I dare reboot?

 

Did you hit ESC yet?

Try playing Skyrim w/o V-Sync. Oh boy...

 

Esc does nothing.

 

Weird. When my screen blacks out while testing custom resolutions in Nvidia Control Panel, ESC restores the previous settings. You have to reboot then.

 

Reboot reverted to 96 Hz, thx.

Edit: I don´t have Skyrim installed but I just tried Dragon Age: Inquisition, Planetside 2, Shadow of Mordor and Dying Light without vsync. All smooth at 60+ fps, no tearing

As a sidenote max temps for all these on Auto fans where CPU 83C and GPU 73C. I didn´t play for long, but still.

 

How do you guys OC your screens? A step-to-step guide would be appreciated.

I go into the Nvidia tab for resolution -> hit on modify -> create custom resolutions -> change refresh rate in 5 Hz steps -> test -> rinse and repeat until screen shows garbage -> reduce by 1 Hz until garbage is gone. Is there something else that can be done, maybe changing the timings or scan type to get more Hz out of the screen?

Btw my screen Chi Mei N173HGE-L11 capped at 73Hz. Thougt i could get more out of it ;-(

 

That will do it. I didn´t think that would work for me as vsync in Diablo 3 still capped at 60. Turns out that games needs borderless. Anyway I used a program called Custom Resolution Utility instead. You add custom rates the same way but you have to reboot before you can activate them. Unstable rates wont show up as an option, compared to changing in Nvidia Control panel where testing will give you a black screen.

I´m also interested in if you can dabble with timing or other things to get even more out of it. Though I´m quite happy with my 96 Hz.

 

Seriously, you all should check and see if the eDP port is present on your motherboards. Anyone who finds it should buy a LG LP173WF2-TPB1 and and a 50-pin eDP cable (eurocom has them) and see if the screen works. I know the dimensions and mounting orientations are compatible because other screens that work in my PC are sold in the P770ZM.

If it works without much issue, you all will have native 120Hz panels.

 

Is there any negatives to oc'ing your screen?
Through nvidia control panel I currently have mine at 110hz, I would keep it active because obviously 110hz > 60 hz but dont want to if its going to ruin my display or fry something

Ideally I would like to overclock my 970m to be closer to a 980m, and apply the 110hz screen refresh rate.

edit: I had to lower it to 100hz because it started making my screen do super weird **** when switching to 110hz, weird that it worked for so long though (managed to play some borderlands 2 at 110fps (verified using vsync))

 

IIRC, the 17" main boards don't have eDP ports yet. If you're not sure then look for the white sticker label on the box. The line after "Model" should be "M/B" and look something like "LVDS(W/O TPM)/FP". That's mine and it means I have the LVDS port and no TPM.

 

I'm not sure about the risks. I'd imagine if there are no artifacts of any kind it's ok. But I'd like some more insight in this.

 

It's that for definite m8? I've just looked on the box for my P771ZM and it says: M/B : LVDS/T PM/FP

Does that mean I only have the LVDS port, or eDP as well?

Mick

 

D2 I know you are much more well versed on this stuff than I am so you think you could help me out in determining if it may work or not. I know where to look for the connector but I'm not sure what connector looks like what. I'll be happy to do a quick tear down and take a look at the installed connector to give others an idea of it will work.

Edit: seems as though I should have kept reading. I just noticed this was answered already basically.

 

I'd still want to confirm it with @LunaP, goddess of display panels, but yeah, I'm pretty sure that you have the LVDS port and do not have eDP.

 

Ask Eurocom to check a board for you, or ask Mythlogic if the connectors are on their boards. The P750ZM have one or the other, but I thought the P770ZM had both.

Of course I have no real way to check.

 

Got my screen back to 110hz using Nvidia control panel vs CRU
120hz seems to be fine until I open terraria, get weird artifacts but then everything goes back to normal

Edit: I also seem to be getting wayyyyyy better results out of doing it through nvidia control panel than making a custom one in CRU, if I made one in CRU, set it, and then opened geforce experience my screen would flash a few times, it doesnt do that now. Also I think some of the CRU profiles I made are somewhat broken (they would work most of the time but then occasionaly when I switched to it my screen went all wonky (like spazzing out)), I havent noticed this with the new profile under nvidia control panel...

Edit: The spazzing I think is coming from waking up my computer from standby and then applying a profile (both nvidia and CRU profiles)

Would it be better to put it at 90? (to keep the 30/60/90/120 this going)

So I would advise against using CRU maybe? Unless I did something wrong I believe it has more potential to break your monitor than not xD

 

Side note. My initial install I could only get 70hz. I ended having to reinstall windows 8.1 pro twice because I had issues for some reason on the new sm951. Anyways, I was setting g computer again and remembered screen hz. For hahas I I tried 100hz at first. Had artifaxting but still use able. Went to 95hz, less artifacts but more usable as artifacts barely noticeable. Went with 90hz and has performed flawlessly since. Just weird that reinstalling is a couple times and my screen oc'ed much higher. And my guess is that screen oc'ing is totally independent from anything else. Anybody care to share why I got lucky?

 

I'm still curious as to whether or not its safe before I leave mine at 110hz, don't want to fry my screen or something of the sort, but would love the extra 50hz refresh lol

 

The service manual has 4 motherboards listed, two with edp, two with lvds. If you have lvds, you'd have to get a new mb or solder the connect on, to my knowledge.

BTW, @D2 Ultima - I do apologize about the Broadwell argument. Pre-Order pricing puts the price at $480 or so on the 5775c. So no one with the 4790K would ever bother to find out (or the 4770k for that matter). The 6700k Is predicted to be at $390 on release, so the extra $90 would go to a mb purchase. Means no competition on smart pricing. I'm not trying to rehash, just giving more info and apologizing for arguing (I can be combative when sick).

 

There's no reason to get a broadwell chip (as no unlocked ones have been cited; remember that Intel can bypass their own locking on non-unlocked chips) and there's no reason to get any haswell other than the refresh. It is what it is.

Overclocking a screen beyond spec will shorten its lifespan. No matter what you do, it will do this. End of story. As for how much time it shaves off... that's anyone's guess. It's as much of a risk as overclocking a GPU.

 

@D2 Ultima I have been OCing my screens for a while now and I agree anytime the word OC is involved you run a risk of shortening the life of the component. With that said the life span of modern LCD panels are 10+ years or longer correct? I only say this cause of all the guys I know with OC panels I have never heard of one failing. I'm sure it happens no doubt but I just can't see it as risky as OC GPUs etc....or is it? You would know better.

 

I don't get that XD.
Ajc was saying he saw overclocked broadwell CPU benches. I was stating to him that they mean nothing and that broadwell still sucks. That's what the piece you bolded meant.

Desktop panels usually have very long lifespans though. I don't know about these laptop panels. Granted my D900F's panel lasted about 4 years and should still be working if I could ever get it to boot (I've given up) but take into account your minimum lamp hours. I have 12k which is about a year and a half. Granted it's been almost two years already, but it wasn't nearly powered on 24/7 with the LCD light showing, so... you know. Basically, it's a "at your own risk".

 

Sorry, it was your kinda double negative that made me think twice what you meant. Like Bill Murrays If you're not against me, don't cross this line.
Why not just say locked instead of non-unlocked

 

My brain made sense when i typed it XD

 

The 5775c and 5765c are fully unlocked! They just have a low stock tdp, 6mb l3 cache, etc. K processors are all 8mb cache and tdp in the 80s or above. Intel decided to give a new letter to unlocked, making three in total - c, k, and x. Supposedly, the 5775c was meant to appease those that didn't want to go to skylake, but the pricing says otherwise. The rest was covered, so not retracing.

Edit: not saying that your statement isn't true. All locked processors could be unlocked by Intel if not for them having a profit motive and promoting market segmentation.

 

If you don't mind me asking, what do the other letters stand for? TPM & FP?

Cheers

 

Tpm is the chip to hold the encryption key for the hard drive, fp is fingerprint module.

 

Cheers

 

Thank you guys, I don't really feel like ocing the screen if its going to shorten the life of it, I'm trying to make this lappy last me as long as possible. Though I would like to OC the gpu given the current like 60C max I think I get haha (Lots of headroom!) though I am aware that ocing the cpu or gpu will raise the heat of the other slightly since they are on the same heatsync. I have no plans to oc my cpu and didnt get the K version for that reason. I turned turbo boost and speedstep off and the temps on my cpu are muchhhh better, I don't think I'll need over 3.6ghz anyway.

 

Well, just know this... there's no way to tell the life of a part. If your screen would have died in say... six years, OCing might make it what, 5? But then you could not OC it and it'd die in 2 years... No way to tell, man. Do it if you want. The unpredictability is as with a GPU, or a CPU.

 

Is there a place I could potentially buy another screen from? If so then I would have no problem doing it.

Edit: And if it is relatively easy to replace the screen, I had one laptop I had to replace the screen on twice and that thing had to be 100% dismantled EVERY TIME.

 

It should be pretty easy to find a replacement screen. I would check with vendors or even google your specific model as you should be able to locate one with ease. The replacement of the screen is fairly straight forward.

Edit: and besides the bezel the only thing that needs to be taken off (I believe as I have not done it myself) is the back plate to get the keyboard out. Once the keyboard is out you disconnect the connector and done.

 

You can buy screens yes. You could ask users like HTWingNut for some help with the screen replacement as they've done it already.

It is not hard to replace screens though you need to dismantle the machine. Clevo laptops are all designed to be easy to dismantle and clean.

 

Is there any better screens for the 17" yet? I'm pretty sure I have the chi mei screen, its not too bad.. but I feel like I can get better

I would especially like to get rid of the backlight bleed if possible, its only visible on really dark things but the right side of my pc has a decent amount of bleed (though I can live with it if need be)

 

If you don't mind the gloss, there's the AUO B173HW01 V.4 that's a 90% gamut gloss screen.

Unless you have an eDP connector on your board, you're probably outta luck for a really better matte screen though.