*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

I got busy Friday and a little yesterday, so in the process of lapping. Sorry for the delay. After the heatsink, I still have to do the back plate too. I only have three more grit types to go through on the heatsink (every surface).

 

Oh no problem just curious on how it was coming. What are you referring to when you say the back plates? Are you sanding the rear heatsink on the gpu?

 

Yep
Edit: You have backplates on watercooled gpus on desktops also

 

Every so often, maybe every fifth game session, mu gpu runs at low speed right from the start. Memory is stuck at 799 MHz and the core 600-something or normal. A reboot solves it but its quite annoying, whats going on?

Extra annoying tonight, tired as all hell, I was gonna try Planetside 2 with overclocked 4790K. It was going well, a solid 4.5 GHz on all cores with low temps. I played for a good bit, logged values and recorded. Not untill I watched the video did I notice once again the low clock on gpu. Rage on, data useless, whine on forum.

 

That's odd. The first thing that comes to mind is to reinstall the drivers and see if anything changes. I would do it from scratch..ie use DDU to wipe and reinstall a fresh downloaded copy. I would assume the vram flash is fine so wouldn't worry about reflashing. Hopefully that fixes the issue else I'm at a loss with you.

 

What are your temps when this happens. If its around every fifth game that could be a common time for your GPU to hit a higher temp and it starts to throttle.

 

So, prelim numbers aren't great. I have not levelled contact yet. Can do 4.6 @1.21V approx (a -20mV offset). My chip may just run hot, but as I said, I didn't level yet (and I think the fins aren't lining up with the fans perfectly. Feels like it isn't pushing air like with the first one.). I actually had to lightly pull to separate the CPU and gpu sinks a little more for it to even sit in the laptop.

 

Not the fifth in a row, in one sitting. It was just a measure of frequency.
It happened again today with the first game after starting up, so temps 40-50C. I can see it immediately on the overlay when the game launches.

 

I think I have the same problem. The problem occurs when I go on battery mode, after connecting the power outlet again, the memory clock of the GPU stays at 799 Mhz. Rebooting while connected to the power outlet fixes the problem, but as soon as I go on battery again the issue will repeat itself.

 

I have that with my XM-cpu in my HM. Sometimes after being on battery it gets stuck in a lower power state, I have to reboot or use ThrottleStop.

Didn't think that could happen with gpus and didn't think it applied to me here because I've only been plugged in. But now that I think about it, sometimes I start on battery and plug in during boot or in Windows. I'll plug it in first for awhile and see if it persists.

 

Any idea when they will come out with 3K or 4K screens for the 9772? Or would it be relatively easy to upgrade myself in a year or two to a new screen?

 

AFAIK there aren't any 3k 4k 17 inch screen so it might take a while...

Also, from what I recall when reading the P750ZM, upgrading isn't possible due to the screens using different connectors. Correct me if I'm wrong though.

 

Yep. Different connectors for 1080p and 3k/4k display panels. @LunaP did a thorough analysis of the 15" model options but the technical aspects should carry over to the 17" model modulo the lack of 17" 3k and 4k panels.

 

You might be able to buy a new P770ZM with a 4k screen someday, but current motherboards lack the header soldered on. So upgrading is out of the question without a mobo swap, or some mad soldering skills.

 

I'm so pathetic.....the guy behind me is honking his horn because I won't go when the light turned green. Doesn't he know I need to check the build status every hour at red lights?

 

Browsing while driving, tut tut. Just pull over every 5 mins instead

 

Laptop arrived yesterday. Really shows just how horrible my other laptop's NIC card is as transferring the files from my old laptop to my new one takes forever. Thankfully, I have my e-mail and internet settings all copied over and the rest are just files that I'll burn onto a DVD and transfer over. I'm really loving this thing. The screen is amazingly bright and detailed, with no dead pixels or light leaks. Stunning. The other really cool thing is the silence. With a bunch of tabs open in Chrome the fans are basically off and the CPU/GPU are idling at around 44 C. I am VERY happy with this purchase.

 

I got a popup from Intel Update Manager to install something. Havent seen that one before, what is it and can it interfere with Premas Bios somehow?

 

Q4 (eDP only)

 

The update manager just keeps things like the chipset drivers up to date.

 

Coming from a 4 year old Sager, the silence is AMAZING. Unless I fire up a game, the fans are off/not audible and it often wonder if the system is asleep. My P170HM would blast the fans every 10 minute just sitting there.

 

The idle states of both haswell and maxwell have seen large improvements which have helped. Your heatsink also has a large amount of thermal inertia too

 

I'd imagine the combined CPU/GPU heatsink helps a ton (and is why it has a large thermal inertia). As long as it can cast off the same heat under max load as two separate heatsinks, it seems like win/win for any case where at least one of the two is not under max load.

 

https://www.techpowerup.com/212531/intel-core-i7-5775c-broadwell-scrapes-5-ghz-oc-on-air.html
5GHz boot stable, but not stable enough to bench and used 1.419V. This is shaping up to be better than expected, but less than hoped for (a full K version binned). There is no information yet on the silicon lottery of broadwell yet either, but I thought I'd share for people to discuss!

 

P750ZM and P770ZM have a lot of cooling overhead. Mine peaked at 8oC under Mythlogic's BF4 stress tests, and it hit 76C CPU and 67C GPU with Firestrike and automatic fans last night. It's rather nice compared to my old Alienware M14x which didn't have enough cooling for normal operation.

 

My settings were + 410-25/+550-575 on stock clocks...

I thought so too ... Malibal is one to really avoid..

Well I hope Skylake isn't going to have this happen since it will increase costs in a sense...

Try with another driver.... I think this is the 350.12 being funny..

Who's going to make these pannels? Any idea? LG?

 

I´m on 347.88. But I think I got it sorted, the tip earlier was that the GPU became stuck in a lower power state after running on battery. Now I always plug it in prior to booting and it haven´t happened since.

I´m done tweaking and testing my P771ZM (for now). Since I´m not doing a full review I wont create a separate thread. I´ll list my numbers etc here for anyone interested.

4790K & Intel XTU

Spoiler

Undervolting drops my temps 10 C, Gelid Extreme a couple more. Stock Clocks are at comfortable temps and I can OC to 4.6 GHz on all cores with -30/-100 mV.
-80/-100 crashes Witcher 2 and permanent undervolt for stock clock is now -70/0.

Spoiler

4.6 GHz stable without throttling in XTU


980M & Heaven

Spoiler

Overvolting +250 MHz on the core with +50 mV overvolt is stable in Heaven. But Fire Strike crashes up to 75 mV, I haven´t gone further.


Fire Strike (Auto fans)

Spoiler

Gaming performance

All tests are done with Gelid Extreme, cooler, Max fans, Prema system BIOS & vBIOS, CPU uv -70 mV. OC tests of 980M are done with +200 MHz on the core with +12,5 mV overvolt.

All games on highest preset, Witcher 2 with Ubersampling disabled. Planetside 2 with 4790K @4.5 GHz all cores and preset High.

Spoiler

Min fps 40-50, avg fps 60-70


Gaming temps

Spoiler

CPU 70-80 C, GPU 60-70 C


Gameplay

Spoiler

 

Hi all,

While waiting for my machine to be built, I've been reading tons of pages since I was last here when my P170EM came out. Anyway, I read 2 things. One is that Mythlogic has partnered with Prema and the other is that Mythlogic loads the latest bios before shipping. You don't suppose Mythlogic loads the latest Prema bios rather than the latest Clevo bios?

As I'm reading all this, I can see that what Prema is doing is giving me a lot of options. I remember the bios in my P170EM.....the thing was pretty much read only.....I don't remember anything that I could do except change the boot order.

The more I read, the more excited I am to get this for my simulators. I've been struggling for years because I don't have enough room for a desktop and the simulators generally don't run great on a laptop.......good enough, just not great.

 

My Deimos shipped three days ago with firmware version 1.03.11MYT and EC version 1.03.09.
I'll let Prema identify them but the MYT string isn't something I'd expect to see in a stock AMI firmware.

 

This should pretty much answer it. It's a Prema BIOS
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/a-question-on-resellers.775485/#post-9996827

 

Because it isn't stock. Mythlogic uses partially unlocked BIOSes from Prema. You could theoretically remain on your stock Myth BIOS and have most (NOT ALL) the benefits that a full prema BIOS unlock would bring.

 

Excellent. Thank you all for the information. I appreciate it.

 

Guys I think I hit the silicon lottery!
I am running my 4790(non k) at -130mV right now. Doing some stability tests to make sure though.
Could do -140mV, and tried -150mV (crashed my comp like 3 mins into the test)

Should I undervolt cache too?

 

While on the subject of stock BIOS, mine shipped with 1.03.12RTR7a-TEST.

 

Depends on what your default voltage is. My old 4800MQ was a meowmix of a chip. That baby would hit max OC on -80mV like it was watching a movie instead of overclocking. That'd be about 0.96v at 3.9GHz

 

Well I was doing -130mV and it was going well until I started playing gta V, got like 1 minute into the game (not including loading) and my pc shut down..so gonna raise it to -120mV and try gta V again since it seems to do a better job at stress testing than intel xtu

 

lol it's not a "better" job. I tried undervolting my current (crappy) 4800MQ and overclocking at the same time. I managed to last a full three hours at -20mV and 3.9GHz. Watched streams, played games, rendered a video, did XTU stress and TSBench, left the PC idle and stuff. All fine.

Know what caused the BSOD? Hearthstone. HEARTHSTONE.

Also, how'd your PC shut down? Black screen shutdown or BSOD?

 

Black screens, haven't seen a BSOD yet, -120mV lasted a lot longer on gta V but it shut down after like 15 mins, I might just not undervolt

Also on a side note (This is not including the undervolt), When building my project using UE4 my cpu hits ~80C at times, should I be worried?
I read that a lot of laptops get 90C+ but even 80C has me a little worried. I'm still on stock paste mind you, haven't gotten around to repasting the TIM yet.

 

For stock paste I suppose not bad.

How does your black screen shutdown work? Does your PC just kind of freeze for half a sec then shut off? Or does it go "poof" like if you held down the power button? There's a difference between the two and it's quite big; if you get the former experience I might try OCing my CPU again and adding more voltage and seeing if it doesn't shut off black-screen-type. Either way my CPU sucks, but maybe it can actually handle 3.9 XD.

 

I'm pretty sure it hangs for a second, then goes to a black screen and restarts.

But as for the temps, are they alarming?
gta V gets up to ~70C when loading for some parts, but sticks at ~60-65C while actually playing

Also another side note, I just put windows 8.1 back on this lappy, and the whole thing seems to run a little bit cooler and quieter

 

Your temps are cooler than mine if you get 60-70c in GTA; I get ~70 and sometimes jumps to 80 for a bit.

If that's the case I'll try OCing again later. Maybe I'll set 1.1v and see how it likes that.

Boy, will I overheat in some games, I swear.

 

I think I just got a moderately good 4790. Though I wont run things such as prime95 because temps will easily jump to 90C-95C and that is definitely not ok with me

 

Well, I hope it works out well for you otherwise. But the temps might very well improve with some solid repasting. I'm pretty sure of that.

 

I really want to repaste, but they said if I f***ed anything up when I repasted then my warranty was voided..

I'm fairly confident in my ability to repaste, but its the whole 'what if something happens' that gets me lol

 

Well... unless you somehow short your motherboard while repasting... you don't have anything to worry about. It sounds scary, but really they mean "if you open it up and somehow break something inside, you're not covered".

 

You definitely got a GREAT chip. If you're in even in the ballpark of 3 digit undervolt you're doing good. I settled in at -70. Why don't you start at -100mv and roll with that until you repaste. Gelid extreme would probably help even more. Batman is almost foolproof repasting. Pull sink straight up and down.I'd be more worried about stripping screes if anything. Just make sure you have a good screwdriver.

 

True, that makes sense.

Alright I will try -100mV and test for stability. I will probably get around to repasting sometime after the first of the month.
Also since its a unified heat sync I'm assuming I have to repaste the GPU as well?

Do XTU settings stick if the program is closed?
What about if I restarted? Do I need to reopen xtu

I was thinking of getting a laptop cooler, can anyone recommend a good one for this beast? I was thinking one of the following:
Link 1
Link 2
Link 3

 

Yes.
Yes.
Yes. (current limit may reset, but default should be a very high number)
No.

 

-100mV seems to be great so far!

Edit: it also dropped the building temps (on UE4) from ~75C-85C to 70C-79C (usually around 75C-77C)
GTA: V gameplay at 60C-65C (Can reach 70C in the pause menu which is weird that it would get hotter when not updating things but *shrugs*)

 

It's possible your UE4 building temps dropped because your voltage increase allowed you to use current below a certain threshold that was causing excess heat. Undervolting is all nice and all, but if you drop voltages too low and need to draw too much current to compensate, temps can actually increase.

Of course, the lowest stable voltage is usually best, but since you have had problems on -120 and such, it seems like you were well below stable voltage the whole time, so maybe -100mV is good for you XD.