*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

Yup

 

Yea, Nvidia inspector is easiest. You won't even be able to move the sliders.

 

@Phawx & vitopl: do u remember the vbios version number? would be nice to know which revision it is exactly...

 

I have 84.04.3E.00.01 version.

 

Let y'all know when I get home. I could've sworn I could move memory clocks up. Didn't really play around with it much since there wasn't much to play with. I know I had at least one slider I could move.

 

It's probably memory clock offset, I can change this one only.

 

84.04.3E.00.01

 

ok, so its the same vbios in both cases... thx for the info!

 

Same numbers for me. Also locked before vbios prema flash

 

i have same vbios. did you all check the different p states? you can't overclock core on p0 state but i thnk you can the others. i can overclock memory and here's something really stupid. i can over volt 12.5 and 25mv only for what? to run my card hotter for nothing? yeah nvidia. bite me.

 

prema is providing the older vBios stock version on his website: https://biosmods.wordpress.com/stock/

970M coming up soon. ill link it in the batcave shortly

 

dammit. i bought my g. skill 999/28 for $265. i can get the 111111/31 4x8gb for $258 today. almost tempted but i'd probably lose too much selling my 1600 4x8gb ram.

 

I had to import my samsung chips from America to be sure to get the right ones, they were advertised as for the macbook lol.

 

the infamous 1600 chips that could be oced to 2133/2400?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Depends on your luck but mine do:



Yet they are rated for 1600 CL11 stock lol.

 

that. is. unbelieveable. *lol*

2133 at 10-10-10! my corsair sticks rated at 2133 can only do 10-11-10

and the trfc at 100?!?! mine can only do 235 with 278 being stock...what was samsung thinking? seriously...

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

i'll probably wait a while til nvidia wisens up and prema's mods are little more mature. that and my sager warranty runs out. thinking about buying extended, but honestly even though i say i will keep this laptop 5 years i'm tech geek and like to upgrade every 3. it was killing me having to wait for maxwell to make it's way out. glad i waited and saw the bat signal. this computer is the highest end i've ever owned, definitely fastest relative to whatever i've used before and just so freaking awesome i don't mind i blew out my budget overall bigtime. still waiting on samsung sm951 though so more money to spend, not mention a cheap reliable 128gb m.2 ssd to run linux on a virtual machine.

 

Yep and quad channel with a CR of 1. Bandwidth and latency are a bit overkill for the CPU but if it can do it then why not?



Reduced height, no fancy heat spreaders or stickers but they murder most memory out there for bandwidth and latencies

When setting the speed from stock, I up the speed multiplier and then tighten most timings from stock 1600mhz levels (I just up 3 of the sub timings by a step).

 

Hi guys, hope you don't mind me jumping in the thread here

I'm planning on buying the XMG U705.

I've been advised by many on the forum to wait another month for the AH-IPS display to become available.

Looking into this I had a quick look at the specifics for both screen options and I cannot see a great deal of difference between the two. I have however no great experience with screens or displays.

If I post the two specification sheets below, would some of you kind peeps advise me on if waiting and paying £40 more is worth the difference that the IPS would make.

Thank you in advance!

IPS - http://www.panelook.com/LP173WF4-SPF1_LG Display_17.3_LCM_parameter_21056.html

TN - http://www.panelook.com/N173HGE-L11_Innolux_17.3_LCM_parameter_12343.html

 

IPS displays give better contrast ratios and viewing angles (great for media watching and gaming in any position) where as TN panels tend to suffer less backlight bleed and have a faster response time making them better able to display faster images (especially if you run them above 60hz).

 

Thank you for the response Meaker
Generally speaking, how much difference would you notice in comparison. I know a lot of the time, people about the forum like to talk in extreme situations, pushing components to their max.

If I had the two screens next to each other on my desk, and I wasn't planning on playing on my side or upside down. Will there be a notable difference between the two displays in real terms?

 

Yes the differences I have noted do make a difference, I would still go for the IPS display myself for a notebook so you are not constantly trying to get the sweet spot viewing angle.

 

Thank you for your response. Its always hard to tell if there is a real world difference when all you've seen of the products are the tech specs

 

It's a totally fair question to ask, most people would find it worth waiting for the IPS option I think.

 

Depends on your needs also. Even though I got the bottom of the barrel chi mei innolux I think mine is pretty good. I probably would've picked IPS if it was available, but I was ready to RMA if I was less than dissatisfied. Your occupation or hobbies on this laptop could also be deciding factors between all the screen options.

 

Thanks for the reply pukemon,

For me it would be the "about power levels" of a desktop, with the ease of transport and compactness of a laptop. Something I can take away with me with out to much baggage.

Usage wise I'd be looking at running high end modern games on the best settings I can. Films and TV are also a consideration.

P.S.

Has anyone in this thread bought from a company in Germany known as CEG Hard Core Custom? They Offer the P771ZM at a very good rate. I was interested if they have a know rep about these parts http://www.ceg-hardcorecustom.com

 

@pukemon how did you verify your screen? Coming for a ips myself I was very hesitant but honestly I'm not at all dissatisfied with the panel in my computer. It's not the best by any means but has nearly zero light bleed and colors seem fairly accurate out of the box. Once I'm finished tweaking and playing I'll break out my meter and calibrate it and then I will know the delta out of the box for sure but still very satisfied. I would assume that we all have the same panels but I wouldn't mind opening it up again just to ease my curiosity.

 

Hardware ID in device manager.

 

What is the screen type that you have? Mine is listed as a CMO1720. I did a quick google search and couldn't find any hard info on color gamut or anything.

Edit: stumbled across some info stating that it is the same screen used in the GT70 which they found it to be pretty good. Still no hard value but I'm guessing prob 72% color gamut. Now that I'm writing this I'm starting to remember a discussion about this earlier in the thread. Maybe I'll dive back in and re read it all.

 

this is the same screen
http://www.notebookcheck.net/One-K73-5N-Clevo-P771ZM-Notebook-Review.135088.0.html
this is the lg ips one
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Acer-Aspire-V17-Nitro-VN7-791G-759Q-Notebook-Review.126701.0.html

 

Reading over that I may be the only one but not very impressed by the ips screen. I don't see any numbers making it worth the additional cost. When I put my meter on it I'll know more but as of now the only thing I don't like is the gamma is a little higher than I prefer but not a deal breaker.

Edit: also not sure what software they used for calibration or if they used an auto cal like that found in the software package for the i1d3 meter but I have found they produce sub par results. I'll use hCFR and profile my i1d3 to an i1 pro and see what I can come up with doing a manual calibration. I'll be excited when computer screens have simplified adjustments that modern tvs have. I personally prefer bt1886 and unless I'm missing something there is lack of gamma control to allow the screen to match the power curve.

 

there are a lot of reviewers for notebookcheck, and they may not all have the same equipment, so I can't say for sure. They are probably good enough for ballpark results though. So yes, the IPS and the TN screen are very close in terms of capabilities, with the IPS having slightly higher gamut and ofc. better viewing angles. But I too decided, that probably the TN will be good enough for me... (though it is a step down from my current screen)

 

For me color accuracy is just a preference. Since all of my tvs are calibrated looking at an I calibrated screen makes me anxious to fix it haha. It's almost a curse. As I watch I tend to start viewing the screen from a meter point of view. With that said secondary colors seem fairly accurate with an over saturation and hue a little high on blue but not terrible. Greyscale seems pretty even which seems like they are shooting for a gamma of 2.2 but missed the mark a bit. I can immediately tell that the luminance value for the 0-40% white scale is much higher and 80-100% exhibits too much blue. For most people this isn't a problem since tvs do the same thing. They will add a bit of blue to make people think the tv is much brighter than it is. Actually most people think a true white looks dull. All and all I'm fairly happy with the screen. I will say this is my first matte screen so I do/did have to do some adjusting to it but I kinda like it now. Viewing angles could be better but all of my work is done directly in front of screen so that's a non factor.

 

I'm having a very strange issue with my computer. I will close the lid and the computer will go to sleep. I open the lid and press the power button and the power light will light up but the screen will remain blank. Once it gets to the password input screen on windows 8 it will flash on and show you the screen for a second then the power light will go back off and screen go blank. Pressing the power button again and within a second will display the password input screen and everything will work perfectly. I've had this issue since day one but figured reinstalling drivers etc would fix it and it hasn't. I've tried the drivers on the website and disc both do the same. Should I send the computer off or is there an easy fix for this? I've went through the "change what closing the lid" does and no setting rectifies the issue.

 

Just open lid. Shouldn't have to hit power. You may be putting it back into standby by hitting power you open.

 

Sorry I guess I should have stated that opening the lid does not do anything. I get no response from the computer whatsoever without touching the power button.

 

Go back through your options on your power profile and default them and try.

 

I prefer setting my options so that closing the lid does nothing, tapping the power button goes to sleep, long pressing the power button turns off. U can try the same, and see if the issue is going to sleep or the fault is elsewhere.

 

Unfortunately guys I have tried all options under power profile. I've even changed profiles just to see if that did anything and adjusted those settings as well. It's very odd. It's like it doesn't recognize the lid is opened but yet recognizes the lid is closed. I would blame it on a bad sensor but changing it to sleep by short press and awake the same way produces the same results. It is the act of sleep that is causing the problem. Do you guys think this is a hardware problem?

 

Could be a driver problem.

 

It could be and that's what I thought at first. The only issue is I have reinstalled the driver from the disk and from the website. If it is a driver problem then I'm not sure I can fix it.

Edit: I have done s clean install of windows twice and it occurred both times. I am also certain I am following the correct driver order also.

 

My first ssd, an Intel 320 160gb would not let me put my computer into standby. It was a common problem across different platforms. Thing is on same computers some people would have it and some not. There was not a goto fix for it. Perhaps your ssd? What are you using?

 

Sorry I can't help you more... I just remember reading some stuff about black screen errors after waking up... Is there a button that can turn the backlighting on/off? If that doesn't work, I'm really out of ideas. I occasionally get black screens after waking up, but when I do I don't even get a flicker on it. (it also is fairly rare, and my graphics card is on it's last legs anyway)

 

I'm using a brand new 850 pro I bought specifically for batman. Unfortunately inside all I have is that and the 1tb HdD it came with. I'm planning on getting another 850 pro later but I really hope that's not the case as I can see the troubleshooting would be a nightmare haha

 

I have the P770Zm all setup, will admit the audio is much improved over the P150EM.

Anyway, I don't have the drivers/software for the fingerprint reader. Anyone got it working on W8.1?

 

I'm using two 850pro's also. Did you try setting your power profile to default setting and testing?

 

Will admit? Damn best audio on a laptop ever. EVA! J/k. But definitely best audio I've personally heard from a laptop.

 

Believe the best is still on the MSI. But this is certainly better than what I have heard between Asus, Lenovo, Samsung, Sony, Clevo and Apple laptops.

 

Also my 980M is vBIOS OC locked.

 

Yeah I have. I'm going to try and wipe the computer . I just finished getting everything the way I like it too. Then install on the HHD and see what happens.