*** Official Clevo P67xRP6-G/P67xRS-G (Sager NP8172/8173) Owner's Lounge ***

Try unclipping the bezel in the corner you have the bleed. I also had a big spot in one corner (top left). In my case it was just one of the "clicks" producing the bleed, it's probably the same in yours.

 

Thanks

Also hopefully my last question: So if I get a 1TB HDD and that Samsung Evo SSD as my second that would work well?
And are SSHD drives unreliable?

 

What you want to do is get the Samsung SSD, using the Data Migration software Samsung has clone the operating system (Windows) from the 1Tb spinning hard drive to the SSD. It works fast and great. Then format the 1Tb drive and that is now your drive for data, videos, pics, music, games that don't need to load fast, etc.

That's what I have done to every laptop I've owned or worked on for family/friends. The laptop boots up so much faster, programs on the SSD load much faster.

Sam

 

This still works even with the new thing that windows 10 does to a drive on install?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Oh god that all sounds very complicated lol! Im terrible with computers other than for gaming haha.

So you wouldnt recommend an SSHD? someone said they were unreliable

 

If you're talking about the Seagate drives with the 8Gb of flash cache memory they aren't any faster. All they are is a regular spinning hard drive that has some flash memory to store frequently used data. I had a dell i7559 laptop that came with one of those Seagate 1Tb SSHD. As it also had a M.2 slot I got a samsung 850 EVO 256Gb M.2, made it the boot drive by cloning it from the 1Tb with Samsung's Data Migration software ( yes it works fine with Windows 10 baytotheapple) then just reformatted the 1Tb drive and made it the D: drive.

Sam

 

Good to know. Been watching prices for 512 GB or 1 TB SSD and want to copy over OS instead of spending hours removing telemetry from win10

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Is there a guide to doing that? Im literally a complete idiot when it comes to anything to technical other than finding a good gaming laptop to game on lol...

 

There are probably some YouTube videos, I'm guessing plenty of techie web sites have info/guides, it is fairly easy. Samsung's Data Migration is very easy to use but only works if you're cloning to a Samsung drive.

Sam

 

The Crucial MX300 series are great buys. They use the same memory as the Samsung EVOs, are usually a third less the cost of the Samsungs. I got a couple of the 525Gb (formats to 486Gb) for $120 each on Newegg recently, price is still the same I believe.

Sam

 

Actually if you can use a screwdriver, be patient, go slow, you can do it. The biggest thing is -are you comfortable taking the laptop apart yourself? Have any techie friends willing to take an hour to help?

Sam

 

Samsung 850 EVO 500GB as of right now is only $115 and $250 for the the 1TB one. That's one hell of a steal.

 

Um kinda I guess....so im switching them?

 

Details on how to do that?

 

$115 where? I see $130 on Amazon...

 

Watch this:

 

I'm assuming you're buying the laptop with the 1Tb drive, then buying the SSD separately? here's what I did to the Dell i7559 I bought last year. It came with a 1Tb Hard Drive. The laptop had an open M.2 slot, so I bought a Samsung 850 EVO 256Gb M.2 SSD. Took the bottom cover off, installed the samsung M.2 (1Tb still installed in laptop), power up laptop, went into BIOS to make sure SSD was seen, booted into windows, downloaded and installed Samsung's Data Migration software, pointed it to the source and target drives and let it clone the 1Tb to the SSD. When it was done I powered off laptop, removed 1Tb drive, booted into the BIOS, set the SSD as the boot drive, saved and booted into Windows. Once in Windows, checked to make sure programs ran OK and I'm done.

Now I have some 2.5" USB external drive enclosures so I put the 1Tb in one, connected it to a computer and wiped out the old partitions, created a new one formatted it then reinstalled it back into the laptop as the 2nd drive (SSD is C:, 1Tb is D). You could do the same with it still in the laptop, just make sure the SSD is the boot device selected in the BIOS as the 1Tb will still be able to act as the boot drive until you switch that, then once in Windows you can wipe out the partitions, create new one and format it under Disk Management.

If all that seems too involved for you try and find a techie friend to help. Shouldn't take more than an hour. If you live near southeast new hampshire, PM me.

Sam

 

Hi,
I am new to the forum. I'll be getting my P670rp6 in a day or so. I have little experience upgrading laptops. I am going to add memory but have been unable to find any videos or screen shots on removing the back cover. Does anyone know if they exist?
I'm sure I'll have tons more questions moving forward. Thanks in advance for your help and patience with this 'old noob'

 

Sale ended quickly. You can watch here for upcoming deals. I expect more over the next few weeks.

 

Here is the service manual, which has pictures of what you'll need to remove to get at what's under the bottom cover, as well as the keyboard.

 

Anyone else's fans acting up? I go into a game and it turns up to about 75%, and when I exit it goes whisper-quiet... doesn't seem right. On the plus side, all my display issues with it turning off are gone! I can live with the light bleed.

 

Fans will spin up under load due to the power consumption being around 10-15x higher than idle.

 

Interesting. Usually it tapered out though to continue dissipating heat rather than a complete stop.

 

Heat built up in the chassis will make the system stay warmer than when you first start it and it is cold.

 

Precisely, in previous occasions the fan would still be on a while after. Not that I'm complaining, it just seems abnormal.

 

Thermal energy is easily generated but much more of a pain to remove

 

Notice that on Amazon and Eluktronics sites the P670RS-G are currently unavailable. Model phase out?

Sam

 

You would need to keep an eye on more than one reseller usually.

 

Hello guys, I am using a Medion X7847 (P670RP6-M) with 1060 and i5-6300HQ connected to a Dell S2415H through HDMI and I run accross an annoying problem.

Toggling fullscreen on the browsers (Chrome, Edge) simply returns a black screen on all webapages, youtube videos included. Audio works fine and the mouse pointer appears normally and is changing to a finger when placed where a link is supposed to be. Everything appears fine when I toggle fullscreen off. The problem happens only with MS Hybrid selected and not discrete. Any ideas?

On a different note, this is my first gaming notebook but are the fans supposed to be so loud? I can almost hear them through my earphones when game audio happens to be low. Granted, they are not as close to the full loudness that I get when I hit Fn+1 but still... On the other hand even after a lot of hours playing Rise of the Tomb Raider with everything maxed, GPU temp stayed in the 60s but I still don't know if that high volume is to be expected.

 

Try uninstalling your Intel drivers and installing the latest ones. I couldn't tell you about the fans since you can't really describe sound levels well, use a dB meter. I'm betting your fans are normal, definitely nt going to sound like an ultrabook.

Speaking of fans, while doing light tasks like typing this post, the fans are maybe 10%. If I change the backlights, it goes silent. Thought this was fixed...Oh, how I loathe Clevo's software.

 

BF1 crashes whenever I change refresh from 75Hz to 100Hz. It's a shame, but it's incredible to see how good this game is. At least in the first few seconds of the opening in ultra before it crashed, I got a locked 75.

 

I´m sure everyone is having a hard time keeping the P6 models in stock, they just fly out like crazy!

 

Thanks, I tried that and didn't work initially, after a couple attempts installing and uninstalling by different means, it works. Is there a way to see which gpu is active at any particular moment? I am afraid I just deactivated the 530 and since I am sometimes on battery that might be an issue.

 

Yes, there's an icon in the notification tray that's a big "G" and if you hover over it'll say whether you're using the discrete card or MSHybrid (both of them ready to be active depending on performance demands) You can also check in CCC in the GPU Switch area:

 

That weird, even though my laptop shuts itselfs down (RMA'd), I still get the 100Hz on BF1 on Ultra. I can tell it's 100Hz since my old toaster's screen is OC'd to 100Hz and it's a huge difference.

 

If I turn VSync off I can get well above 100 in most scenes but there's horrible tearing. GSync doesn't really make a difference.

 

Did you set the G-Sync option to 100Hz? I remember there is an option in the Nvidia Control Panel thingy. I would send a screenshot, but laptop is currently not on my hands Also, did you set your V-sync option in General settings to Fast? I heard that it's really good for high framerates.

 

Haven't seen that option, but I just tried changing to 100Hz in game and it did! No idea why it wasn't working. Got really nice FPS, this thing is amazing. VSync is application defined in control panel, there's settings in-game for that?

 

Found a screenshot. But going to sleep now but I hope this helps you!

"basically this tehnology is made for people who run games above monitor refresh rate and are heavy tearing if they turn on vsync they get lag(latency) so for someone who doesnt care about wasted FPS like a pro gamer he turns on FastSync you render 200 fps in Dota2 or League even if your monitor is only 60hz or 120hz and get low latency and NO tearing" *quoted from someone at LTT forums.

 

That's what I thought it was, thanks. Might be better to just turn VSync off though and just have GSync.

And sweet dreams lol

 

Basically you are choosing what the machine does beyond the refresh rate. Either lock it or no lock which has the usual downsides. These are reduced for higher refresh rate panels however.

 

null

 

What's with this display flicker? Only happens in games. https://streamable.com/o4h6

 

Does it happen in both optimus (hybrid) and dedicated mode?

 

Have not checked yet, but I will say that it does not happen in windowed mode, at least on Watch_Dogs.

 

I was planning on pulling the trigger on a Sager 8173 but can't find anyone offering the 6820hk anymore, anyone know whats up?
Also is the only difference between with special version the factory use of IC paste for $100 more??

This will be a dual duty gamer/surfer machine and I can't find any battery rundown results, what are y'all averaging when wifi surfing? Hoping for at least 4 hours, getting about 45 minutes on power save profile now on my 4 year old np9170... Thanks!

 

Where are you looking? Have you tried GentechPC, XoticPC, LPC-Digital etc? One of the 3 should have it!

 

Anybody selling Sager models are going to have the same core specs (at least for what is built and upgraded at Sager). Right now, that processor isn't available on that model. I haven't heard of a date it might be coming back though.

 

Thanks, Pat. I was able to find a Clevo 670rs with that option at AVADirect, but part of me still likes the Sagers. Sounds like a reason to wait for Kaby Lake, even though the rumored performance bump is minimal. Hoping to hear of some new models after CES.

 

We will have to wait and see, gains can depend on the frequencies involved and how sweetspots have moved as well as IPC.