***The Official MSI GT83VR Titan SLI Owner's Lounge (NVIDIA GTX-1080's)***

I want to say it's do-able if you know how to mod the IRST ROM and be able to flash the BIOS with it.

 

I do not. Lol


Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

Seems I am joining the club... GT83VR Titan SLI-024 factory refurbished for $2999 plus $30 shipping.
Now let's hope that MSI is a good refurbish-er.
Wish me luck...

Is there any modding company in the NYC or Boston area that would delid the processor and apply LM for a fee?

 

Is that a 1070 SLI or 1080 SLI ?

If that's a 1080, you could probably make a pretty penny selling the 2nd slave 1080 card for $1,000 on ebay, and then just TDP modding your first video card to 250W (use the 1080 "Preset" button on the 1080 vbios in the Pascal Bios Editor, set a TDP range of 200W-250W, force flash it with the SPI programmer, 1.8v adapter, Pomona 5250 clip and male to female jumper cables, and have at thee).

If that CPU is a 6920HQ rather than a 6820HK, you're going to be limited to 45W TDP anyway (the only way to bypass this is to use the unlocked bios and set the NEGATIVE IMON OFFSET to -31999, which should give you another 15W TDP to work with. I have no idea why anyone would include a HQ processor with a 1080 GTX, much less an *SLI* system? Those video cards are going to be crying for CPU power.

 

Who is the person "Ori" from Amazon who is having issues with getting stuck at the MSI logo?

 

Laptop CPU's like MSI uses for their consumer / gaming laptops don't have IHS's to "delid" they are already bare die's

Congratulations on your new GT83!!

It's got enough power as is, but you can use XTU to "unlock" a couple of extra multiplier's, I think it's limited to 40x, or 4.0ghz, but that's typical anyway for that era CPU.

Don't forget to undervolt a bit at stock and 40x, every little bit of CPU voltage drop (stable) reduces the thermal output, CPU temps, fan noise, etc.

First thing is to get a 32GB USB 3.0 flash drive to back up the recovery partition to make a bootable recovery flash drive.

Then install apps / games and get used to the laptop, run some benchmarks within the return period (usually 7 - 30 days) so if there are egregious thermal problems you can quickly return for a refund or another unit, usually this isn't the case.

If you wait to test past the easy return date, you will need to RMA to get repairs, and that can take weeks + shipping costs on your end.

Undervolt first before taking measurements!!

Read up on the MSI GT80 / GT83 / GT73 threads for owners feedback and solutions to common questions.

Have fun

 

Wow, that's an excellent deal for this configuration (normally $4600). But if it's refurbished the warranty is usually 90-day though.

 

Supposedly it is 180 days of warranty (but have to ship it to MSI). My credit card gives me another year of warranty through them - because it has a manufacturer provided warranty (yes, that includes manufacturer provided warranties on refurbs). Now I just hope that the heatsinks are working well and that the SSD does not have too much abuse on it already

 

1) Graphics card mod: I am confused here... why would I do that? Is there a link/article that describes that in more detail? Couldn't I try to force flash BOTH cards as described and use the 780watt power supply?
2) Limited to 45 TDP vs "another 15W TDP to work with" - doesn't that imply NOT undervolting? (I was advised to undervolt first). And I do not know why their most premium built is with 6920HQ instead of a HK... (which you seemingly also can find online as GT83VR TITAN SLI-069 or so) - the HQ version seems to be $200 more expensive than the HK.

As for overclocking...
I was trying to read through the many many posts in this threads and lots of links but have not found great success stories regarding overclocking? - but I am not done reading yet - the thread is overwhelmingly long by now Some claimed if I do not misunderstand them that a 6820HK they tried to overclock only got them 200Mhz more and that most run into throttling problems

 

Thread is here:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/mobile-pascal-tdp-tweaker-update-and-feedback-thread.806161/

And the reason your system doesn't come with an unlocked processor is because of reasons. Different regions, different configurations, why? I don't know. But an SLI system should NEVER Be paired with an HQ processor. Pairing a 1080 GTX with a HQ processor is already cancer enough.

Ok let me explain.
In MOST normal USA based configurations, the GT73VR (before the specs downgrade) and the GT83VR came with the 6820HK (6th gen) and 7820HK (7th gen) fully unlocked CPU's. The TDP is 45W but can be overridden, and you could overclock those CPU's to keep those GTX 1080's happy (the big point I keep mentioning that some people TOTALLY disregard is the MINIMUM FRAMERATES--it's the min framerates that affect the quality of your play, not the maximum framerates, so you need a CPU overclock to keep that up).

The graphics mod is important because the MXM video cards are heavily limited by the TDP restirctions. Increasing the TDP (requires a HW mod and a SPI programmer) can improve the FPS much more than a simple overclock of the card can. The GTX 1070 however gains more from increasing the TDP than the GTX 1080 because the 1070 TDP is greatly reduced compared to the desktop cards. I don't know anyone who has done the 1080 TDP mod on a MSI system. Only people who have modded MSI cards on CLEVO systems, and clevo 1080's.
While the MSI 1070 has been tested to be capable of handling 200W directly to the VRMs (It's been run for very short times at 262W), and the MSI GT73 can safely deliver 195W of power directly through the MXM port and the Clevo 870DM3 can deliver 262W of power, no one yet knows how much the MSI 1080 can draw even with the auxiliary power connector that the 1070 does not have. Going from 115W to 185-195W on a 1070 is safe on the GT73VR. Going from 200W to 270W on the GTX 1080 may NOT be safe--the MSI 1080 and Clevo 1080 maybe can handle it. Can the GT73VR or GT83VR mainboard handle it? No one knows. No one has tested this on this system--only on Clevos.

The MSI has some AC power cap shenanigans in the EC firmware. The GTX 1070 (single card) model is limited to 230W--exceed that and the CPU gets overridden power throttled by the EC forcibly. This can be circumvented by changing the power ID (in RWEverything, EC RAM, register E3) from the 1070 ID to the 1080 ID (usually you just increase the value stored in register E3 by 1). This is required for people using a TDP mod on a GTX 1070 on a MSI GT73VR.

The SLI version of the system (Exact same mainboard, exact same EC version, only difference is the 2nd MXM slot in use) has the exact same power ID (10 for 6th gen e.g. 6820HK, 90 for 7th gen e.g. 7820HK), but the maximum power allowed before the CPU gets throttled is doubled (460W instead of 230W). I have been unsuccessful in determining if it's a value in the EC RAM which allows this to be doubled or not; if it's the 2nd MXM slot being physically occupied, then there's no way to 'spoof' the EC into thinking it's occupied if it it's not.

As far as the GTX 1080 model (330W Power supply) and the SLI GTX 1080 model (660W), which use different mainboards, I do NOT know what happens if you exceed the power rating the system is specified for. I do not know what will happen if you exceed 660W on your system. Whether the EC will allow it or whether it will throttle the CPU. It will NOT throttle the video cards. Only the CPU. But as I said, no one has tested this, I don't have access to such hardware, nor can I tell you what will happen.

Since SLI is so badly supported these days anyway (the only people who want it are benchers), and a few people who have games that benefit from it, you can gain a LOT by selling the second video card for a LOT of money, and TDP modding the first to 250W. Why don't you test it yourself first?

Remove the slave videocard and then TDP mod the first one to 250W, and test it. Use a range of 200W-250W and in MSI afterburner (100%-200W, 250W will probably something like 125%), and compare the speed improvements. (remember in the pascal bios editor, to open the 1080 vbios, and click the "Preset" button first!). Then you will see if doing the TDP mod on one videocard and selling the 2nd card is worth it.

To mod the TDP on the videocards, you need the following items:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHH65T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DC74A9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KYK2DR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DZC36GY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Again, this is your laptop. It's your tool. You are free to do what you want with it. You can test it, tweak it, power mod it, or just leave it stock and enjoy it. But remember something. You only live once. ou get one shot at life. Enjoy it.

 

Wow ... that's a lot of stuff. As for the "most normal USA configurations" - it is a US based refurb and I assume it is a fairly normal built.
I could try to buy a GTV83VR with the 6820HK and GTX1070 for $1900 and make a Frankenstein moving the GTX1080 to the other notebook and vice versa.

As for the 6820HK vs 6920HQ - there are some posts that claim that the silicon for the 6820HK tested worse than for the 6920HQ - but not sure if I misunderstood that.

Lucky for me gaming is not my main use case but software developing is (VR, Mixed Reality) and I do travel a lot and need to be able to do the demo of what was built on the road. The scenarios I target will hopefully not be so CPU bound. Main function of the notebook is to be able to go in a piece of luggage on a plane more easily than carrying a desktop box and still have high performance.

I would enjoy hacking the system and unlocking it further - but for now I guess I will stick with what it provides I don't think I want to say bye-bye to my warranty right away.

 

I would not get a 6820HK system at this point in time if you were buying new. The 7820HK overclocks quite a bit better. My opinion is to either get that, or wait for the 6 core systems to come out and grab one of those. The 6820HK was known to come from atrociously bad bins. The 7820HK didn't fare much better, but the master silicon itself was better binned, so you get better overall results with the 7820HK.

The bin system was something like:
1) 7700K (top bin).
2) 7700 (failed 7700K bins)
3) 7820HK (failed 7700 bins)
4) (some UV CPU or other low tier kaby lake bin here)
5) 7700HQ (trash tier bin).

Unknown where the 7820HQ and 7920HQ fit in here.

If you do wind up getting a GTX 1070+7820HK configuration and TDP modding it (the GT73VR can handle 185W directly through the MXM slot, but I would highly recommend you repad the VRM's with arctic (1mm) thermal pads, and repaste the GPU, you need to have the 330W PSU available, and in order to avoid the "230W CPU throttling EC limit" (Power limit 2 CPU throttling if 230W is bypassed), you need to change the powerID to the GTX 1080 ID. (for 6820hk systems, this is a value of "11" in EC RAM register E3 for 7820HK systems, this is a value of 91 in register E3. Takes 3 clicks to change that in RWEverything. You can also write your own batch file and .RW configuration together, to change it each boot by running a .bat file.

The MSI cancer firmware imposes power restrictions based on the video card that is installed and detected at POST time, if the MSI mainboard allows multiple video card configurations (the MS-17A1 and MS-17A2, and whatever is used in the GT83VR, are the only ones which allow that). A simple EC RAM register change as above can bypass that. No one on these forums has tested if the CPU gets throttled if 330W is exceeded on a 1080 system, or 460W on a 1070 SLI system, or 660W on a 1080 SLI system.

 

I am not buying new as I pointed out. I am buying refurbished.
The 7820HK systems I could find are over $1000 more expensive (even refurbished). I have not seen any 7xxx system with GTX1080 SLI to go for $3000 or with GTX1070 SLI to go for less than $2000 - which is the range I am buying for.
I would have been able to find a 7820HK and GTX1080 SLI system probably for $4200+

 

I have been unable to find any information yet on the startup keys/boot keys - other than that "del" gets me into BIOS... but how about "diagnostics/self test", "recovery", "boot selection" (not permanent boot sequence change but just one-off-boot selection)?
Any hint? I tried various Fkeys, searched around... nothing yet.

 

Besides the DEL key (Enter BIOS), there's F11 for Boot Menu.
MSI does not have diagnostics/self-test/recovery functions tied to any hotkeys.

 

I am looking into Thunderbolt 3 dual screen adapters / docking stations?
Does anybody have experience (positive) with adapters like this with the GT83VR?

Docking station with dual displayport/hdmi:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-3-0-Docking-Station/dp/B074VKW195

Dual displayport Thunderbolt adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Compatible-Supports/dp/B01F81EIBC

 

Sorry to bombard the forum with questions... so I have my GT83VR here, updated to the latest Windows 10 (Fall Creator's update), updated Nvidia drivers, tried to run the "Heaven Benchmark" that seems to have been preinstalled... but receive tons of crashes in any DX11 tests. No overclocking or any other shenanigans done.
Feel discouraged - or is that a known issue.
What's the best "all around" free diagnostic/test/benchmark you can recommend in November 2017?

 

6920HQ and GTX1080-SLI combination here. trying to improve performance (as in speed, but also thermal) at first without any hardware mods or repasting/thermal pads (I only did that twice years and years ago and never liked it, never felt I was good at it).
Searching the forums for keywords so far did not get me far. Overclocking tips seem to be sprinkled around and what I read about is not really getting me started well.
Any reading recommended for this type of notebook?
Overclocking with Dragon Center, installed latest version - I see different settings in "Turbo" compared to what I see in a YouTube video - even though it is the same hardware configuration.
I do not see multipliers per active core count, only see "Core Clock Offset" and "VRAM Clock Offset". Is there a different version I should be using?
What is the "unlocked BIOS" (well, in theory I know what it is, but I mean specifically for this notebook) that I hear a few people talking about and where to find it?
I found only two posts in another forum where the response was "direct message me". For the graphics card I understand that the VBIOS is a hard-mod, and not easy to do...
so I will leave the GTX1080 cards in peace for a bit.

CPU - Where am I at?
--------------------
Really could use a "guide to read through" about all this. I read probably over half of the 187 pages here in this thread (unfortunately at this time I am not sure what I read and what I did not ). But did not find what I need yet. Again, searching for keywords so far was not lucky (can you search "within thread only"??? still didnt find that option)
I tried playing around with XTU a bit. Currently I am at.
41x for 1 core (stock 38x)
39x for 2 cores (stock 36x)
38x for 3 cores (stock 35x)
37x for 4 cores (stock 34x)
as suggested, I tried to undervolt - -0.100 undervolting seems to run kinda stable. Though FireStrike crashed twice. I tried e.g. -0.185 but that resulted in crashes quickly -
even at stock speed. What are "good" undervolting numbers?
I did not touch the "reference clock" in XTU (99.5MHz) - should I?
And not sure what to do with Processor Core IccMax
And the "Turbo Boost Short Power Max Enable", "Turbo Boost Power Max", "Turbo Boost Short Power Max", "Turbo Boost Power Time Window" (interesting enough without the word "short" in the name).
Does still elude me if it is advisable to play with it. Interesting enough it seems it is set "stock" to 28 Seconds but XTU's slider rests on "0.250" seconds.
It does not help that the "help file" of XTU seems to be out of sync with the application (seems to describe an older version?).
I didn't touch the "Cache" and "Other" section at all. (should I?)
I noticed that XTU sometimes seems to act a bit weird with some values when you switch around between Basic Tuning and Advanced tuning... e.g. the "System Agent IccMax" was 12.00 A, and suddenly the proposed value was displayed as 105.00 A (which happnes to be the "Cache IccMax").
I am uploading what I "see" in XTU and would appreciate anybody who can chime in into what settings worked for you (balance between more performance and no throttling).
Again, happy to read earlier stuff, but I really (maybe just bad luck browsing through the 187 pages) did not find things that seemed "actionable" to try.

I do not want to be spoon fed, but at this time I do not know where to continue researching effectively.


btw. where is the 0.250 seconds Turbo Boost Power Time Window "at Boot" coming from? Just to make sure that a system boots stable?

GPU:
----
I did not play with MSI Afterburner yet. Wanted to get the CPU maxed out first as many suggested that the CPU is underpowered in many scenarios compared to the GPU.
A suggested link to "best practices" on order of things to modify would be highly appreciated.

 

That CPU is locked. The core ratios cannot be increased past the default settings (41-37), and turbo time settings don't matter and turbo power limits cannot be increased past TDP except for 28 seconds.

 

Thank you for your response.

Where do I find an unlocked BIOS (I think you were referring to that in an earlier post) to increase the TDP?

Now, both Dragon Center and XTU allow modifications of the other values... and they seem to result in something.

You would assume that XTU would not offer settings that have no effect?
You wrote "default settings (41-37)", those numbers are not the default settings if I read it right. So, yes, I understand the 6920HQ is locked - still it seems that what can be done differs a bit from what I read in different sources (and there are subtle differences on how different sources describe it) - trying to find a good source..

 

You can't unlock the TDP on a locked CPU.

 

The top end HQ CPU's in the GT80 series have unlocked multiplier, it's limited in OC ability without other unlocked options, like power limits - you can check what is adjustable in XTU. You can't unlock the power limits, but you can do a few things to tune the CPU.

XTU will only have sliders or switches or boxes for editing for items the CPU supports - it's made by Intel so they have open controls available for each CPU.

Some of the newer GT8X laptops have BIOS settings for OC'ing, changing the multiplier, so if you haven't been in the BIOS check that out too. It's easier to tune it in XTU first and then you can set the multipliers and undervolt in BIOS - negative offset is tricky in the BIOS maybe someone that's done it can post how they did it.

Svet has an BIOS unlock and unlocked BIOS for GT8X, look him up on the MSI Forums.

MSI Global English Forum > MSI GAMING > GAMING Notebooks > Private Custom Modified BIOS'ses & EC-FW
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?board=51.0

Post there or PM Svet directly asking for the unlock code and unlocked BIOS for your model, he will want a donation, which is up to you for amount.

I OC'd my 5950HQ to 4.0ghz stable day to day and 4.1ghz/4.2ghz OC for benchmarking - they required positive voltage offset added to be stable and naturally ran hotter than undervolted speeds.

You can also set a multiplier like 3.5ghz or 3.6ghz on all 4 cores and that should run without power throttling on long CPU jobs - I used that with a larger undervolt than stock speed for batch jobs. For me 3.5ghz was best. That's the limit for 45w TDP power limit.

There is flexibility for tuning your HQ CPU, far more so than the 6700HQ which only lets you do undervolting, for example.

Have fun

 

Thanks for responding ... But two of your quotes contradict themselves a bit, or what do I misunderstand there?

 

Hi everyone - I am slowly going crazy .

Got myself the MSI Gt83 6RF (1070 sli + i7 6820hk). All good until I've tried to enable sli and play games and laptop will keep on restarting itself with SLI enabled just 30 seconds after starting a game (dota 2, pubg, tera online, black desert online).

They all work fine with sli disabled.

I checked to see if both gpus are being recognized. GPU Z says they're both there and it also mentions (SLI ENABLED - HIGH BANDWIDTH).

I cannot seem to be able to keep SLI enabled - I have tried everything:
-keeping CPU/GPU clocks stock
-using different nvidia drivers, I ve used pretty much all versions since 373 (about 25 installations!)

I am using windows 10 64 bit (which I am not a big fan of but msi hasn't got drivers for win 7).

Temps are all good on both sli/single gpu. Monitored temps just before system restarts and it is well within the 75C area.

Could this issue be OS related?

I have both power bricks plugged in. Was thinking that perhaps 2x330W isnt enough...was thinking I may need the allmighty Eurocom 780W adapter which has same 4 pin plug.

Runnin out of ideas.

Anyone here that had the same issue? Please let me know how to fix this.

I am about to rip this thing apart and check to see if the connecting ribbon is there and well connected - although GPUs are being recognized by the system so I'm not sure thats the issue.

Thanks.

 

Sounds like one of your cards is dying or an issue with a mobo, the 2x330 should be enough as that's what I use.

The only thing I could think of is check the nvidia panel to make sure your power settings are set to adaptive or max performance.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

Fixed my own issue. It wasnt an actual issue just the way nvidia has the 2 gpus configured.

Had to change SLI Rendering mode from "Nvidia Recommended" to 1 of the 3 options: Single Card / 1rf / 2rf.

Now what i dont understand is: I have tried all these 3 options and pc doeesnt crash anymore....how come that in the same dropdown "Nvidia Recommended" crashes pc everytime I start a game.

Checked sli compatible games just to make sure and both gpus now working. Games that would give me 80 fps on 1 gpu now give me around 130 which is more than I wanted.

Fixed it by changing the Sli rendering mode from automated to any other option in the dropdown.

 

I just noticed that the NVME SSDs (Samsung 951) in Intel Raid are seemingly very slow... slow response rates (averaging 400-600 ms). I updated to the latest Intel RST driver. I see no options (not in BIOS either) to specifically select NVME anywhere, so I assume that Intel RST encapsulates that correctly. Disk is often at 100%. Norton Antivirus is uninstalled. Defender is deactivated...

I have other devices with NVME SSDs and they are blazing away... am I missing anything? A simple setting or an obvious thing to fix?

 

Hmmm, not sure do you have Xboost in msi dragon center still installed?

I had issues with my nvme due to it.

Also might be the drives themselves, I think they throttle after awhile.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

I would try a clean and reinstall of the drivers with DDU. Fixing a crash issue by not using the nvidia determined "best" sli profile across multiple games isn't normal at all, it's a symptom not a cause...

 

Does anybody have the partitioning information for the D: drive available on 1TB D: drive configurations? (For the HDD).
a) is it GPT or MBR?
b) which exact(!) partitions are there? Can someone export the configuration in a tool that is "reimportable"? I accidentally removed all partitions when clicking on "storage spaces" in Windows settings and want to restore the original setup.

 

Looks like MSI posted an update to the Intel Management Engine (Intel ME FW Update Tool) which fixes issue Intel SA-00086. Article: https://www.theregister.co.uk/2017/11/20/intel_flags_firmware_flaws
Here is a link to the vulnerability detection tool. https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/27150
After patching I show clean.

 

hi guys, i might buy this laptop, can anyone provide me with real temperatures this mashine is running on? i find it extreemly hard to find out -.- i read on few places GPU temps are not same, 1 runs at 70, other 85... cpu hits nearly 100c, other one say its in 85 area... can someone provide me with temps while playing games from gpu and cpu? also idle temps would be nice too, to drop in.


im asking for temp info on mashine that is NOT overclocked, just to make that clear

 

Mine runs anywhere between 45c on idle to 90c under extended gaming load.

My gpu's generally top out at 95c under heavy load. The master usually peaks first and the slave lurking usually about 5-10c behind.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

90c on what? GPU's, CPU or both? that temps scare me a bit :/ i want mashine to last me at least 5 years.. i had alienware 18 (with 880's) and i loved its temps, never above 73c on GPUs and CPU was even lower, but i returned it cause of throttle issues with cards. basicly im hoping to see same temps in GT83.

 

Those temps are probably with automatic fan settings. They won't reach 95C under load with manual 100% fan settings. Plus you can always repaste with better and fully safe thermal compound like Kryonaut too (Using liquid metal, which is conductive, unlike Kryonaut, however requires a lot more preparation, study, and insulation and protection (nail polish coats over SMD resistors OR Kapton / Super 33+ tape, and foam dam highly compressible cutout barriers around the silicon slugs to make sure any spare LM balls get trapped and never get on the PCB).

 

well damn, i thought gt83 had a better cooling, i dont like that temps at ALL -.- any other laptop feels crappy to me kinda..

your gt83 is with 1080's right?

@falkentyme

well, i aint really messing with that stuff that can **** my hardware if my hands get shaky xD

 

The GT83VR has fine cooling. IF it's used with single card (e.g. GT73VR).
The problem is, the GPU heatsink fan has to cool the first GPU, second GPU *AND* the second GPU's VRM's. This become a serious problem because then you only have one radiator cooling the first GPU and the second radiator cooling the second GPU AND SECOND GPU'S VRM's.

The first GPU's VRM's are routed to the CPU cooling fan (if it follows the layout of the GT73VR SLI (1070 only)).

So you have two hot running 1080's being cooled like this. Of course you're going to have heat problems so you need to re-paste. Such a setup requires THREE fans to avoid running hot (which only the P870 TM1 has now).


So that means--you need to re-paste.
Complaining about it won't do anythinig.

Or you can just buy the GT75VR and get the single card 1080 version (avoid the GT73EVR nerfed version of the GT73VR, as the CM238 version is no longer being sold; the HM175 version is branded as Gt73evr outside of USA, and branded GT73VR with certain number tags in USA).

Yes you won't get the cherry speed switches keyboard, but you will still get a per-key full RGB keyboard (not zones like the GT73 had), and the 1080 will have 6 heatpipes all to itself, and CPU fan will cool the VRM's.

Repasting won't do anything bad to your hardware as long as you don't have feet for hands, and don't static shock the system to death by working on carpet or something.

 

GT75VR has fine GPU cooling, but just 3 heat pipes and 1 radiator for CPU? not sure thats gonna work a lot better then gt83.

problem with gt83 is, its CPU shares radiators from both GPU's and its own mini fan has half size radiator, of the GPU's. and on top of that SLI kable goes directly over it and covering its intake xD the design... idk.. gt83 has everything i want but temps are huge drawback -.- even with repaste, how much would that lower the temps?

 

Repaste would lower the temps by as much as 10C, by making sure heat actually gets transferred. The stock paste that comes on most laptops is just bad.
Are you concerned about CPU temps or GPU temps?

CPU temps are easy to deal with. Just repaste with any decent non conductive thermal compound. then download a program called "MSI Silent Option" and set the custom CPU fan curves, because default fan curves, the CPU fans won't start to kick in until 80C. Or you can just use coolerboost at 100%. If you're not in a public library or study hall or something....

Repasting CPU is extremely easy. like...it takes longer to clean off the old paste than to remove and reassemble the heatsink. You can have the CPU heatsink off in less than 2 minutes, literally. On GT73VR, repasting is like this:

1) Unplug AC Adapter (ALWAYS), then open case, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CABLE <---always. always always.
2) unscrew and move the CPU fan to the side. Watch out for the antenna wires for the WLAN card; fan wires may disconnect those. If you need to reattach those, you can remove the wlan card and reattach main/aux after you finished repasting.
3) unscrew four CPU tension screws and remove heatsink and radiator.
4) clean heatsink and silicon of old thermal paste with 91% or better alcohol, or use Arcticlean (i don't know about goo-gone, you can try that too but this stuff won't be baked on like what you see on some bad laptops or video cards bad pastes).
5) optional, but recommended: replace old thermal pads with Arctic 1mm thermal pads; cut to shape and trim. Arctic 1mm pad square is very large, and you get a LOT more pad than the super tiny fujipoly pads.
6) repaste CPU, thin even layer, spread with applicator fully around the slug, remount, reassemble heatsink and screws, reattach CPU fan, reattach WLAN.
7) plug in battery cable, then finish reassembling.


For SLI GPU's, you're ALWAYS going to be temp challenged, so repasting is an absolute MUST. You can also use the same Arctic 1mm pads for repadding GPU's too btw.

 

You could go with a P870 for better cooling in addition to having a whole lot more powerful CPU. My CPU was much cooler that than with a crazy high overclock, and GPUs we're also cooler. P870 is a stronger machine by every measurement.

 

Yes for the best cooling, you want to order the P870 TM1 with the VAPOR CHAMBER (the chamber used for SLI GPU's, but only with one GPU installed if you only want single GPU, or both if you want SLI), from HidEvolution. This way you will get the absolute best thermals. If you're absolutely concerned about heat, that's the way to go. You do NOT have to buy SLI; there are lot of people in the Pascal V thread over on overclock.net who are saying they gave up on SLI on their Titan X Pacals and Titan XPs all because of issues with SLI not working, and requiring Nvidia Inspector just to try to SLI working in games where it was busted. Decide what you're trying to buy. For me, I say get the best single card solution you can buy. For max power, get the 6 core 8700K with the P870 TM1 with vapor chamber upgrade. If you truly want to settle for a BGAbook, the MSI GT75VR is the best one you can buy right now. But I personally do not think that buying a 4 core CPU is smart now that 6 cores are out, AND buying a BGA 4 core .....yeah...

Just...like...you know that MSI is going to release a 6 core Titan as soon as the 8820HK is out, then you're going to feel sad.


The GT75VR does a good job at cooling a single video card, but it's still BGA trash, although MSI has a better keyboard and better screen than the Clevos. Even though Mr fox would grimace, the great Phoenix swears by his GT73VR precisely because of the quality of the screen, the nice keyboard, and the thermals that work out of the box, and he doesn't care about overclocking to 5 ghz. Although now that the GT73VR has been "nerfed", I would always choose the GT75VR. Especially for that per key RGB keyboard.

 

ok you know what? i will wait, buying something that costs little over 5000€ and after i receive it, i would have to do all that kind of work trying to handle its temps simply makes me give up on it stright away. i wasnt been updated last year or a bit longer about PC's at all but i guessed intel should release something soon, i was just thinking since its holidays now, prices are reduced, might be good idea to pick something up. seams SLI isnt the thing anymore at all. and about BGA, i feel ya, but we dont have much choice.. and i dislike clevo/sager design so much, yes it has everything nice setup inside but looks play the role too in my book.

im curently on some POS laptop, i wont even mention its specs out of shame .

thank you for ur time guys you have been very helpfull.

 

Just get a cheap ass throw away BGA laptop second hand and build yourself a wicked desktop. If the laptop stops working you can just toss it into a dumpster and get a new BGA turdbook from a place like Walmart for like $300. Lather, rinse, repeat. You can close the lid and use it as a heated mouse pad in the winter, or put it behind your back in your recliner and use it for a heating pad to loosen up those sore muscles. If you bury it in the yard with the exhaust ports down you can use the skinny end of it as a mud scraper to keep the soles of your shoes clean. If it gets really hot you can put some balls of masa on the keyboard, close the lid and viola... portable electronic tortilla press.

 

The good resellers will open the box, inspect, check operating temps, repaste/apply liquid metal (and delid in the case of the socket CPU Clevos like the P870) and have it covered under their warranty.

Unlike others who just slap a new shipping label on the box that comes from the factory.

 

I have the MSI GT-83VR SLI-055 Titan, with 1070s, 6820K, and 16GB ram. I am wanting to upgrade ram, by adding 2x8GB to the extra two sockets. I went to task manager-Performance, and it says i am running 2400 MHz, SODIMM. What RAM can I get that will be compatible with this? Does it have to be same manufacturer and part no, or just similar specs from any company? Thanks for the help!

 

This.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW6HBSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

If you can, always research the installed memory lineage, and find a match that you can buy, same make / model / size / speed. It usually exists, and it is usually cheap enough to not need to experiment with cheaper parts.

If you are looking to upgrade, maybe get the next size up in the same make / model / speed lineage, like move from 8GB to 16GB parts. Usually it's better to not mix sizes, so take out the old memory and install the new memory.

If you want to get the same size memory and fill empty slots to save money, that's fine too, just know that it's not required to fill empty slots first, you can replace the old smaller sized SODIMM's with larger ones too, which ever is easiest to do / buy for you. Sometimes the unfilled slots are hard to reach.

Please come back and let us know what you end up using and how it works

 

First thing you want to do is check whether you need more RAM as 16gb is plenty right now for 99.9% of people and also RAM prices are utterly crazy (and will continue to be until ~mid next year when more fabs are brought into production)

Windows task manager can be misleading since just because the OS fills it up caching random stuff it thinks you might use means something different from actually being full of working data and being "out of RAM".

It's always better to match the RAM because
A) some boards and laptops are finicky with different RAM brands/sizes/stick configuration etc - especially if you accidentally mix the sticks in each dual channel pair
B) the system always chooses the lowest common denominator SPD profile of all the sticks installed, so the extra spent on faster RAM is wasted when it's paired with slower in other slots.

Download and run CPUz
Go to memory tab
Memory details are there, search your retailer of choice for the RAM's part number.

 

Hey guys just wanted to share this with you all.

So I got myself the Gt83VR SLI (6th gen i7 6820HK and 1070s SLI) - now I got this about 2 months ago and i finally decided to repaste the CPU/GPU heatsinks due to very high temps while gaming. NON-OC'ed cpu/gpu would stay in the high 80s C sometimes reaching even 92-94 C and seeing that on a brand new gaming laptop ....scared me a little bit.

I decided to go for Grizzly Konductonaut and I also got myself some high temp resistant tape just to make sure I don't brick my cpu/gpus/motherboard by letting the compound get everywhere.
I studied this compound for quite some time now and was a bit scared at first as I did not want to do it on my own but I've owned gaming laptops for years now and would usually repaste the CPU/GPUs myself - but never did this with a compound that conducts electricity.

Needless to say I was in for a big surprise!

Temps dropped by a whopping 15C (YES 15C !!!!).

I can now overclock the CPU (which is the only OC setting I adjust when gaming - I use the MSI Shift thing and safely OC it to 4.1 ghz while gaming) - trying to get an unlocked bios so that I can control the OC through bios - no point doing it now - locked bios won't let me get past 4.1 ghz.

3 hr gaming session on intensive CPU/GPU games got me a max of 74 C on the GPUs (SLI ENABLED) and a max of 78 on the CPU - cooling was set on auto! Now this is what I call temp drops! (this is at normal room temperature of 24-26 C.

Just wanted to share all this with you.

Now mind you: you need to be careful with this thermal compound as it is quite liquid and you only need to apply a very small amount on both surfaces (both CPU/GPU and heat sink). You then make sure it is spread accordingly - I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH: make sure you apply a small amount otherwise it will get messy and if you are not careful you can brick your device!


My next adventure is to get an unlocked BIOS so that I can have full control on the CPU OCing limits. I am quite confident I got lucky with the silicone lottery on this one and want to try a stable 4.3 ghz OC - I've seen it done on Alienwares with same gen. i7 - I know this monster can do it - sadly bios is locked and won't let me go past 4.1 ghz.

Current stats on my MSI GT83VR 6TH Gen:
- i7-6820HK - Stable 4.1 GHZ (via MSI Shift Technology) - Max Temps: 78 C
- 100 HZ Panel (OC'ed from 60 Hz through nVidia Control Panel) - No Issues with this so far
- Stock GTX1070 SLI - Max Temps: 74 C (for some reason I do not want to OC the GPUs - these 2 GPUs are more than enough for any gaming needs)
- 2 x Samsung 500GB Evo Pci-E NVMe SSDs + Samsung 840 EVO SSD 1 TB

 

You can get higher than 4.1 ghz already. But you need to UNINSTALL dragon center. DC conflicts with the Bios and blocks settings, so you have to uninstall Dragon Center and just use the Bios.
You can easily "go" to 4.4 ghz with the existing stock Bios, but the system will probably not be stable. To gain full control, you will need to deal with the "IA AC DC loadline" setting, and get that from Auto down to a manual value (between 1-25, do NOT EVER, EVER go near the upper limits like higher than 250, EVER; Auto uses an estimated value of 210, and max is 6249. Going up there (like above 500) will probably blow out the mainboard).
Auto causes a LOT of excess heat and voltage and power draw, that isn't even reported accurately; its designed for "MSI basic users settings".

If you look up @sirgeorge 's old posts, he wrote a direct tutorial on how to unlock the Bios yourself. It's safe, but the problem is a setting called "Bios Lock" which is enabled by default. This option prevents you to overwrite the Bios APTIO capsule from windows. You need to go back to his old posts in the GT73VR section with those instructions. If you manage to follow his instructions, you can get easy access to manual voltage settings, change the IA AC DC loadline to 1 (to remove VID boosting) and see exactly what the actual VID is if you use adaptive vcore. Then you can set manual vcore to find your stable point. Setting IA AC DC loadline to 25 can help avoid excess Vdroop (vdroop cannot be measured on MSI laptops as there is no vcore sensor, so you cant see the actual real current voltage).

Anyway, the problem is the Bios Lock setting, which prevents you from unlocking your own Bios.

As I said, first find sirgeorge s post on the MSI GT73VR section.

You need to download the GT83VR Bios first, then use the tools he mentions (he had posted them to an upload site, idk if its still there though) to find the GUID with that setting. Since your Bios is different than the GT73VR Bios, the location of this "Bios Lock" GUID key will be different. you will need to substitute the keys so you find your option location. The overall method is the same, only the GUID locations will be different.

Once you do that, you take note of that key, follow the instructions, then boot to an EFI boot disk, still with the tools he lists and provides, so you can change that option to "enabled" directly through EFI (writing MSR registers).

That is the hard part.

Once you do that, then the easy part happens:

1) DO NOT EDIT THE FILE YOU DOWNLOADED FROM MSI, PERIOD, PERIOD.
2) use FPTW64.exe to dump your existing bios capsule with FPTW64.EXE -d MSIBios.bin -bios
3) use amibcp 5.01+ to open the file you dumped. Change all of the options you want to access to Supervisor (make sure to change the submenus also so they become visible)
4) then flash the changes back that you saved with FPTW64 again, like he instructed.