The Official MSI GT76 Titan Owners and Discussions Lounge

Hi everyone. Can someone with a 2080 super share their vbios with me? Looking to get some more power for my GE75

 

Now MSI GT76 will be available with 10th generation Intel i9-10900K (Z490) , RTX 2080 Super \ RTX 2070 Super, and 3200 memory. Details can be seen on the official website
https://www.msi.com/Laptop/GT76-Titan-10SX/Specification

 

Any word on desktop replacements? The 2080 super is limited to a 150-watt TDP and is on average 15% slower than the 200 watt 2080.

 

9sg wear 200watt gpu and 10sg wear 150watt gpu? Are u sure?

 

Yea that mean its 200 watt

 

So then it does have a 200-watt tdp? The few reviews I have seen so far said the initial 10SG has 150 watt 2080 S's.

 

It's hard to believe they will do that wrong.
The previous model will have 200watt and the newest 150 watt with similar gpu.
No reason they do that.

 

We have all seen much worse from the tech industry over the years.
Eh, either way, the performance between the 2080 and 2080 S will be negligible.

 

What reviews?

 

Wow sorry I didn't see this sooner Kevin. This forum is so dead I have only been visiting every few weeks.
Anyway, I said reviews but I should have said previews. Arstechnica and I believe Linus did previews on the next-gen GT76 laptops a few months ago and
150 watt GPUs were guessed at originally by both. Also, a Japanese website made the same claims last year or early 2020.

 

I'm not sure if it was asked already but does this laptop (the 9SG model) support XMP for 2666+ MHz memory? There are capable modules already (like Crucial Ballistix BL2K32G32C16S4B).

 

Not officially with an on\off setting, but ram timing\speed\voltages are all adjustable in the bios.

 

Yeah, I saw the options but will it work and don't brick itself if I set the parameters to match XMP profile? This is what I'd like to know. I wonder if anyone tried that. Not really fond of the idea of looking for the reset button somewhere on the motherboard. Guess I'd have to find that out myself.

 

That is correct. Not Officially. I am running 128gb @ 3000mhrz at 19Cast

 

Cool. What memory are you using?

 

For me I'm using the factory-installed memory. Running 2800 MHz. 16-16-16.

 

Not totally sure myself if it will show an XMP option with specific RAM, but I was able to manually OC the stock Samsung 2x32GB (dual-rank) 2666MHz 19-19-19-43 to 3000MHz (changed base freq. from 133.33MHz to 100MHz and ratio/mult. set to 30x) with the same timings and 1.25V. It's been stable and I have not noticed any corruption or errors in Windows. You need to enable the hidden UEFI mode though with IIRC RShift + RCtrl + LAlt + F2 to access more advanced OC tuning and other deeper settings. I manually set VCCSA to 1050mV and IO to 950mV (both stock) to ensure that I would not get crazy high voltage that would damage the memory controller over time.

If the system fails to boot or just boot loops, then you can reset CMOS/UEFI by holding down the power button for 30 seconds. I had to do so a lot when trying to get my ram at 2933MHz with lower timings. It was a PITA, so I just settled for the OC I have above for the time being.

 

When already in BIOS or during the initial boot?

Huh, nice, I didn't know about this trick. Though maybe it's described in the manual, can't remember. Thanks. Now it worth trying OC.

 

You do the key combo when already in the UEFI/BIOS. You will see new tabs/options appear. Glad I could help!

 

Sorry for the late response. I am using Adata. They are rated at 2666hrz stock @ 19cast

 

Could anyone recommend an online store (North America or Europe) that can quickly ship the GT76 in stock configuration to the Middle East via FedEx/UPS/etc.? I have seen XoticPC and ExcaliberPC have stock, and I'm open to other options.

Also, are any of these stores currently dealing with so many orders that they're not shipping things out quickly enough?

 

If you are looking for a quick order shipment, XoticPC is NOT your place. They do not carry units in stock, despite what they say and you will be waiting for an undisclosed time according to my experiences with them. Look elsewhere.

 

ExcaliberPC it is then, unless someone suggests a European shop. Thanks for the warning!

 

I'm looking at the various customization options from HID. Would you recommend the "Gelid GC Extreme on CPU + Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut on GPU, and Fujipoly Extreme Thermal Pads on heat sensitive surfaces" cooling option? Or any other customization options?

 

With the money you're already spending? You might as well go all in on the cooling.

 

Caved and bought the Eurocom 780W AC adapter.

Plugged it in and*poof* just like that, all of the issues I was having have disappeared.

 

What issues were you having? Did you purchase from HID? I was looking at that adapter, it is mighty tempting... the standard cord is quite thick and inflexible.

 

I was having massive stuttering in games, and sometimes under load the laptop would show as going from AC to battery back and forth. I RMA'd once but they didn't replace the part that plugged into the laptop like I requested, which I knew was the issue. There was something wrong with the end of connector. If I pushed it in really hard my framerates would stabilize and everything was fine.

I ended up going past the 6 month warranty on the AC adapter and said **** it, I'm tired of not enjoying my machine. Went to Eurocom's website and put the 780W on my Paypal credit. 6 months no interest. Arrived in like three days via USPS. Hooked it up (big old boy) plugged it in, held my breath and ran 3DMark. Perfect run. Booted Death Stranding, everything fine. Smooth sailing ever since.

Btw if you do go for it DO NOT go through the eBay store. There you have to buy the Adapter and the GT76 cable separately, and it ends at $713.17 USD shipped, instead of $522 USD + shipping through the website.

 

I've encountered this issue before on my shunt modded GS75. This behavior is caused by the EC limiting the power drawn by the laptop.

 

Hi there.
I am having issues with my GT76 Titan 9SG, and after reading the last few posts, I was wondering if the issues I read about on this forum were the same issue or a different issue.

Basically, on the lowest graphics settings, I am constantly dropping frames when I play Overwatch. The frames go from maximum (290+) down to like 60-70 and back, constantly yo-yo'ing repeatedly.
I've tried the most common solutions, such as updating all drivers and scanning the game files, but nothing seems to correct this. I've even both reinstalled Windows 10 Pro and updated both the firmware and BIOS to the most recent versions (17H1EMS1.103 and E17H1IMS.10D) but nothing seems to help this.

While I'm not the most computer savy person ever, I've done a lot of debugging on this, and have tracked the issue to being due to either "Thermal Throttling" and/or "Power Limit Throttling" kicking in.
But... I highly doubt this is a true cooling problem as I have had HID Evolution apply both thermal paste and the Fuji* cooling pads to the PC before I bought it.

The issue occurs immediately after I start Overwatch and enter the Practice Range, and these problems occur the temperatures are barely 60 °C.
In addition, I noticed in "ThrottleStop," the "RING EDP OTHER" icon is always highlighted in yellow (it never goes away after clearing it), and the "CORE PL2" icon comes on and goes off repeatedly (also in yellow).
No temperatures are really hot, and nothing is red, so I'm baffled as to why this is occurring.

I am running with a 100% stock system: Nothing is under or overvolted or overclocked, and my Power Plan is already set to High Performance.
In Intel's Extreme Tuning Utility (which I only use to just help debug the issue), I noticed I'm getting no frame drops until either the "Thermal Throttling" or "Power Limit Throttling" flags are triggered on (and the Processor Frequency also briefly dips down to 798 MHz before returning back to normal when the stuttering occurs as well). Before this happens, everything is smooth as butter with no frame drops.

I will say that I too had an issue w/ the Battery not charging (on the old factory version of the BIOS it would be stuck at 52%) but after upgrading to version "10D," now the battery is able to charge completely.

I am posting this here, in case anyone can confirm from any of the above posters that this is the same issue you saw, and what the fix is for it.

I'm really desperate as I've tried everything (and blizzard's tech support tried to help me, but after telling me the obligatory "update your drivers," post dxdiag info," and "run this benchmark tool," they are now clueless).

Please help!

Thanks.

 

Open your FIVR window and post a screenshot, sounds like badly configured PL time and power limits, also XTU and TS is a big bad no no, because XTU will crap all the CPU registers..

 

FIVR window is here.

btw, I think I might have made changes to something a while back, in an attempt to fix this problem, so if something looks like it's not "Default" then that's why.

 

you answered your own question yourself . The processor frequency drops to 0.8 GHz. This is the reason for the fall in FPS. This can be caused by the power settings of Windows or Dragon Center.
You need to fix the processor frequency and get rid of frequency drops

 

So in my previous post, my FIVR image (which also shows the IETU graph) shows a Power Throttling instance where the Proc Frequency (the Gray colored line) did not change or dip at all.



https://postimg.cc/ThtVRRbs

 

Sorry, I use this monitoring option more. And it better shows all my frequency indicators in min and max values.
You need to make sure your power settings do not cause a drop in frequency.

 

Thanks! After using that, I found that indeed, at least 1 or 2 cores did dip down to 800 MHz for their "Min" value, and the other thing that sticks out to me is the max power of my GPU was 157W, but when I looked up the RTX 2080 specs, the internet says it's spec'ed for up to 215W, so maybe this isn't an issue.

In the pic here, I have also shown my Power settings (which again have the min proc value set to 98% and max value set to 99%).



So unless I'm missing some other power setting, (i.e. not in the pic I just posted in this message in Windows Power Options), I'm still scratching my head why the proc keeps dipping like that (and this processor dipping to 800 MHz thing only randomly happens when I'm playing game).

And I will admit, I am definitely not very smart when it comes to these kinds of things; hence why I am on these forums asking for anyone's help.

 

This may be due to the Dragon Center, as it manages the power settings. It may also be an unsuccessful version of Windows. Your processor power profiles in Dragon Center should be set for maximum performance. Although some just completely remove it. You can also try locking the frequency at Throttlestop. And as a last resort, you can completely disable the processor power saving technologies in the extended BIOS menu

 

Is this happening with other games?

 

Force 100% processor state in Windows power plan.

 

After switching Windows 10 Power settings to 100% for all values (one core actually dropped to 800 MHz as the "Min" value still), I played Warzone for a while, and while the FPS was constantly yo-yo'ing in there (even dropped as low as 23 FPS on all low-settings and I did verify the RTX2080 is the card used in the NVIDIA Control Panel, so it's not using the Integrated GPU), but not once did I see any Power Limit Throttle occur - so the Power Limit Throttling seems to only be occurring in Overwatch.
I think I'll try either a clean Windows reinstall or else just go back to doing yard work all the time.

 

Thanks to everyone for all of your help. I've reimaged my laptop and still saw the frequencies drop after doing so, which confirmed the issue wasn't related to anything I had installed, but with debugging something complex like this, I will agree that just changing 1 variable at a time is the best method as otherwise there's just too many moving parts and it gets real confusing real fast.

So after googling this, I found on "wintips" there's a bunch of other people having the same issue... and in 2020. After not seeing how to actually remove the battery from the GT76 Titan 9SG, I plugged everything back in and proceeded for a different method (registry tweak after creating a Restore Point).
So I was able to fix this by applying one of their tweaks to my registry in regedit (changing the intelppm value to "4").

Now, my processor isn't dropping in frequency at all.

Thanks again to everyone for your help, I appreciate all the input.

 

So this was a problem with Windows or drivers. What is your FPS situation, did this fix the problem?

 

After playing more today: No, the issue is NOT resolved: I'm still seeing the same behavior.

Figure 1: When I run Overwatch.exe the PL2 for CORE turns red, but only briefly (< 100ms) before going back to yellow.

After first downloading the MSI Dragon Center (from their website for the GT76 Titan) and running the "Battery Calibration" tool, now the battery is actually charged to "100%", so that can't be the problem.

And, frankly, I'm at a complete loss as to why this is still occurring. My only ideas are to downgrade both the firmware, EC, and BIOS back to the versions they were on when it was shipped from the factory even though there's more recent versions for this model on the MSI website.

I bought this laptop after being on a GTX 660M (60 Hz) / i7 for more than 7 years - so I guess the lesson-learned for me is to not buy the most top-of-the-line system until after it's been out for a while or just quit PC games all-together since I'm such a complete idiot.

 

Open Hardware Monitor does not report your minimum CPU speed correctly.
WRONG - It turns out that Open Hardware Monitor is correct.

Turn on the Log File option in ThrottleStop. Play a game for a while and when you are done, exit the game and exit ThrottleStop. The log file will be in the ThrottleStop / Logs folder. This will be an extremely accurate record of your CPU's performance, temperatures and any throttling problems. Attach it to your next post and I will have a look at it for you.

Before you get started, update to ThrottleStop 9.2. The download link is in my signature. Go in the Options window and turn on Nvidia GPU monitoring so this information will be included in your log file.

It is not unusual for a 9900K to power limit throttle if the turbo power limits are set too low. You can check what these are set to in the TPL window. Post some ThrottleStop screenshots so I can see your settings.

Good idea. If you want maximum performance, you definitely want to have the Max processor state set to 100%. As soon as this is reduced to 99%, you lose Intel turbo boost and an expensive 9900K will be left running at a max speed of 3600 MHz. That would be a terrible thing to do.

 

I think you need to refer to this topic
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/

 

I really appreciate all the help I've received so far for this problem.

Please forgive my ignorance, but I did not read the entire linked topic (on ThrottleStop 9.2), but I did download it and I have gathered more data for my problem, which I hope helps diagnose the root cause (and hopefully a solution to it). Not sure if it helps or not but in an effort to better provide as much data, on my end, as I can, I also checked "More Data."

So I basically did a total of 5 tests, in the following order, with the Log File enabled each time (since the files are a bit long, I figured I'd just link them instead of trying to paste the whole thing in this message):
1. Overwatch with the "BD PROCHOT" setting checked (" XPRO" and " POWER STATUS CHANGE" are seen with " PL2" seen once)
Log File: https://pastebin.com/jeVAP16s

The pic shows BD PROCHOT as Red, but it was actually Yellow. If I remember correctly, it only stayed Red for a little while (< 100 ms).


2. Overwatch with the "BD PROCHOT" setting unchecked (" PL1", " PL2", and " POWER STATUS CHANGE")
Log File: https://pastebin.com/xyCpsX9s



3. A casual internet fast paced "Blitz" Chess game
Log File: https://pastebin.com/8PjNVgRP
No issues here.

4. COD Warzone with the "BD PROCHOT" setting checked (" XPRO", " POWER STATUS CHANGE", and even " PL2" is seen once)
Log File: https://pastebin.com/xpwt0B3N



5. COD Warzone with the "BD PROCHOT" setting unchecked (" PL1", " PL2", " POWER STATUS CHANGE", all that jazz)
Log File: https://pastebin.com/zGmdK7rK

All of these tests were performed using the Log File function of ThrottleStop 9.2, and in between each test, while not required, I still both rebooted the GT76 as well as deleted the ThrottleStop.ini file as well.

My Windows 10 Power Settings and Battery 100% charged:


Also, since I reimaged my PC, I no longer have IETU installed anywhere (and the only reason I re-installed the Dragon Center 2 was because on the MSI website, it said they migrated the Battery Calibration tool to the Dragon Center - otherwise, I wouldn't have bothered installing it as I never used it anyway).

I've been up for 17+ hrs, so hopefully I didn't make any mistakes w/ the transposition of the data that I've provided.

I can gather more data or change some settings, if anyone wants tomorrow (08/13/2020). Please just let me know.

I appreciate all the help.
Thanks.

 

@jpjones69 Do your GPU clocks drop when this is happening, or is it only the CPU?

 

@jpjones69 - My mistake. Open Hardware Monitor was right. Your computer really is throttling down to 798 MHz.

XPRO and BD PROCHOT mean the same thing. XPRO is external processor hot and BD PROCHOT is bi-directional processor hot. Basically this is a signal line that goes directly to your CPU so other sensors on your motherboard or within your power adapter can send throttling signals directly to your CPU. A signal on this line tricks the CPU into thinking that it is too hot even when it is not hot at all. This forces the CPU to use thermal throttling.

Here is Microsoft's definition for Power Status Change.

There is something wrong with your computer. The constant Power Status Change notifications in the log file makes it look like your power adapter is shorting out. It might be a bad, broken or loose connection where your power adapter plugs into your computer or the power adapter itself might be dead, almost dead or not capable of fully powering your computer.

To troubleshoot, check the connection. Is it loose? If it seems tight at the computer then you are going to need to find a replacement power adapter that you can swap to see if this fixes the problem.

Every time the power adapter shorts out internally or looses connection, it sends a BD PROCHOT throttling signal to your CPU which forces it to throttle to 798 MHz.

Next time you log data, turn off the More Data option. This option creates "too much information". You can also check the Nvidia box in the Options window if you want to add GPU data to your ThrottleStop log file.

The problem seems to first start soon after your CPU power consumption is at 135W to 140W. Almost like this was too much for your power adapter so it went into limp mode. After the load is reduced, it probably resets itself and starts working again.

Be careful clearing the BD PROCHOT box. This tells the CPU to ignore these throttling messages. You need to fix the problem. Telling the CPU to ignore these messages might end up creating a bigger problem if the voltage going to your computer goes crazy.

 

Thanks all - I really appreciate the help with this.
After reseating the power adapter, I did 1 more test, but turned on the NVIDIA GPU in Options first to get that data logged as well. If you're interested, the results are available
here: https://pastebin.com/xPAdMiuQ

@Kevin Not sure if it's considered normal, but I think the GPU drops as well as in my last test, the GPU dropped to around 500 MHz for 1 clock cycle before going back up- so yes the GPU Frequency drops too, but it doesn't stay locked there forever.
And in my testing yesterday, I think the GPU Core was seen as low as 300 MHz and GPU Memory 405 MHz (that's a long way down from 7 GHz!!!)

Is that new Eurocom 780W AC adapter still working fine for you?

Thanks again for everyone's help. Unless anyone else has any other ideas, I guess my only option is to have this laptop RMA'ed back and let them know the power system is defective.