*** The Official MSI GT75 Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Yes both come with the 7820HK. Certain SKU's will come with 7700HQ. I believe even 7820HQ has been used on some rare SKU's (I even saw 7920HQ used once).
GT73VR with CM238 chipset is discontinued. These came with Killer 1535 wifi and ESS Sabre Hifi DAC. HM175 version comes downgraded with Killer 1435 and no ESS Sabre.

 

Stupid question but what is ESS sabre and why should i care about it?? Im not being an ass i honestly dont know. This will be my first gaming pc. So is the 200 or so extra for the new gt75vr worth the money??

 

GT73VR still has the ESS Sabre HiFi audio port.

https://us.msi.com/Laptop/GT73VR-TITAN-PRO-7th-Gen-GEFORCE<sup>®<sup>-GTX-1080/Specification

Audio Port: 1/1 (ESS Sabre HiFi)

In a week of testing with the GT73VR Pro-866 Killer with 1435 Wifi, downloading many TB's of games, apps, and updates over Wifi with a DLINK DIR-655 there wasn't a single connection drop or drop in performance, and I got Wifi Speeds the same as Wired Ethernet speeds.

The Killer 1435 might be an improvement / better than the Killer 1535 for connectivity stability

Killer 1435
http://www.killernetworking.com/products/killer-wireless-ac-1435

I really don't think there is any performance difference or feature difference between the GT73 CM238 vs HM175.

 

Ok awesome thats good to know. Because i think i might pull the trigger on one. There beasts as far as gaming goes and like i said was considering alienware but why buy that n have to mod it to stay cool when the msi just works flawlessly out of the box?? I cant think of any reason other than being able to say i own an alienware.

 

Thanks again, Alyus.

I'll try to update.

Day two, and just as excited as day one.

 

Not showing up on Steam, but I'll check GOG. I know there was some sort of deal when I purchased.

 

What kind of firestrike scores can i expect with this setup?? Msi gt73vr with 7820hk cpu and gtx 1080 gpu. Can i expect most AAA games ti be over 100 fps so i can really enjoy that 120hz refresh screen?? I want something i can game on for at least a couple years.

Seriously tho this is the hardest choice of my life lol. First i wanted the alienware but the thermal issies kind of scared me off. Then i was thinking the EVOV 16l-g-1080. Now leaning toward msi for its awesome thermals. Honestly how does one decide?? How did you guys decide??

 

16L1 has a cancer 91W CPU power limit that we've been raging about over the last day, but other than that abomination it's a good machine.
GT73VR can exceed 91w if the CPU can handle it but then you have lower binned CPU's (quality tier is
K->non K->HK->ULV->HQ), hybrid battery power draw (a problem for lots of people) and absolute power limits (only a factor if you want to TDP mod your video card; 1070 users have a workaround for this 230W cancer; 1080 users are capped at 330W)
If you want the absolute best scores and overclocks then you want the Clevo TM1 coffee lake 6 core (when it's available) or DM3 or KM1 with prema Bios, but you will get a worse screen.

 

I don't have this problem after extensive checks at various angles.

I'm showing the following screen information:
Chi Mei N173HHE-G32 (CMN1747)

Just curious - Is there a way I can obtain the revision number of the display?

 

Sorry, this only pertained to me taking this as a trade-in for my GT80. The GT73's they were offering me had the older gen CPU's.

 

Lol i just want the absolute best for gaming. Something with great thermals and somewhat future proof so i can game on it for at least a couple years. Something with a good color accurate 120hz refresh 1080p screen. Something i can learn to overclock my cpu and gpu on because this is my first real gaming pc.

 

Then you want a Clevo, Ravern, not a GT75VR.

You want either a DM3 or KM1 with a binned 7700k silicon lottery CPU, from HIDEvolution so you can have the prema bios (otherwise you will be throttling more than a fish being choked), or you want to wait for the TM series 6 core. That's if you want the best of the best and as future proof as possible. Considering how CLOSE the 6 core 8700k Clevo is to release, I would wait off and just buy that. Just make sure you get it from HIDEvolution. They are a prema partner so you will get a no throttling Bios and EC firmware when available.

That's my suggestion.
Right now is the WORST time to buy a NEW laptop unless you're looking for used laptops from people selling off their old hardware for firesale prices.

 

I appreciate the response. Im not buying right now. Its going to be a bdau present to myself and my bday is april so not til 2018

 

Why not wait for the 6 core clevos?
MSI made a mistake releasing the GT75VR so close to coffee lake's release. I saw your other post. You said you want something you can game on, overclock to a nice high level and be future proof.
That means you want the new Clevo TM series (From HIDevolution). No cancer power limits, 6 core 12 thread CPU, GTX 1080, AND you should be able to TDP mod the 1080 (AT YOUR OWN RISK) for MOAR FPS.

*Edit* ok saw the response.
In that case, save your cash and wait for these to drop:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p870tm1-owners-lounge-phoenix-4.809589/

And i'm not a clevo owner. I'm just tired of dealing with MSI's power shenanigans. I'd be even less happy if i had a 1080 version instead of a 1070 version because I'd have less GPU TDP modding headroom (1070 model power ID can be changed from 230W system limit to 330W system limit. 1080 model power ID cannot because 330W is the maximum, and the SLI power ID (this doubles the system power allowance) cannot be used by hacking the EC RAM apparently).. Plus no one as far as I know has tested pulling more than 258W directly from a modded GTX 1080 on a GT73VR. The Clevos can handle it already.

 

Are these on their website right now?

 

It's somewhat wrong come up with firm conclusion before this is properly investigated with the maximum overclock of cpu / gpu.

 

Huh??

 

@hmscott is correct. This may not be that important.
HM175 EC (17A1EMS1.112) has more restrictions on total system power than CM238 EC (17A1EMS1.108), however .108 has been used in some HM175 systems anyway, so it's entirely "possible" that 17A1EMS1.112 is just a bugfix release to fix some weird stuff.

I thought that 17A1EMS1.112 was causing VRM shutoff issues, but I found out this was actually loadline calibration causing it. Auto varies the loadline by itself depending on load, and it can automatically go higher than 125 mohms. Auto seems best for ADAPTIVE voltage, however.. AC/DC=1 disables LLC and causes heavy vdroop. AC/DC of 25 is excellent for manual vcore but will cause instant BSOD's when overclocking with adaptive vcore. Now that I know what's happening, there is no functional problems with using 17A1EMS1.112 on a GT73VR itself, and switching the system power ID From 230W to 330W still works.

There are definitely some changes though.
PSYS_PMAX value of 2700 (337.5W) causes 800 mhz CPU throttle at ANY video card load whatsoever.
PSYS_PMAX of 2400 does not. Seems to be extra throttling code to force CPU to 800 mhz (instead of TDP cap) if power exceeds 330W. Possibly because "GT73EVR" (which 17A1EMS1.112 was designed for) does not have an SLI SKU (SLI can use 460W).

This behavior does not happen on 17A1EMS1.108.

 

The OC I got in the short time I had to work with it was good enough to suggest there are no OC limitations brought about by the HM175 vs the CM238, the chipset isn't a limiting factor.

And, the IO ports are fully serviced with the HM175 vs CM238 in the GT73VR, with no features missing.

If someone has both, and can spend more time OC'ing and benchmarking I doubt they will find anything either, but I am open to new discoveries

 

Hey bruh, so you traded your GT80 (Dual GTX 980M)? For the GT75VR? How much did money did you add?

 

Yeah I got alot of white dots but i cannot see them unless i push my face into the screen from normal distance I can't see them, but in my case I ordered different screen from reseller for msi and my gt 75 sli is originally 4K screen I downgraded it to 1080P 120hrz so I don't know what could happen with the 4k and here is a picture to see that it's hard to identify dots on screen.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

 

What's the trick to getting the video drivers to install properly on a fresh windows install? It keeps telling me the device isn't detected for the GTX1080 and for the intel card. I hit the switch for the onboard GPU to turn off the discrete and was able to install the intel drivers, but it doesnt matter what I do, I can't get the darn nvidia driver to install.

Already installed GeForce Experience, and it's telling me no compatible hardware.

Also getting an error on the PCIE controller, but windows reports the best driver is currently installed.

 

Did you try running display driver uninstaller and trying again?
There's a way to get into windows 10 safe mode but the "f8" method doesn't work on UEFI boot systems because they boot too quickly. You would have to download DDU and then use the restart option to start windows 10 in safe mode. Then maybe you can uninstall the current generic VGA driver and try again. And make sure you download the official Nvidia driver package, not whatever thing you have on your screen. Don't use geforce experience. Just download the game ready Nvidia drivers and don't touch GFE.

 

Just tried that - didn't work. I'm going to reinstall windows again and see if I can install the drivers in the different order. I'm not sure what the issue is.

 

So here is what I have done.

Stock Temps - 80-95deg 100% CPU load.

Original Pads were thrown away by me, did not measure original pads and put me some 1.5mm ThermalGrizzly Pads with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut - 90-101deg 100% CPU load.

Ordered some ArctiClean and cleaned the die properly. (There's a lot of crap on it.. I thought the isopropyl alcohol would clean it properly but no...) < I highly recommend this step...
Ordered some 1mm Thermal Grizzly Pads. 80-97deg 100% CPU load.
Ordered some 0.5mm Thermal Grizzly Pads. 82-99deg 100% CPU load.

I've determined that the thickness required is 0.5mm to 1mm (due to small light imprints on the 1mm pads) but the grizzly pads are too tough and non-pliable. So I've ordered some FujiPoly Extreme 1mm 11W/MK. They are softer and gummier and should help with the contact.

Stay tuned for another episode on "How to mess up your perfectly fine stock temperatures thinking you're doing something right and then finding a solution to fix it "

 

I'll see if mine has any today.

 

okay, got it to install correctly.

Reinstalled windows
installed the chipset drivers,
installed the MSI SCM utility,
hit the MUX switch to turn off discrete gfx,
installed Intel VGA Drivers
Muxed again
Installed Nvidia VGA Drivers
and then ran through the rest of the drivers.

I must have done something out of order the first time with the mux switch because it wouldnt recognize the 1080 gtx for anything.

FWIW, I'm really digging the mechanical keyboard. Not as much as my GT80 cherry MX, but it is pretty darn good - I greatly appreciate it over a typical laptop keyboard.

 

If it's any consolation, I don't have the Intel Drivers installed. It is always on Nvidia.

I dig the keyboard, just not the angle that my palm rests at...

 

Hi,
I used Arctic 1mm thermal pads on my GT73VR. They work fine. They're also extremely soft (not super gummy and nonexistant like the original pads) but soft enough to compress down to 0.5mm if there is enough pressure. I highly recommend those.

 

FWIW - None of the current MSI models use hybrid battery power draw anymore...MSI heard all the screams about it, and discontinued its use.

 

Does that include the newly shipping GT73VR HM175 models? GT75VR? Starting when?

Is MSI planning on converting previously shipped models to not use hybrid battery via firmware updates?

 

The GT73VR HM175 model DOES use hybrid battery power. I'm using the EC from it right now for the extra automatic fan curve (and was testing some stuff).

 

I'm having stranges crashs with my laptop: kernel Power 41. Seems to be random, It happen anytime. dosen't seems to be overheating, my temps are good
any ideas?

Edit: So now the laptop just chain crasheds during a game session. Even with the AC plugged off it just crashed.

 

With this model being so new and so few owners on these, i would suggest you contact your reseller for support if you aren't sure how to check the logs to see where/why it crashed.

You might want to roll back to whatever drivers MSI shipped the device with if you have updated anything.

 

When your laptop crashes, does the power light SHUT OFF for 2 seconds and then turn back on, as if it were power cycled with the power button?
Is there any blue screen dump information shown (at the current time/date) in c:\windows\minidump (or wherever the minidump folder is in windows 10; I don't where it is).

What are your current Bios settings?

What overclock are you using? What is your voltage (vcore) setting? Exact CPU speed? Is it manual override?

You said this laptop was re-pasted and also sent to someone for servicing. Are you sure the VRM thermal pads are intact?

Usually, the laptop rebooting by itself without any blue screen error is caused by VRM power reliability issues.

Can you run prime 95 small FFT (prime 29.x version) and tell me what happens? If you're having VRM problems, the system should restart in less than a minute every single time.

Try to order a set of these thermal pads:
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Therm...91595&sr=8-1&keywords=Arctic+thermal+pads+1mm

Then take a picture (this helps a LOT) of the original thermal pad layout, then remove the original thermal pads and replace with these.
Then repaste the thermal paste with Grizzly Kryonaut and reassemble.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Griz...1705&sr=8-2&keywords=Thermal+Grizzly+Kryonaut

I would NOT recommend the 16 w/mk pads of any type. They are too stiff and not very compressible at all. the Arctic pads work well for me.

 

@J4ck974 Thanks for the earlier tip! I did order Witcher 3 from GOG Galaxy, along with 10 other games I forgot about.

You saved me some $$$.

 

Well, I have my GT75VR going. Really digging the keyboard and happy I paid the extra to go with the GT75 over the GT73. My Samsung 960 SSD showed up today, so I reinstalled windows again using my driver order from yesterday and it went without a hitch.

I'll download PCMark again tonight so I can run FireStrike, Timespy, or some other benchmarks sometime this week.

I did notice that this PC was a bit faster on cold boot/startup than my old GT80, which is great.
There isn't really a vast improvement for me. I went from a GT80 Titan SLI with 980 GTX's to this GT75VR w/ GTX 1080. The largest change is I doubled my Ram from 16gb to 32gb and my CPU from from a 4720HQ to an 7820HK. I will likely run this thing stock.

People complained about the fan noise, but its about as loud as my GT80, so I guess its a non-issue for me.

First impressions are good so far.

 

Gongs. but how much costed you and from where you order could you tell us what's the specifications..? Keep-up work

 

View attachment 150652 View attachment 150652

Thank you for your reply

Just did a rollback and just got another crash.
I will contact them about the logs.

I will check the power light when the next crash occurs just to be sure but it seems the ligh dosen't shut off.

there's no minidump folder, I had to configure so that they're not erased. I guess we have to wait for the next crash.

What BIOS settings you wanna know excatly?

About overclock, I'm using default settings (sport mode in DC), did'nt touch anything else.

Yes the laptop was sent to a local tech, he did repaste it but to be honest I did'nt check anything, he was more qualified than I am so....

I ran prime 95 smale FFT as you asked for about 5min. Temps were really high (98-99°C, maybe this is normal for a stress test?) but no crashs, everything passed. Maybe should I run it longer? Sorry for all the questions but I'm not an advanced user.

repasting will be my last option, don't really want to mess up with the laptop anymore unless I have no choice, I've already blow up my warrantly by doing it the 1rst time..

In the event viewer i notice there's a lot a error (see screensshots), is that normal there's SO MUCH errors?
Can I unninstal XTU safely? I had some problems with it with my previous laptop. and some of the erros in the events viewver are link to XTU.

Again thanks a lot for your support.

 

Glad I could hep you, for once I'm the one who's helping

 

I've run into my first issue.

The Steel Series button to fast switch the keyboard profile does not work if I add new profiles. It will break when switching through them using the button. I've tried reinstalling SCM and it did not correct the issue. Uninstalling the steelseries app and reinstalling it with the default profiles corrected the issue. From there, I was able to edit the 4 default profiles and not add/remove and it seems to be working. I'm not sure if this is an SCM issue or an issue with the SteelSeries software.

 

Did you download the offered updated SSE software through the SSE app? Or are you still using the MSI original version?

 

The laptop just crached again but I can't find those minidump, where are they located?

also I confirm that the light power dosn't show OFF, it stays ON the whole time.

 

Download and use Who Crashed for debugging/troubleshooting.

 

Try running memtest86 on a flash drive. You may have to change boot mode to legacy or legacy+CSM. I had problems getting UEFI mode to boot; it would just crash when trying to access the flash drive via UEFI and then the RAM timings would reset, even though memtest86 is supposed to have a UEFI mode...not fun.

Try a completely clean install of windows? Try memtest86 first. It's free and I'm sure you have a flash drive or thumb drive sitting around. If not, you should get one.

 

I need you advice bro. Please send me a private message because I can't seem to send one to you.

 

I've tried it both ways. The update does not correct the issue. The modes can still be switched as desired, but you'd need to do it through the task bar or through the SSE app. Since I typically run in 1 mode only, this is really a non-issue for me. I am able to duplicate it by adding or deleting my own profiles. It will typically get stuck on Disco mode or some other fancy fading profile and never on any of the "steady" profiles I custom created.

I was also able to bypass it by merely modifying the 4 default profiles and leaving them with the default names.

I'm guessing it is a simple coding bug and will likely get fixed in a future update if they ever realize it is happening.

 

I'm trying to research information on how to use my laptop to replace my desktop computer's display functions, which has a 4 monitor setup. I'm looking at/for write-ups on displayport 1.2 and MST, but was wondering if anyone here has looked at or actually set up multi-monitor configurations.

I'm looking for more viable resources to see if it can be done. If not, I may need to hold on to my desktop for a while more. I have a 5 monitor setup at work for productivity, so I need at least 4 displays to for remote emulation.

 

I had the same issue but after i delete the keyboard device that saved in the setting and downloaded the new version of SSE3 then restart the laptop it worked perfectly unfortunately i can't show you how i did it now, since i'm at work now for more than a week so, you can search for the saved connected keyboard in your setting and delete it by yourself if u can find it and try to adjust anew setting from the SSE3.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

 

Noticing another issue. Not sure if it is something with this laptop, or something else. I keep getting ERR_CONNECTION_TIMEOUT with certain websites while on my LAN connection Craigslist, Chase, etc. I would think it a router issue, but my GT80 is perfectly fine when plugged into the same line. This is a perfectly clean install of Windows. It also isn't a Chrome issue, because the sites are timing out in IE and Edge, too.

Works fine over WIFI. Any ideas?

Okay this one is odd. The hosts file is clean. The IPv4 settings are identical between the 2 devices. Its almost like I'm hitting a proxy or something even though it isn't. If I install a VPN on the laptop like windscribe, I can get to all of the problematic sites just fine...

Open to ideas on this one.
Also tried Google's DNS Servers. No go.