The Official MSI GS73VR Owners' Lounge

Feels like battery to me, I can feel it tapping across with some weight.

Just pushing some pressure above/below the area to the left of the touchpad stops it.
Say a pinch through that area.

I'm gathering they all do this??

In theory that whole surface above/under battery is free floating so some gap is reasonable to expect.
Possibly even designed in to aid cooling/thermal expansion/contraction.

I'm just surprised there are no thin squishy foam supports.

 

It has Optimus, not Gysnc

 

There is a gap between the battery and the cover. The battery should have been taped down inside with some strong adhesive. There are also supposed to be a few foam pads on the edges. If your is making a noise or moving, one of those two things are missing. If you're comfortable doing it, open it up and take a look.

 

Quick Update:

My undervolt using ThrottleStop didn't seem to stick. Which I blame myself for since I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff. But when I played through Total War: Warhammer: Cpu temps reached 92c.

So I decided to try Intel's XTU, which I've had much better success with. I had a mostly stable -.170mv change, but Warhammer crashed after about thirty minutes. But that could have been a bug in the game, so not sure. Regardless, I lowered the undervolt change to -160mv and played successfully for 45 minutes with no crashes. CPU maxed at 86C but fluctuated mostly between 79C-82C and with GPU-Z I checked the GPU temps with a max of 81C during game play. I think I might try out one of those USB-powered vacuum coolers, but the most popular one on Amazon "only" goes to 70 dB according to their marketing. And the other brands look massive.

Which brings me to fan noise ... after playing Warhammer and Crysis I can confidently say this laptop gets LOUD. I don't really notice it much when playing a game like Crysis because there is always action going on, but with a strategy game like Warhammer or I can imagine with something like Civ V, the in-game music just isn't loud enough to hide the fans.

But I will say that I am very happy with performance. On Ultra I'm getting 75-80 FPS in Warhammer compared to the paltry 50-56 FPS I was getting on High with my desktop.

 

I'd love to but I'll register with MSI first then get a video on YouTube, and then get either a replacement, live with it, or DIY with 'permission' from MSI.

Then at least I'm covered with the warranty.

My only real concern is fatigue of any part associated with the battery like a connector or something, moving a bit thousands of times and it failing in 30 months time just after warranty wouldn't be ideal

That said assuming it's all working ok in a year I'll probably assume all is 'good' with it and open up/upgrade the noisy hdd for an SSD!

 

Well I contacted MSI via website, so global help, they said to use UK repairer at first.

I had a bit of a complain as that's bonkers on a new machine otherwise ok.

I copied in MSI UK and they've been loads more helpful and useful.

They've pretty much said I can do what I like.
I'm unsure if they really meant warranty wasn't voided by changing ram and SSD etc, I have a feeling that's not for the flipped systems.

But either way it *seems* like they're happy with back off to do easy jobs at least, just not covering anything you tamper with (is there anti tamper marks/paint on mobo etc?)

So I've made a video I'll share of the noise, gonna let MSI UK see it too, then do the fix DIY assuming it's nothing disastrous and they say ok.

I'm guessing it's just sticky tape failure on the battery.

Would be sad to have to send it back as the screen appears perfect, as does the rest of it.

I'll report back on my findings!

 

I just got my gs73vr and am trying to do a fresh re-install of windows 10 that came with it, but how do I find the windows 10 product key? There is no sticker on my laptop that shows it

 

It will activate automatically from the hardware.

 

if I connect a g-sync display to this laptop on dport, can somebody on this thread CONFIRM that g-sync will then show up in nvidia control panel? I assume it will.

 

Getting a max of 95c on cpu and 85c on gpu when playing witcher 3 max/ultra settings, is this normal? Average temps were about 87c cpu and 80c gpu

 

Can someone tell me how I can undervolt my cpu on this msi gs73vr? Do I do it in the bios?

 

In response to your other post about CPU temps playing Witcher 3, I think those are technically okay temps, but are definitely high. I was also hitting 90+C playing Total War: Warhammer.

So I tried using ThrottleStop to do an undervolt, but it was pretty confusing for me as a beginner.

Instead, I ended up using Intel's XTU software which is also free. It's really simple and easy to use. I tried doing a strong undervolt of -170mv but it wasn't very stable when gaming even though it would pass the Benchmark and stress testing in the software. Instead I stick with a -123mv which is stable when gaming. Now my temps for the CPU level out at 82C after an hour of playing and my GPU stays right at 80C. Both run very stable with the CPU at 3.10-3.14 Ghz and the GPU at 1.6 Ghz.

I might eventually get an air cooler which is reported to cool the CPU and GPU another 10C but ... they are large and bulky looking.

 

Would a laptop cooler even work properly with the msi gs73vr? I thought the intakes for the fan were sucking the air from the top of the case above the keyboard and blowing the air out from the sides?


Also if I undervolt my cpu with either throttlestop or Intel's XTU does that mean I have to apply the undervolt every time I restart the computer? Is there anyway to permanently apply the under volt or at least have it remain persistent after turning off or restarting the computer?

 

Clarification Edit: These sample settings images are taken from a GT80 with the 5950HQ CPU

In Intel XTU you Apply your changes for immediate effect, then you Save a named Profile, which gets loaded every time you boot - unless you crash for any reason XTU won't apply settings at the next boot - you go into XTU and reselect and Apply that named Profile again.

Usually I have a number of profiles. For benchmarking 4.1ghz on all 4 cores, everyday use 4.0ghz on all 4 cores, batch mode where I reduce the multiplier to allow for constant speed and high undervolt 35x on all 4 cores.

Save a stable set of settings to revert to when you need to get work done. You don't want to open critical files or do work you can't lose while on a test Profile setting

Intel Extreme Tuning Utility Download
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/66427/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-Intel-XTU-

Here are a couple of sample settings views of XTU:

4.0ghz with no undervolt just before hitting Apply:


40x applied with everything else at defaults:


Batch mode 35x multiplier x 4 cores and 32x Cache multiplier with -100mv undervolt to Apply:


Note how all the changed settings are in Yellow before Applying

 

Does anybody have a youtube video showing 120hz with no g-sync compared to 60hz with g-sync? There's a video showing 60hz vs 60hz-g-sync but of course, that's a no brainer. What is more interesting to think about is the 120hz vs 60hz-g-sync. Of course if I could just go to frys and load a game and try it, I'd have my answer. but maybe somebody who owns a gs73 can post a video?

 

I can't get my msi gs73vr to detect my headphones anymore after upgrading to windows anniversary update and then uninstalling nahimic software and then installing the realtek hd audio drivers that were mentioned on here earlier.


When I plug something into the microphone slot it is fine, but the headphone jack doesn't detect anything, does anyone else have this issue? How do I switch to the headphones when plugged in?



EDIT: I fixed this by installing the latest realtek drivers I found on nahimic's website:


https://nahimic.helprace.com/i102-nahimic-2-3-8-is-alive


You don't have to uuse the nahimic software, they provide you with the realtek drivers then optionally provide you with their software to use

 

Also ughhh, how do I fix this mouse click lag issue when I click on certain things, for example I click a folder, or windows explorer, or the battery icon on the task bar


All of it takes about 1 seconds or slightly less to respond. While that doesn't sound like a huge deal considering it's 1 second or less, it makes the experience feel like a very old computer

 

I haven't quite gotten rid of the stutters. I still get them sometimes when I open up GeForce Experience or GPU-Z. I think in my case they happen when the GPU's switch. But I don't know that for certain. Just a guess.

When I first had the laptop before i did a clean install of Windows the mouse was constantly lagging whenever I opened any program on the computer. But since then, I haven't had the issue anywhere nearly as bad. Perhaps you should update your ELAN driver?

 

Would that help even if I'm only using a physical mouse?

 

Hey Guys,

Just unboxed my model today, went with 256SSD, 32GB RAM, and the 120HZ panel.

After browsing through all 47 of these pages, it's looking like a clean install of Windows is the best way to start using this machine. With that comes some unfamiliar territory with the new Windows 10 functions when it comes to "Reset My PC" etc...

I'm currently downloading the windows 10 ISO from Microsoft and putting it onto a USB stick. I then plan on finding my serial and having that handy. Is this even necessary? Or will windows understand that I already have a legitimate copy and reinstall itself using the serial in my BIOS?

Once that's all done, it's looking like there's a Realtek driver floating around here that's outperforming Nahimic 2. As a headset user, I don't really mind too much about my speaker quality but reports of FPS drops in games due to Nahimic is what's throwing me off them. Someone claimed the issue was resolved in an update, is this true? Do we like Nahimic 2 again or are we still going with Realtek?

Before moving forward, are there any other drivers I should have handy before wiping my machine?

Honestly at the end of the day I'm just terrified of messing something up right off the bat. It's been so long (Windows XP) since I've run a fresh install of Windows and it's become terrifying at this point.

 

As I am sure you recall, it takes a few installs to get the lay of the land and get things just right.

The best 1st thing to do is to back up the MSI recovery image, so you can at any point restore to the original out of the box Windows installation.

MSI BurnRecovery and a 32GB USB 3.0 flash drive and about 20 minutes and you're all set for blowing away the MSI install.

Then you can try your hand at bringing the OS install back to what MSI already provided

A "clean install" from MS media isn't going to improve performance, or improve your experience, it's going to put you in a position of working hard and spending lots of time trying to get things installed and configured so you have full functionality.

The MS generic drivers that will install or install through update won't be optimal, you'll want to find the MSI provided ones, or go directly to the OEM for their latest version.

It's enough to use the MSI install, and update a few drivers, and either uninstall MSI Dragon Gaming Center and use discrete Intel XTU and MSI Afterburner directly, or set Xboost options in MSI Dragon Gaming Center "OFF", then that should be good:



There are really only 5 drivers that need that need update from the MSI OS image, Killer Wireless drivers only, Nvidia latest driver, Intel latest driver, Nahimic and Realtek matched latest drivers.

I would update the rest by hand as well that have updates available from MSI or the OEM, It's critical to keep drivers up to date, even resorting to Hot fix or Beta drivers to respond to Windows 10 constant changes causing problems for OEM's.

Download the drivers on another system, keeping your new MSI laptop off the internet (disconnect the internet from it) so Windows 10 doesn't "automatically" update Windows or drivers.

Once your drivers are updated, then put your laptop back on the internet and do the Windows 10 updates.

Have fun

 

Hmm, yeah I doubt it would.

Perhaps there is something running in the background that is causing your system to run slowly? I'd open up your Task Manager and see what happens to your CPU and RAM usage when the mouse/programs stutter.

 

So of course I got antsy and after my Win10 USB was complete, I just went for it.
How large is that base Recovery ISO and is it really that vital? Would someone be able to host it somewhere so I could grab it just in-case?
Everything seems to be up and running now and I'm chipping away at your list of mandatories: (Intel ((assuming it's the chipset)), Nvidia, Nahimic, and Killer)

Unfortunately I don't have a secondary system anymore to download on and beat Win10 to the punch. Is it fine to overlap in this instance?

 

Yes, if you have no choice then download quickly

If you already blew away the 19GB install / recovery partition, you either need to get another unit to do the recovery backup or send it back to MSI for restore.

If you have a retail shop that you are friendly with, ask them if you can backup the recovery system - it doesn't degrade their system and only takes about 20 minutes on a fast USB 3.0 flash drive.

You can buy the 32GB USB 3.0 flash drive from them if they have them

Intel chipset and iGPU video driver.

 

depends what option you will buy on msi site it says ..

https://www.msi.com/Laptop/GS73VR-6RF-Stealth-Pro.html#hero-overview

• 17.3" Full HD (1920x1080), 120 Hz Refresh Rate and 5ms response time panel (Optional)
• 17.3" Full HD (1920x1080), IPS level panel (Optional)

 

It depends on the sub-model number which indicates a specific configuration.

 

those 120Hz are only achieved in FHD only right ? not 4K ?
These new MSi laptops supports now HDMi 2.0 .. shame my GS70 doesn't .. at least mini DP supports it thank god..
120Hz could be compard to ''g-sync'' ... that gsync it to me kind of gimmick .. those 120Hz is just overclocking monitor/panel ...

 

you right .. ''g-sync'' or ''free sync'' is just automatic monitor refresh rate overclocking..

 

I have undervolted my cpu with Intel XTU, playing witcher 3 with ultra settings my cpu temps is 71-81c from low to max, cpu usage at 30-40%, but the gpu is at 99% and 83c


I really hate to have to take this apart, but would applying thermal paste really drastically improve my temps?

Is this similar temps to what other people here are getting under the same circumstance?

 

120Hz is the spec of the screen which is 1080P.
There's no 4K available with 120Hz.

 

The trade-off with applying enthusiast pastes is that you will drop a few degree's, but over time it will degrade again and you will need to repaste. Maybe 6 months - 18 months, depending on the paste and the application.

Your temp's are great as is with stock paste, and the MSI stock paste usually lasts for a few years without needing repasting.

The GPU temp's are usually least improved with enthusiast paste so I wouldn't worry about 83c.

If you end up getting motivated to do it, make sure to read around on NBR for others experiences, watching some video's, and maybe experiment with desktop re-pasting first.

 

I'm thinking I'd picking up a gs73 in the near future but want to know what the chassis heat is like in real world gaming. while I'm aware most people don't have ir Sensors, how does the laptop feel heat wise while using It? can you notice any heat on the keyboard and how much does ramping the fans up improve both surface temperature and hardware temperature? I may end up holding off until mid announce their gtx1050 range which I can only assume will run cooler regardless

 

I haven't sat down and played for much longer than an hour ... but I will say that the keyboard stays very cool relative to what I thought it would be. I've even set my hand over where the CPU and GPU are while it's definitely warm, I'd say it feels more like a hot mug of coffee that's been sitting out for a few minutes if that helps haha. In other words, I'm very pleased with the heat management in terms of directing away the heat exhaust from the user. I don't play on my lap, so I'm not sure what the base panel feels like, but the top half stays pretty cool.

I haven't messed with fan configurations because I deleted the Dragon Center software. But the fans do get really loud when the CPU and GPU are around 80% usage and the temps get to 80C. For those instances I just turn up my speakers or put in headphones. Depending on what kind of game you are playing you might not experience high temps or loud fans.

 

Just got the laptop and noticed that there is stutter/jitter that is coming from the top right side of the laptop when the fans are rotating slowly or when I just start the device. Is this normal or is there a fan that is slightly loose? Could also possibly be the hdd.

Basically, it is on the right side and is a slow rattling noise, sort of like a clock tick.

 

What is the best possible ram for this laptop? Is there a compatability list for the motherboard of this laptop? I'm looking for 32 gigs

 

What you have sounds similar to what I have which is a static buzzing sound from the right side of the laptop. Mine emits the sound from where the battery is. I haven't figured out why it's happening, because it will happen when the battery is charging but also when the power cord is disconnected. I thought it might be from using Edge, but it also happens when I'm using Chrome. Could be a speaker that is faulty for all I can tell.

But thankfully it happens infrequently enough that I don't really worry about it. However, it is very annoying if you are in a quiet room

 

Newegg has a version with 32GB of Ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154305

 

And, newegg has the 32GB version on sale right now for $1699, the same price as the 16GB version, @ $200 off.

 

If you're experiencing micro-stuttering or mouse-pointer-freezing, which is a problem affecting many VR-ready MSI notebooks, check out this thread for potential solutions: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ointer-freezes-try-this.798873/#post-10401161

@TigerFoo

 

Have been using chrome, and while in general it runs better than edge small stutters will still occur during media playback like Youtube. I set the dGPU to be the preferred GPU and also set both browsers to use the dGPU. I installed those drivers you mentioned as well. As mentioned before, I did a clean install and uninstalled MSI Dragon Center as well as Nahimic 2. Any other ideas for the cause of stuttering?

 

why so big this DC panel ridiculous like old resolutions 1024x768.. old DC was small.. they could shrink it..

 

Send in a suggestion

 

have you got link ?

 

Do you have a registered MSI product? You would send in a Technical ticket on the registered product, this is best, as it will go to the right people most directly.
https://register.msi.com/home/login

MSI also has / had a suggestion feedback link as part of their support info, but I don't see it anymore.
https://service.msicomputer.com/msi_user/Support/system_support.aspx?type=Laptop

Here are MSI's US domestic and international contact points:
https://us.msi.com/about/contact-us

Here is a more comprehensive contact information page, many regions:
https://us.msi.com/about/contact-us-all

 

Question : When you buy a 32GB Corsair Vengeance PC-24000 3000MHz to put it in, why XMP Profil standing for more than 2666MHz are not used ? it is a BIOS firmware version limitation or is hardware issue with the Chipset ? It could be CL16@3000(XMP) but have CL18@2666(JEDEC#7). How do a BIOS reset to force detection again ? I will try to re-flash the entire BIOS... I cannot believe it!

 

Did anyone try to remove these ridiculously huge stickers on the laptop? It's really embarrassing...

 

Note: BIOS re-flash did nothing new for XMP-3000MHz. Some classic DDR3 kit dual channel can beat my top overpriced vengeance ram
Indeed nothing lost 1/2fps in game for such laptop is not a shame.

Today I changed the original thermal paste (I have a Prolimatech-PK1 needle recieved in an old cpu fan bundle, not the best but good can last 10years+ i tested), take out 10degree on max immediatly on FORZA3 or DOOM-Vk (91° to 81° with a secure -125mV undervolt on CPU/GPU/Cache). Very impressive, skylake. Love it. GPU stay with 78-80° but no big auto-underclock anymore (was 1543MHz all the time after 2min now 1678 so active boost really used, overclock +121MHz and GPU-Z show 1526-1690, I'm very close to this max now). If they told me that before it would be the first thing I want to do, repasting is magic!

 

@Studio_H
You can take off all stickers on top easily. Below warranty one is the hardest, I did not finish yet but on the go. Removed gtx logo below too. Only 3 uselfull left: 2black (electrical and wifi compliances) and white (serial board to use with msi)

 

Thanks, so my question is really, how do I find the icc profile?

 

Is anyone else experiencing an issue when the laptop boots up its resolution is 768p instead of the native 1080p? It's happened to me a couple of time and it's pretty frustrating. Also when it's in this weird resolution I experience a lot of micro-stutter from the trackpad and in opening up applications.

On top of that when I had an external monitor hooked via HDMI, after my laptop falls asleep only the external monitor works as my screen and it no longer recognizes my laptop display.

I went into Device Manager and my drivers are all up to date so not sure what is going on.