*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

I would not recommend you guys mess much with these heatsinks that are unified unless you are experienced at laptop teardowns. The GT73VR and GT75VR heatsinks are easy to work with and can be removed only by unplugging the battery cable and unscrewing fans (very very easy to do), as long as you have replacement thermal paste and pads. It's in fact just as easy as working with a desktop case. But these unified heatsinks that require total disassembly....those are not fun and you run the risk of breaking fragile cables. I'm all for repasting stuff but not if you have to do a full disassembly. Better to just RMA, but again it's a BGA lottery

 

That's probably livable, with tuning, you don't thermal throttle on the hottest cores?

Intel told me that 5c-6c is considered average, - anything over 10c is eligable for RMA replacement, and the replacement they gave me was 1c-2c and so have many (all?) of my CPU's.

Even so, I don't really see that many popping up here complaining about it, mostly it's AW, so hopefully most people are ok.

 

I don't think people are complaining about it but every time I see someone pay their temps, core 2 is always the outlier.

Nope, I'm not throttling after tuning.

 

I made some real-life testing playing Fortnite for 30 minutes with fans set to auto and here are the temps. I don't think this is OK.

 

Standard fare for weak heatsinks with stock thermal paste. Laptop needs to be repasted with something decent like Coolermaster Mastergel Maker Nano and 0.5mm Arctic thermal pads (on the CPU ONLY, NOT the GPU).

RMA will not affect this at all. These laptops are all mass produced heatsinks with "Lairdtech" thermal stamps.

 

That's an interesting interpretation of someone discussing the free market and how demand dictates price...

Regardless - G-SYNC and Freesync are both awesome technologies that changed the game in displays. If you do not agree, fine.

I just worry that a lot of laptop people are missing out on the benefits of high refresh, G-SYNC/Freesync, etc. because they're used to having lower end hardware that can't push pixels like desktop GPUs. Things have changed with a Pascal - and that's why we are seeing that display technology transfer over to laptops. It is NOT purely marketing/fluff and to say anything different is incorrect.

 

Almost. Demand and supply dictate price. The prices the market will bear rise when demand is high and supply is low. nVidia hyped G-Sync to increase demand and then kept supply low expecting the market to bear the elevated price. And then they said they didn't elevate the price enough because the market did.

Call that an interesting interpretation if you want. I've already made what I call it abundantly clear.

 

heres a weird one.

WoW will only open in a window or windowed full-screen. Full-screen isnt an option. Any idea why that would be?

 

Here you said you "tried" undervolting, are you still undervolting? You should keep it undervolted, and at 100% load that should reduce your temps by 10c, which should bring it from the 90c's to the 80c's, which is livable.

The BIOS is set out of the box with too much CPU voltage, more than is needed to run stable, so the undervolt tunes the voltage down to where it is still stable but doesn't generate as much heat. All laptops are like this.

Also, you have to adjust the fan curve to be more aggressive if you want to be on auto, or run at 100% fans - you should do that for testing, the auto fan curve out of the box is too slow to start up and doesn't ramp up high enough for high load testing.

Maybe someone here can share their custom fan curve on the GS65 to give you a starting place.

Lots of people have reported undervolting their GS65, tuning their fan curve, setting up RTSS to limit FPS to display refresh to reduce load on CPU / GPU, and tilt the laptop rear higher than the front to start convection cooling - can help another 5c or so depending on ambient temperature. All of this together helps get temps under thermal throttling.

Your laptop may still have 1 hot core, but the next laptop will hopefully be better.

 

Hello everyone,

Yesterday, I received my new MSI GS65. Right after I turned on the laptop, I noticed what I think is a problem. There is an irregular buzzing noise around the right (CPU) fan area. The buzzing noise is irregular appearing and disappearing from time to time. I was able to capture the noise in a video posted on youtube: . I am not sure if the noise is caused by the fan or something else. The left fan area does not have a similar noise. The noise can appear even at a low fan speed (1500-2300 RPM) or can be totally absent at a high fan speed (3000-4000 RPM). The loudness of the noise all varies.

I am thinking of asking for a laptop replacement or even canceling my purchase.

Is anyone else had the same issue with GS65?

 

Does anyone know what are these in HWInfo and why are they set to Yes:

IA: Max Turbo Limit
IA: Turbo Attenuation (MCT)
GT: Fuses limit
RING: Max VR Voltage, ICCMax, PL4

https://imgur.com/a/qBoUVMf

 

I own Ark and the GS 65: it can handle Ark at epic settings around 60 fps, depending by scenario, BUT if you don't set fan to max speed and you don't undervolt it, it makes the machine throttling so much that the FPS drops down or sometimes crashes after only 5 minutes or less.

FPS limiter recomended for this ****ing buggy game. Thankfully I'm not playing Ark so much anymore, because of raiders, scammers, hackers and stupid decisions by "developers", but it's seriously the only game that makes my GS 65 crazy! Unbelievable. (For instance, Star Wars Battlefront II, which is a heavy game, runs very smooth even with max details and 144 Hz refresh (around 110-120 usually).

 

No issues with mine. If it's not a fan problem, it could be coil whine. Since you're still within your return period, I would get a replacement on it.

 

Definitely sounds like coil whine. Try updating the BIOS, it may have an impact. I don't believe it is technically a problem, but it is annoying, and I would replace it if I was you.

 

I got a replacement GS65 today and after reacreating the previous prime95 test it looks like this unit has better CPU temperatures

 

The previous one got turbo boosted to 4.0 GHz, while this one get to 3.3 only … which easily can explain the temps I think ...

 

Did you set your max turbo to 3.3GHz?

 

Ouch, I didn't change max turbo. Where can I set it?

 

It looks like you're throttling then. Max turbo should be 3.9GHz for all cores. Are you set on high performance mode and you're plugged in?

 

You can only sustain 3.9ghz if the power draw doesn't exceed 45w.

In prime, most 8750H CPUs have a power draw (with an undervolt) of +60w at 3.9ghz. The only way to exceed the 45w PL1 limit, is to play with the imon slope and imon offset (with a negative prefix) settings, which are accessible after you unlock the BIOS.

 

I agree. What is weird is that he didn’t boost at all to 3.9, not even close. He should have boosted to that speed then downclock after he exceeds 28 seconds above the TDP.


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Then he either set the TB multipliers to lower values or he pressed the clock icon in hwinfo after the PL2 time expired.

 

I mean, this is driving me crazy!!

Am I the only one where the laptop makes these sounds by pressing by the wristwrest? Is there a way to fix this, or should I RMA?

 

Mine does it too, doesn't bother me that much.

Side note, I noticed that there is some tape partially covering the CPU fans. I wonder if it'll be a problem in the future with dust getting stuck on the adhesive side and all. Debating if I should just cut it off...

 

I’m comfortable with IMON for managing TDP of the CPU, but is there an equivalent for the GPU?

 

I'm curious if anyone scored higher than me...
I did 3 runs back to back.

1. 1257
2. 1259
3. 1263

 

Open up the case, and tape over the hooks in the front of the laptop.

 

Thank you!!! I'll try this when I have the possibility.

 

You could try tightening up the battery area by adding some pads or the equivalent. This stops the creaking from the bottom front of the plate too.

 

The leopard runs faster

 

Hi Guys, long time lurker on this forum.
Just got my GS65 today, the RF8 version with 32gb/1070maxq/512GB. went ahead and added a second 1TB m.2 (had my local shop put it in for an extra 10 bucks)

I was snooping around this forum before my purchase and i read somewhere about the slow/sluggish windows 10 explorer. I have this issue...
Didn't find out if someone here already found a fix for it. I remember some talk about Optimus causing this.
Is this solvable without disabling Optimus? Any other fix would be so sweet.

Also, would love to know you guys's ideal config for the best battery life.

But I have to say, i don't have any regrets for taking the plunge for this machine, was in the market for a Thin and Light and this suits my needs perfectly.
I find the chassis flex to be not as worde as some of the reviewers made it out to be. Also no squeeking in my chassis.

 

Boo. Not a Gs65 though lol. Anyway, what were the settings and the temps and fan speeds?


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Mine does, too, sometimes, but in my case the pitch is nicer. It's not related to fans, besides they have a similar pitch sometimes, but it's something related to energy and CPU.
All of my past and current PCs had more or less whine, even my desk monitor (that works since 2010!), even my last Mac Book Pro 15, too. The only one that never had audible whine issue was the Dell XPS L502X (2010-2011, still working!).

Anyway I can hear it only if there is deep silence in the room and the PC is running fans very low... and I'm not listening music and I'm taking whine in account.

It can be continuous if you have Dragon Center garbage installed, Performance set to "Sport" and AC plugged in and Chrome opened, for instance.

If you change the Performance to "Comfort", it nearly stops. Performance should be almost the same when required, but the CPU will run with a lower clock when performance not needed.

I remember that you can definitely shut up it disabling Intel C1E state and CPU Eist functions in BIOS. Take in account that it will lead to higher power use at idle and higher temps at idle as well.

 

Maxes out to 87C auto fan in 28 ambient temp on first run. It just gets higher from there, if loops were done, up to 93 maybe more. In AC room with cooler boost.. loop temps are manageable. Below 90.

Screen below are the settings when the bench was done. Its about 2 to 3 weeks old i think.

 

Wow, even with high temps, you're still getting higher scores.
I'm using the IMON slope, custom fan curve, etc and I only get around the 1260 range. Temps max out at 81C after multiple runs in a 24c room.

I'm pretty jealous of you guys that can go -100mV+ on the CPU and cache. If I go above -75.2mV, cinebench doesn't finish and crashes.

 

Phew!! Congratulations!!

Those are awesome core temperature differential scores, like +-1c-2c

Man, I am sure glad you got a good one on the 2nd time around, I wasn't looking forward on trying to convince you to pull a 3rd one, "3rd times a charm!!", doesn't work as often as you might think!

Now you can enjoy your laptop, instead of pulling it apart and spending weeks "filing it down", that's really not what most people that buy their laptops for.

 

He's looking for the core temperature differential, not the absolute temperature. He can still tune and adjust to get similar performance to his last unit, and still maintain the same core temperature differential.

 

You probably couldn't return it telling the vendor that is the reason - low undervolt capability, but you can return within the 15 day - 30 day return period for any reason - just tell them "it's not suitable to my needs" - don't make anything up, just say it's not what you expected.

You can buy from the same vendor if you tell them, you'd like to try another sample of the same make / model - that way they aren't losing the sale - if they won't go for that and you still want another shot at a better undervolting CPU, return it and buy from another vendor.

I kept my low undervolting sample of a laptop once, and it was a great OC'ing unit, it just couldn't undervolt even at stock more than -15mV out of the box. But, it got great performance and lower temperatures without re-pasting, so I kept it.

YMMV.

 

i feel jealous of guys that can go -200mv or more. .

You've got great temps dude!

 

Those >-200mV Core undervolt settings aren't "real" undervolt settings, at least the ones that use ThrottleStop to set the CPU core undervolt greater than the Cache undervolt setting... the "real" undervolt is the lower Cache undervolt number, and the higher number on Cache "fools" the CPU in doing power limit calculations a bit, allowing for slightly better numbers in some benchmarks, it's really not worth it IMHO.

The real locked Core/Cache undervolt, keeping both numbers the same, is the number used by the CPU for voltage adjustment.

So if your undervolt number keeping both the same is higher than their lower Cache number, your real undervolt is actually higher than that >200 number set for the Core.

Intel's own CPU tuning utility - Extreme Tuning Utility, or XTU - locks the Core / Cache numbers to be the same since the 6th Generation CPU came out that was the first that stopped supporting real split Core / Cache CPU voltage offset's (undervolt).

 

Nah, I'm completely happy with my unit. Temps are good, great performance, etc. I just like seeing the same undervolt numbers as everyone else lol

Thanks!. I've been testing battery life and with my settings, I get a bit over 11 hours. This is just word processing. If I watch a 4k on Youtube or another site, battery shows ~8.5 hours.

 

Yes. However, If i push my core to -200mv, i see a 1 watt CPU consumption reduction in AIDA. That translates to better temps, which is my main objective. But getting it stable is another thing. It runs fine but crashes after a soft reboot, sometimes... sigh.

edit: cache is abt -145mv

 

Until you are stable it might be easier to lock the values together and focus on finding the reliable single real Undervolt setting.

Then after you have run for a couple of weeks stable without crashing, then branch out to chase the additional side effect benefits from spinning up the Core "undervolt", pseudo undervolt tweak.

Also, be sure and clearly quote your cache number as the real Undervolt, so as to avoid confusing those people not using split core / cache Undervolt into believing >-200mV is possible / normal.

 

Noted.

 

This is tremendous! I think mine shld be 2+hrs, but im on the plug almost always.... leopards got no stamina....

 

Hey guys, do you have any idea why benchmarking with prime95 isn't boosting cpu to 39x multiplier?
I ran several 3dMark tests and it stays nicely at x39, but when I stress test purely with prime95, the ratio stays at max 33x.

 

CPU TDP or Current Limit was reached.

In CPU VR Settings->Core IA Domain:

IMON SLOPE->50
IMON OFFSET PREFIX=negative
IMON OFFSET=31999
CPU VR Current Limit (ICCMAX)=800

TDC: DISABLED (Dragon Center enables this for you, awesomely).
TDC index/value/whatever: 0

(one of these may re-enable itself due to MSI Bios sphagetti bugs, but as long as the value is "0" OR TDC enable is set to DISABLED (either one), you are safe.

 

I don't think Dragon Center does that ...

 

I found this in my bios. Any idea what this -70 goes towards? What is everyone else seeing?
As an FYI, my throttlestop undervolt is -75.2mV. I wonder if this stacks with my throttlestop undervolt...




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You might ask @unclewebb - when splitting the undervolt setting for Core and Cache separately there may be some "marrying" factor involved - although I would expect the numbers saved in both registers to be represented exactly.

What are your Core / Cache undervolt settings, or are you only doing 1 setting for both now?