*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

The main SSD is into slot 1, so if anyone (like me) already has a 2nd non-NVME SSD and wants to install it into the GS 65, the PC needs a full Windows re-installation... Or it doesn't?

Is it possible to swap the position of the SSD without reinstalling Windows?

 

You can use any partition backup program such as macrium reflect. Enlarging the disk partition can be tricky but it's possible.

 

No, I want to keep Windows on the SSD given by MSI (which will be Nvme), but I have to move the SSD from the installation slot to the "only NVME" slot to install my "Data & Other Stuff" SSD in the proper M.2 slot...

Situation before:
Slot 1: MSI Nvme SSD with Windows installed- Nvme and Sata Port
Slot 2: empty - only Nvme port

Situation after
Slot 1: my Data SSD
Slot 2: MSI Nvme SSD with Windows installed

Will Windows get crazy after moving, or will it boot properly?

I haven't received my GS 65 yet, so I can't do it right now :\

 

Timothy, few degrees for sure, but I've done too much tinkering in throttlestop, bios and didn't write down settings vs temperature.
Trying to run prime95 and furmark I still hit 90 but with very little throttling 3.6GHz - 3.9GHZ fans at 100% in "SilentOption". I also run it undervolted (stable) -160mV.

LM probably would help more. Maybe some day I'll gather my resolve and disassemble everything again.
I'm getting 75 - 80C @ 3.9GHz CPU 72C GPU playing Witcher3 at highest settings. That is good enough for me.

Laptop is mostly silent during normal work day which is great for me (I do development and some WebGL / WebVR work )!

I was hopping for bit better quality of the case at this price point ( Aluminium is beer can thin . I guess, as always it is compromise weight vs case stability.

Using laptop mainly for work, customer service is very important to me. Both Gigabyte and Razer are not famous for that.
So I'll stay with this one, it's a nice laptop (once you remove that nasty red sticker) and are willing to do some tinkering in tools like throttlestop

 

@Skylake_ , I've added another drive and moved original SSD with working Windows from one slot to another with no problem. Do connect power supply after assembling laptop back again, mine wouldn't boot up without power connected (my heart skipped a bit )

I also used static protection (connected to earth).

 

Temperatures of my setup
: https://imgur.com/a/hKlYHsf

 

Can you post a pic where you put the tape to stop the creaking?

 

Actually Macrium Reflect makes it very easy, allowing you to draw the partition end as far as you like on the destination, and even "deleting" destination partitions you don't want from the source, giving you even more space.

 

Hmm, thermal throttling at 91c? Usually it's 93c...

Also, if you are just bumping the edge of thermal throttling, you won't know how often it's happening by hwinfo summary Max number, you need to turn on hwinfo64 logging with a 1 or 2 second interval, and see how often it actually hits that peak temperature, and for the most part most people find it's not often and most of the time the temperatures are in the low to mid 80's.

You might try starting the benchmark, then clearing the hwinfo64 readings - reset button is on button bar on bottom of hwinfo64 dialog. That gets rid of the early slow start autofan peak temps and you get a more realistic reading for in game temps. The autofan isn't fast enough to cool instantaneous changes and needs a few seconds to spin up the fans to dissipate the heat, then it stays caught up as long as the heat / load continues.

Thank you for posting all the detailed info.

 

Usually, yees. But in reality, NOPE!! And this MSI model ain't alone with this. Uncheck BD PROCHOT box may help, but not always (some notebook models is impossible to fix).

 

Yeah, the i9 high core count CPU's have much lower thermal throttling points as well, I'm just surprised these do as well.

I guess that's why more people are noticing thermal throttling happening at a lower temperature of 90c rather than at 93c.

The 100c max limit is still being enforced, so overall it's similar, I assume this change is to encourage laptop makers to improve cooling moving forward. Maybe Intel will continue to drop the thermal throttling point for this reason in future releases.

undervolting, fan tuning, FPS limiters, tilting the laptop rear a couple of inches higher than than the front to start convective cooling, all should help keep under that new lower thermal throttling point of 90c.

 

If your Cpu lying near the edge (even with max undervolting - Dust will fast build up inside the chassis. Be too near the throttle temp aint very smart) and the OEM's have put all too low BD PROCHOT temp limit, Only ThrottleStop will or may help. XTU won't do nothing for this... And it seems people have forgot this.

 

Yeah, that's BS, more FUD.

I've never had a dust problem with a laptop, and I've had a lot of laptops in a lot of environments over many many years.

And, 99% of the people that report "cleaning" their fans say there's no temperature change afterwards. It makes them feel warm inside, but has no effect on the actual thermal environment in the laptop.

Please stop spreading FUD.

 

Sure Maybe use 5 sec on put in a search

 

There is that 1% of people that don't vacuum, or are forced to use their laptops in a harsh environment, and filters over the vents - which I post links to regularly - will solve that too. A little intelligent search for preventive actions will prevent that from happening.

There's no reason to open your laptop if you take good care of it externally.

 

Can I have a link to those filters? Also, the only air intake in this laptop is the top, right? Or is it the top and the bottom?

 

I just added a blue link click point to the previous post for the general search; I don't necessarily want to force someone to a particular product - there are new solutions coming out all the time - so here is the general search:

https://www.google.com/search?q=laptop+fan+filters

With the specific one I ususally post to look at for ideas to do it yourself, or purchase from them directly:

Laptop Dust Filters
https://www.demcifilter.com/Laptop-Dust-Filters

Custom Dust Filters
https://www.demcifilter.com/Custom-Fan-Filters

 

Use that fan filter on bottom cover on most laptop models and you can see temp will increase in many of them. I have seen it. But thats me And I have seen more than 3 or 4 notebooks in my life So called cleaned up.

 

Yeah, anything to push the FUD, right buddy?

A fine mesh to catch fine dust might reduce air flow as dust builds up, but it's worth it to catch the dust on it instead of letting it into the laptop - and again for most people this is completely uncessary - you'll know if you have a dusty environment from the build up on other appliances, desktops, etc.

Try not to fall victim to the thermal FUD spread around here, it'll lead to a calmer more enjoyable life, and save a lot of wasted time and money at the same time.

 

You'll need to research that or someone here with one can test it out - a little smoke test - or tissue test - to see where it gets sucked in and blown out will do it, or just feel it yourself.

Most laptops have a fixed set of vents, but some do leak elsewhere - you can fix that if you weather strip it - internally or externally - but again that's probably going way further than necessary. If you are in a harsh environment there are sealed box / bag solutions for that too.

This post has a number of good links to start you off if you need such coverage:

Protecting PCs in a High dust environment
https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/1263865-protecting-pcs-in-a-high-dust-environment

This is the serious stuff

DustSheild Computer Enclosures
https://www.dustshield.com/

Originally those were great for reducing the noises of printers and other noisy hardware in an exposed or datacenter setting, also good for containing paper dust and keeping it out of the external environment.

 

Also, you got any ideas on how I can seal the gap between the plastic bezel and the aluminum screen back?

 

Not sure what gap you are talking about? The screen electronics get hot too, so they may need gaps for air flow in their design. Or, are they manufacturing goofs that they aren't fitting right?

A photo and arrow pointing to the gap(s) would help.

In general some soft non stick sealing form, usually comes in strips or rolls with backing "tape/paper". You'd either push it in or disassemble and place it where you want it, cutting it to fit.

Make sure you aren't blocking off air vents for cooling the screen area.

 

I can't let this go. The only thing that keeps your post from being FUD, is your disclaimer of "...people that report...". Who are these people reporting too? How is this data collected, analyzed and reported? How large is your sample? What data do you have to back that 99% up? I can tell you that if you have some source that reports this data to you, so that you can make this dubious claim, I would seriously reconsider your source.

I personally have over 100,000 customers as a sample. Many have reported their temps have increased over time. We coach them how to clean their fans. Over 90% of the time they 'reported' that the temps dropped significantly, and we never hear from them again about this issue.

 

Thank you so much, this is a great news!

New comparison review between MSI GS65 and Gigabyte Aero 15X

 

How often would you recommend cleaning the fans. In this laptop it’s a pain to get to them. Would you say once every 3-4 months, assuming your working in a relatively clean environment?

 

Ah, I found the major downside of the Best Buy model. Uses a sata lll drive instead of m.2. Not too bad, was expecting them to skimp worse

 

I bought the Best Buy 037 model. It's a pretty good deal since 256GB NVMe is not enough and I would add my own NVMe SSD anyway. In day-to-day use and also in gaming, the speed difference is not that noticeable. Only when I copy huge files that I can see the difference.
Another difference is use of the Intel wi-fi instead of killer 1550. But no bit deal.

 

No, that's too often, again even blowing out visible dust from the laptop won't affect the temperature enough to make a difference.

If you have so much dust that it is increasing the temperature, even 1c, you have a *mass* of dust bunnies in there.

In a relatively clean environment I've never *needed* to clean the fans, never. Even after 2 years of use at home and work. The last one I sold I opened up in front of the buyer to install his SSD's, and he looked closely and found no dust. And, I don't use external filters either.

The whole cleaning out the dust in your laptop regularly to reduce temperatures has a big zero benefit as far as my long experience has shown.

I've actually seen desktops with so much dust that they need to be taken outside and have bunches of it pulled out from around the motherboard, and even those only changed a couple of degrees - and those were 10+ years old.

 

Since everyone's environment and uses are different, there is no way to put a specific time on it.

A good rule is..."don't fix it if it ain't broke". The best way to tell is if you notice your temps have increased significantly over time. If you don't, then no worries.

 

Even the design of the laptop might have an impact - faster spinning fans might gather more dust. My turbo sounding HP and Asus laptops with small fans did clearly benefit of fan cleaning to keep the noise down. But my GT70 is still after 5 years almost dead quiet on desktop use - fan does rotate at about 1300 rpm. So I haven't cleaned it yet.

 

Since around 2010-2011 GPU makers were doing reverse fan startups to spin out any dust clinging on the blades, and laptop fan chambers had channels for dust to come out along the edge of the fan chamber, so dust mitigations have been around for a long time already.

I should mention that the 2 year old laptop I sold that when opened had Zero dust, was run 24/7 except when driving back and forth between work and home, was a G750JH ROG laptop. No dust after 2 years of constant operation.

But, enough people worry about dust that makers need to find ways to quell those fears, and here's a "new" old dust mitigation method by Asus for ROG laptops:

Anti-dust Cooling System - ROG Laptops | ROG
ASUS ROG (Republic of Gamers)
Published on May 3, 2018


My G750JH ROG laptop from years ago didn't mention having that feature, and it still didn't collect dust. If your laptop vents are large enough to suck in large plastic balls as shown in that video, then that Asus "innovation" will come in handy.

Many times I see guys wound up about thermals, their laptops running perfectly fine in the mid 70c's to mid 80c's - thinking they can reduce temperatures by blowing out the dust, and come back and post that they didn't find much if any dust and blowing it out didn't result in any temperature drop.

I blame it on the guys that wind people up about thermals for no good functional reason, and it really ruins the fun for a lot of people for no good reason. Instead of letting people know their laptop temps are fine and to go and have fun enjoying their laptops they insist that new owners re-paste and waste time and money chasing the low thermal tales they like spinning.

Just enjoy your laptops. They are running fine if they aren't thermal throttling under normal use. They aren't going to grow dust bunnies either.

 

These are my temps after some games Fortnite using Cooler booster. Settings are epic(view distance etc) / high for some. Temp on CU were about 62-64c and GPU about 75c. I maintain around 100 FPS. Mine is undervolted -140mV with 6th multiplier to 34.

What I found was that starting the game with cooler booster active actually lowers the temp throughout whole gaming session. When I tried to switch to lower rpm, the temp rose to about 77, and when I later activated cooler booster again temps just got to the 71-72c. Idk if it's just a coincidence. I'll try post more if things change.

 

I have just bought this one. Real beauty. But there is one thing I absolutely hate: Exactly in the middle of trackpad area, on the user side of the notebook metal case is extremely flimsy. I used to hold my thumb there when I had a MacBook pro, but cant do it with those plastic cracks and movement of the housing when I press it a bit from the side. Do you, other users have it same way or is it just mine?

 

Yup, have the same. Someone here put a tape inside and it helped. I decided am not going to disassemble for some time so can't tell you how to fix it otherwise.

 

Known problem unfortunately.

 

I just repasted mine today, Usually playing WOW ( I know) I get around 75c on the CPU. and it would spike to about 91. Now after putting kryonaut on it, Im playing in mid 60s with spikes to 84ish. The paste on the die looked like toothpaste....

 

Not a coincedence, what you do by starting with full cooler boost is to pre-cool the heatsink / heatpipe mass down low enough, and with continuous cooler boost keep it cool, so that the CPU / GPU can disappate heat through the cooling system without allowing the heat to build up and raise the temperature.

That's how I recommend doing benchmarking, if not heavy gaming, run the cooler boost to drop the temperature as low is it will go before starting gaming or the benchmark, to give the cooling system mass the lowest temperature possible to improve short and long term temps during a gaming session or benchmark run.

It's a bit loud, but if you are going for best performance at lowest temps that is the best way to get a head start.

On the other hand, your temps are so low they can be higher without affecting performance. As long as you CPU / GPU stay below the throttling point (90c-93c typically) your performance won't be affected, so you can run normal or custom fan curves as long as they keep the CPU / GPU below the thermal throttling point.

Save your ears and try to tune the fans for your comfort as well as the CPU / GPU's comfort.

 

Please let us know if and when the temperatures rise again, and it requires a repaste to keep temps low.

The consistency of the OEM TIM is designed to keep it from pumping out - the large perimeter of coverage around the CPU / GPU die is meant to keep oxygen from coming in under the die / heatplate and getting into the contact surface and drying it out - oxidizing the paste. This is done to ensure many years of stable operation.

Thinly applied performance pastes have a tendency to pump out or dry out given the flexible interface with laptops that flex - desktops aren't moved around much after tightening down the heatplate / sink, so they last much longer.

There are pastes like K5 Pro that are so thick and free standing they can be used as thermal pad replacements - not as efficient but able to hold shape in large gaps. It can also be used around the CPU / GPU die to block out air from getting to thin performance pastes - but again movement of the laptop can break that bond / protection.

That's why I recommend tuning the heat generation portion of the equation first, undervolt, tune the fan curve, set FPS limit, tune the multipliers for core and cache, all easy to adjust without tearing apart the laptop, before physically breaching the long term paste application put on by the maker.

Anyway, enthusiast paste effects can last for a while, or not, just keep an eye on the temperatures to know when the change starts happening.

 

Yeah keep undervolting until the CPU causes BSODs. Not a very efficient way of solving thermal issues.

A proper thermal metal like Thermal Grizzly's Conductonaut when applied carefully and surrounded by nail polish which takes 10 mins to do ensures that it does not spill over to the PCB if moved. I have it on my current MSI GT75 Titan and had it on my GT75VR Titan Pro and previous 3 Clevo laptops and I move around every single day from one cafe to the other and walk with my bag with the laptop lying vertically and guess what? it has never spilled.

Undervolting is ok to reduce temps to a certain extent but it has its limits as to how much you can undervolt.

Manufacturers often have the worst thermal paste application methods, they just put a pea dot and slap the heatsink on and call it a day which is why many people start complaining about heat issues with their taptops so don't go around telling people to stick to the manufacturer method which often, when one removes the heatsinks, discovers there is either very little or dried out thermal paste or it's all over the place in an uneven fashion or spilling out, there are much better ways to solve this. You've been spreading this wrong info and are against repasting all over the forums giving bad advice, it is time to let others explores their options.

Speaking of options, for non metal thermal paste applications, the X Cross method is the best as it provides the most CPU coverage with the least amount of air bubbles.

 

There's no "wrong info" about being against re-pasting. If people want to do it themselves to see how that helps things - great. But it is not necessary. These laptops are shipped from the factory and warrantied for at least 1 year for performance by the manufacturer. We shouldn't have to spend money on re-pasting unless we want to. Just like we shouldn't have to pay for "pixel perfect guarantees" or "Minimize display backlight bleed" or "display calibration" - that all of these authorized resellers pimp.

 

First world problems, a 10 USD repaste job.

No one is forcing you to spend money on anything all I'm saying and what others have told you and your buddy hmscott that if one is facing heat issues with his machine then repasting with liquid metal is the best solution without having to risk the CPU stability by undervolting as one can only undervolt so much.

So why do you think most other resellers often offer upgraded thermal solutions? To rob you off your whooping 10 USD or whatever fee they charge to improve on thermals? No! It is to improve on the mediocre stock thermal paste application by OEMs!

All of us enthusiasts here have tried them all and we know the difference between one laste and the other and suggest accordingly. You dont like it? Good for you, no one is forcing you to repaste but we WILL keep suggesting the best which is liquid metal whether you like it or not.

Oh and they are not warranties to not thermal throttle, we've all see how my GT75 was throttling with the stock MSI BIOS setting due to a low VR Current limit so dont even go there.

 

We shouldn’t but we do because manufacturer quality standards are too low. They have no issue shipping a laptop with dead pixels, severe backlight bleed or shoddy thermal paste. Their only concern is whatever bare minimum won’t generate a bunch of returns.

 

All well and good but I will keep suggesting to people that they try undervolting before they opt to re-paste. It just is not necessary. It is fun, helpful, cool, etc. - but absolutely not necessary.

This - precisely - which is why you should buy from somewhere with a good return policy for these issues.

 

I'd spend an extra $50 over playing the return game to get something that's "perfect". Heck even $100. Just saying...

I realize some might think that MSI should have these issues all ironed out. But if they increase their QC to that level, these laptops would cost a few hundred dollars more. Makes more sense to let the resellers charge the 5% of the customers that actually give a crap. The rest just power on their laptop and play.

 

I have crucial ballistix 2666 ddr4 32gb. I used the method to unlock the bios and put to xmp prof 1. It ended up not allowing the computer to boot. The only way i was able to resolve was to put the old memory in. Somehow that solved the issue and I reset the settings. Is there something I am doing wrong? I also tried XMP prof 2 and same problem.

 

I don't think I have ever seen a laptop that did not benefit by replacing the thermal garbage that get put on at the factory. Even some of the lousiest aftermarket thermal pastes are better than the waxy silicon postage stamp pad junk that they use.

 

If you did not have the overclocking switches set to enabled in the BIOS, that has been known to prevent some laptops from booting an XMP profile. Check all of the menus, as some BIOS have overclocking disabled in more than one place. If you do not find them, or if the stock BIOS has them hidden, installing XTU and setting even just a tiny overclock, like bumping the core multipliers by 1, can flip the overclocking switches on. Then you can try XMP again. A 2666 XMP profile is not very aggressive and should not be difficult for any current generation computers.

Installing your original (different) RAM is often effective at clearing NVRAM. If it did not have XMP profiles, it would automatically flip over to the default memory profile.

 

I'm tired of the @hmscott vs the world theme in this thread. It's like everything in the entire thread is a personal challenge towards this guy to refute, as he knows better than everyone else.

aka trolling.

Do any moderators read this thread? And do they care about this stuff, or does this site encourage this type of behavior to increase post count at the sacrifice of everyone else's time.

Sorry for my post being off topic as a result, but enough is enough.

 

You've already spent the extra $100-$300 more to buy your HID LM'd GS65 laptop, vs buying retail or discounted in a store or online elsewhere and learning how to tune the stock laptop.

There are far more people that buy at retail, from many other sources, and are interested in finding alternatives to spending more money on the purchase, or after the purchase risking re-pasting their laptop - either with non-conductive pastes or liquid metal.

There are a lot of things that will work to reduce thermals without the drastic measures of paying for or doing your own hardware hacking, that's how I try to help.

If you don't need the help I am providing, you can skip reading those posts, as I skip the posts I am not interested in reading.

 

Gigabyte Aero 15X vs. MSI GS65 Stealth Thin Smackdown- Light & Classy Gaming Laptops
MobileTechReview
Published on Jun 6, 2018
Lisa Gade compares the MSI GS65 Stealth Thin and the Gigabyte Aero 15X, two premium very light and slim 15.6” gaming and pro apps laptops with tasteful designs and nearly identical specs and pricing. Both run Windows 10 on the Intel 8th gen Coffee Lake Core i7-8750H 6 core 45 watt CPU with up to 32GB DDR4 RAM and a fast M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD (each has two SSD slots). They have matte, non-touch 144Hz IPS displays, per key backlit RGB keyboards and your choice of NVIDIA GTX 1060 or GTX 1070 Max-Q dedicated graphics NVIDIA Optimus. They’re both priced around $2,000. Our review loaners were provided by Computer Upgrade King- https://CUKUSA.com .
Watch ur review of the Gigabyte Aero 15X: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJYDC...
Watch our review of the MSI GS65 Stealth Thin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2FtP...


Edited to replace copycat channel link with Lisa's official channel...