*** The Official MSI GE75 Raider Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

I just received my ge75 just I'm doing a clean windows install is it true to not keep the dragon center will it cause issues with performance?

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I knew you would repsond haha. No killer for me thnx

 

Most us of have removed it correct. The fans run perfectly fine without it and the coolerboost button for max fans still works. Infact even my battery charging option is still working (Don’t charge until 60% or whatever forget).

 

Got mine through HIDevolution, still waiting on keys rip.

 

But is dragon center going to cause issues with performance?

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Very good point. Changed mem OC from +1220 to 0 and nothing is changed (<1fps in TimeSpy). Chip freq is more sensetive and +140 OC provides 5-6 fps.

Have a fresh windows install w/o DC2.0, no performance issues, but got ability to install and use Afterburner which is conflicts with DC 2.0. Fan control is replaced by MSI SilentOption.

 

What is DC2.0?

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Dragon Center

 

Is there way to use dragon center without the fan profiles?

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What exactly do you want to do with dragon center? The software itself is a recollection of various others software and functions as well. you can leave the fans on auto if that is your concern. Dragon Center does not cause problems on its own, but it does "clash" when you use other tools, which is why most people tend to uninstall it.

If you only want fan control, you can use Silent Option as far as I know. For CPU control you can use Throttlestop or Intel XTU. For GPU you can use MSI Afterburner. General temp/utilization monitoring HWinfo or HWmonitor (not sure if this one supports latest hardware?).

 

Of course! It helps, trust me. There is nothing wrong going with Intel over Killer, particularly when you have a preference, but when people start jump ship because they heard somewhere (not saying you), it slowly becomes a ripple that creates a distrust of certain brands, models, types, etc, that eventually you run into the point of.... why were they changing hardware to begin with?

Plus, as I mentioned for this case, I think they are literally the same card, so I am not even sure what sort of problem we would have going with one or the other.

Any choice is completely valid and you should never be forced to use something you don't like

 

Is there a way to verify that the settings in Throttlestop are actually applied? When I first got the laptop cpu temp would hit 91C -ish. I reformated the first time and reapplied the settings (-130mV) in throttlestop and temps never seemed to hit more than around 83C. Reformatted once again after I changed the original nvme drive for the Evo and temps were again over 91-93C after gaming for a bit. I just changed the factory thermal paste with Arctic MX-4 and now the hottest core is 89C (lowest 77C) after a few games of Warplanes, think it hit 91 after running timespy.

Not horrible temps, but still thought it'd be lower with the undervolt and better thermal compound.

 

Not only apply an undervolt, always check at which voltage you are currently running to know if the undervolt was applied.

 

What do you use to check the current voltage? If it's -130mV what should it be at?

 

I would like to use the app for battery calibration and other stuff rather then opening everything individually it will all be in the dragon center

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If I remember, throttlestop shows the VID under the CPU name on the top right corner? you can check your voltages without and with.

 

Update on NVIDIA Anthem + BFV promo, HIDevolution sent me my keys yay

Anyone wanna buy bfv cheap? Lol, already own it. Redeeming Anthem however.

Also, you DO NOT need to install GeForce Experience to redeem. Go here instead;

https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/account/redeem

*Edit, Anthem successfully redeemed , picked up the 1 month premier to play on the 14th though

 

Awesome news! Does the redeeming give you keys for origin or do you have to log into your origin? I might give away BF5 as well, anthem is the one I care about. I am glad it doesn't need GFE.

 

You just sign into origin and you got it!

 

It's dynamic based on clock speed, so there is no "right" answer to that.

Easiest way to confirm would be fire up HWInfo and see what it shows for a voltage offset.

 

@Lunatik I remember reading some posts behind in the other thread that you were fiddling with MSI afterburner, and voltage/clock curves etc, I wonder if you had any success manipulating the power of the full 2080?

While reading what others have achieves with pascal max q, I just got the silly idea of maybe trying to flash a full 2080 into the max q version, and then power limit it myself I suppose I would need to mainly limit clocks in the end...

 

Is there a review of the Dragon Center conglomeration of tools vs the individual ones? From this thread it seems some tools bundled in DC are not peoples favorite.

 

Sounds like you shouldn't buy a maxq lol

 

Hmmmm........... GE75........

 

GE75 kicks some serious butt.

 

OK, so as per a few requests I'm going to give a quick guide on how to raise your TDP and a few other BIOS tweaks on the GE75 (this applies to the 2060/2070/2080 with the i7 8750h, as these are just processor tweaks).

First off, I'm going to assume you know the BIOS unlock code, if you do not, you can PM me and I'll tell you how to do it.

Many of these steps are simply adapted from other MSI laptops that take similar tweaks, with the redundant changes removed (for example, SST is default enabled on the GE75, no need to turn it on, ASPM is disabled, no need to turn it off).

Credit to members:

@hackness - he also has an awesome guide for optimizing the 8750h, I recommend you also follow it: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...trol-of-the-i7-8750h-advanced-version.823065/

@Falkentyne

This is mostly compiled information from their findings, tweaked for the GE75.

WARNING: ANY BIOS TWEAKS PERFORMED THAT WILL NOT ALLOW THE COMPUTER TO BOOT ARE NOT FIXABLE. CMOS RESET DOES NOT CLEAR ALL BIOS OPTIONS, JUST MEMORY OPTIONS. YOU WILL HAVE TO SEND YOUR COMPUTER BACK TO MSI FOR REPAIRS. PLEASE BE VERY VERY CAREFUL, DON'T JUST GO EXPLORING. IF YOU PROCEED FORWARD, YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. PLEASE DO NOT BLAME ME FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE.

Preliminary steps:

Print this out or have it up on another device.

Reset throttlestop. If you fail to do this and have it scheduled to apply an undervolt on login, you'll BSOD every time you log in after doing these mods. Were going to do a tweak that has a very similar effect as a large undervolt.

If you do not feel confident tinkering in the BIOS, DONT. You can brick your laptop if you don't follow exactly. Stay away from any setting you don't explicitly know to change. I'm sorry to sound like a broken record here, but I just want to underline that there is risk involved if you veer off or accidentally change something you shouldn't.

BIOS tweaking:

Ok, so your throttlestop is all reset, and you've just booted back up and unlocked your BIOS. Wow, so many new options under advanced settings now!

Right, let's get to it:

Enabling C-State control (entirely optional)

• From the main BIOS menu, go to Advanced. Select Power & Performance, then CPU - Power Management Control, then View/Configure CPU Lock Options.
  • Find CFG Lock. Set it to Disabled.

​

AC/DC Loadline
A bit of a rundown on what this is in laymans terms. MSI has a 1.8mOhm resistor on board that is basically causing an overvolt to the processor.

This value by default is 180. It is compensating for the resistor. This is why you can run such a deep undervolt on these computers, you're making up for the resistor.

After changing this setting you will likely only be able to run a 40mv undervolt on core/cache, but it will perform similar/better than your highest undervolt prior.

• From the main BIOS menu, go to Advanced. Select Power & Performance, then CPU - Power Management Control, then CPU VR Settings, then Core/IA VR Settings.
  • Under AC Loadline set the value to 5
  • Under DC Loadline set the value to 5

​

IMON
This value will allow you to falsely report the TDP measurement of the processor, allowing you to reach much higher TDP without PL1/2 throttling. Throttlestop will show an inaccurate TDP reading after this. To see the real value simply add 32w to reported value ( Ex, when I am under max load I report ~33w. 33w + 32w = 65w actual).

• From the main BIOS menu, go to Advanced. Select Power & Performance, then CPU - Power Management Control, then CPU VR Settings, then Core/IA VR Settings.
  • Under IMON Slope set the value to 50
  • Under IMON Offset set the value to 31999
  • Under IMON Prefix set the value to "-" (This is very important, ensure it is not +)

​

Current Limits
This will allow higher current flow, as well as disabling Thermal Design Current (TDC) limiting.

• From the main BIOS menu, go to Advanced. Select Power & Performance, then CPU - Power Management Control, then CPU VR Settings, then Core/IA VR Settings.
  • Under VR Current Limit set the value to 928
  • Under TDC Enabled set the value to Disabled
  • Under TDC Current Limit set the value to 0

​

Energy Efficient Turbo
Disabling this will give a constant voltage for each turbo ratio.

• From the main BIOS menu, go to Advanced. Select Power & Performance, then CPU - Power Management Control, then View/Configure Turbo Options
  • Set Energy Efficient Turbo to Disabled

​

After all of this is done, save changes and reset.

Undervolting post Loadline modification:
So you're going to want to start very slow here. If your chip took to a great undervolt prior, I'd say start around 40mv, if not, perhaps around 20mv. (my chip will take 85mv with these changes and runs veeeery cool).

Now go benchmark your beast and watch how you never see PL1/2 again or EDP other.

For more advanced users, you can also go into the Overclocking Menu under Advanced Options and enable Memory Overclocking. Please proceed so on your own risk. I assume that if you pursue this, you know what you're doing. You can run some pretty damn high memory speeds on these laptops if you try.

I have a week off next week, during that time I will start working on developing a voltage curve for the 2070 model... It seems this card hits it's overvoltage and power limit under maximum load quite fast.

 

What do you guys have your fan set to? I played 3 games of Warplanes and the hottest core hit 70C with the fan on high, I like that temp

 

Dragon Center forces a phantom overvolt, you should remove it and use Silent Option.

YMMV based on your ambient air temp. It's like 16C in my apartment, so I run pretty cold.

GPU maxes around 69C, CPU around 78-80C in BFV with DX12.

 

Got a link for Silent Option?

 

http://download.msi.com/uti_exe/SilentOption_v1.0.1603.3101.zip

 

Thnx ya I found it, I installed and had a peek at it but I don't really need it. I run coolerboost with a headset on when I game so its kinda of pointless for me anyway.

 

Running fans over 100% constantly will greatly reduce their lifespan.

 

Fair point lol, will try it out. Is their anyway to test if the bios mod works? I tried it a while back when we talked and didn't notice a difference.

 

Check your reported TDP when you are benching. Unmodified it will hit 45+ and after about 28s (over 45w) you'll get PL2 throttling. Modified, it will never report over 35w or so, so you'll never see a PL throttle.

You'll notice it more if you're constantly hitting your power limits. If you never hit your power limit, you won't notice it.

My max TDP, using Prime95:


Plus the 31.99w from IMON settings, that's 68.5w

 

Ok looks like I was successful, I never hit PL anyway but hey why not. lol

 

Thank you sir. Perfect. Max temp is 83C now and it's not as loud!

 

Does the 2nd m.2 slot being so close to the heat sync concern anyone? Looking to order one of these and debating on my secondary 1TB drive. Either the 2nd m.2 or a SATA3 in the 2.5" (Samsung 970 vs Samsung 860, plan 512GB 970EvoPro in main m.2)

 

Not really. Air is a great insulator, and a little gap goes a long way. You can also throw a thermal pad under the SSD (the stock WD one has 2 under it).

I am using both slots currently (2x 960's), I only see a few degree difference between the drives when both are being worked, and that's probably just slight differences in production.

 

Well boys I cracked 10k on Time Spy. Thanks brother @AWholeHam

Bios TDP mod / -70mv undervolt

+175 core / +1200 mem

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/33458120?

 

Ranked #1 btw for 2080 notebooks w/ i7-8750h

https://www.3dmark.com/search#/?mod...NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 (Notebook)&gpuCount=0

 

I am noticing this vertical line on the screen and it is only there when a light blue background is present any other color is fine. Would anyone happen to know what this is?

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You can see it better with this background the line even shows in the bios screen.

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Eeeek... RMA time. ^

 

What could be causing this?

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Generally a sign of hardware failure.

 

But it doesnt show when the background is white

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Right-o, I got bored and decided I'd just start developing a voltage curve for the RTX 2070.



8138 timespy with a 8423 graphics score. https://www.3dmark.com/spy/6195999

That score was achieved with an underclocked and undervolted GPU. Better than my best overclocked score.

The 115w limit is very much the restricting factor on this card. A core clock above 1630MHz is unsustainable due to the voltage required (and thus the wattage consumed). Don't even bother raising your core clock, as you can see in my logging, you might get a few seconds at 2000+MHz, but you will quickly throttle down due to the wattage limit, making it pointless. It is instead more viable to hunt for the highest sustainable clock at the lowest sustainable voltage.

In my case, this was 1630MHz at 750mV. This will of course vary from chip to chip.

Now, in terms of memory clock. +1200MHz is quite stable.

For the $800 I saved vs buying an RTX 2080, I'd still call the 2070 quite a valid card, with only more performance to come, especially if someone releases a TDP lifted BIOS (as was done with the mobile pascal's). The power supply can handle a 2080, so I'd imagine a 150w TDP BIOS would make for a 2000MHz sustainable clockspeed and a good jolt in performance.

I should rephrase my other statement a bit. You might see slight benefits from an OC, but the time spent at a high clockspeed is very minimal, I personally would not consider it worth it.

 

Damn thats bad luck.

 

sorry dude..... https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/33463706? just knocked you off the top. only just though! no TDP mod yet.

 

if you look at that chart for the top scores its me and you one after another up and down haha