*** The Official 2019 MSI GS65 Stealth with RTX GPUs Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Added pic to the bottom:

https://imgur.com/a/ComA7G7

 

Figured.

IF you’re willing to try this...
READ THIS CAREFULLY.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-and-discussions-lounge.815216/#post-10705417

It’s the 2nd “spoiler” link.

I’m personally doing it. With an undervolt in throttlestop. I had to redo my undervolt though starting from 0.

But it’s up to you.

The biggest reason I don’t use Dragon Center is because it overvolts the CPU which can spike temps super fast.



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Hmm, if I keep either the 2060 or the 2070 I may try it. Still debating if I should keep one of these or the Razer.

 

In my personal opinion, skip the 2070 Max Q. It’s either the 2060 or 2080 MQ if you wanna burn more money.

You can probably OC the 2060 to be very close if not faster than the 2070 MQ.


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Hmm so what is the performance uplift from doing this? just eliminating power limit throttling? I know I asked a while ago but I'll ask again as I'm still curious, do your settings reset with a BIOS update or are they stored with the CMOS and will apply upon completing a bios update?

 

They stop power throttling and CAN reduce temps by stopping over opting made by dragon center. This results in higher FPS and lower temps.
Your CPU will hold its 3.9GHz speed unless it temp throttles.
Personally, I applied everything from the beginning of the article to the end of the IMON slope.
I then redid my undervolt to further reduce power draw and temps.


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I’m about to take a flight. I’ll respond back when I land.

Btw, been on a trip for 4 days with this laptop crammed in a bag with another laptop, iPad Pro, and other crap.
NO DENTS or bending.

Yup.


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New user here, so please forgive my ignorance...

Is there a definitive guide for undervolting? My GS65 w/2070 shows up tomorrow, and I would like to keeps temps low if I can. I plan on re-pasting with Arctic Silver 5, but keeping the stock pads for now.

Second question, how does the stock 512GB SSD perform compared to a 1TB Samsung 970 EVO? Should I keep the OS on the stock drive or do a full re-install?
I am especially curious if anyone knows if the 2019 model supports Bitlocker encrypted boot drive, with hardware support in UEFI/TPM and OPAL on the SSD so there is no cpu penalty for the encryption.

Thanks!

 

Can someone PM me the BIOS unlock code again pls?

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/index.php?posts/10861153

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Is it odd that I'm getting no CPU downclock when it's "throttling"? It stays at a steady 3.8ghz with zero issue... I thought hitting 90C was a problem on here but it seems to have zero performance effect

 

How much of an undervolt were you able to achieve after changing IMON Slope and IA/DC Loadline settings?

 

Underclocking and increasing the tdp can be done using Intel XTU, and what i meant when I said LM is to replace the stock thermal paste with a liquid metal thermal interface material, usually thermal grizzly conductonaut. Conductonaut is electrically conductive so it will short components if it comes into contact with them so it is not without risk.

 

When using loadline of 1, you are essentially running at the required voltage for your speeds, meaning the absolute minimum. You should not be undervolting further as it can be entirely unstable.

 

The absolute minimum can be reached via the IA DC loadline setting, read the posts on this thread carefully.

As for the stock SSD, its not going to be anywhere close to the samsung 970. That is top of the line. At best, it is going to be a normal nvme which is much faster than stock sata, but not on part with samsung. It is fine I personally use an HP EX920 which was the cheaper of the higher end nvme SSDs, and I am fine with it. It is several times faster than SATA ssds and while it is not as fast as samsung SSDs (which I use in my workplace laptop) I can't see any difference for normal usage at all.

As for bitlocker support, not sure, but I use bitlocker in my GT73. Its quite older (2 years) than the GS65, I would assume it does support it.

 

After a bios update you might need to redo the settings.

 

This is my personal opinion as well. There is a large differential in performance between 2060 and 2080MQ, but not so much for 2070MQ. But that's just me. 2070MQ is still a step up.

 

For my 3.9GHz-4.1GHz profile, ~100mV.

I went through a lot of stability testing to get this, haven’t had issues at all.

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This is definitely something I will have to look into especially for the longevity of the machine. unrelated but has anyone ever had to get a new fan on their laptop? and if so how easy is it to track down replacement fans

 

I havent had the need to ever change a fan on any of my msi machines but if anything we can ask MSI directly, check sites like ebay for compatible fans, or ask resellers here if they can help get the parts. Its nothing I am worried about to be honest.

 

It depends on how the thermal throttle limit is set, usually it's 93c, sometimes it's lower, sometimes it's higher. For your's it must be higher than 90c...

 

You’re still throttling since you’re not at 3.9GHz but it’s not as bad as other units that go below 3.5GHz.



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Sometimes BCLK isn't exactly rounding to an even top boost advertised, like in his case 3.88ghz *is* 3.9ghz advertised:

Since that post he's lopped off the last .08, and is only saying 3.8ghz which sounds like a full step down, but it's really 3.88ghz, which in his tune is 3.9ghz full boost.

What thermal throttling point are you seeing? 90c or 93c?

 

If it's not been pointed out already: he's got RTX On in that video, hence the lower than expected frames.

 

I played some BF V yesterday (finally got my RTX promo codes!).
With the game on Ultra with RTX on (Ultra), my setup was between 45FPS and 65 FPS, averaging 58ish when eyeballing it.
Temps with my setup was 75c for the CPU, 71c for the GPU, laptop elevated and with my fan profile.

I updated my review to recommend LM on this laptop since I’m able get max temps of 85c CPU and 76c GPU on auto fan with no elevation or undervolt.

It would be cool if MSI sends me the next refresh at the end of the year (Assuming 9th gen processor refresh) so I can test a full retail unit and see what needs to be done to make it function properly as-is with no repasting.


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I figured with RTX On these laptops would get significantly hotter. Thanks for the info @JRey here's hoping MSI give it to you as well

 

With RTX ON self-throttles performance, frame rate drops in half, reducing the load on the rasterization half of the GPU, reducing power and thermal load. Less FPS draws less power from the CPU too.

 

I’m running a lot of tests now between my 3.9GHz-4.1GHz profile and my 3.5GHz-3.7GHz profile. Honestly, most games show no real performance drop unless you’re going for ultra high FPS but even then, the difference is pretty small.

For those of you that have a retail unit, I’d give it a try. Yes, you’re not getting the all the performance that the CPU has to offer but unless you REALLY need it, downclock the CPU and use that as your main. You’ll get VERY SIMILAR FPS while reducing your temps by at least 5c.

Personally, I have my computer start with the 3.5GHz profile. When I bench or if I TRULY need the extra performance, I switch to 3.9GHz.

Just my 2 cents anyway.


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I am actually going for ultra efficiency lately. Even in my GT73, thanks to @Falkentyne efforts and testing for the voltages of these CPUs, I am now running at the least possible voltage at the highest clocks. I can run 3.7ghz on 1.12v or so on my CPU and I barely reach the 45W TDP when stress testing, with super low temps in comparison. For comparison, when benching at 4.4ghz, I had such high voltages and my TDP was over 100W, it was insane.

Anyways the point is that this does sacrifice performance for higher refresh but in turns gives quieter usage, and lower temps. I only use 4.4ghz if I want to bench, otherwise I use and play at 3.7ghz lately.

 

Anyone with a 2060, what NVidia Drivers drivers are you running? I've tried many times to get latest 418.81 but just can't get the installed. Stuck on the installed 417.49. the 2070 I have updated fine.

 

Forgot to mention that I've tried to use DDU in safe mode as well but 417.49 keeps coming back.

 

Are you using standard or DCH drivers?
I can only get DCH to work.



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I can’t upgrade either . On top of that 3dmark sees it as a generic vga adapter.

Windows is fully updated, but the Nvidia installer does not see the 2060 and GeForce experience says I’m on latest drivers, but gives little information beyond that.

I may mess with it sometime this evening but so far no luck. If I force the system to only use the 2060 I actually get worse performance by a huge margin. It’s really.. odd.

 

Standard Fails with error and Geforce Experience / Windows update will only give the 417.41 drivers.

 

Yeah, I was runnine a few Firestrike tests this morning and it was giving some super low scores in the 1000-1100 mark.

https://www.3dmark.com/fs/18228003

 

Well I tried uninstalling everything, reinstalling the latest drivers, no go. 417.49 is all I can get.

 

I’m running the DCH drivers now.
The difference between standard and DCH is that you need to download Nvidia Control Panel from the Microsoft Store.

If you decide to go DCH, try this as it worked for me.

-Download the latest driver from Intel and Nvidia. Make sure they’re DCH.
-Next, download DDU from Guru3D.
-Turn on airplane mode and run DDU into safe mode.
-Uninstaller Nvidia GPU first, choose “do not reboot”, then uninstall Intel with reboot.
-After reboot, install intel and reboot.
-After reboot, install Nvidia. Reboot.

Done.

Keep in mind that I’m having issues downloading the Nvidia Control Panel. Not sure if you’ll experience it as well.

Also, extra points if you download the Driver slimmer on Guru3D and slim down the Nvidia driver.

GLHF.


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Port Royal.

CPU and GPU at stock with undervolt - 4207
CPU undervolted, GPU +140 core, +500 mem - 4256




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Can someone with the 2080 version post your Userbenchmark result?

 

https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/14532077

LMAO, I wonder why I couldn't render with the 2080MQ

 

Hey guys, I added new stuff to post #4
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-and-discussions-lounge.827160/#post-10853427

Also, I added a new UltrabookReview review with a 2080 Max-Q

 

Has anyone received their 2nd power adapter? I ordered one with my unit from HIDEvolution and it still hasn't even shipped (it dropships from MSI, it seems)...I contacted Donald to see what's up.

It's the top unit - I'm going to go hunting on eBay...

I wasn't a huge fan of this review - he had not used last year's model but mentioned multiple times how there was not many changes. If he had used the 2018 he would have noticed quite a few tweaks. It's night and day for me. I get that it's an evolutionary "upgrade" and mostly GPU...but they did make some nice chassis improvements.

 

Yea, I didn’t like the review much either. It kind of bothered me that he went off last years information like he knew what was up lol... but hey, performance numbers!


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https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/com...tracing_improvements/?st=JRXOXM1X&sh=a2645f78

Yay! And guess who’ll be running tests


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I ran a DLSS test on the Final Fantasy 15 Benchmark tool.

Settings:
-4K (required in the benchmark).
-All graphical settings maxed out.
-My CPU was at 3.5GHz-3.7GHz mode.

Before DLSS
-Score of 2346 (23FPS)

DLSS turned on
-Score of 3252 (32FPS)

That’s a 39% increase in FPS! As for visual quality, I didn’t see a difference. This is super exciting!
Next week on February 12, Battlefield 5 is getting a DLSS patch. It’ll be cool to see what FPS will be like once it’s out


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Honestly, I expected a bit more from the 2080 max-q :/

And looking at this graph from the FFXV benchmark site it seems like the 2080 max-q is severely underperforming.

 

That chart is at “high quality”. I had settings ABOVE the high quality preset.

Without DLSS on high quality, I recall getting 3200ish points.
If scaling is correct, it should get around 4500 with DLSS on.


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Hi JRey

Out of curiosity how did you figure out which one is the combo and which one is the NVMe only?

I just got the RTX2060 version (8SE-053AU), although it's Australian stock it should till the same motherboard setup in term of SSD slots. I want to install a SATA m.2 2280 SSD and trying to figure out which slot.

I had opened up my laptop, and after removing the stock ssd (from slot 1), both slots look the same. Or is this different from what you had? Just trying to avoid finding out that a SATA m.2 won't work in either slot because both are nvme only.

Uploaded photos of my SSD slots here:
https://imgur.com/a/od5gKQ5

 

Hey guys wondering if anyone could help me with a weird issue I'm having with my laptop. So this is the second time this has happened, both times my second NVMe SSD would disappear from windows explorer and I would go to restart the computer, only to be greeted by the MSI boot logo and no way of continuing or entering the bios.

I fixed it previously by removing both drives finally getting access to the bios and reflashing it. But where I'm at now I don't have my tools and am also concerned that it's happened twice, if anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them and would be willing to try them

 

Hi Michael I had a similar but slightly different issue. I have the RTX 2060 version for the Australian market, but it really shouldn't be any different to the others.

I had installed an NVMe 1TB in SSD slot 2 (it was a Crucial P1 if that matters). My laptop would be stuck at the MSI logo, I can't get into BIOS.

I then removed the expansion SSD only (leaving the stock SSD with the OS installed). It would then boot normally. I then installed the expansion slot again. It would again boot normally, this time recognising the expansion SSD.

Because I was having other issues with the expansion SSD, and I wanted to test if the SSD was faulty or my laptop was faulty, I decided to swap the slots (so the stock SSD with the OS is now in slot 2 and the expansion SSD is in slot 1). Again, with both SSD slots installed, my laptop failed to get past the MSI logo or get into BIOS. I then removed the expansion SSD from slot 1, and left the stock SSD in slot 2. It then booted up normally. I then added the expansion SSD into slot 1. It also booted up normally.

My conclusion from this is if you try to boot with both SSD slots at the same time, it will be stuck at the MSI logo. If you install one at a time, boot it up, and then install the other one, it should work normally.

I know it's a massive pain (and risk) to keep opening it up (I probably did it 6 to 7 times) but it does get easier.

Hopefully this is the case for you as well, and booting them one at a time fixes it for you.

On a related note you mentioned windows will stop recognising your expansion SSD. I had the same problem, it occurs when I try to load game files from it. Except in my case, rebooting a few times will let windows recognize the expansion SSD again (and mine didn't get stuck at the MSI logo). But as soon as I load up a game and try to load a saved file from that drive, it would lose the connection and windows won't recognize it until I reboot a few times. So that's why I swapped the SSD drives around to test if the SSD was broken or the slot was broken. I ended up returning the NVMe SSD and want to replace it with a SATA SSD instead, hoping that would work better.