The NEW MSI GS75, 8th GEN Intel, NVIDIA RTX GPU with GDDR6!

What you guys think? I went and re-pasted this thing, and didn't clean up or put more paste on the VRM inductors. I just basically left it and stuck it back on. Kind of bothering me now that i'm thinking about it. Is it necessary to go back in and put some new paste over them? I can't imagine it really does much as they factory even left kapton tape over them right?

 

Its almost never a good idea to just leave it as is, because you potentially add air bubbles between device-paste-heatsink, reducing the overall effectiveness. That being said, I immediately changed those pads with fujipoly thermal pads.

I am getting the itch of trying liquid metal on the laptop, but I need to prepare the heatsink first, as it's not properly even and has a lot of imperfections to the touch. Plus depending on the job I will need to to it a few time as gallium is absorbed, before it becomes longer term.

and I am not gonna even use it!

 

Thermal pads make more sense there than paste i feel like. I might go ahead and get some pads for it then. I mean, I don't have any thermal issues with it right now though GPU and CPU wise (well i do, but as good as it'll get with Kryonaut in this thin thing lol).

Do you know how thick of pads you used over the inductors? I feel like it has to be really thin, or else the other components might not make contact, unless you really squish it down.

Thanks!

 

I used 0.5mm pads

 

Maybe now it's a partial shunt mod where theres some solder residue that reduces the resistance across the shunts or maybe the heat from the soldering iron messed with the resistance of the shunts.

Either way that's nice to have lol.

With the shunt mod hwinfo will show an inaccurate tdp reading.

And yeah, desktops are going to get exciting again once ryzen 4000 comes out along with nvidia ampere and RDNA 2

 

Impatient update lol... I opted to just throw some MX-4 on the chokes. I figure that i'll probably not have much use for them in a while, and I already had MX-4; along with the fact that it was gonna take 3 weeks to arrive. Used Kryonaut on the CPU/GPU and MX-4 there. Figured that would be best.

Thanks for the suggestion though. I didn't know about those Fujiploy pads, seems like they are regarded as the best ones available. The next laptop I performance tune will definitely get those!

 

You should have removed the plastic on top of the chokes though.

Regarding thermal pads I'd recommend Gelid GP extreme for a cost effective and high performance thermal pad. Thermal pads are usually used on lower heat components so the conductivity doesn't matter as much. And they are very soft so you won't have to worry about insufficient heatsink pressure unlike with fujipoly pads which are quite hard.

For the chokes just use paste, I tried 0.5mm pads there and they were too tall resulting in poor contact for the mosfets which are the the one that really need cooling.

 

I thought maybe there was some sort of engineering reason why the kapton tape was on there; such as maybe they didn't want electrical conductivity to the other components. That's why I left it on. I don't know though, they could have just left it there as a mistake too.

I'll probably get like a sample pack of different thicknesses and brands to play around with next time. Thanks for the suggestions and help though!

 

I am pretty sure HWinfo64 read my power wrong so as you said, it probably ended up as a partial shunt mod. In particular one of the resistors, the one I "knocked off" was probably done-for, and that part remains shorted, so I only undid one of the resistors.

Power limits were kicking in, yet power reading was wrong. Do you know how these resistors are used? In the end, I am sure one of my resistors would need to be replaced if I truly wanted to undo the mod, so I am stuck with this as is. Unless I pay for a professional service to redo the soldering as I lack the tools and time to fix it myself.

Seeing as things ended, I maybe be forced to perform the LM paste job at some point. Or permanently underclock my hardware to ensure it remains cool. At this point I don't think even reverting to the old 80w vbios would do much, seeing as tdp readings are gone through the gutter hahaha.

 

Oh yeah if the hwinfo readings are still really low then the shunt mod is still there.

I've damaged my Zephyrus G15 while trying to undo the shunt mod on that (crappy heatsink couldn't take the extra heat) and I also damaged one of the resistors due to heat (it had really small shunt resistors). So, I ended up bridging one of the two shunt locations directly and using the one good shunt on the other and voila, power limit is back.

I suspect on laptops one of the shunts is for the memory and one is for the core. So you can try transplanting the good shunt onto the other pad and the power limit should be restored.

If you want to run on paste and not go though soldering again set a 140mhz core offset, then flatten the curve after 800mv. That gave me similar temps as the 90w power limit config.

 

Thanks for the recommendation, I will look into it because this definitely means my shunt mod is permanent hahaha. I will flatten the curve and set the offset to see how it works.

 

Hey guys what's up, im new into this GS75 world and it's amazing, i had a GF65 Thin and it just feel so good this gs

However im having some issues, so, first of all im not sure why but i feel like the undervolt it's not applying, like, i had a gf65 thin with rtx with -130 and -125 x37 speed clock and it was between 84-89 and gpu 83-86 (however gf65 thin it's really small compared to this laptop, i did repaste it however)

But on this one, no matter what i do i feel like the undervolt it's just not there, if i have it in stock it goes up to 97, with undervolt applied (-130 cache, 125 core) and with 128 Speedshift with x36 clock speed it goes up to 90, the only way i can get it to 84-85 it's with x34 clock speed, im not sure what's wrong do i need to repaste it? is it hard to open (i saw there is teardown on youtube but sitll) i tried deleting dragon center and using silent option with csm, it was the same i checked the undervolt with hwmonitor and still it shows applied

i followed every guide from reddit to this one. the gpu its like 70-80, it gave me bsod in a few benchmarks such as unigine and 3dmark but i suspect it was because it had a good undervolt

I would really appreciate your help (also when this fixes i want to try the battery guide)
T

cheers

 

The undervolt is measurable and shows in software that can read offset data. Run HWmonitor and see what voltages it shows. Your high temps are sadly expected and it is best to repaste along with undervolting.

In my case I have the max undervolt possible and recent repaste and my max temps still are near 90 when I push the CPU hard. There's just no way about it. This is heavily affected by ambient temperatures. We have about 35 celsius indoors temps right now so my temperatures skyrocket.

 

Thanks for answering, however, after lowering to x34 still it's normal to see 90? i mean in my GF65 Before it had better temps, i expected better

Still i love it, thank you for answering!

also, how long does usually battery lasts? mines it's about 4 hours and a half, its that normal even after the notebook guide?

 

It's not normal to have such temps at 34. The temps I told you for mine are at the default max of x39. You should definitely repaste. It's probably sporting a bad factory pastejob.

As for battery it really depends. The max I have seen is around 5 hours, the min about 2 hours or so. I don't use mine in battery mode for prolonged time, so I have seen about 3 hour tops with still some spare battery myself.

 

Has anyone else been struggling lately with Nvidia Optimus? I know this is a gaming machine but I also like having the battery power and reduced heat whenever I'm just surfing or working on something.

Using the latest (as of end of May) drivers for Nvidia (446.16) and Intel (27.20.100.8280). I've also tried going back to MSI's official drivers for both, using DDU in between installs. Not using Corsair iCUE or running Afterburner. I've tried stopping Throttlestop and preventing it from starting up. Dragon Center uninstalled. Nothing showing in the GPU activity tray icon. Disabled all non-Microsoft services, reboot reboot reboot, no change. Still have the orange light.

I went into the advanced BIOS and set the primary display adapter to iGPU and got a white light, but of course no Nvidia chip detected by Windows in that scenario

I'm thinking this is a display driver issue, and need to wait for the next one, or roll back a few months. I tried April's and March's releases but no change.

 

Some stupid program is waking the light. I went thru all running programs and put them to use Intel on Nvidia CP/3D settings. Some of them were (on old GT70) Mailwasher Pro, Windows Photos, SCM, Dragon Center, VGA OC, perhaps browser using HW acceleration, don't remember all but a longish list.

 

This. As zipperi mentioned, there is most likely one or more programs that is using the dGPU, for whatever slight task, causing it to be ON. For me it's almost like seasons. Right now it's working fine and the white light is on. But I did have about 2-3 months in a row where 99% of the time the orange light was on and nothing I did would stop that. It fixed itself and by that, perhaps an update changed which damm program was using the dGPU haha.

I am not doing anything particular right now, the latest nvidia drivers are working fine, and I even have dragon center installed and my iGPU is working correctly.

 

Ah thanks for the replies! Yeah...I keep telling myself to let it go and it'll resolve itself since I've tried so many different things already, but I'm too stubborn haha.

I figure something is pinging the dGPU, enough to keep it active but not enough such that Nvidia tools can see it. I wish I could just see what it is!

I went through the list of apps in the Nvidia Control Panel and all looked good to me, but I'll try setting some of the apps zipperi mentioned to Integrated explicitly. And other than that, give up until a software update fixes it (and breaks it again down the road lol).

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

 

Was mostly looking @Zephyrus and scars but now found this laptop. I am looking for something premium with good build quality, that can handle many apps opened at once (so mostly light load). To not read whole thread, was wondering what are the biggest issues with this laptop? Any coil whines or to loud or something like that?
How is MSI product reliability? My asus products were mostly living long... current laptop is 7y old with no problems (that was main reason why I was looking asus)

I am looking @G75 with i9-10980, 16gb, 2070. I don't play games but work on laptop.. 10h+ per day

 

As far as I can tell, the main issue is temperature- mostly that it runs hot, so in general users focus on that.

This is particularly relevant for gaming but for light use, I don't think you will encounter a problem.

Another particular issue seems to spawn from the temperature- The keyboard back light individual LEDs might die of early, and so far it's being attributed to hot running temps, like when gaming. My personal unit is mostly used as an office device lately, though I did game for a while for prolonged periods of time and so far my keyboard is intact.

Anyways for general use and work I have loved my GS75. Using windows on a big screen yet thin profile and easy to carry device packing a lot of performance is great. The fast refresh rate works wonders for windows.

I also dig the look personally

 

Seems like temperature is issue of all the new thin laptops so nothing new there..
thnx for the info, I will have GS75 in mind for sure

 

it dep

it depends, mines just had bad repaste, overall it's pretty solid, i like the RGB, the dragon center or silent app keeps the laptop silent if you configurate it, undervolt help, however i would recommend the i7 one there isnt that much difference plus better cooling with the i7, with what you can save you can get 32gb and you can have many apps at once so yeah, you can get that one

 

My gelid GP extreme pads just arrived and I just did my finest repaste job yet. I've relapped the heatsink and this time even the cpu and gpu dies to the extent that even the sandpaper glides along its surface with little resistance. Again, LM on the cpu and carbonaut on the gpu. I don't think I can do a better job than this.

I'll be doing an exotic cooling bench in a month or so. Wanted to get LN2 but a dewal was just too expensive for a one time experiment so I'll be using CO2 fire extinguishers to blast the system.

 

guys i got the gs75 stealth with 10875h (8 core) and supposedly a better thermal paste is installed. however when i do a stress test with prime95 the temps am getting are:
96 - 93 - 100 ! - 95 - 98 - 94 - 95 - 92

for gpu it never goes above 76 only

do u htink those temps are normal or what ?!...

 

If you are seeing temps like those the thermal paste is clearly garbage.

 

i did the test again with cooler boost active and got these temps:

http://grabilla.com/0a81e-fbb9f4fc-f247-4cc4-8552-01b7d6304ca8.png

while throttled to 3.3 Ghz i believe,

any tests out there id like really to compare my results towards others !...

thanks,

 

so ur saying u will never reach 99c even if at the maximum clock under stress test ?? do u have a super chip that keep cool and never throttle down and maintains highest clocks possible ??

 

Not a super chip, liquid metal. Its an essential upgrade. My GS75 hits 86°C cpu and 72°C gpu when stressing with both cpu and gpu with prime95 + Unigene heaven 4.0. When stressing cpu only it only reaches 76°C with prime95 and this is with power limits removed.

Since you're using an 8 core cpu its even more important that you replace the stock paste with liquid metal as your cpu is sure to run hotter as it consumes more power.

 

Has anyone else tried carbonaut by thermal grizzly? They said it has good heat dissipation. My thermal paste for gs75 8sf is due, so planning to go on either a paste or the carbonaut.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

 

I'm using carbonaut on the gpu. If you lap the heatsink until it has a mirror finish, carbonaut will perform as well as liquid metal.

 

You mean to say sand the heatsink with a smooth finish? I assume both will go well for cpu & gpu.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

 

Yes. But not just smooth, mirror finish. I used 1000 to 7000 grit sandpaper and did wet and dry sanding for every grit.

 

Holy! I guess that's a lot of work to do.

But I think that's doable on my case. I'll do it this weekend if time permitted and will post some pics of the sanding.

Assuming my heatsink will be the same as my other laptop, like it has this grit-like texture, I should totally need to sand it to get a better contact with the die.

PS:
Since we both have the same setup, how'd you manage to remove the fans? So they wont get wet during the sanding. Is there some sort of screws holding them fans?


Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

 

You can't remove them. Just try to isolate the fans from any water. The heatpipes are pretty long so the fans are pretty far away from the coldplate.

 

Did the same on my GT75, at 1500 wet and dry sand paper my heatsink was already reflective, takes a bit of work, but the stock heatsink was awfull, but even 200 grain wet and dry makes short work of the cooper.

Just make sure and use either a flat counter-top or a thick(over 5mm thick) piece of glass as your flat plane to lay the sandpaper on.

 

Got back my 1st place in timespy
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/51409083

And did a run for Port Royal as well which got 1st place by a sizeable margin
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/378424

 

I notice artifacts (random horizontal lines) , when I set turbo mode on dragon center, intensity linked to core overclock, ONLY on the external monitor not in the screen laptop. The worst is when I disable overclock I get random artifacts sometimes, almost imperceptible. When I play games in laptop screen everything is fine even in turbo with max settings. I tried everything, from switching cables usb c , hdmi , update drivers.....

Any ideas? Thx

 

Hey everyone,

I'm looking into modding my GS75 9SF (9750H / 2070 Max Q), and I wanted to check if anyone knows where can I find a 90W vBIOS for the 2070 Max Q?

Thanks.

 

Found it. Apparently they messed up my 9SF as well (with the 80W BIOS). Big thanks to @Malus01.

 

What's the advantage of using Carbonaut on the GPU (instead of LM)? Or is the pressure too low to apply LM?

 

Doesn't last long. The large die makes the LM clump together so dry spots form quickly (3-6 months).

 

Thanks. I'm actually considering lapping and nickel plating the heatsink (just the spots I'm going to apply LM on). Hopefully, that will help with the clumping / drying up.

 

Tried that, doesn't work. Thats why I switched to carbonaut + perfect mirror finish

 

Even with nickel plating (the heatsink)? I was hoping that "seal" LM in place and stop copper from extracting it and drying it out.

 

Yes nickle plating will prevent it from "drying out" but that's not the problem.

The large die causes the LM to pool together as the cohesive forces of the LM overcome the adhesive forces it has with the heatsink. A rougher heatsink will actually fare better but there's no guarantee it'll work

 

I got the GS75 Stealth with 2080 and i7 9750h currently. What is the absolute best cooling past I can get? Using thermal pads on the laptop right now. I am currently unable to undervolt with Intel XTU. I am not sure if it is because of my bios or if it is related to windows 10. Without undervolting I get a bit more fan noise. Oh one more question, what keys to get into the bios. I find myself pressing a bunch of keys to get in the bios but would like to know which exact keys get me in. Thanks!

 

Liquid metal is the best. I have the same model and I'm running undervolts fine even on the latest bios

Join the msi discord here https://discord.gg/ARYX6Ud

We have many tips and guides there that you can follow to optimise your laptop

 

What bios are you running. My GS75S Stealth US model 242 is running bios E17G1IMS.10C

There is a new bios that was released is version E17G1IMS.111. Thinking I might give that a shot. Do you have an older bios installed?

It's my understanding many cannot undervolt through XTU any more because of some windows patch or bios update that prevented a certain exploit. This is what I get for updating my bios apparently....if it isn't broke, don't fix it.

 

I have the latest BIOS version and I can (still) undervolt with Intel XTU. But I have the 9SF model (with 2070), but that shouldn't make a difference.