The NEW MSI GS75, 8th GEN Intel, NVIDIA RTX GPU with GDDR6!

This is about the thinner MSI GS75 Stealth 9SG. Totally different than the MSI GT models.

 

Sorry, I know absolutely nothing about those. And my BGA Killer 2.0 system won't allow me to know anything about them

 

I know MSI likes to "recycle" EC code, so if you guys want to experiment for yourself with the EC, feel free to post your findings.

Download RW Everything and go to the embedded controller.
Here is all I can tell you (this was for GT73VR and GT75VR. What you do on newer systems is at your risk!! If you break something I don't want to hear about it)

EC RAM Locations:

"E3": Controls master system power limits (video card detection). Not read only, can be changed.
"F0" or "F1" (controlled iGPU->dGPU switching)
"30": Depends if you are on internal or external monitor
"31": Charge port. Value: 09=fully charged. 03=charging. I forgot but I think values 01 and 02 are for if you're using an external monitor and on AC or charging. If internal battery is removed, this can be set to 09 to prevent "NOS" throttle from no battery detected or Battery below 30% (normally limited to 60% power draw). Note: must be combined with EC register 42 if battery is removed!
"42": Battery status level: 64=100% in hexadecimal. If battery is removed, set it to 64, along with register 31 set to 09.
"C5": NOS "flag" active or inactive (read only)
"D7": turns your laptop into a bomb, counts down to 0 then instantly powers it off.

 

I tested with the multimeter and turns out the converter I bought was a dud.

What a relief.

Anyone know where to get quality 7.4*5.5mm to 5.5*2.5mm converters?

Only ones I can find are cheap Chinese ones that cost under a buck each.

 

Cut your original charger and the 330W charger cord, solder then, heatshrink over the solder, and a couple layers more for strain relief, I wouldn't trust having such adapters when pumping 17Amps through them.

 

The 330w bricks use torx security screws. Discharge over night then open it up and solder the cable in properly for an OEM look. I've put up guides in the past. Efficient and safe.

 

Took the converter apart, salvaged the jacks and soldered them together.



Works like a charm.


Hell yeah. Will be insulating it later.

 

Yeah unfortunately I'm EC limited.

Apparently it wasn't the old adapter shutting off, it was the EC limiting total system power to 230w.

@Falkentyne is there a way to cross flash ECs?

If it possible I might try flashing the EC of the i9 GS75.

 

Power design is unreadable.
Is your current EC firmware 17G1EMS1.107? This is the latest version used by GS75 regardless of CPU configuration.

 

If you had the old GT models who also offered Sli, this would be so much easier. I think you're screwed with what you now have. MSI and battery boost with the EC cap have been a downturn as long I remember.

 

What's are the differences between the older and newer EC versions? Bios too.

Are there any significant changes other than bios updates with intel vulnerability mitigations?

I'm still on bios version E17G1IMS.10c and EC version 17G1EMS1.105

 

Intel mitigation's impact is very little, the EC is the major factor here since it controls all aspects of power flow, functions, etc.
The limitation has been part of EC since the market release.
Perhaps you can check with MSI support to see what they can do for you.

 

New high score but only just https://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/22309547/fs/22642443

26321 vs 26225 firestrike graphics

Cracked 10k graphics on timespy as well

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/46827874

 

Open EC RAM (Embedded Controller) in RW Everything and increase the value in register "E3" by 1.
Does that help your issue? (Also try a value of 91 for the lulz).
Note that unrecognized values in this register will cause a failsafe TDP lock of 45W, overriding BIOS settings on HK processors. But in older EC versions, previous gen laptops values were still remembered...example on GT73VR 7RE/7RF, 90=230W, 91=330W, but on 6RE and 6RF, 10=230W and 11=330W. But you could enter 10 and 11 on 7RE and 7RF because it still had those values from older gen remembered as valid.

 

I'll give it a shot.

Thanks!

 

@Falkentyne where? Edit: NVM, figured it out.



Yeah tried 21,11,91 all didn't work.

 

Did you try 24?
Are you currently running on battery? Your register C6 should show C0 or C1. 40 means you are being throttled...I can see your battery is at 98% right?

 

As Falkentyne suggests, the only way to bypass power limits will be through RW Everything. I used to have to force that one back with the GT60 to put a new fan table, because we didn't have apps for it.

 

Yeah I was on battery when i took that screenshot. And yeah i tried 24, no dice.

For some reason opening EC in rweverything is making my laptop all weird. The track pad sometimes stops working for no reason and sometimes i get the critical battery warning and the laptop shuts down.

I'm gathering info on 8th gen and 9th gen GE75 laptops to see what their E3 value is btw. Hopefully I'll find something that works.

 

Wait, what video card do you have?
2080 max Q right?
If it's already a 2080, you may be at the max power allowance allowed, unless you can find a model that has a non Max-Q 2080.
Changing EC register E3 would only work for 1060, 2060 and 2070 users as it would tell the EC that that user has a 2080 installed and increase power budget to that model's profile.

 

Yeah thats why I'm looking for the E3 values for 20 series laptops. Probably just the GE75 2080 and GT76 2080 will have the values I need.

 

That, or another shunt mod..

 

IF it even uses a shunt to measure the power input...

I tried every value from 20 to 30, no luck.

Maybe msi have moved their power limit somewhere else?

 

If it was from the reported current by the CPU and GPU, your GPU is reporting a lot less now, so it might be using shunts to measure current consumption, maybe on next teardown start by following the DC-IN path and see if anything glaring shows up.

 

If power is being limited to a specific amount, there needs to be some sort of power reading obtained, and there should be an EC registry where it is calculated. You will probably find a bunch of EC registries that handle it, because data is probably in sort of counts, and then gets multiplied to match the max power draw. Maybe if you find one of those multipliers you can do something about it.

 

EC RAM registers C8 and C9 were the system power registers coming from the mosfets, on GT73VR and GT75VR, increasing with C9 first, then when C9 reaches "FF", C8 increases by "01" and C9 resets back to 00 and goes up again to FF, etc. But you have a "01" in C9, so looks like it's somewhere else now because that "01" doesnt seem to mean anything.

 

I'll take another screenshot when I'm plugged in.
Edit: done


Edit:
C9 is constantly changing, i think i may have figured how to increase the power limit as when C9 changes to certain values
A.)the battery reports itself as 25% charge
B.)the laptop runs on battery mode
C.)the laptop runs on AC


Also, the GE75 with 2070 has 22 in E3, the one with 2080 has 21 in E3 and the one with a 1070 has 08 in E3

 

@Falkentyne I did some reading on your posts regarding the E3 tweak.

My laptop doesn't throttle the cpu when the total system power limit is hit, the laptop just switches from AC to battery for a second then back to AC and the cycle repeats.

 

Unrelated to the current situation but it seems my terrible soldering skills somewhat helped. Just ran 3dmark Firestrike and my GPU score raised from 20491 to 24019

Saw my clocks throughout the test as 1800mhz for most of it. My temps did creep up though.

seanwee do you use Dragon Center?

 

Nice, check hwinfo64 for the gpu power draw. That should tell you if your shunt mod worked.

And yes, i do use dragon center.

@Falkentyne are C8 and C9 lockable? They keep changing and i dont know how to lock them to a value i set.

Also when rweverything is running my laptop will suddenly shut down for no reason.

 

No, C8 and C9 are read only. The battery/AC status register can be changed.

What happens if you remove (or disconnect the cable) the battery from the inside (AFTER POWERING OFF), then change EC RAM register 31 to "09" (on AC power), EC ram register 42 to "64" (Battery=100%), and EC RAM register E3 to 21?

Does the laptop shut off if you exceed total system power now? I'm curious.

 

Yeah I'll try that.

@Falkentyne
Yup it just shuts down abruptly. Changing 31 to 09 doesn't stick though, it changes itself to 0B

 

09 to 0B is normal. That happens on my GT73VR also. It's an error state--you can usually see the charge light come on when this happens despite the battery being completely disconnected! You're tricking the EC into thinking the battery is connected when it's not connected--this prevents NOS from kicking in and limiting you. Anyway, if you ever wind up without a battery, you can use this trick to not throttle at 60%. Unfortunately your laptop for some reason switches to battery when the older GT laptops just keep running on AC until the AC adapter actually trips (the AC Power light goes off), so the older laptops don't have this issue. There's probably nothing you can do about this. I had to find out by accident how this works on my GT73VR by just plugging in random values and "hoping something didn't explode."

 

That's unfortunate

My last chance at this would be if svet can cook something up. Fingers crossed

Edit: can you post some GT laptop ECs? Maybe I can find the key that makes the laptop keep using AC power instead of switching to battery.

 

Won't matter because the GT laptop doesn't switch to battery when it runs out of power allowance. It throttles the CPU via PECI instead. What's happening in your system isn't in any of ours.
Also the laptops that have an SLI EC (GT73VR, GT75VR) don't seem to have a throttle point past 330W (or at least if they do, no one has reached it) since it has to allow 2x330W for an SLI configuration.

But here.
GT73VR 7RF.

 

Btw, does anyone know a company accepts custom laptop heatsink orders?

 

Maybe cicichen on ebay, contact him.

 

I've been looking at laptop heatsinks and wondered why nobody ever made something like this.



Vapour chamber with fins across the entire top surface and exhausts along the entire back of the laptop and two other smaller heatpipe heatsinks for cooling the vrms. The entire point of using vapour chambers is so that heat can be evenly spread across a large area yet no one has ever exploited it.

Wouldn't a design like this greatly increase cooling capability?

 

@ryzeki how's your shunt mod doing?

 

After the single couple runs of firestrike and getting higher scores, I haven't tested much yet. I've been a bit busy with my family, and I lent my computer to my son to attend school remotely.

It doesn't help that my HP SSD is dying and I can't access all my games, so I only have access to a couple of benches and little to no drive space left. I'll try some more testing at night, but let me tell you I feel positive about the mod- what made me realize it "worked" to a good extent, was how stable clocks were, and the lack of power limit in riva tuner etc.

 

That's good to hear. How are temps?

 

I used to have around 80 celcius, and during testing I got to 85 or so. It doesn't help we have 33 C (92 F) indoors temps right now hahaha. My CPU is toasty as well but that one didn't change much, between 80 and 90 C. It's possible that I did a worse repaste this last time, so if temps creep over 90, I might have a go at repasting.

The good part was no throttling.

 

Just realised i already have the highest overall timespy score for i7-9750h + 2080 Max-q laptops. ternauwies still has a slightly higher gpu score though.

The guy in 1-4 is using a 2080TI eGPU

 

I noticed today several stuttering while running timespy and firestrike- something I didn't have when I first attempted after the mod.

It seems I am hitting temperature limits hard, I get around 85-86 celsius and my clocks drop hard to 300mhz or so for a second, then it gets back to normal. I put riva tuner to show me limits, clocks and temps and it shows every so often the temperature limit, and very very seldom a power limit though I don't know why- I did notice in HWinfo64 that there was a fuse limit?

HWinfo64 read my power use at around 13W for the GPU.

I think I need to do a way better paste job because these temps are getting out of control? I couldn't get anywhere my original scores with current insane temps.

 

You can lock clocks in msi afterburner but for max performance liquid metal / lapped heatsink + carbonaut is required.

I'm running 77°C in unigene heaven at max fans.

 

I might try LM and limiting my clocks, but at this point it's becoming more obnoxious than expected hahaha. It would be far easier if we could manually put the power target.

Depending on how things go, I think I will undo the shunt mod.

 

Give it time, you'll warm up to it

No pain no gain

 

Well I tried to undo the shunt mod and I did a terrible job, even slightly dislocating one of the resistances. But it seems the so terrible job was not as bad as to not... work slightly as before? I ended up somewhere in between- I used to have 20K graphics score, with the shunt mod I was 24K and now at 22K. plus my temps dropped to 75C for the GPU and no more stuttering for the time being.

 

Are the scores stock or overclocked?

 

All stock so far. Seems I did a terrible job undoing the mod, but it runs less hot, so that's a plus. BTW does HWinfo64 read the power as is? (like 90w consume reads as 90w?)

Anyways, I just gave my laptop to my wife, she uses it more (and so does my kid due to the whole quarantine) so I grabbed the ol' desktop and just finished setting it up. After this quarantine is over, maybe I am officially done with laptops? who knows!