The Notebook Review forums were hosted by TechTarget, who shut down them down on January 31, 2022. This static read-only archive was pulled by NBR forum users between January 20 and January 31, 2022, in an effort to make sure that the valuable technical information that had been posted on the forums is preserved. For current discussions, many NBR forum users moved over to NotebookTalk.net after the shutdown.
Hi Guys, has anyone tried pairing samsung 8gb ddr4 2400mhz built-in ram of this device with kingston valueram 8gb ddr4 2400mhz? Voltage is the same so as CAS latency. Is this the only thing to consider? Do I need to change things in bios like enable dual channel or if I insert the kingston ramstick if will automatically emable
Dual channel mode for GE63VR 7RE? Thanks in advance.
It will auto go to Dual Channel...as for the samsung memory, rule of thumb its always best to try and match the same memory (easy to do on Amazon with the part # from your current stick) but it "should" work if everything else matches up. Memory is fickle sometimes though and hard to say 100% one way or the other. You essentially have to just try it and cross your fingers when mixing two different manufacturers memory. Is there a reason why you don't just match it with the same Kingston brand?
The built-in memory is samsung 8gb ddr4 2400mhz CL17 1.2V. The problem is, I cannot find it anywhere here in Malaysia. Only available are Kingston brand.
Oh sorry I had it flip flopped! I thought it came with Kingston (like mine did) and you wanted to use a extra purchased Samsung stick. My bad! If Samsung is not an option...Crucial sticks are usually known to be pretty good at "handshaking" with other brand memory modules as well if you match the exact same voltage, latency, etc etc. Any chance of those in Malaysia?
But once again, since it is different manufacturers there is no way to say 100% if you computer or memory that came with the computer is going to "play nice together" until you really try it. So you might have to just buy the kingston, throw it in, and cross your fingers. So just make sure you can return/exchange easily anything you do get just in case....
I purchased 500gb ssd from amazon and will arrive by Friday. Question is, is the installation just a plug and play like the RAM? Or do I need to do clean install of OS? My OS is inatalled in the built-in SSD.
Use msi burn recovery to create a bootable usb drive that reinstalls everything from the factory before you put the new drive in - then boot the laptop with the usb drive in and follow onscreen msi burn recovery to reinstall.
If it's additional drive then you can use it as a data storage, but if you want to make it a primary drive then you have to use USB flash drive method to restore the OS.
Thanks. As mentioned above. It's only an additional storage. (especially for my MMO and RPgames). Final fantasy XV requires more than 100GB storage and it loads quite slow in the 7200rpm HDD. The witcher 3 also has lots of loading times.
EDIT: I can add 2 M2 Sata SSD, right? I will replace the built-in NVME from toshiba with a samsung one. Will it work? I will use 2x samsung 860 evo sata m.2 for raid 0 set up.
Thanks. I really thought it can support dual nvme as it was advertist with super raider 4 setup per msi box. Good thing I was able to cancel my order for the nvme and replace it with 2 m.2.
Sorry, I just double checked, it actually does support M.2 NVMe, so you can use 970 Pro too. But the thing is you have dual M.2 slots plus 1 SATA HDD slot.
Can you check in the BIOS setup and tell us what version of BIOS and EC it has?
Just picked up the GE63 RGB 8RF from Microcenter. One thing interesting to note is that the specs on the site show 1 16GB stick of 2400, but using CPUZ shows it as 2 8GB sticks at 2666.
Hi. I just installed 2 Samsung Evo 860 today. I am planning to set it up as raid 0 drive. However, there is no raid option in bios. How to I emable it? I already have the latest bios from MSI site.
tldr: I don't know, but you definitely can. There are many guides online. However it is pointless to Raid 0 SSDs. Especially in this case because you have an NVMe PCIe 3.0x4 interface which has ~3x the transfer speed capacity than two SATA III drives in Raid 0.
There's no point in running SSD in Raid 0 for typical applications. Evo 860 (nearly) maxes theoretical transfer speed of SATA III interface to begin with. If you're trying to get greater than ~600MB/s transfer speeds (SATA III), might as well just get a regular NVMe drive, like the Samsung 970 Pro/Evo. A single NVMe PCIe 3.0x4 has max theoretical transfer speeds of 3,940 MB/s vs. 1,200 MB/s (SATA III x 2 in Raid 0). Not to mention you run the
risk of losing all your data. I don't even think Raid 0 is even used by enthusiasts because of how simple it is to lose everything.
A single PCIe 3.0 lane is 985 MB/s, and your NVMe interface is 4 lanes, so no matter what you do, Raid or no Raid, your max SSD speed will come from a single NVMe drive using the NVMe PCIe 3.0x4 interface. I'm fairly certain the GE63/73VR laptops that you and I have have (2) M.2 interfaces: one of them is NVMe PCIe 3.0x4, the other either 3.0x2 or SATA III. Mine are both NVMe supported but the second only has 2 PCIe lanes so my max speed will come from just a single fast drive.
Thanks for taking time to respond. I however managed to setup raid via IRST option in bios. Then I created raid 0. Also, I already purchased the 2 samsung 860 evo ssds. I will try the raid0 experience first if its really good. So far, my games load very fast. Though I don't have a reference to compare to since my games were installed in HDD prior to my raid setup and its not good to compare the 2 setups.
Is it possible to fully stop thermal throttiling a GE63 with a 8750H (+1070) with undervolt+repaste?
What temperatures should I expect with UV+repaste?
The short answer is yes. I first repasted with IC Diamond and it dropped temps pretty well - but after 1+ hours of gaming on ultra it temps would creep back up to an average of around 80C and the clocks would still bounce around a bit (not nearly to the degree of stock paste).
I then repasted with Conductonaut (liquid metal) and temps now don't surpass an average of 72ish and the cpu and gpu clocks are locked in and don't bounce around at all after 2+ hours od intense gaming.
Both of these were with a -140mv undervolt.
LM is the way to go if you have the know how to do it or are willing to pay to have it done.
Temps are in check but I'm still dealing with some stuttering and no idea what's causing it. That part is frustrating!
I appreciate the reply, 80s seems good, since my 7700HQ gets up to ~87c with repaste + undervolt (thought I game at 144hz). But doesn't thermal throttles (unless its a CPU stress test).
I never used liquid metal, and would like to avoid using it (atm).
Your stuttering might be caused by power throttle.
I have this laptop, the one with the 7700hq and a 1070. Am I the only one who has problems with the "body" of this laptop?
I mean, my laptop is less than a year old, and I only disassembled it one time for cleaning and upgrading hdd about 6 months ago. From time to time I got fragments of red plastic "falling" from the laptop, when I try to open the screen I see how the little tabs of red plastic cant hold the body anymore. Because of that, I am afraid that, if I disassemble the laptop once more, I won't be able to asemble it back.
I have treated the laptop well, 0 hits taken, and it was disassembled with extreme caution. It is a disapointment that a laptop this expensive is made of low quality plastic... Anyone has the same problem?
I've disassembled several times, I think they are the plastic clips that hold the bottom panel. I vaguely recall having some pieces of plastic fall out of mine, but my panel is still very secure. It's possible to find a replacement bottom case, but a quick search shows only over-priced ones on eBay. TBH, if you've done a good repaste, have all the RAM you need, and put in sufficient storage, have no problems with your WiFi card, I see no reason to open up your laptop for years even. Thus maybe you can hot glue it closed.
Hot glue might be secure enough to hold the case in place, but weak enough to break apart later on.
I have this one as well and I opened mine up twice....and had one plastic tab break off too despite handling with kids gloves. So no surprise but the rest snapped back together fine and is solid. But i too question the reliability of the seemingly weak snap tabs. The one in particular was very hard to "unsnap" for some reason and it broke despite doing everything i could to avoid.
When I took mine apart one time to install drives and repaste cpu and gpu I broke 2 clips - just like the guy above I was very careful and slow in the process and still broke 2.... for the most part it snapped back together solid except the headphone jack had a tiny piece of plastic "curl up" in the circular cutout for the jack as it was sliding back back on and it doesn't seat 100% correctly together on that side as a result.... very annoying but I'm afraid if I tried to take the bottom off again to get it to seat correctly I'll end up doing more damage than good in breaking more clips off....
I like the hardware for the price, but the build quality with MSI is lackluster compared to most other brands in my opinion. I also can't beleive they dont have removable drive covers considering their weak clip system on the bottom cover....
So I got my hands on a MSI GE63 8RF (i7 8750h + 1070). Updated BIOS and EC. Loaded optimal settings in BIOS. Checked a bit the 120hz display, the rgb configuration,etc on the default windows installation. Did a clean Windows 10 LTSC 2019 install. Installed updated drivers, and proceeded to bench.
It throttles when using CPU intensive tasks, the CPU wont use more than 17w, despite temperatures barely reaching 60º.
Short benchmark like Cinebench gives good results: ~1100 and +1250 with undervolt.
In Prime96, OCCT, the CPU frequency fastly drops to around 2,9Ghz. Same in Overwatch, it runs at ~90fps with everything at low due to the frequency. My 7700HQ +1050ti keeps +130fps (thought it has dual channel which is a big deal for the game)
What could it be? Its does that without and with throttlestop, and its not a temperature problem.
Change CPU Current Limit in the Bios to a value of '1000' or '800'.
It may be called ICCMAX. On the Titans, it's in the "OC" section and called "CPU Current Limit" or "VR Current Limit".
If it's not there, unlock the bios, go to CPU VR settings, Core I/A Domain and change it there.
Power & Performance > CPU Power control > CPU VR Settings > Core/IA VR Settings > CR Current Limit Default is 512 ,set it to 800 but still the same behaviour.
I will try more tomorrow, I just reinstalled Win 10 Pro, installed Dragon Center to check different profiles, uninstalled it, did the same with Intel XTU, tried your method to make it report less W, and still the same problems.
I dont get why With Cinebench (thought really short test) and TS 1024MB test, it goes for over 2 minutes at 3,9 GHz on all 6 cores, with 40 and something W, yet the moment I run OCCT or Prime95, the frequency go down to 2,9Ghz and the W its betwwen 15-20. Same with the 2 games I tested: Overwatch and Quake Champions, I actually get less fps than on my 7700HQ. The 7700HQ actually runs at 3,4Ghz the whole time. They're set at lowest settings so they're CPU bound, I guess if I tried any GPU bound game I would get a lot more fps, as I did with Uningine benchmark, but I actually want to play those 2 at 144fps...
I just dont get why it uses 45W sometimes and sometimes doesnt get past 20W (max temperature was 74º on the TS 1024MB test at 3,9Ghz). Is my unit faulty or is it how the 8750H actually works?
Problems? See this thread at archive.org.
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