IC Graphite Thermal Pad Available for Test and Review

nope, even though I did a quick job, im not that careless lol.. ive worked with conductive paste and with computers for a very long time so i know what im doing

I put the pad on there and the heatsink and kept pressure on it then mounted it evenly. I hand tightened the screws till there was no more turn. I guess I can see it when people say there wouldnt be enough pressure but at least for me I'm lucky to have an decent cooler.

As far as temps goes its looking pretty nice, woke up this morning idling at a nice 34C on CPU, 55-60C playing games (only at 4GHz tho). Stress test it was capping around 75C (fans AUTO)

GPU also around the same 60ishC on load. (fans AUTO)

I would probably say this goes about 2-3C above higher quality paste, but as far as installation goes and longevity (not having to worry about it) then the pros out weigh the con. Unless that 2-3C was preventing you from going further with your overclock.

But as with everything YMMV, it is highly conductive so install at your own risk.

 

I Just want other people to be careful. Because when I tried installing the pad on a 290X, any tiny vibration of anything would make the pad move when trying to attach the PCB to the heatsink. I was in no danger since I have nail polish insulting everything. But a random person could easily kill his card.

 

I will try to do a test if I do get my hands on it. Currently in Asia, and the higher ambient temps make my unit more hot also. 4c core temps difference between the first 3 cores and the last core during gaming and I want to bring the 3 hotter cores to the same temp as the cooler core. I was hoping these pads would act a bit like a shim and thus create more pressure. But havent seen one for a decent price yet in Europe.

 

I hear ya. I had to go through intense work to bring my non AVX prime95 temps to 1C between all cores. The results are definitely worth it, but I had to fight the battle of the bulge, vs convex heatsinks and imbalance and sandpaper to accomplish anything.

There is always something very satisfying about taming your temps. Just like having a car you custom built and modified. Like..."your baby."

 

Satisfying indeed but imo also a necessity. Even though intel states up to 100c is safe with the current generation of CPU's Im not buying that. I never want to go over 85c. Which my laptop now does in Asia, 88c to be precise.

I did lap heatsinks in the past on my desktop but have zero experience with that on laptops. How did you work around raised edges on the heatsinks which come on contact with the VRM's etc? Also hwo to make sure the heatsink is not bulging outwards or convex?

I truly hope these pads would give me more heatsink pressure. I hae a very strange temperature pattern.

For example core 1 - 84c, core 2 - 85c, core 3 - 83c and core 4 - 81c.

Not the usual core 0 and 2 that are way hotter than the rest.

It doesn thelp I am such a perfectionist. Even though deep in my mind i know a laptop doesnt last as long as a desktop. I want to make it like it can last forever.

 

I would definitely like to try this. I have an Alienware 17R4 with thermal issues. I was going to try liquid metal but with the issue of it possibly leaking out this seems safer. Yes i know it is still electrically conductive but seems a bit safer than liquid.

 

Read my foam dam guide for helping the LM leaking out issue here.
Also, Mr Fox had success with this while another user did not (although that other user was using an existing shim), but it MAY be possible to use these IC pads as thermal shims, by putting LM on the CPU as normal, rubbing LM (read my guide) vigorously over the copper heatsink surface above the CPU contact area, then putting this pad between the CPU and heatsink, to increase heatsink pressure. This needs to be tested. I would test it myself but my back won't allow it right now. If I get well enough, I may remove my r9 290x and try it there.

 

Tested the "shim" between LM on the r9 290x. temps worse by 2C. Not a horrible result, considering the absolutely atrocious pressure with the X-bracket and the reference heatsink (the pressure is so atrocious it literally oxidizes all of the LM, but still cools okay if you apply enough to NOT have it all absorbed off the CPU).

The shim method might work on high pressure heatsinks if used between CPU (IHS or bare die if you're brave)->LM pad->IC->LM spread on HS->mount.

 

can someone who has this product verify if it's the same as these links products or not? (from the look,its the same but the price is lower and quantity is bigger)

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?&id=520850350530
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?&id=43889169792
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?&id=520850350530

thanks

 

Having read 41 pages of this thread it appears the Panasonic PGS soft pads, those with the "ZL" in the code, EYGS product code WITH "ZL", like for example EYG-S0612ZLWF, are just as good or better as the best thermal pastes, approaching LM, and with none of the issues of leaking all over the place? And as cheap as chips?

Am I reading this right?

I have an AW17 R5 arriving soon (it is taking unbelievable time to arrive since ordering) and would be very much interested in your views!

 

These are good lists of all the EYG-SxxxxZLnn Panasonic products at the UK Digikey and UK Farnell:

https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/...ntity=0&ColumnSort=1000011&page=1&pageSize=25

http://uk.farnell.com/w/search/prl/results?st=eygs&pageSize=50&sort=P_PRICE&thickness=200um

 

I wonder can the material, being spongy in nature, be stacked? I was thinking with the imprecise machining used for the Dell Alienware heatsinks and Clevos that require extra pressure to overcome the stiffness of the heatsink/heatpipes assembly and allow for better contact (paper clip methods etc), I was wondering would the spongy material make much better contact and fill uneven gaps much better than liquid pastes and ignore gravity as a bonus?

 

Yes and sorry for the necro thread. I've more or less finally configured and fixed an AW17r4 I was given as yet another exchange and I'm seeing high 70s low 80s on load during the initial burn in and dropping.

It's thicker material than you think it is and Panasonic explicitly says not to stack.​

 

I would be very interested to hear your story about the AW exchange(s) you have had.

I will order some Panasonic thermal pads this evening!

 

Bought one 13r3 on the Outlet, left speaker was dead several keys on keyboard were dead sent it back. Bought a new 13r3, lasted about 8 months and it kicked the bucket.

- First tech stunk of weed had no idea how to disassemble the unit and used a flathead screwdriver to pry apart the laptop without removing the screws trashing the chassis. Went to depo and they couldn't fix it and an exchange was ordered.

-First replacement had a screen that was so bent inward that the lid wouldn't close. Again new tech, this tech received a defective panel where the wireless ground leads were damaged beyond repair. In addition he broke the wireless adapter when trying to put the old panel back on. Plus there was a piece of chewing gum with wrapper attached written in Kanjii that was used to secure the battery rather than tape. Exchange was issued and BBB was contacted.

-Second replacement a 15r3 was sent, requested a non-gsync unit. They sent a gsync unit. Asked for a motherboard change to a non-gsync and was told no. Exchange was issued.

-Third replacement was a 17r4. Display had terrible light bleed, and was overheating, sent to depot to replace the heatsink, display and top lid. New panel (assuming they changed it) was equally bad, couldn't tell if they changed the panel out or not. Complained again and I was sent a new bezel and heatsink. Pulled the bezel off and the display was definitely bad and not pressure on the panel. At this point I was told to pound sand and that they would neither issue another replacement or extend the warranty after almost 3 months worth of repairs. Right now I'm waiting on the BBB to go to arbitration or small claims court because ffs this was ridiculous.

 

but your laptop should run 420 blazeit fast now

 

Yea overall it's been pretty pathetic, I've more or less fixed this one unit and it is as loaded as it comes but I've spent hours trying to fix it and the other 3.
So far for this one I've had to:
#1 Redo the bezel twice, and buy automotive trim tape to keep the display from creeking/crinkling from the ****ty adhesive they use.
#2 Repaste with PGS
#3 Spent hours trying to fix the Tobii camera
#4 Reset and reinstalled more times than I can count.
#5 Oh and replace just about every screw in the chassis because all of them had been stripped.

I almost don't want to know this unit's service history, the previous 13r3 I got had been repaired 6 separate times before it was sent to me so there's that....

 

So it would appear the morale is "do not buy from Dell Outlet" ... Even though their warranty and customer service is great.

 

These pads are complete garbage when used on high wattage CPU's. They may work okay when used between an IHS and heatsink, if the heatsink has high thermal transfer capabilities already (e.g. as a shim), when used on a delidded and LM'd CPU (LM between CPU and IHS), but attempting to use this in place of Liquid metal itself is completely atrocious and should NOT be attempted by anyone except for the "Why did I waste my life trying this?" factor. The base thermal characteristics are no better, and often worse than a decent high end paste (like Gel Maker Nano, Phobya Nanogrease Extreme or Kryonaut). Do NOT under ANY circumstances, attempt to use this as a makeshift copper shim replacement (for increased heatsink pressure) on a BGA CPU or GPU, with liquid metal on the CPU and CPU heatsink, as a "LM PGS sandwich!". Your results will be *HORRENDEOUS*! Your core temps (on a balanced heatsink) will be surprisingly tight, but the heat transfer itself will simply be horrible. Probably no better than Kryonaut. You will have to do your own testing, but expect your shim to fall on its face. Either use the pad itself, or use LM. don't use both. Or use regular traditional paste.

You may possibly have results similar to Kryonaut, without the problem of Kryonaut pumping out, if you use this as a LM sandwich, and the increasead pressure caused by the shim will keep more pressure on the heatsink (when part of the LM gets absorbed), and will also keep the heatsink from absorbing the LM already on the CPU, due to the PGS pad, but using LM+PGS to get Kryonaut type results isn't why anyone uses LM to begin with. Buy some Coolermaster Gel Maker Nano instead and do things the right way.

I want the 30 minutes of my life back after trying this on a 7820HK with liquid metal on both sides, as a shim. Anyone want to donate a free 30 minutes for the time I wasted? :/

 

I wouldn't say PGS is garbage, I've applied it on a 7820HK with a 1080 and I'm showing upper 70s on CPU load which isn't half bad at all.

 

At 4.7 ghz, the temps were completely skyrocketing with the PGS "sandwich" with LM. Completely unusable. Temps reached 85C in 10 seconds. That is not usable. With plain LM, the temps were fully under control (max mid 80's at maximum load). This is with a true vcore of 1.276v.

 

How does "maximum load", "4.7GHz", "1.276V" translate into power dissipated as heat? It would be better to use Watts when we talk about thermal performance.

For example during some gaming, my CPU was at 20%, nothing to write home about, but at the same time, and over a long time, it was pulling 45 Watts of power! Because some CPU instructions draw more power per amount of time, eg FPU instructions, so it all depends on what you are asking it to do at the time, and the best way to describe this is, and the only thing we care about, is the resulting watts, not some reported frequency or voltage.

I attach a photo so you can see, over a long time, CPU at 20% power at 45W

 

Holy...

101ºC :/

90ºC at 44Watts.

That is not an happy CPU.

 

And PCH chips only 92/94C. I wonder what temp the ssd reach.

 

oi! u guys having a BBQ here and no one invited me?

Sent from my Xiaomi Mi Max 2 (Oxygen) using Tapatalk

 

Hey guys.
I wanna try IC Graphite pads. Do I cut exactly size of a chip, or little bit more is ok?
They have good thermal conductivity in x-y axes, would it make better if pad will be larger or it won't be contacting heat-sink there anyway because of lack of pressure?

 

The more pressure the heatsink does the better, thats the hard part about laptops. With desktop coolers they work just fine.

I've been using mine for a good few months now, havent had any problems. I did exact size but you have to align it perfectly and make sure it doesnt move. Its also conductive so I would try to keep it away from vrm/resistors. Some have mentioned tape or nail polish glue and putting it on jic. Thats the risk I took and just aligned it and carefully mounted.

 

Update on this, I've installed on my 8970M in the M17x R2, and it does about 5-6 deg C better job cooling vs mastergel maker. Instead of stabilizing around 80 degC, it now stabilizes around 75 degC. I tightened the screws down quite a bit, to the point where I feared I may have cracked the die, but it did a good job improving temperatures! Plus, it's reusable! My slave card is running thermal compound still, I will post a crossfire bench soon to compare the difference.

 

CM Maker Gel works better if you don't bench it after repaste. Use it like normal for a week and then test. The temps should be the same for several years. I'm using the same paste for nearly 2 years and thermal performance is like Day 1.

 

Has Maker Mano even been out for 2 years?
When I tested the IC pad on my r9 290X, it was 5C *worse* than Mastergel Maker.

 

https://www.eteknix.com/cooler-master-mastergel-maker-nano-review/ (Posted 3 years ago)

 

Coolermaster's inconsistent packing does not help.
On the "Box" versions, it just says "Mastergel Maker."
On the tube, and on the "plastic" versions, it says Mastergel Maker Nano.

Inconsistent packaging. Just like inconsistent warped tripod heatsinks.....

 

I expect the pictures is posted same time as the Review article. Aka 3 years ago.

 

But look at the box, brother Papusan.

http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/thermal-compound/mastergel-maker/

no blue "Nano" anywhere.



Because some people just want to watch the world burn. @Papusan

 

They renamed it to MakerGel and killed off bad paste called MakerGel.
MakerGel nano = CM MakerGel

 

Huh?

You just completely confused me.

 

There was another MakerGel paste w/o Nano branding.

 

See... Use of same pict.

 

I essentially traded my M15x today + 50$ for a 2017 RBP w/ 7700HQ + GTX 1060. Machine runs in the high 60s-low 70s range on stock thermal paste, undervolted. I will be trying IC graphite pads in here as well as soon as I find out the proper torx screw size.

 

I thought you hated RB since most of them failed whilst using, right?

 

I've never owned an RB, I hated the absolutely ridiculous heatsink design they had in the past where they just ran pipes over the dies without even a flat copper surface lol, but they've remedied that from 2017+ it seems. Its a good test bench anyway, and when compared to a 9 year old machine with a 4 year old graphics card, this was certainly a step up, who's kidding who here? CPU performance is still not as good as my 2920XM but it also isn't nearly as thirsty for power.

Anyway, since I have some of these graphite pads leftover, and I can't recall seeing this product tested in a RB/RBP, I thought I might as well try it before I move on to liquid metal

 

Update: I applied the graphite pads to the CPU and GPU (7700HQ + GTX 1060), there was only negligible improvement in temperature (1-2 degrees Celsius), so my conclusion is the same as before: not enough pressure being applied by the heatsink to the graphite substrate. 7700HQ tops out around 65 degrees, gtx 1060 around 75. Tearing this thing down was a pain, hated having to do it once already. I will certainly be ordering more liquid metal and proper thermal pads (gelid) to see what difference that would make.

Sidenote: Whoever was head of thermal management in the Razer Blade division needs to be fired, pronto. They half assed the cooling in this computer to the point of danger. PCH has no cooling, memory modules for the VRAM are only half cooled....what a disaster. At least I have flat surfaces on the heatsink contact surface this time around, I know there are blades that exist only with heat pipes passing over the dies.

 

Out of curiosity, did you use the pad "dry" or did you put some TIM on both sides of the pad to help with the low pressure sink?

If dry, I thought there were positive reports when a TIM is used on both sides of the pad.

 

I actually just checked the pad, pressure is not a problem, I used a sheet larger than the die to see if it would leave an imprint, and it sure did, the sheet is nicely pressed in where the CPU would normally be. I'm not sure if paste would help this, I haven't seen any evidence here to prove so

 

not evidence, but some chatter...

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-test-and-review.815439/page-35#post-10725340

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-test-and-review.815439/page-36#post-10726836

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-test-and-review.815439/page-39#post-10731611

 

I ended up giving up and applying some old CLU I had laying around, it's just leaps and bounds better. Who knows what the future holds though

 

So you applied LM or did you use some kind of paste? And you saw worthwhile temp decreasing? I'm thinking up upgrading my Alienware laptop and may try one of those graphite pads if I can find it equal/better than kryonaut. Most pages I found seem to have compared the IC graphite to IC Diamond LM

 

You seem to be very confused. I had liquid ultra on before the pad, tried ic graphite, it sucked compared to liquid ultra, so I went back. Graphite pad is not better than phobya nanogrease extreme or kryonaut. IC diamond does not make liquid metal TIM, only IC Diamond paste and IC graphite pad.


My preference has been, and continues to be, liquid ultra.

 

for those who want to know why it's not recommended/under-performing on laptops, watch this video from" bob of all trade youtube channel"

 

By the gods after going through the entire thread my head is .But in conclusion (feel free to correct me) the soft pgs pad is **** even with good contact, works as a good sandwich between lm and better to go with with lm or phobya / gelid.

On the off note: what has been the better or best traditional paste after all this time + the best lm ? Why i ask is there is a lot of different opinions and would like to hear from experts.@ Mr. Fox, @Papusan

P.S in simple terms is the soft pgs pad good enough to replace traditional tim ?