*** OFFICIAL GIGABYTE AERO 15 OWNERS LOUNGE ***

try update the keyboard firmware to the latest version

 

It's Intel HD graphic which connects with TBT3 however it could support 4K@60Hz so theoretically said it should support 1440p@144Hz

 

Isn't 3.08 the last one?
What do you suggest me to do?

 

Moreover, I've noticed that there are some stickers on top of the screw that hold the bottom in place. So, can I hopen it without voiding the warranty?

 

In the United States, yes. You can't void a warranty with a sticker, even if it says "warranty void if removed"

Source: https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/pre...panies-it-illegal-condition-warranty-coverage

 

What about the European warranty?

 

you could go for our call center for more detail about our warranty policy~

 

I have the Killer Wireless N1535 adapter/Bluetooth 4.1.

I have yet to get any if my new blueooth devices to be detected by Windows.

Currently up to date with all Windows drivers as well as Killers App that makes sure everything is up to date and running properly.

My Pixel 2 XL detects all the Bluetooth devices.

I have restarted all Bluetooth services in Windows.

When I click add a new device...windows just keeps scanning but nothing ever shows up.

If I click send a file via Bluetooth icon in app tray...it brings up a list of devices but no devices are ever listed.

Has anyone had this headache and found a fix?

Really wish I could use my wireless headphones with this $2800 laptop.

 

I Have a question regarding ram. My laptop currently has 1x16GB Kingston - part number: CBD24D4S7D8MB-16.

Will this ram work: Kingston value ram KVR24S17D8/16 It is listed on the Kingston website as the supported ram for the Aero 15 v7

https://www.kingston.com/us/memory/search?DeviceType=&Mfr=GIG&Line=AERO Laptop&Model=96493

I just want to be 100% sure before I purchase in-case the supplier doesn't take it back

This is the official support list for the aero 15 v7


My current ram

 

I got the Killer 1550 upgrade from HID. Have a Bluetooth mouse I've had since day 1 with no problems. Not sure what to recommend.

 

have you tried updating the driver? my personal suggestion is that go find the driver of 1535 which is released by other vendor and try

 

yes after internal check the KVR24S17D8/16 is supported on AERO 15 v7 & v8

 

With Volta gpu coming, should I wait for Volta or just buy the v8?

 

my personal suggestion is buy the v8 first

 

Ok, still collecting budget tho. I do hope next revision have better keyboard and precision mouse (or is there anyway to make precision touchpad permanent even after windows update?)

 

I went with the v8 now for a few reasons. The most important thing is that my main laptop is starting to fall apart. I have a big robotics competition in the fall, and I know if I keep that machine, it will wait to fall apart until competition where its absolutely critical that I have it. So, if your computer is on the brink of disaster, its still gonna be worth getting the v8.

But, lets assume you have a good machine, maybe a desktop or something, and you want to get a new laptop. Current rumors are pretty strong, suggesting the GTX 11 series to be announced Aug 30. These are only the desktop GPUs, and not even the 3rd-party modified ones, more like the 1180 founders edition. People only buy those to strip the heatsink, throw on a water cooling block and OC as much as possible. In Sep/Oct you will get those 3rd party boards with all the fans and silly RGB lights. Thats also around the time you will get the 1170 and 1160, still only desktop cards. It won't be until late nov/dec where you will see any laptops, save for maybe clevo, running the 11-series cards. But even then, the first ones out will be the Clevos, MSI, maybe Alienware, and Lenovo (confirmed themselves). Odds are these computers will be 1 of 2 options, the super thick desktop replacement machines running the 1180 because they can. The second option is some entry to mid level 1160 machines, because they are also fairly thick. Point is, you probably aren't going to see an Aero v9 until early next year. If you do manage to get one by the end of the year, its not going to have a radical redesign. In fact, I would dare say you will see the Aorus running an 1180 before you get an Aero running an 1170.

All of that speculation of course, but your realistic timeline is Dec-Feb before you see an Aero v9. So do you want to wait that long? Can you wait that long? Does it matter? I generally don't play ubisoft games, and if I do, its not for very long. I don't need 144fps in assassins creed, I need 144fps in Overwatch. Like many people in this thread, I made the realization that I really don't need the 11-series since I've basically given up on the big AAA titles: battlefield/battlefront/assassins creed/farcry. So its up to you, do you have to have the most powerful machine you can find? Then the aero probably isn't even right for you, its got a really bad price/performance ratio because of the portability. You are looking at a 20% max improvement jumping from the 1070 to 1170, although you will probably see a higher jump because it will likely be a full 1170 and not max-q when it first releases.

Probably a much more convoluted answer than what you wanted, but if you start chasing the next big thing in tech, you will always be disappointed with your purchase. Lastly, don't bank on "all these problems will be fixed" with the next iteration. The v7 had all the same issues as the v8, which surely will have all the same issues as the v9. However, I would definitely be hoping for some precision drivers since thats just a software patch. Don't expect the keyboard to get fixed. Rubber membrane keyboards are fairly new tech, only 20-30 years old or so, so its understandable how its so easy to screw it up. /sarcasm

 

Yep, the last paragraph is the one that really makes me hold onto. I wish they could just release a patch driver for precision touchpad and for the keyboard they should have patch it up on v8.

 

Hello.
I want to buy Aero 15X v8 and i have some questions.
1) What seller are better (XOTIC PC/HIDevolution/GenTech PC/...)? I want to update Thermal Interface Materials for best temperatures.
2) Are Killer Wireless-AC N1550 or Intel Wireless-AC 9260 is better then Intel Wireless-AC 8265? If yes, what are better?
3) I want to buy Samsung 970 evo 2tb. Is there any sense to buy an SSD in seller? Or separately?
4) What are the better memory for laptop? I listen, that Samsung RAM is the better then that any "gaming" Corsair/G skill? etc. It is true?
5) Are any reviews for models with 4k? Is there any sense yo get 4k?

I really hope for your help, thank you!
p.s. sorry for my english

 

1) Don't know, never used any of them.

2) Both the Killer 1550 and the Intel 9260 are the same hardware wise, with the Killer 1550 you can use their QoS software which is not worth it IMO.
The Intel 9260 is about $23-$27, Killer 1550 is $30, I would go for the Intel 9260.

3) Its a convenience option, you can let them install the OS to the new SSD and save yourself the time, honestly I would do it myself and save the money.

4) 2666MHz DDR4 SO-DIMMs with the tightest (lowest) timings, Kingston Impact are the best IMO, 2666MHz @ CL15, you can get the 16GB kit for about $200 or the 32GB kit for about $370, make sure you buy them from somewhere with a good return policy so that in case there are compatibility issues you can return them.

5) While it'll look good, it doesn't match the hardware, 4K is too much for the GPU to handle, plus you'll be stuck at 60Hz, and lose battery life. The GTX 1070 and the size of the laptop (15") is better suited for 1080p high refresh gaming.

 

For anyone here using LM, did that help get your thermals in check? I had HID do my LM, and I have an undervolt of 0.160. In destiny 2 everything was ok for an hour or two, 80-92C, then by the third hour I was locked at 90+C with constant thermal throttling. I am also running a cooling pad that pushes air up. I played Overwatch without the undervolt and it kept thermal throttling as well on ultra settings. My framerate would drop from capped 144 all the way down to 75 in some instances, but generally it would drop to 105-115. I know its a hot machine, but I thought people weren't constantly thermal throttling with an undervolt and LM.

 

Hello All,
Excuse my ignorance if there is some logical explanation for this but when I run my display at 144hz, I get about a 20 FPS drop in PUBG as opposed to running it at 60hz. I'm running Nvidia drivers 398.36 and am running PUBG at Maximum Power via the Nvidia Control Panel.
Is this normal? Thanks in advance.

 

Anyone with an Aero 15, can you check your display bit depth? Settings > Display > advanced display settings

https://i.imgur.com/w9B0HeQ.png

Mine is showing as 6-bit. Even after rolling back the intel display driver to 22.20.16.4708, which is the latest version shown in Smart Update.

I know the panel is bad, bit I had no idea it was this bad.

Edit: Nevermind. The panel is just that bad. HWiNFO64 shows a Chi Mei model CMN15D7, which is a 6-bit panel. Way to cheap out, Gigabyte. Thanks for the 262k colors.

 

mine shows 8-bit, i have the 144hz panel though. Couldn't tell if yours was locked at 60 or if you have the v7

 

I think that is pretty standard. See: https://www.lifewire.com/lcd-displays-and-bit-color-depth-833083

 

144 FPS in a thin laptop, why oh why does it get so hot...?

If after all the tuning of CPU / GPU undervolt, fan curves, external cooling, if your 144 FPS games are starting to overheat after a few hours, consider tuning the game eye candy lower or reduce the FPS limit to shave off just enough CPU / GPU load to stop overheating for the long haul...

Remember 60 FPS, it was just yesterday, that was tough enough to cool, I remember that too.

Now @ 144 FPS, rendering 2.4x as many frames per second as @ 60 FPS, in some games the CPU and GPU may need some relief. Especially with thin and light laptops, like the Aero 15.

It's likely that to reign in the temps, since you've already LM'd and undervolted, that you are going to have to give up some eye candy, or FPS, or both.

Maybe enable OSD and watch CPU core loads / temps and GPU temps in game, and see where it all goes wrong. Start pulling back on the things that don't matter visual wise, but load the CPU / GPU.

That might be enough. Or, if that's too visually unpleasant, try capping the FPS @ 140 FPS, 130 FPS, 120 FPS, or 100 FPS, and see what FPS brings temps under thermal throttling for long sessions. I use RTSS for frame limiting, it comes bundled with MSI Afterburner.

Seriously though, 144 FPS in a laptop?

Tested: Graphics settings and how they affect performance
JayzTwoCents
Published on Jul 3, 2018
Game settings can seem complex at times. Today we dig in to some of those settings and take a look at how they affect performance and graphics quality!

 

Yeah I know I can just tweak my graphics settings (also, for some reason overwatch keeps changing my render scale to 150%, not great). Just got this thing though so first step is push it as hard as I can. But there were a lot people claiming no throttling in benchmarks after LM/undervolt, so I just want to make sure my performance is standard and theres no other issue.

144hz in a laptop is great, and in my case its made even better without adding gsync to it. Even productivity works feels better on this screen, and I don't have to tank my battery with gsync.

There's another thread on here by Rage Set talking about performance. With some benchmarks, someone elses machine was able to get stable temps in Aida64, but my machine just keeps climbing. Seems that my gpu is running a bit hotter than it should. May try undervolting that, as I currently only have the cpu undervolted. And even then, I just picked 0.160 since I figured that would be close but not totally stable and its been fine, so I can probably go further.

 

@ g85222456 I see Smart Update showing FB07 firmware is available. Do you have those patch notes so we can see what's being changed/fixed.

 

Undervolting the GPU is a good idea, that should help a bit. -160mV is right there in the middle of what is reported, but you might get -10mV to -20mV more, but that won't help temps much more percentage wise.

The problem with thin laptops, besides the small fans and cooling area, is the low mass. So they heat up quickly and the heat has nowhere to go, except by expelling the heat via the little fans, and they an only do so much.

IDK if an external cooler will help, it might help expel heat through the case a bit, but you can help assist the fans by tilting the laptop with the rear a couple to few inches higher than the front, using convection current to push the heat up and out. For some laptops that helps 5c-10c under load.

Trimming the FPS and eye candy will help too, so after everything else has been tried experiment around with that. G-sync should help make up for the FPS drop, and the other side benefit might be better stable FPS rate.

Please come back and post your results and let us know how it works out

 

Also, has anyone updated to the latest audio drivers in SU? I did and the sound sounded like I was listening to everything underwater. Thankfully made an image and restored, but holy hell was that bad.

 

Don't know the specifics but I installed the bios update and it fixed my RAM incompatibility issue. Now have 2x16GB sticks running flawlessly for all my VM needs.

Seems Gigabyte actually came through with support this time, pleasantly surprised.



It is somewhat odd though that task manager claims 2 slots used out of 4 total. I suppose the other 2 have been removed in hardware but not in configuration?

 

Can you confirm that it is running at 2667 Mhz with something like HW Info. Task manager doesn't always report what its actually running at, just what its capable of.

 

What RAM are you using?

 

Task manager is actually reporting wrong data.
I'm running 2x16GB Kingston HyperX 2400MHz sticks

 

yeah we will make both things you said happened on next-gen product

 

well to be honest a certified precision touchpad included both certified touchpad driver & module...

 

Exactly the new BIOS fix some potential issue under dual channel also add new profile of the RAM

 

I've already have the last firmware. What do you suggest me to do? Ask for a replacement?

 

I would suggest getting your laptop replaced. I have already returned one that was fully spec'd out with a defective shift key.

Was not something i wanted to do.

With the replacement, so far so good, but gotta push it the next week to make sure nothing is wrong.

 

Hello there,
I bought an Aero 15 one year ago in Europe and it used to work like a charm, until exactly one week, ago, when it crashed (became totally unresponsive to either mouse or keyboard, with the cursor still able to move on the screen for one minute or so, before ending in a BSOD). All of this happened when i opened the web browser. Later at work, I was able to reboot the computer using my USB recovery key, and managed to check that all the drivers were up-to-date (they were) and do a check for errors (none was found). Since I didn't have any support to do a backup with me, i wanted to do it as soon as I got back home, but once there, I was unable to get past the UEFI screen, and it has been that way since, with no access to anything Windows and no way to restore any previous version or whatever. According to a local technician, it's as if the hard disk wasn't detected anymore, and we didn't open the computer so as not to void the warranty. I've yet to find an OS on an USB stick to try and get the computer booted in order to check if the hard drive appears so I can make a backup (one can dream).
Thing is, I'm only coming back to Europe in two months and I'm under the impression that I should wait until I'm back to get the whole warranty process started since there doesn't seem to be any Gigabyte tech here in Canada. Besides, data recovery isn't part of the warranty. Ofc there data I need for work here and it stucks to have them potentially lost (yeah I know I should have made a backup).
This is probably a virtual bottle in the great ocean of the internets, but if anyone has a suggestion (especially you g85222456, I'm open to suggestions).

 

Get an 8GB usb stick, and install Ubuntu on it. That will at least let you boot into a full operating system to check things out. (I think windows even has a live-disk option now, but I haven't tried it).

Download Ubuntu here, and to flash it to a drive I use Rufus.

 

Thank you.
I'll ask for a replacement. I'm only a little bit worried of getting a worse one.
Hope for the best

 

Do you know what is the new profiles?

Still doesnt work with GSkill 2400MHz 2x16GB. Work with one stick near CPU

 

Hey guys, I think my Aero 15x is severely underperforming. I can't even run Fortnite in ultra setting...I'm on Windows 1803.

 

As in not at all, or at a certain FPS?
haven't played in a while, but I could run it at ultra at around 100FPS.

 

What RAM modules are you using? I also updated the BIOS and F4-2400C16D-32GRS did not work at all. No post and infinite reboot loop on forced shutdown.

For those interested, read my observations post:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...roblems-solutions.816143/page-5#post-10773750

 

He is using Kingston HyperX 2400

 

I have the Aero 15W, the 2017 version with 7700 HQ and 60 Hz panel.

 

Got an official reply from gigabyte regarding the dim shift key:

"I am sorry we cannot just send out that key cap. I have inspected many Aero 15 keyboards and the right "Shift" key are all like that. If you feel this is an issue and you are willing to send it in, please visit our RMA website ( http://rma.gigabyte.us) to request a RMA repair for your notebook. If you do not have a login for our RMA website, you will need to create one first. When filling out the RMA request, make sure to choose “Other” and include the full serial number (long 30 characters SN). Notebook serial numbers may not pull up right and if gives you an out of warranty warning, click on Agree and Submit the RMA request anyways. Our RMA/CS department will need to verify the warranty anyways. You should get a reply within 24-48 business hours. I am sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused. Thank you."

So it's defective, they're all defective, they know they're defective, but they're still selling them for $2500 anyways. I can RMA if I want, and get another defective product.

Awesome.

 

Yes, because the LED is physically located to the left of the "Shift" text. It was a design oversight. Every Aero will have a dim right shift key.

 

Isn't that something that should be advertised, and the product recalled or discounted? They charge way too much money to be shipping out a known defective product...