AORUS Gaming Notebooks with Pascal, RGB LED keyboards - GTX 1060/1070/1080 13.9"/15.6"/17.3"

It's here it's here!!!!

Speaking of PWM. I cannot change my screen brightness at all. It is at 100 percent at all times.
added the issue to the Aorus forum here: http://forum.aorus.com/forum/gaming...7v6-3k-screen-brightness-stuck-at-100-percent

Also, the CPU is always running on boost. This is fairly annoying. The stock speeds on the 6820HK are supposed to be 2.7 with a 3.6 boost. looking at my power options, I am allowing minimum processor state of 5% on the balanced profile. But that does nothing. I can push it further with C&C but not down. I wonder if C&C is taking it and pushing it to 3.6 because that is the lowest available setting in C&C's OC module.

 

How's the screen in general? Interesting issues in regards to the clock speed. Sounds like it could be an easy fix though, hopefully..


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Perhaps uninstalling the C&C utility will solve it?

 

I'll preface my response with: I use reading glasses. My vision is 20/20 distance but need glasses to focus on close objects. Nevertheless, the glasses give me great vision. I work on PCs all day long as a developer.
I have no idea what this striping issue I read about is... I see nothing. I squint, I twist my glasses to try to magnify the screen. I looked at darks and lights. Nothing. Not seeing any striping.

Outside of that, it is a matte QHD, so it looks crisp.
I am returning a razer blade 14 (1060). Its screen is praised as one of the best. While the blade looks crisper, I suspect that has much more to do with the fact that it's packing the pixels into a much smaller screen.

Perhaps, through I'd really like to avoid that. It's one of the most comprehensive and useful manufacturer hardware tweak suites that I've ever played with. Sort of an all in one, OC, Fan, Power, Display controller.

I ran ArmA3 for about 30 min starting at 3.6 and pushing to 4. I had some gains in FPS. Started 58-65 ended up 68-75. But a significant change in temperature. While the 3.6 boost did not see temps above 81 C, the full 4.0 got up to 89 C.
This is a very CPU intensive game. Basically maxing out a single core while it is on.
I'll need to see if I can get one of these GPU intensive games on. I got GoW3 and BF1 keys by ordering from ExCaliberPC. So when I get those up and running I can test.

My early assessment is that a simpler paste like ICD will get a huge bump in performance without the risks associated with a HIGHLY conductive liquid metal.

I'll be away for the holidays, but here is to hoping you guys get your deliveries and put up some numbers.

 

I can do a Liquid Metal repaste for you if you want to be on the safe side.

Possible also that you can push 4.1, 4.2 or even higher.

 

Do you normally notice lines like this on cheaper monitors? I've never seen them myself on my monitors but the are usually good quality, but some times on cheaper monitors a colleagues even though it seems they don't see them.

 

I have 20/20 and noticed the weird striping. The Blade pro screen is better even with the glare. Neither holds a candle to my alienware 13 oled. But already sold it. Come one, 17 inch oled

 

Awesome. Sounds like good news to me. Hopefully my unit will be the same.



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You all got me very paranoid with cpu and gpu temps and I don't even own one of these laptops yet. You guys got me feeling like if I were to buy an Aorus x7 v6 I would need to absolutely do a repaste with specific brands like IC Diamond or whatever else was mentioned.


For a guide, if I were to say buy a MSI gs73vr or an Aorus x7 v6, how exactly should I go about repasting everything? Do I have to worry about redoing the thermal pads or can I just put them back on the way it was?


Is there an proper way to apply the IC Diamond or CLLU whatever it's called? I only ever dealt with applying MX4 on my desktop CPU or GPU

 

Buy from HID or Exotic and have them do it for 35 to 50 bucks. If that's an option for you.


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So on the Xotic website it says they only do IC Diamond for both gpu and cpu, while HID says they do CLLU for CPU and IC diamond? I mean is CLLU really that much better over IC diamond for the cpu?


And a big reason why I don't want to get the laptop from either of these websites is because at newegg there is a sale for the the x7 v6 @ $2300 USD compared to like 200-300 more on either Xotic or HIDevolution

 

It's subjective, if applied correctly CLLU can yield cooler temps. We shall see once A few of us get our units. Also the deal on newegg I see is only a hundred bucks less on the x7 v6 with the 512 drive. Chat up a sales rep @ HID and see what's available.


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For most people, gamers that wanna game and not pull apart their laptops, they don't need to re-paste laptops from MSI.

Would you get better temps from using an enthusiast paste instead of the long lasting goop MSI uses, yes you would, but you would then be on the re-paste every 6-12 months cycle for the life of the laptop.

For most the difference in temps won't affect them, the games will run the CPU's and GPU's will cool, and everything is fine.

For a small percentage of MSI owners you might have gotten a bad paste job on assembly, so test temps with hwinfo64 when you get it, run some benchmarks and watch temperatures.

If you don't thermal throttle - there is a line for that in the hwinfo64 monitor list - then you are good.

If you do thermal throttle, try undervolting - for skylake CPU's that's -100mv to -200mv, and see if the thermal throttling stops. Skylake CPU's get too much voltage applied by BIOS's by default - this is the source of most of the hot CPU's.

If you still are thermal throttling in benchmarks and games, then swap with the retailer for another unit, and test it for acceptance. Make sure you always test right away so you have the most time to test - usually 7-14 days - before the retailer return period expires.

The Alienware's always need re-pasting, same with Clevo's, maybe Asus this generation - although I think that's exaggerated.

The ultra-thin laptops are always gonna run hot - Aorus, Razer, EVGA, etc - or they will under perform for their hardware, like the GTX 1080 models performing like GTX 1070's.

Whatever you get please come back and find the right forum here and post your experiences so everyone can get a view of good and bad results for that model

 

Is this true for IC diamond? I thought ICD was a set-it-and-forget-it style of paste, where you can reasonably expect it to perform with minimal degradation for several years?

 

None of the enthusiast pastes last that long keeping the same temps. ICD is a good gap filler, but with gaps there is oxidation, so there goes the longevity.

Only the thick goop rubbery exterior pastes resist oxidation over long periods. K5 is one available after market, but it won't cool as well as the best enthusiast pastes.

Give ICD a try and please come back and let us know how long it worked for you

 

Wow hmscott, thank you so much for taking the time to reply to me.


Over the past month I have been really anxious about purchasing a laptop for my girlfriend (she refuses for me to build her a computer right now) and not sure which thin gaming laptop to get. Based on temperatures and noise between the MSI gs73vr and the Aorus x7 v6, which do you think is better out of the box when it comes from a retailer like newegg? I rather not go with an aftermarket thermal paste if what you say is true where they all need to be reapplied considering I'm not sure exactly how long I will be with my gf, but I'd like to know this $2-3k investment isn't going to be for nothing 3-4 years down the road. And I know my gf won't know to reapply thermal paste.

Basically, which laptop do you think is going to last longer in 3-4 years and would you or anyone else here know how good the Aorus x7 v6 1920x1080 screen is? I'm trying to avoid the 1440p resolution screen since I read that all of those models have a noticeable stripe issue between the pixels that make it very unflattering for a screen once you notice it.


I can't find any reviews on the screen quality for the 1080p resolution Aorus x7 v6 though, is it IPS? How good of an IPS is it? Does it have g-sync?

 

Thanks for the reply. So it's a safe bet that getting an ICD pasted laptop will require a repaste in 1 year or so due to temp degradation?

The one thing that worries me about ICD is the reports of it scratching the surface of both the heatsink and the dies themselves. Removing old ICD will have to be done very carefully.

--

This thread is full of experiences with the X5 and X7, but does anybody have an X3 and care to post about their experiences? Being that I'm in the market for a more compact laptop, and that the Blade is out of my price range, the X3 remains one of my few choices.

 

Coming from a thread thats discussing both liquid metal and regular compounds i would say, and this is just personal opinion yea, get the best regular compound readily available to you if you arent too sure about liquid metal just yet. The two that pop up on that thread are Gelid GC Extreme and Grizzly Kyronaut. A number of people have been experiencing whats known as pump out with IC Diamond, where the compound spills off the die and on to the substrate around it. Its possibly a YMMV issue so just putting it out there. In total agreement with @hmscott. IC Diamond and most paste that are targeted to the enthusiasts crowd do not really last that long. I had to repaste my laptop about 7 months after i got it and it was already pasted with IC Diamond. But then again this is a very subjective matter. Have a look around on google or other forums here discussing thermal compound and their performance


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The Aorus gives you manual control over the fan speed in their software. Not too sure if MSI allows that as i've only seen that control in their thicker GT line. If we're going on how long these will last, i would personally say the Aorus if you gun for the 1080p model. The 1070 is pure overkill at 1080p but i see it as a good thing a couple of years down the line. It will definitely have the power to run most if not all upcoming games for quite a while at that resolution. Regarding fan noise and temps, based on notebookcheck and Dave2D, the GS73 tends to run a bit louder than the X7 due to its thinner build and therefore thinner fans. Internally the components on the Stealth should run cooler as they aren't the high end GPUs. But the Aorus has the advantage of G Sync and Fast Sync. You can use that to control temps as the GPU wont run full tilt, pushing out just enough for the Sync limit. Also undervolting will help greatly on both models


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The reports are 6-18 months, with some people lasting longer - they don't need the absolute lowest temps and they let the temps climb a bit higher than others before re-pasting.

I doubt 3 years is possible on a laptop, with all the movement and frame flexing, but if you don't move it around and are careful in handling it might extend the time between re-pastes.

ICD can be removed after a long usage by soaking in solvent before trying to wipe it off.

And, ICD is gritty, so make sure you have all the "grit" off the metal before "rubbing" it clean - maybe don't rub at all, but wipe in front or behind it and lift it if off the surface rather than push it across the surface.

There are other pastes, look around for reviews and personal experiences to get an idea of what works and doesn't work well in a laptop.

 

Hey gentlemen, been eyeing the x5 v6 for awhile now but i cant seem to make my mind on whether to buy the 3k 60hz display or the FHD 120 hz display for this beast, what are the pro's and cons of both any advice will be helpful, gonna pull the trigger this week

 

A 120hz display will me much better if you like to play competitive FPS games, such as CS:GO. At full HD, you'll also be able to run games at native resolution and actually take advantage of GSync, as the 1070 may not run every game at 120+ FPS.

With the 60hz 3k screen, you'll also be able to take advantage of GSync as at that resolution, the 1070 can't stay above 60 fps maxxed out in every single game out there -- this is where GSync comes in handy because if you drop below 60 (say, to 48) it still feels very smooth.

I can't speak to colour accuracy or anything, those are just my first thoughts.

One thing to note is that even on a 15 inch screen, high resolution panels are not always a good thing. Windows scaling isn't great, and many old apps don't scale. I have a 4k screen and I regret getting it, because many of the old apps I use for my job *don't scale properly* which means in order to make them usable, I have to run at 1080p which makes things a bit blurry. Just some food for thought.

 

The 3k screen will give the 1070 some room to stretch its legs but then you'll have to live with the uneven scaling due to its somewhat odd resolution. At 1080p, your 1070 will absolutely destroy games. Thats the only downside i personally see to it so far. Keep in mind that the 120hz screen may possibly be a TN panel. Never heard of a IPS laptop screen capable of 120hz as its native refresh rate as of yet so if color accuracy and viewing angles are things that important to you, the the 3k screen will be your best bet

 

Typically this was the case, but this is the first generation of 120hz IPS screens to hit laptops, though they all still have 5ms response time (which is basically immutable for IPS).

In desktop monitors, IPS displays have been coming in 120, 144, and even 160 for some time now.

Aorus website: "FHD IPS 1920x1080 120Hz"

http://www.aorus.com/News/Document?nwid=371

 

The link says " WQHD+ 2880x1620 IPS display for the stunning visual detail; or a Full HD 120Hz refresh rate display for the most fluid gameplay for the FPS enthusiasts"....so am i missing something here?

The only two panel manufacturers that do 120hz screens for laptops are AUO and ChiMei. And they are both TN according to notebookcheck. Do correct me if i am mistaken here I have a 144hz Asus MG279Q monitor myself

 

Okay, so a pretty brief update from me. I have an X7 V6, bought conductonaut, and repasted both the cpu and gpu with it.

Running both Furmark and Prime95 simultaneously at stock clock speeds, the max cpu temp recorded was 70 degrees, max gpu temp about 66 degrees.

with Both cpu and gpu overclocked to the max setting using the Aorus control suite thing, the max temps i saw was about 80, and 67 respectively.

If I can get back to my flat later this eve, then I'll post up some supporting images.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the info. What fan setting is it on? Also is it cold where you live by any chance hahaha

Edit: Ahhh the wonders of liquid metal thermal compound. Shame that i have to get conductonaut through something like Amazon. The only one readily available in my place now is Liquid Pro. Not that bad of a compound IMO especially if we're comparing it with standard goop

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Yes it is pretty cold where I live, at a guess, ambient room temps at the time of the test was probably about 16ish degrees Celsius. The fan mode was set to 'Gaming'.

 

I believe that to be correct as well. The 15" 1080 120Hz screen should be TN so you'll be loosing the better colors and far superior angles of IPS.

It would be interesting to see a battery comparison between the two displays; I'd expect the 1080 to take slightly less power even at the 120Hz when compared to a 3k 60Hz, but hard to say (there was an nvidia bug in their gpu drivers where the gpus couldn't idle properly at lower clock rates when using higher refresh rates, but I believe that has been resolved).

 

This is promising news! Those are awesome temps.

 

Grrr you lot and your freezing temps meanwhile i'm stuck with hot and humid and daily temps of about 30 plus celcius. Easily high 30s to low 40s on a really bad day


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add another 10c to your temps Jared is where i live , given it is winter and our low temps are high 20s to mid 30s so should give the X5 some respite for now until summer when it hits the 50s .

anyhow so you guys reckon the 1080p 120hz is more future proof as in 1070 will kick games arse at the resolution for the next 5 or so years.

 

One thing I've noticed on some videos and pictures of the X7 V6 laptop (both versions) is that it seems to often be bent and that there is a gap between the lid and the rest of the chassis when closed. Please see these images for example:

http://www.notebookcheck.net/fileadmin/Notebooks/Aorus/X7_DT_v6/ports_front.jpg
http://www.notebookcheck.net/fileadmin/Notebooks/Aorus/X7_DT_v6/ports_left.jpg

Is this a common problem or is the same laptop being sent around for reviews?

 

Mine is perfectly flush. As allowed by those rubber stoppers you see on the first picture you posted.
The lid is very strudy, those bends do not look at all accidental to me. At the very least, they don't look like anything another machine (save a mac book or razer) would withstand.

For reference about bending electronics, I would point you to this video:
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...D9AB9E0B314B12EB4389D9AB9E0B314B1&FORM=VRDGAR

 

My quick update:
I did not write the numbers down because I was not trying to do a real test. The numbers I observed left me so unconcerned to the point where I am considering not even repasting. Granted this was using my normal setup with the laptop on a CoolerMaster U3.
Room temp ~ 22 C
Paste: stock / factory - using CoolerMaster U3 Cooler with fans at full
Test: Maximum overclock on GPU and CPU through C&C (4ghz). Real life gaming 3+ hrs (Arma3, Wargame, Dota, Squad) Full Ultra settings. The most demanding of these is ArmA, with an FPS of 70-140 averaging 80ish
CPU: 75
GPU: 70

*fans were on gaming mode but it should be noted that they didn't even kick on high gear.

Currently downloading BF1 for a modern GPU intensive game test. Probably should work on getting official numbers without the cooling pad.

This update is more or less meant to show real life use and help to give confidence to those who will be using this setup in a warmer environment. If I can get stock paste to sit well below the fans kicking into high gear while playing with full OC, I can't imagine that the MSI will do any better. I am going to go ahead and buy into the marketing talk that Aorus gave us about how the new design has the extra vents to aid in the cooling of the DT (gtx 1080) version, which leaves the 1070 version in a good spot.

 

Wait can anyone confirm that the 1080 screen on the x7 v6 is 120 hz with g-sync? If so I'll buy one right away. What temps should I expect stock with no after market thermal

 

If my Alienware 17 w/GTX 1080 has to be sent back to Dell due to thermal issues (uneven heatsink), I'll run off a diving board and jump into this unit. This unit seems to be a sleeper--not much advertising, yet very few (if any) problems, very powerful, and great thermals.

 

As far as I'm aware, the 1080p screen is an IPS 75Hz model. The only 120Hz screen is the 1440p 5ms TN model.

 

Thanks for the correction.

If you scroll down at that link ( http://www.aorus.com/News/Document?nwid=371) to the specifications table at the bottom, it does say IPS for the 120hz FHD version, but not IPS for the 120hz QHD version, so I'm assuming that's a typo.

 

these are specs taken from Scan computers website

https://www.scan.co.uk/products/173...256gb-m2-pcie-ssdplus1tb-hdd-8gb-gtx-1070-win

Display

Screen Size 17.3"
Screen Type IPS
Touchscreen No
Resolution 1920x1080 (Full HD)
Refresh Rate 60 Hz
NVIDIA G-Sync Technology Yes

 

Hey hmscott, how do I undervolt my msi gs73vr? Do I do it in the bios?

 

How long does MX4 last for? If I want a thermal paste I don't want to worry about repasting my thermal paste every year or some months then would I be okay with MX4 lasting just as long as the stock factory thermal paste? Keep in mind I have an MSI gs73vr and thinking about reapplying the thermal paste on that laptop

 

Err i wouldn't personally go for MX4. Doesn't have the omph of others. I'd say go with something like GC Extreme or Kyronaut. People on other threads have very good experiences with them.


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Hey all! I bought the Aorus X5 V6 120hz 1080p model. So far, I love it! I just wanted to see if anyone else with the 120hz panel is noticing this huge white blob at a certain angle? Not sure if this is something I should RMA? I understand TN panels have bad viewing angles, but I don't recall my desktop's TN monitor having this kind of blob. It looks fine when you look at it straight on, but even at a very slight angle, I start seeing the white blob on the left hand side of the screen.

EDIT: Actually, I can sort of see a small portion of that white blob even looking at the monitor straight on.

 

Looks like a Bright spot/clouding. Usually caused by diffusers that are poorly made or not aligned well, cheaply made backlights and/or brightness controllers, or uneven panel mounting. I'd RMA it as that doesn't seem like the norm with these panels.


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Agreed. Haven't seen clouding that bad before. Definite RMA right there. Preferably ASAP


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Not many laptops have that level of tuning, but you can do that undervolt setting in Windows with the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility, here's a recent post I made with the download and some examples:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ns-hit-or-a-miss.795629/page-35#post-10362012

I'd start with -100mV and work up (or down really) in -10mV increments until you are unstable, and then back off -10mV. You may reach as high as -200mV stable, but more likely somewhere around -150mV.

Use the XTU benchmark and stress test to test the stability to start, if that passes, then run 3dmark Fire Strike and other benchmarks - you'll find a nice combination of tests to use to verify stability.

Then do some gaming. If you are still stable, drop down another -10mV and repeat.

As the last stability test, leave Windows open and logged in and let it sit idle for a few hours, if it doesn't spontaneously reboot on it's own, you're good

It should help at least a few degrees under load, maybe as much as 10c-15c, it varies by CPU - every CPU is different.

I had one that was stable at -15mV, very sad, but after a while got it to -25mV stable, then after almost 2 years I got it to -45mV, so the characteristics can change over time, and you should be able to push -1mV or -2mV at a time over time to increase the undervolt.

Have fun

 

Second this. I'd rma fast than I could say "wtf!"


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I'm really interested in getting an Aorus x7 v6 to try out g-sync and the 120 hz screen, for those of you who own it now and has had the screen for some time, how big of a deal is the banding/stripping issue between the pixels compared to using other laptops/screens?


Also if I want to play games at 1080 resolution on the native 1440p screen to increase fps and make use of the 120hz screen will the scaling look bad? I notice that by playing games lower than the native res can look pretty bad so if that's my purpose for the 1440p panel then there's kind of no point in me getting one, does anyone know how bad the refresh rate for the 1080 panel is?




Also I'm kind of confused by the "smaller is better" at the bottom right of this graph, just to be clear the MSI gs73vr display on that graph is way better in contrast and aRGB right?

 

Quick question coming back to the Aorus forums... Is the X7 DT V6 with 1080GTX really performing like a 1070GTX? I remember there were some benches some time ago showing that the performance is not optimal.

Any owners' comments?