Asus UL30VT FAQ / Official Owners Lounge redux

Thanks.

What other settings or tweaks can you recommend?

 

how do you turn on/ off bluetooth, can`t seem to find it?

 

@assassin24:I'm not rly that much into tweaks. I keep Turbo ON and mostly stick to same power plan (high performance) since I hate brightness change every time I do the switch.

I did change Low/Reserve/Critical battery level setting tho. I found defaults silly, considering huge battery capacity, since Windows started whining about low battery more than 1h before it would run out. Hibernation also came too soon for my likings. I use 8/5/3% now. Those are just some random numbers which seemed OK for me. I had to change it manually for all 8 profiles :\
If you're going to change these settings, I want to warn you about going too low on critical level. Li-ion battery fails if it gets discharged beyond certain point, so don't overdo it. Battery management circuitry probably wouldn't let you reach that, but if you left laptop standing in OFF state for few weeks with very low charge, you might pass the point of no return.

 

You have to install "Wireless console". After that you can double click it's icon on taskbar (where clock is) and click bluettoth icon with your mouse. You can also hit "Wi-Fi toggle" button (Fn+F2) to call up console. This method turns Wi-Fi off for a moment tho.

 

thank you

 

man i cant wait to get my laptop in.

 

Kind of a bummer. Was really looking forward to having the UL30VT in my hands, but my desktop hasn't sold on here and is sitting still on eBay. Don't think I can throw myself into buying just yet.

 

In order for the keyboard shortcuts and graphics to all work together you need KBFilter, ATK Generic Function Service, ATK Hotkey, and ATKOSD2 all installed.

 

Hello,

my problem is a little strange, what is worse, it did work at the beginning.

After I got virus, I had to reinstall my Windows7 OS. I downloaded and installed all the drivers from Asus page as I did before. I could have changed the order but I should work just fine, because this time I used the one posted in this topic ;-)
However, since than, my Sharp Aquos TV is not working with my Asus UL30VT.

First I thought that there is some technical problem, but:

TV Sharp is working with another computer (desktop) (cable: DVI->HDMI)
My Asus Notebook is working with another TV (cable HDMI->HDMI)

I am using the same HDMI - HDMI cable, so everything is working, but now it looks like this:

- When I plug my Sharp TV with HDMI, Asus can't see it, I need to reboot system or at least the graphic switch
- After that I can see the Sharp Aquos TV in my Nvidia Control Panel as well as in the Resolution Changing Panel of Win7, but regardless of setting for my TV there is no picture and no sound.

What is the most dumb, is the fact that my System thinks the TV is working, and I think it actually is, because there is an automatic brightness adjustment running on my TV after connection and I can go with my mouse to the TV's screen (but I can't see it of course).

As I Google, I think it is something like Handshaking problem of devices, but I am not sure and I don't know how to deal with it. What is more I really don't know what has happened, it stopped working for no reason!
Any ideas?
Thanks.

 

Can you walk me through how you did this? I'm trying to remap the mute key to F10 and I keep getting "unknown key".

 

It did all work in the beginning.."as you did before" ..what?


OK, lets assume you did a complete install and your using a V1.3 HDMI input on your Sharp.

Do not have Laptop or TV connected at this time, just the HDMI cable connected to the TV and ready.

Boot UL30 with nVidia up and running. TV is on with working cable pluged into an assigned HDMI port with TV set to this input.

Open your Display panel, under Control Panel to "CHANGE DISPLAY SETTINGS".

You should now have the default settings shown as 1 with Mobile PC display shown, default resolution and in landscape mode.

NOW plug your HDMI cable into laptop, display on laptop and TV should go blank for about 2 seconds and up pops both displays with LAST saved settings.

If laptop did not go BLANK for 2-3 seconds,then you found your problem. Your TV was not detected or handshaking failed for any number of reasons.

You can try to use the detect button on your display and tell us what it finds.

 

I mixed the past a bit...
Should be : Than I got a virus, so I had to... bla bla bla.


Anyway I managed to solve this problem with... K-Lite Codec Pack.
I really have no idea how that can influence the HDMI port of the graphic but it seems it does.
And it is working now :/

 

.........

 

I was wondering if anyone knows of a 13.3 inch touch screen that I can mod into my laptop. I have the UL30vt-a1. Also is there anyway to adjust voltages higher than what the processor automatically sets itself to? I want to see if I can push the 1906mhz limit.

 

well looks like im going to have to wait like 2 week for this laptop. JR just ran out of stock and if mine order does not ship out in this shipment I will have to wait till the 11th and it should ship that weekend or on that monday.

 

Well worth the wait, imo!

 

Ya your right. I dont mind waiting for the price that I got the machine for though. I just wish I would not have to wait now that I bought it lol

 

Can someone please tell me if this laptop opens 180 degrees.... Meaning: does the screen/lid open all the way so it is flat even with the keyboard.

None of the recent Dells seem to do this anymore. It's important for me because I keep my laptop on a sliding keyboard tray (using an external monitor) so the display slides behind the desk. Works well for me this way with my limited space.

Thanks to anyone who can answer!

 

The UL30 series laptops can only open to about 140 degrees. If opening the screen 180 degrees is a crucial factor, I'd suggest looking at the Lenovo thinkpad series.

 

Are there any Asus UL30 series in black that have the 5600mAh battery? It seems to be only the silver ones? Already have a silver laptop, would really like black but I feel like Im getting shortchanged- the A1 is spec wise exactly what I want, but the X1 has the 4400mAh batt.

 

There is also the mater of extra year warranty vs the Intel wireless card.

You could buy extra or just swap batteries between the two? Rezer uses third party warranty and seems happy with it. Is the extra runtime on the big battery priority?

 

Many thanks. Just what I needed to know and I appreciate the suggestion.

 

I guess the extra life is not a huge priority- its really good as it is. Just kind of a bummer that the warranty is different and the battery is not as good.

 

Yeah, I have black one with 5600mAh battery, but this is more or less irrelevant for you, since I'm from Europe and we have different revisions (QX002 in my case) around here.

 

Hi everyone,

I will be receiving my UL30VT-A1 shortly. My following question may have been brought up before, but I could not find any related information when doing a search.

Is the Nvidia 210m removable or integrated to the motherboard? If it's removable, has anyone attempted to upgrade to something like a 260m or even switch to ATI? Also, if removable, what is the MXM version and all relevant information that would be necessary in finding a compatible video card upgrade.

Thanks!

 

Hi HerroRara and welcome to the forums

Unfortunately, the 210M is soldered to the motherboard, hence can not be upgraded.

 

Thanks a lot!

 

I'm considering buying the UL30VT as the price has come down quite substantially. Does anyone know if you can use both the VGA and HDMI ports at the same time? My only one requirement for a laptop is having the ability to power my dual 24 inch monitors and i'm hoping this one fits the bill..

 

There in at NewEgg..mine's on the way ,this I meant;

Seagate Momentus XT ST95005620AS 500GB 7200 RPM 2.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s with NCQ Solid State Hybrid Drive -Bare Drive - OEM $129

 

Well, I've been tinkering with my ul30vt-a1 for the last couple of days. First of all, I did wind up tearing it apart to check the clock generator. It uses the same ICS9LR3362CGLF chip as the UL30A.

Swapped out the stock RAM for a set of Kingston 1333 CL7, and it runs 6-6-6-16 timings when under 666Mhz. I've had the CPU up to 2075Mhz, but there isn't much stability over 2050Mhz right now. Haven't looked into adding any voltage, and won't until I'm sure that I can keep temps 75*C or lower under load.

May re-install stock RAM just to see if the tighter timings on the Kingston is an issue. I would like to use the Kingston, since I know the overclocking headroom is there...maybe I can re-write the SPD tables. Anyway, just thought I would mention that there are some possibilities for performance tuning besides a GPU OC and an inelegant SetFSB hack.

EDIT: Stability issues definitely caused by lower latency RAM. Moving back to the stock RAM, I was able to push up to 2.1Ghz and it seems stable. I was able to complete a run of 3DMark06 with no problem, and CPU was ~ 67*C.

 

cool..are you going to try undervoltage?

Your temps are the same I see at 1900. I wonder if we are getting temp errors like the 1201n used to get during OC?

BTW, rexrzer727 's has hit 2346Mhz.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/asu...t-ul50vt-beyond-turbo-mode-7.html#post6231729

 

Curious...I never got any temp errors on my 1201N when overclocking. There is a well documented issue with the way CoreTemp reports on the 1201, but I always used HWMonitor.

As far as the ul30 temps go, I don't think there are any errors. I forgot to turn on the fans in my cooling pad earlier and the temps hit 78*C, so the heat definitely scales with the increase in speed.

I think I came across the 2346Mhz thread a while back, but I have my doubts. The SU7300 has a dynamic multiplier, but is is upwardly locked @ 6.5x. Since the user in that thread reported a fluctuating multiplier up to 8x, and only on battery, I am more inclined to believe it was a read/report or logic error. Either way, that speed wouldn't be practical anyway. With only one small heatpipe cooling the CPU, GPU, and an Intel chipset/IGP, there just isn't enough surface area to dissipate all that heat!

 

Hi guys, I just received my UL30VT-A1 today. Everything seems to be working just fine except the left power button (Express Gate / Graphix Boost) never lights up. Is this by design? It does not light up regardless if I press it for Express Gate or Graphix Boost. Any help would be appreciated.

 

The ExpressGate/GraphixBoost button itself isn't suppose to light up like the power button. However, when you use the button to enter your ExpressGate OS, it should make your numlock and caplock indicator lights light up.

 

Darn you, Amazon! Why did you have to raise the price by $40? I was all set to buy the UL30VT-A1 today and I saw that on their site.

 

I think you're mistaken. For some reason, Amazon is defaulting to a UL30VT-A1 from "Abes of Maine Cameras and Electronics"; however, if you look to the right under More Buying Choices, you'll see that Amazon is still selling the A1 for cheap ($690).

Those probably won't last though, as they replace them w/ new models after their Kindle software deal (see UL30VT-X1K for $699 vs UL30VT-X1 for $659)

 

E-bay has some in the $630-$650 range....

 

Just about to get excited when it looks like the laptop won't be sent out until the end of June! Blech!

Thing is, I wanted to get a laptop in time for June 14th when I head to LA for E3 2010. Are there any places with deals really close to that, or a very comparable laptop on Amazon.com which would benefit me more due to my gift card and Amazon Payments balance?

And for the eBay auctions, those only come with the 3-month ASUS refurbished warranty. Hardly a deal. lol

 

$670...

ASUS UL30Vt A1 - Core 2 Duo 1.3 GHz - 13.3 " - 4 GB Ram - 500 GB HDD

Or bing cash back ~ $700

http://www.bing.pt/shopping/search?q=ASUS UL30Vt A1&FORM=EGRE&p1=[CommerceService+scenario%3d%22o%22+docid%3d%2280466888B6AAE6C40001%22]&wf=Commerce

 

What the heck is Elshop? I have never seen that before. Any reviews?

 

I looked into it, and I can't find any listings with the better business bureau. On the rare occasions that I do business with a company that I can't find a BBB listing on, I use PayPal for the transaction so that there is some measure of buyer protection. In this case, since the transaction is so large, I would probably go the bing route, but that's really your call...

 

I RMA'd my original Seagate today. I was getting things set up for new Momentus XT when I noticed one sector allocation error when I ran Everest.

Having the drives side by side is USB cases, I did notice the Seagate has slightly more vibration than my WD drive as reported by others...but nowhere near as strong to vibrate laptop around desk; reported by one.

 

I used HW monitor, as well, and recored temperature drops on my 1201n when OCed..regardless of what the real temp was. I used an external temp probe and saw a 7C temp rise (64C) at the vents, FWIW. When I read that I had to void warranty to swap drives, she got gone!

1900 will be the highest I push the 7300. The displayed temperatures do ramp up unlike my 1201 so I guess we are safe if the sensor is on the level. As you said, we can only dissipate so much heat with the dinky single heat pipe.

 

It's a spam website which the owner has gone through extensive efforts to hide his/her details from reverse IP searches and WHOIS queries.

 

Ah, that... I was never convinced that there was a reporting error in those cases. If the fan in the 1201N is thermistor controlled, then you have resistance that varies based on heat. It's possible in those cases that over sensitive thermistors ramped up fan speeds exponentially based on ambient temperature. Quote...

"When a current flows through a thermistor, it will generate heat which will raise the temperature of the thermistor above that of its environment. If the thermistor is being used to measure the temperature of the environment, this electrical heating may introduce a significant error if a correction is not made. Alternatively, this effect itself can be exploited. It can, for example, make a sensitive air-flow device employed in a sailplane rate-of-climb instrument...."

What you may have had was technically a faulty response, but it gave you a superior cooling solution to other 1201N's.

 

David, thanks for taking the time to help me. I checked and the numlock and capslock lights do come on when I press the button.

 

I don't see where the confusion is. Amazon has it for $690 as of this post and J&R has it for $740. I just received mine from J&R. Bought it last week for about $720 with Bing cashback.

 

Hi,

I am using Wireless Console 3 and when I hit Fn+F2 it toggles between BOTH WiFi and BT On or Off. There is no WiFi On, BT off or BT on, Wifi Off. Just both on or off. Is this correct behavior?

 

Yes it's normal. You can still use mouse to toggle Wi-Fi and/or BT whenever you see console.
So to turn BT off I would either manually start console or hit Fn + F2 twice and then click on BT icon while console is still visible.

I hope I made it a bit clearer this time

 

No confusion. Just the matter that I want the laptop by E3 so I can have it to use and Amazon not being able to ship out the UL30VT-A1 until the end of June. I have $67 from a gift card to use at Amazon, so I figured the best route would be to use it on my next computer.

EDIT: Oh my! I guess they restocked, because you can now get it delivered today. I just ordered my UL30VT-A1. I can't wait!!