*** ASUS Zephyrus M (GM501) Owner's Lounge ***

Hi all,

Would anyone possible be able to help.

I finally went ahead with a clean install and it solved my permanent boost problem. I reinstalled most apps and everything works fine. Only thing I can't get working is the Aura keyboard lighting, even if I install both drivers from the site.

Would anyone be able to upload their drivers from the help folder at all?

Thanks

 

Send you a message. Hope those help you out.

 

that's what I did xD I reduced it by 1k mhz. but whats the point of having a high core clock CPU if I wouldn't use it. hahahahah. doing that, along with undervolting, gives me around 10-20 less hot than stock count.

 

do let me know after you tested with the zephyrus. was it M or S or original zephyrus?

 

im using the M with the full GTX 1070

 

Anyone else have really slow download speeds in Steam? im only getting max of 24mb down and i have a 500mb connection and it never stays consistent it will peaks and then wither out until 0 then boost back up again not sure why... I went to intels website to update the driver and it says Package cannot be installed on this computer?? wierd never had that issue before. so im stuck using the most recent driver i can get from Windows update which is always very behind. 20.60.2.2 when its now on 20.90.0

 

Can you please let me know what you did I am having a problem with my aura core too

 

well I don't know if this the laptop issue or steam's issue. I might believe its the latter. maybe steam download a segment of the file and then do a partial installation? xD cuz im having the same issue with steam, but I never had this issue with other downloads like internet download manager

 

Exactly same issue. Steam and driver...
But don't worry it s steam since I go up to 11mb/s on other plateform...
For driver still didn't find answer...

 

Apparently it's because of the HD being so slow. I haven't been able to test it but I read sdownload speeds are determined by the write speeds of the drive.

 

I actually had problems too with download speeds, but not only on steam... wifi connection went up and down continuosly in multiplayer games, I often got packets loss and so on. The problems goes away days ago, after I found the reason to be Asus software "GameFirst V" which messes up with connection speeds and priorities for each application.
I would suggest you to try uninstalling or temporary disabling it, and see if it was the cause to you too.

 

I removed GameFirst too, I'm not sure it's super necessary.

I fixed my boost problem, in the end I clean installed windows and got Aura working by finding a ISO with all the drivers on. Let ASUS Install install every driver (I gave Gamefirst, Xsplit and the Nvidia driver a miss though). After that install Aura core under Win32, Aura Core under StoreApp, and finally the Lighting Service. Works perfectly now.

One question though.

Does anyone else notice and loud volumes the speakers seem to resonate with the laptop keys causing them to vibrate? Not everything does it, but sometimes voices etc cause my keys to have an audible rattling sound. Not a dealbreaker, since it's usually at louder volumes than I'd use it at.

 

For undervolt the CPU AND GPU here are my settings

 

Speaking with TS author, he said that for 8750H same undervolt value for core and cache should be better. I tested -125/ -47.9 and -50.8 /-50.8, both fully stable... but still I can't figure out, though, which one is really the best over the other.

 

I do have the issue of resonating keys (or laptop shell itself, not sure) on some media.
Also, the sound does get pretty low in some games / videos.
Comparing to my old Y700 the resonating issue and the volume is nowhere near the good and loud sound quality I had on my Y700.
I even wanted to ask you guys to help with checking the sound dB on some video to compare.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

 

I'm sure it's the keys, if you place your hand fairly firmly over the number keys you should notice it really make a difference, it makes sense as they're directly over the speaker too.

If you want to improve it, you can use the Sonic Studio EQ to lower the volume of certain frequencies, to improve it, at the expense of some bass.

 

Hello there,

When I received my GM501GS-XS74 from HIDEvolution, I noticed that a BIOS update was installed automatically via a Windows update.
The system shipped with version 304 of the BIOS, which was automatically updated to release 306.

If we have an ASUS rep on these forums, I have a few observations that I'd like cleared regarding this update process:

1. The update process, wherein the firmware is issued by Asus, and provisioned through Windows Update, as documented here via the Windows UEFI Firmware update platform seems very familiar to how LVFS (the Linux Vendor Firmware Update)'s fwupd daemon works: Essentially relying upon the standardized mechanism consisting of an EFI System Resource Table (ESRT) and UEFI Capsule for hand-over when updating the firmware. See this breakdown by Richard Hughes, the LVFS maintainer, while discussing the issue of system76's conflict with the LVFS.

2. There's also the vendor status for Asus on the LVFS website, which you can see here. The comment reads: "Emailed asking for comment on 2018-02-28".

Considering that the update processes are very similar on both Windows and Linux, can we expect Asus firmware to be provisioned through the LVFS's fwupd, similar to what vendors such as Dell have done?

 

I received my first Asus M GM 501 from Amazon and determined problems with the speakers. The left speaker was working as far as good, but the right speaker was vibrating / electronical buzzing when I listened to music, watched videos or played games. So, I returned the notebook to Amazon and got a replacement. But the second notebook has the same issue. I contacted the technical support from Amazon and Asus, but nobody could help regarding this issue. I made a complete clean install, installed the latest drivers, tried it out with sonic suite and without sonic suite, but I could not solve the problem.

Does anyone has the same problem? Is that a common problem of the Asus M GM 501? Is there a possibility to fix this problem?

 

I am thinking of getting an external monitor with 144/165Hz, but since this laptop does NOT have a DisplayPort (only HDMI), I believe this laptop will not be able to output at 144Hz since you need DisplayPort?

 

Hello, I don't have a USB c to display port but do have USB c hub with HDMI.

I have 2 monitors connected but the highest with HDMI it goes to 120Hz. On either port.
Haven't been able to confirm if USB C to display port would give you the results so can't confirm fully.

1 monitor is 144Hz and the 2nd monitor is 60Hz.

If anyone else have tried USB C to display port could give you a more definite answer.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

 

Please refer to a post from a few days ago, had the same issue :

http://forum.notebookreview.com/index.php?posts/10817020

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

 

You still get the keyboard vibration though right? I'm sure that can't be fixed by a driver fix.

By the way. I opened up the laptop to look at the speakers. They sit freely inside, they're not fixed down as such, I think it would be possible to dampen the noise a little if anyone was hugely bothered.

Try playing a sound that causes the noise, and make it so the laptop can stay on when the lid is close. You should find that it doesn't do it. It's not a speaker issue as such, the speakers are resonating with the keyboard causing the vibrating noise. I did the exact same as you, everything GM501 I've seen does it to some degree.

One other thing, after a clean install and update, I noticed that I have the XTUservice running in my task manager. The app isn't installed itself, does anyone else have the same thing?

Thanks.

 

I do get it still, but it's a whole lot better now after correct drivers installation than what it was originally. (like from 75% rattling to only 5%)

I do still get the rattling sound but only occasionally.

Also, I guess you were right about the keyboard as a source of the rattle.

Please do share if you'd succeed to fix it hardware-wise.

Also, I'm going to repaste the CPU and GPU with LM (TG Conductonaut) and the rest with some Arctic Mx4.
So while I'm at it in gonna look at the keys rattling as well.
I'll let you know about the results on the stress test and fan acoustics.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

 

I'll take a look perhaps when/if I upgrade my SSD at some point. I'm not in a rush it's no biggie for me. So are you still using Sonic Studio etc? I found messing with settings there helped the noise.

 

I did mess with the Sonic Studio equalizer to get louder but less rattling sound.
Even so, I'm still bummed out with the loudness on this laptop.. Again, comparing to my trusty Y700..
The surround sound effects and bass is actually better on this laptop than the Y700, so that's a plus.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

 

Yeah the bass does impress me, but I guess that's what causes the rattle is that it's pretty deep.

Has anyone undervolted more than -125 on the core btw? Is there any reason not to try it?

 

Hi fellas,

I need your help.

I want to put an end to the guessing game - " are my laptop speakers bad and should I hand it down for a check up".

For that you need these conditions met:

1) Use defaults in Sonic Studio (with Equalizer set to none and Sonic Studio Effects set to off).
2) Windows volume 100%.
3) Play this audio on YouTube on 720p -
4) Use a sound meter app on your phone, I have used - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gamebasic.decibel

Now what is mostly interesting for me is :

1) Do you have rattling sound on 01:59 to 02:20 (250 Hz to 315 Hz)? Mine does rattle.
2) What is the dB rating seen on the app when you're on 03:02 to 03:12 (1 KHz)? I get 74-75 dB tops.

The reason I'm doing this is because on my older Lenovo Y700 I get no rattling sound whatsoever and the dB rating on 1 KHz is 78 dB!
It sound like the difference between 75 and 78 is negligible but dB rating doesn't work that way, IT IS way louder ( https://boomspeaker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/dB-noise-level-chart-800x400.png)!
On this review from NBC it says that the GM501GS has a maximum volume of 86 dB! The difference between 75 dB and 86 dB is HUGE!
https://www.notebookcheck.net/Asus-...-GTX-1070-Full-HD-Laptop-Review.293956.0.html

So, basically what I want to find out is do you guys experience the rattling issue and what's the loudest dB you get on 1KHz so that I'll know do I have to hand mine for a check-up / repair or is it normal so I'll accept it the way it is and go ahead with thermal repasting.

Also, it would be very beneficial to get results from people who don't seem to have an issue with the speakers whatsoever along with people who have trouble.

Now, granted, the test done on a smartphone is not accurate enough but it'll do just to understand if people here got a faulty speaker assembly (or a bad audio IC) and should get the laptop fixed / switched.

Thank you in advance,
Daniel

 

I downloaded windows from Microsoft site (media creation tool) and installed clean. Regarding the drivers, I copied the file "eDriver" from c:/eSupport/eDriver and saved it on an USB stick. After the clean installation of windows I copied the file "eDriver" from USB stick back to c:/ and did run the Asus installation wizard. It installed the original drivers automatically as they came with the notebook.

Could you tell me which drivers you did install?

 

Every driver from the GM501GS support page, make sure to expand the list to see them all, be sure to install the Intel I/O drivers etc. as well.

**Edit
Here you go, a zipped file with all drivers - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZiE8cB_0z_0TMxgB3LaG5g2BuS1Oj9ye
Unpack and install each one, start with the vcredist_x64.
Keep in mind, this is not including NVidia and Intel graphics, those I suggest you download separately from their respective sites.

 

I will try your sound thing asap.

I ran the asus installer from the factory iso, and I think it installed everything. I'm hesitant to start piling more drivers on top, but may give it a go.

 

Thank you for considering trying the audio test.
But the drivers thing was not meant as a part of the process, I uploaded it to help the other guy here.
If you restored from Asus iso there's no need for the drivers installation IMO.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

 

Hi everyone! I recently got myself a Zephyrus M with the GTX 1070. This is my first gaming laptop, so I'm quite unexperienced. I've repasted it with Kryonaut and undervolted it, -125 mV on core and -49.8 mV on cache clock, but it still seems to get quite warm. The hottest I got this CPU was about 91-92 Celsius while gaming, I wanna know if these temps are normal and if this is a safe operating temperature for this unit?

 

I have a new update for bios . Bios 307. Flashing went fine ... Don't see any improvement....

 

I flashed it almost a week ago, just a system stability improvement I think.

 

This works on your GM501GS-XS74?

 

I'll try undervolting with Throttlestop using these values and report back.

 

Guys,

If you have this system, you SHOULD undervolt. Be it on Windows, or on Linux.

Using the offsets provided here:

-125mV for core, -50mV for cache

Here are my observed results:

(a). On Windows, without the undervolt, my temperatures for the CPU would spike into the high 90s temporarily before settling into high 80s as the fans ramped up and kicked in, using the default (balanced) fan profile. Tested workload: Producing a 4k HEVC video with Cyberlink Power Director.

(b). On Linux, when compiling a Linux kernel and building Yocto-based projects, the same pattern would be observed: A spike of up to high 90s, followed by a steady drop to high 80s as the fans ramped up.

After the undervolt:

(a). On Windows, with the same workload, the cores never exceeded 77 degrees.
(b). On Linux, with the workload(s) described above, the core temperatures only spike up to ~80 degrees, remaining steady at the ~78 degree mark.

Go ye forth and undervolt that 8750H!

 

PSA:

1. Undervolting on Linux with the GM501GS: https://gist.github.com/Brainiarc7/c3fa09bc2ecb4153434cd98b6fb06238#file-02-undervolting-linux-md

2. Undervolting on Windows: I used the Throttlestop guide found on these forums.

 

It's hight but ok if you don't touch 95-97.
What about gpu ?

Personally my CPU reach 76-80 max. And gpu 82 to 87 max (depending of the game). So no issue at all

 

Thank you very much, did it as well, stress tested for 5 minutes with Prime95 on balanced fan and balanced battery.
From 77-96C it went down to 77-86C.

 

Is this with stock cooling?

If so, you're doing really well. Better than average, if I might add.

 

It is actually.

Tomorrow (or maybe the day after) I'm going to repaste with TG Conductonaut on CPU / GPU and Arctic MX-4 on the rest.
I will post results.
Even though I've seen some post on ROG forums regarding this repaste and this guy swears by -10C.

Keep in my mind, the test I ran was with Prime95 (SmallFFTs) which does not involve RAM and only for 5-10 minutes but it seemed pretty conclusive.
Also, I did not enable SpeedShift EPP.

 

Either way, your system is doing really well.

 

Very good result with GPU undervolt. 79 -80 degree instead of 84-85

 

OK, so I did the repaste, here are the results :
Undervolt + repaste 76-78C (balanced fan setting, on overboost fan setting 69-75C).

***EDIT***

I have found that undervolting with 125 core and 49.8 cache made some errors in Prime95 SmallFFTs testing (a hardware fault) and even got BSOD 3 times so I went ahead and removed the undervolting setting and checked again, no errors and the temps are 74-80C.

So in conclusion - went from 77-96C to 74-80C with just repasting and a stable non-undervolted configuration on balanced fans setting.

If you do not mind the crazy overboost fan acoustics you can get 70-78C.

For what it's worth, on silent fan setting you get 63C but of course that means the CPU boost is disabled.

 

It's much easier to simply tune your undervolt for stable operation - prime95 small FFT (AVX/FM off) for 10c reduction in 100% CPU temperature, enough to stop thermal throttling, than to pull apart the laptop and physically alter the laptop.

Doing both is unnecessary if the undervolt reduces operational temperatures below thermal throttling.

You do gain "glamour" points by reducing the temps further with re-pasting, but you gain no performance benefits.

 

You are 100% correct, you don't need to do both.

Even so, I'm more of a person that doesn't like starving the CPU (even if it's 100% fine and it's crippled only in my head) and I do not have any problem tinkering with my own hardware.
I'm sure the undervolting approach alone is more than enough and suits 90% of users and I just wanted to share my findings with LM repaste for people to know what to expect and let them decide what they want to do, that's it.

You could actually gain performance if you repaste with LM and overclock it though, right?

Also, I do it for my own personal challenge, we all have our quirks..

BTW,
This laptop does not thermal-throttle whatsoever even without the changes, so why do people still do undervolt and repaste?

 

As long as the CPU isn't compensating for higher temps it won't perform better with lower than needed temps. As long it is below the thermal throttling point, it's fine.

But, with undervolting there can be an additional boost in performance by delaying power throttling, a nice side benefit of undervolting over simply reducing temperatures by re-pasting.

The other often overlooked effect of re-pasting is that enthusiast pastes require redoing on a regular basis to maintain the low temps, especially in noteboooks that get moved around a lot.

That flexure can introduce air under the heat plates and can dry out and oxidize the paste - even LM oxidizes when exposed to air - and reacts with copper to seep into the material, requiring cleaning and reapplication over time.

The "crappy" OEM paste is designed to not dry out - it's already hard or rubbery and while not providing the best temps it usually lasts years - through the lifetime of the initial first owners of the laptop - sometimes many years past the "3rd" owner. It's designed for long lasting stability so the laptop owners don't need to think about it.

While enthusiast pastes come with an added burden of telling potential 2nd hand owners about the fact they will need to continue the re-pasting regimen during their ownership time. Sometimes a deal breaker, not everyone is a DIY enthusiast.

For most simply undervolting -100mV (most CPU's are ok at that setting) is enough to cool the CPU -10C at 100% load and is a quick and easy way to stop thermal throttling and get back to using the laptop. YMMV.

 

Guys,

Apparently we are loosing some extra FPS on some games due to lower TDP than other laptop with similar configurations.

I am a little bit confused, but how can we boost our TDP since it seems to be the only reason of the global underperformances...

Please have a look to the video for more details :

 

Hi people. I have a gm501gs, the 1070 version of this laptop and i'm very happy with my choice. The only drawback is the battery and however huge brick that you need to take with you everywhere.
Since I use this laptop for gaming and work, I wanted to buy a usb dongle for my workplace so that I just connect all the devices, including monitor, keyboard, mouse, etc to the dongle and then just attach the dongle to the pc.
Does anyone know if the laptop can be powered using the usb-c port? I know the charging over usb-c does not have enough power to charge the battery, but I was thinking, maybe it is enough to keep the laptop running when not gaming.

I have different usb-c laptop chargers, even asus ones, see pics, that i can test, but i'm afraid to try couse i dont want to fry the laptop

Thanks all for the help