*OFFICIAL* Alienware Area-51M R1 Owner's Lounge

Had a little peak. There may be a little trace here under the red arrow. However, If I were a betting man I'd say that LM didn't harm this GPU

Spoiler

 

Anyone found a good calibration profile for AUO409D?

 

Also where ur arrow is , there is nothing there

 

The on top right beside die is weird.

 

Tape reflection

keep eyes on all the silvery area inside the cellotape to the bottom left , am sure u see those

 

The laptop came with the lcd fried from one side, this caused a noticeable burn mark on the bezel. I disassembled the whole laptop and removed the lcd to check for damage beyond the lcd, luckily there was none on the motherboard or gpu. I have ordered a new 144hz lcd and am waiting for it as we speak, should be here by Tuesday...

The bios detects the rtx 2080 perfectly which makes me believe that not having an internal screen is indeed messing stuff up.

 

I can’t say yes or no. It’s easier sit right above the chips. But fried components due LM leakage is normally easier see than from this pictures. Hope you get clear answers from RMA (When they open it).

Edit. Checked the components below the card?

 

No worries , we shouldn’t be able to see everything on earth , it’s a burden

 

My GTX 1070 mxm die has liquid metal leaking on all sides, the thing is that I taped the corners well and heated the tape after putting it on to make the tape glue stick to the gpu. This creates a kind of liquid proof seal.

Yes the liquid metal looks like it has gone underneath but you can usually get a tissue and just lightly try taking it off. If it doesn’t move then it is underneath. Nevertheless it does look like HID did a **** job on the gpu, I would have done it better for you!

 

has anyone any input if it's worth swapping a 9900k (with ht disabled) for a 9700k? i'm only asking since i git a 9900k in my machine that i use with ht off and also have a 9700k laying around, so i though that would be something to do for sunday evening ;-) but i have no idea id this is anything that makes sense (since i don't use my 9900k with ht on)? maybe temp wise?
cheers and have a great sunday @ALL


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Read this one... https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-9-3900x-smt-off-vs-intel-9900k/

 

thanks a lot man for that golden input. so i guess i will probably have to do it xD


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I wouldn't do that considering the 16MB cache in 9900K vs 12MB in 9700K + lower single/dual core boost clocks of 5GHz in 9900K vs 4.9GHz in 9700K. Your work flows could really take advantage of the extra cache that's available (even if you disable hyper threading). But at the end of the day, it depends upon what you want to do with your CPU. My suggestion would be to leave the 9900K alone and enjoy your stuff. If you want lower temps, delid and LM between dye and IHS is a must. Without that, it's not going to be a monumental difference.

 

well i don't use the 51m for anything at all except gaming. really for nothing else, that's why i thought about doing it. i'll be delidding whichever cpu i'll be using anyways


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That’s the reason why I picked a 8700k over a 9700k, delid is easier and it is known to run cooler. Plus the hyper threading has its benefits.

 

9th Gen delid is also easy. In fact too easy! I tried my old 8700k in this machine but found it to be no match for the 9900k so I swapped my 9900k back in and sold the old one.

 

fair enough, I have yet to delid a 9th gen processor

 

Get yourself a rockit cool 9th Gen delid kit and some liquid metal and you'll be done in a few hours. Just don't forget to relid the cpu with some sort of silicon gasket maker that is usually used for automotive work. The key to success is to not apply a thick layer of sealant and work as quickly as possible so that the sealant doesn't dry up before you press the IHS to the pcb. That'll add to the z-height of the package and potentially result in bad thermals. Also, don't forget to coat any open connection points under the IHS with liquid electrical tape or clear coat nail polish.

 

9900k is a beast

 

Ik, had one in my Clevo P870KM1, it was a monster...

 

Did you use the Same copper IHS From rock it? I just wanted to confirm.

 

I'm following your logic.
The temps are a lower plus with some OC, in gaming, there's not a giant difference in performance.

 

i might just get a pre binned, delidded sl one and sell mine ^^ i noticed i also have another 9900k i took out of a system that i completely forgot about


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that’s exactly what I did, saves the hassle of a botched job

 

are you happy with it? perf. and temp. wise? what kind of did you get?
i'll test later on how much v the 9900k i have now needs for 5ghz, as i plan on getting a pre-binned one rated for that speed (but won't run it at that speed 24/7).

well i already delidded a 9900k before, but now i don't feel like doing it again ;-)


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I ran an 8th gen IHS on my 9900K for a while but then realized that it was adding to the z-height so I got rid of it. 9th Gen IHS also needs lapping which I don't have the time to do these days and it really isn't worth a ton to replace the stock IHS with copper, especially not with this cooler in this form factor. The difference would be more obvious with a high end water block or liquid nitrogen but it will be within margin of error with this 2 fan setup so absolutely a fruitless activity unless some sort of compulsive OCD is involved.

 

I ran my 8600k and 8700k on direct die cooling. Using a single lapped small copper pad to allow contact between the die and heatsink. This is the best way to shave of another 5c.

 

You cannot do that in here (this has been discussed before numerous times in this thread already). The VRMs around the CPU socket will not allow you to have a direct dye scenario here unless you grind the heat sink precisely and ensure good thermal pad contact with the newly ground heat sink. Plus, it will be bent and will probably never sit flat on the dye anyway because of the newly introduced incline due to lower z-height profile at the CPU area. Real world scenario is that this is not needed if you have liquid metal between the dye and the IHS anyway. On desktop machines, it's a totally different story.

 

The die and pcb package is higher than the 8th gen 8700K. Correct done it should work.

And who would replace Intel’s soldered tim due swap to rockit lid if they went for Liquid nitrogen cooling?

 

Wow. Not sure about repaste job, can't clearly see what's happening under the tape but the thermal pads are applied pretty lazily and look undersized. That would probably have little effect on temperature of components under those thermal pads but I am not sure I would order anything from such reseller with such poor attention to details. Thanks for the images. I guess I will be ordering stuff directly from Dell.

 

Can anyone confirm if the other GPU options have failed or has it only been the 2080s? Also I keep seeing that the thermal compounds that have been used on the GPU's have been killing them. IS the issue bad GPU's, bad thermal compound jobs or a mix of both.

Im trying to save my self the heart ache of dealing with a paper weight as well as tech support and waiting.

Can you provide pics of the LCD tear down and reassembly. How hard is it?

 

Mostly the 2080s and a couple of 2070s

 

Really? Those are memory chips and that kind of thermal pad job will kill the GPU. It's not just about the "temps" that appear in the OS. It's about protecting all the memory arrays inside the dye in ALL places. Letting some heat up while keeping others cool is a good way to kill it.

Plenty of 2070's have also failed, and to be fair, there has been no 2080 failure as of late ever since the power components were revised. So at this point in time. 2080 is an overall better option to go with.

The hardest part is to get the glued-on screen off from it's place without damaging it and then sticking the new screen on precisely so that it doesn't tilt or move while you are installing the rest of the parts because if that happens, that's all you'll end up seeing. Imperfections on the screen are quite hard to ignore.

 

I've seen worse cooling on VRAM, where factory worker or machine have skipped one thermal pad on one VRAM chip on video card, that card happily worked for a few years until the person who owned it decided to repaste the GPU ;-) So like I said, I doubt this would really hurt the surrounding VRAM chips but I definitely don't like the sloppy job the person did with cutting and applying those pads, this means the person can also cause the real short by letting liquid metal paste touch the exposed capacitors or by not tightening screws hard enough, or by stripping the screws and thinking "nobody will notice and if someone will - I'll just say customer did it" and other things like that. You know, a typical person who hates his job and just rushes things ;-) And if company let such workers to work there until customer accidentally exposes such job - well, that's definitely not the company I would support.

 

That was another card and probably another memory chip and a different form factor. This kind of experiences are not comparable and certainly not usable to justify this kind of thermal pad jobs or to pretend that there is nothing wrong. I'm quite sure that those memory chips were not running at 7 GHz out of the box and still having potential room for overclock out of the box. However, since HIDevolution has already apologized for this in the past in my case and this laptop was probably purchased prior to that event, they deserve another chance. But that still doesn't imply that this thermal pad job is safe.

 

I'll try to have a look for some better VRMs, if there are other with better electrical parameters.

RIP RTX card... sadly..

edit: but, clean it and measure resistance on the GPU vrm? IDK how much ohms should be there, but there is a small chance that only a VRM dies and others just protect the GPU by grounding via lower MOSFET.

 

Card is in courier back to HID for a new card already , no energy for Doctor Who just yet

 

yep I snapped my already broken screen, although I will make a guide on how to take it off properly, I think I have found a better way...

@S.K the best method that dell should have used is to use a thin layer of tape glue and join the bezel to the lcd. Not the damn lcd to the lid. This would have made it much easier to disassemble.

The lcd can’t physically move in the lid anyway, it is housed in a tight amount of space, glue or no glue it won’t be going anywhere that’s for sure.

 

I'm thinking of repasting my laptop, as the GPU temps are worse than average of what I have seen here.
But I most definitely don't want to do liquid metal, due to difficult to apply and it possibly damaging the heatsink after long time, as I don't plan to repaste it for like 3 years to come.

Did anyone try coollaboratory liquid metalpad, its performance looks good and seems very easy to use.

 

Phobya Nanogrease extreme works almost as good as LM for me on the GPU. I'd give that a shot. For thermal pads, you can follow this size guide. http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-for-alienware-area-51m-9900k-rtx2080.829543/

 

People seems to forget. 2080 and 2060. Then a few 2070
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-owners-lounge.826831/page-1149#post-10913941

Many graphics and power delivery is for sure saved by Dell’s newer firmware which lower stress on components (somewhat crippling performance).

Only support ram which is below Intel’s specs help also on lowering stress on Cpu and MB on the Area-51m.

Vram doesn’t push much heat. People forget that part.

Some have tried on other machines. But good quality paste is better.

 

Bare minimum change the paste and leave Dell pads. But do both if your comfortable. I personally hate doing laptop heat sinks, pad thickness etc. Desktops is SO SO much easier.

 

Can anyone give me some programs I should download to undervolt and overclock my 51m please? Can set my profile on OC2 in the Alienware command center and be fine?

 

So would you say its a bad idea to buy from the outlet to save a few bucks since the components might not have been revised on them?

 

Turn off the OC in the Dell crappy software. Either Throttlestop seems to be the weapon of choice. I have used both TS and Intel XTu with decent luck.

 

UAC off or on ?

 

I am cancelling my order, 32Go RAM was overkill and I can have a better deal with the current sales.
BTW, it's odd that the 51m is always on sale on Dell Canada,13% to 17% each week with rotating configurations, sale price is kind of matching US price. I don't understand if its just a sale practice or if the Canadian price of the 51M is going to be at term more expensive on this side of the border...

Anyway, now I have to decide if I am sticking with the 2080 or downgrade to 2070, I will only use a 1080 display and the throttling / heat issue with the 2080 is a concern to me. I am not reassure by the latest posts here or on reddit. I may even stay on hold until they release a 51M-R2 with an hypothetical better heat control management... I am back on the fence now, too bad I can have full confidence that this product will work as intended.

 

I've no clue what heat issue of the 2080 you're talking about, even with a 180W vBIOS, the RTX 2080 in the Area 51m is one of the fastest performing 2080s on the market today, only few "enthusiast tweaked" Clevos perform remotely close to this 2080, in fact, it is within 3-5% of desktop 2080s. In some games, like Assassin's Creed Odyssey for example, I'm am getting more fps on this than a 9900K, 2080 full blown desktop.

There were initial reports of burning 2080s which was concerning to say the least but I haven't seen it after the revisions which happened few months back. Even if you used the power crippled BIOS 1.6.2 and vBIOS 180W for "maximum safety", this 2080 is still faster than the soldered 2080 on the new GT76 and performs better any day.

In terms of temps, after applying Phobya nanogrease and undervolting to .925mV @ 1940Mhz, my temps in Dubai with no AC, ambient temps of 36C+, it has never crossed 78C after 2 hours of Metro Exodus and other demanding titles.

If you are getting a 17% discount, this is the best performing system you can buy at the moment. Who knows about R2 since Azor is gone, this might be his last legacy desktop replacement at Alienware. You never know.

Sent from a Galaxy S9+

 

I prefer off.