I feel your pain. I used a 15R4 for my dissertation partially because of the hardware configuration. Both the Tesla V100 in the AGA and the GTX 1060 dGPU can operate headless if you disable the built-in display and only use an external monitor through the thunderbolt port that has the Intel UHD 630 wired to it.
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alaskajoel and etern4l like this.
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Has anyone managed to shunt mod their m15 R2?
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Hi all, anyone familiar with 2019 M15R2 9750H/2060 overheating and if the heatsinks tend to be poorly misaligned from the factory? Hitting 101C on load at full speeds. Dell sending tech to replace heatsink/fans, got thicker Coolermaster Maker paste, any tips on the heatsink alignment job and repasting to look out for, or improvements to do during the job, and how much of a difference they make?
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After a replacement + repaste it shouldn't throttle anymore.legend4life and etern4l like this. -
Thank you. Hitting 101C on full CPU load at 4.0ghz. Cores 0, 2, 4 overheating, Cores 1, 3, 5 upto 15C lower. Also have a severe intermittent stutter where the system freezes for a moment then returns.
Is it advised to replace/fit thermal pads/shims etc as well at the same time?c69k likes this. -
Dell tech is unlikely to do this for you properly. -
Could you please share or direct to any info on how to re-pad properly in terms of fit and measurements etc? Since I have a tech able to come, how would you suggest to handle? Have never done this.
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legend4life likes this.
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Have seen fujipoly and other pads recommended also, any thoughts on others?
Would you suggest letting the tech do the heatsink/fan replacement job with Dell supplied, and my paste, and just trying that first, and if doesn't work, trying the pads myself?
Last edited by a moderator: Jul 9, 2020 -
I understand fujipoly has less desirable mechanical properties (it's less soft, therefore could provide detrimental sink resistance) and would dismiss it on that basis.Last edited: Jul 9, 2020Papusan and legend4life like this. -
https://amp.reddit.com/r/Alienware/comments/cv8fzc/m15_i78750_repaste_before_after/
Basically, remove the heatsink, clean cpou and GPU + heatsink, take a picture of the existing pad layout. Measure all pad pieces, remove, clean up, cut new, replace. If you get the aforementioned sheets you'll have enough to cover, assuming you cut sensibly to leave little scraps. It's mostly 0.5 pads + 2 1.5mm or 1mm strips.
Once you repad, don't apply paste yet, do a fit test. You should see nice and even contact on all pads after dry mounting the sink. Once. Happy apply paste and mount sink. Remember about screw order as per the service manual.
HthPapusan, legend4life and Spartan@HIDevolution like this. -
Any ideas on the momentary system stutter/freezes? -
Sounds bad. Shouldn't happen even out if the box on Dell Toothpaste. Try a clean reinstall, if it doesn't help push for mobo replacement or system exchange. Good old Dell, my mobo was faulty on arrival.
Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2020Papusan, legend4life and Spartan@HIDevolution like this. -
What can you use to practically take 3D measurement of pad sizes and esp thickness?
Thank you. -
Obviously measuring width and height is trivial. I just used a normal ruler, but in all honesty this is not ideal for measuring depth of very thin pads (finger in the air came in handy). I've seen someone recommend calipers, although with this you would have to measure after removal I guess. Dell pads on the R1 were quite hard, but if memory serves kind of glued on, so had to rip/scrub them off. -
So regular ruler can work for the pad depth, of 0.3-0.5mm etc? What do you use to scrub/clean them off? -
Try running it with no undervolt ideally on clean system and drivers. Any freezes or BSODs would most likely be due to mobo (in the BGA laptop sense, i. e. Including GPU).
You would struggle to differentiate between .3 and .5 mm depth using a ruler, however, you can tell. 5 from 1. and 1.5mm, which should be enough. Can use isopropyl alcohol + cotton swabs to clean paste/pads off. I used Noctua wipes to avoid the risk of any cotton fibres getting stuck on surfaces.Last edited: Jul 10, 2020Papusan and legend4life like this. -
I recently got an M15 R2 OLED and it's great but when it turns on or boots up from sleep sometimes a part of the screen errors out. It's generally the same part (top left, a small box pattern) but it's slightly concerning. Sometimes there are some lines across the middle upon boot-up too. Is this normal for OLED displays or is this indicative of a problem or something shorting out? I am within the return window so I could return it or see if they will swap it for me. Anyone have advice?
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I just got my m15 r2 , i7 9750H with rtx 2060 lunar white. does anyone know how to manually fan control? HWINFO doesn't work anymore :/
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Spartan@HIDevolution Company Representative
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drystxx likes this.
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Hello,
I have had my M15 R2 for over 6 months. It runs hotter than I would like while gaming, but I am used to it now.
I usually disable windows update (for allowed 2 months). But last week, 2 months were over and it installed some updates while restarting. On my next gaming session, the laptop crashed to a sky blue BSOD. Since then, I have been unable to completely recover my Laptop. I have tried many many times. The hardware diagnostics is clean and everything passes.
Clean installation of windows goes fine, but the moment I get to NVIDIA driver, whole laptop just freezes and starts running hot.
And on hard reset, it does not boot up. I have to boot into Revovery->Troubleshooting and do System Restore to get the Laptop up and running.
I have tried all multiple ways of installing NVIDIA Driver - Dell provided drivers, from GeForce Experience and using Windows Update as well. All the times, my laptop freezes halfway through installation and I have to repeat the above hard reset, system restore to use the laptop.
Any suggestions, what could be wrong with my System ? -
Normimb likes this.
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I already replaced the thermal pads with k5 pro viscous thermal paste for thermal pad, repasted gpu with kryonaut, cpu with conductonaut. Undervolted core at -125v and cache at -90v. i get max gpu temp of 80 degrees and 85 degrees while playing Division 2 at max full performance and max fan speed.
my only issue is the keyboard area and the rest of the top case is too hot too touch while on full load gaming. it's too uncomfortable while playing. is this normal? -
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The main problem with alienwares is the inconsistent heatsink quality which is hopefully fixed with the recently released M15/17 R3 series. And even with a good heatsink its just average.
The new M15 R3 looks promising though
https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-...iew-Vapor-Chamber-Saves-The-Day.483238.0.html -
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Is there a way to set CPU Turbo to 3.5ghz rather than 4.0? Or do I just need to set an OC profile while gaming?
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seanwee likes this.
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Hey guys
I have an m17 R2, with i7 9750H and 2070MQ. I was experiencing this weird lag when just using windows regularly. First off, I just want to say thermals are fine, and benchmarks are in line. so its not a hardware issue, probably software related.
I reset it to Alienware factory image, and I still had the lag even after all the updates were done after. It tends to happen most of the time when I'm doing a particular task and then quickly click start, it takes 2-3 seconds to snap out of it. it does happen with other things such as editing a document and clicking something. I tried uninstalling Support Assist ( As I know from the past it utilizes the CPU too much on my AW18.) I tried different things, like disabling tobii eye tracking. but still nothing. It doesn't happen all the time, but some times, and it just drives me crazy lol
I have tried using balanced, and high performance, both do the same. I tried setting a more active fan curve, that snaps in faster than the balanced mode.
Help would greatly be appreciated. -
Spartan@HIDevolution Company Representative
1) Disable the Program Compatibility Assistant service from services.msc
If you have Windows 10 Pro, you can also disable it from the Group Policy Editor:
Computer Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components > Application Compatibility > Turn off program compatibility assistant
2) Ensure you have all the Windows updates and latest drivers
Finally? what AntiVirus are you using? I hope it's not Windows Defender -
I have Windows 10 Home,
I disabled it, (hoping thats what it is). It was set to manual btw.
As for drivers and updates, everything is up to date. I had just gone back to the factory image, trying to figure this thing out. and just ran the alienware update thing to grab all drivers etc. so it should be up to date. (did this 2-3 days ago) same with windows update. everything is up to date.
As for Antivirus, I have not installed any programs yet, so none., literally on factory image since 2-3 days, and have not been using it as much till I figure out what the issue is. I have been using my AW18 in the meantime.
Now that I look at it, Windows Security is running down -_- Is that a known culprit for this? -
Spartan@HIDevolution Company Representative
You can't disable any of them, they are all protected. In order to disable them, Windows Defender must be completely disabled from with in itself (as in all the switch toggles in the program) followed by immediately disabling it from Group Policy Editor so it doesn't re-enable itself then reboot.
Now you can use this reg file to disable the services then reboot:
Enable-Disable Windows Defender
Double click on Disable Microsoft Malicious Software Removal Tool.reg and Disable Windows Defender.reg
RebootVasudev likes this. -
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So, I ran latency mon, and this is what I got.
https://prnt.sc/und2gp
https://prnt.sc/und2or
https://prnt.sc/und6xh
Any help would be appreciated, as I have not used this software before.
Update:
I just got a notification of new driver updates issued in 2 past days.
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-us/drivers/DriversDetails?driverId=562FN
Seems fairly inline with what I'm experiencing. Hoping this solves it.
Update 2:
Issue is still presentLast edited: Sep 24, 2020 -
Did a bios update and undervolting has been locked.
Also all multipliers for the core clock became x45. So even on 6 cores. (have the i7-9750H)
But of course it can barely sustain those clocks, while I did thermally throttle with the undervolt of -135mv from time to time.
This is really annoying.Normimb likes this. -
Alright so I'm using bios 1.3.1 on my m15 r2 with an i7 9750H. I scrolled through every page in this thread and couldn't find info about whether upgrading to the latest bios will affect my ability to keep my undervolt in throttle stop. Can someone deny or confirm my suspicion? I believe this was something associated with intel security vulnerabilities and plundervolt?
I'm currently on -145.5 mv offset on the core/cache and peak at 60c under full load. I'm happy with my thermals, but I wouldn't mind updating the bios if I'm able to maintain this type of performance.Last edited: Sep 28, 2020 -
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Can anyone remind me (if even possible) how I can downgrade a mandatory bios update?
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https://www.dell.com/community/Alie...PGRADE-YOUR-BIOS-TO-1-5-2-IF-YOU/td-p/7633928Normimb, Papusan, QUICKSORT and 1 other person like this. -
My m15 r2 woke from sleep with the lid closed when it developed a low battery. Does anyone know how to prevent this? I'd rather have the battery die and lose data than it turn on when in sleep mode with the lid closed.
etern4l likes this. -
So after the fiasco, of when support tried to replace my heathsink due to the thermal issues I had on my m15 r2, And sicne I had 1 and a half month left for my premium support and accidental damage support, I thought I'd give repasting a chance.
I did a repaste using Kryonaut. It was successful. My CPU temps didn't go over 95 degrees, and My GPu didn't even reach 60 after my first couple cinebenches and time spy runs:
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/51513408? (have a 400-500 higher score compared to before the repaste)
HOWEVER, I manage to break something unfortunately. I made a small mistake, and manage to damage 2 pins on the bridge that connects the IO board on the left side (ethernet, usb Headphonejack) with the motherboard (see image below).
This caused the USB on the left side to no longer work. Not a huge deal, as I still have my thunderbolt and 2 other usb ports to work with. But I want to fix this of course. And am planning to re-order this. But on saturday I couldn't order one, I had to wait till monday support said.
You guys have any idea price wise, how much this will cost me?
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Just a little rant, I purchased a m17 r1 last December and immediately noticed it was extremely loud and very hot 100c. So called Dell and of course they wanted to run remote diagnostic and said it was with in limits. Well life happens so wasn't able to call them back until September of course now its definitely bad bad but refuse to exchange because more than 30 days had past. Dell didn't have the motherboard to replace so they offer exchange a m17 r2 so I agree. Computer shows up and I notice its dinged and coating is chipped, so I call them and send pictures and I'm told this is exceptable to them and if I wanted it fix they would be happy to quote me a repair price, what . I start it up and it idles at 81c and soon as you run anything, you guessed it 100c + and massive throttling .So another remote diagnostic and of course it's defective hardware, really you sent me another defective computer with the same problem. They offer to fix it, either on-site or send it to them, I told them I want a replacement or a refund, preferably a refund.
Well rant over now I sit and wait for Dell decision fingers crossedetern4l likes this. -
Aroc, etern4l, Papusan and 1 other person like this.
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*OFFICIAL* Alienware m15 R2 / m17 R2 Owner's Lounge
Discussion in '2015+ Alienware 13 / 15 / 17' started by alexnvidia, Jun 30, 2019.