[Liquid Metal Showdown] Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut vs Cool Laboratory Liquid Ultra / Pro

Thank you very much. I'll send him a message.

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Good. He wanted more data on 13 r3, it seems you can provide him with vital data like CPU and GPU Temps and OC performance.

 

actually, i think the difference is shrinked might be due to heat sink capacity.

the transfer between die and heatsink contact has to be good, now if its too good heat quickly flows to heatpipe then to heat spreader, however if fans blowing off the heat isnt fast enough then eventually heatsink gets hotter and hotter too, which it also has a capacity as well that would ultimately reflect back on the temp under-load for long periods of time.

with a giant heatsink like p570wm which is for CPU only and not linked to GPU, you'll see way less problems unless stress all 6-8 cores to 4.3ghz for a long period of time.

 

Hi!
Did anyone repaste Asus G701VIK recently? What is the Best combination for this laptop considering it's heating design?
conductonaut on CPU and kryonaut on GPU or conductonaut on both ?

 

I had never seen this post before, but I did the same thing on both of my laptops and it works extremely well. Brilliant work @tijgert... +5 rep. I will be doing this on all of my systems going forward.

Thank you for placing a link to your post on my YouTube video.

 

Yes, I saw @tijgert doing LM completely a new one method. Not every PC is equally made and thus every idea must be different for each PC. Its best to say "YMMV" with LM repaste and free insurance method.

 

Guys little confused with the inital post, are we saying Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut is the best over Liquid Ultra?

If so would it be worth be upgrading from liquid ultra to Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut?

 

You would not notice any improvement, at the max 1C difference. Traditional Paste to LM drastic difference; LM to LM no difference.

 

thanks, on that basis i wont waste my time !

 

Switch if you have to re-paste for one or another reason

 

Although I wouldn't bother to change to Conductonaut if you already have CLU/CLP, I'd suggest pasting with Conductonaut if you're applying liquid metal for the first time.

I've used both now and Conductonaut was a lot nicer/easier to apply. The cost was slightly higher but the next time I repaste another system, I'll order more Conductonaut. It just seemed to 'bite' onto the metal with less effort and spread with less difficulty and I was done repasting in ten minutes (Including prep work etc...) whereas it would normally take 15-20 mins with CLU/CLP. As I applied the Conductonaut to an E7440 that is used exclusively for travelling and is moved around a great deal, I'll open up the system in two weeks and see if there has been much movement of the Conductonaut LM. Didn't have this issue with CLU/CLP so it shouldn't be an issue but it can't hurt to be thorough.

 

both are good thermal paste.. but from my experience, i rather stay over normal paste like kryonaut, GC extreme, ICD.. why ?? i travel a lot on my motorcycle, bumpy roads, etc.. i had LM spilled twice on motherboard.. even though i had 33+ tape applied on sides.. lucky i removed before it went to the main parts of board.. so if ur travelling a lot.. i dont recomend LM over tradional paste.. one good thing about LM is the way it fills the gap between HS and DIE... which normal paste cant match.. specially on alienware models heatsink..

 

Completely agree with @VICKYGAMEBOY. I can hardly balance myself when the bus gets into a big pothole. I'm not complaining about road quality but this is the best test case I could come up with.

 

Yeah exactly.. as of now i tested three different thermal paste, Kryonaut, GC extreme, and ICD.. to be honest i dont care what people say.. all three are good.. ive tested 3 - 4 times of each thermal paste, seating different heatsinks on same Laptop.. ICD turns out to be best when it comes to expanding and adjusting to the pressure and filling the gap, i need to see the technical specs more.. only problem with ICD is the stracth on die when we remove after sometime.. i tested dot, spread, line method on each thermal paste.. ICD gave me best results.. right now im on GC extreme.. will use it for few days.. and save the result.. i ordered cooler master nano again, ive tested it before.. it gave me good result for the price.. right now its out of stock everywhere.. only in few stores its available.. for around 1.2K original was around 700INR

 

Cooler Master Maker Gel NanoGrease is great alternative to TGK. I got this one for ₹800 though. Don't know why its expensive. There's another version of MakerGel Nano w/o the grey outer box for ₹949.
https://www.amazon.in/Cooler-Master...509900652&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=makergel+nano
UPDATE: The battery went pooof suddenly and Dell agreed to replace it.

 

I ride a motorcycle too (Yamaha R6) and I can empathise with potholes and bad roads! Never had an issue with liquid metal spilling out so far but to each their own.

 

I understand, but im just pointing out the worst case scenario.. R6 coool... i have a ninja and benelli tnt 300 for commuting.. and touring

 

right now its out of stock on mdcomputers, ITDEPOT, that price tag on amazon + import fee rofl, i would rather buy someother item from ebay.uk and wait for 10-15 days.. good to hear that they agreed to replace your battery.. relief.. just do some gaming benchmarks.. run games like mafia 3, crysis 3, etc.. record with shadowplay, use ur NVMe drive.. thats like overall torture to all components, then see ur component temps.. if u can when ur free..

 

Go for Phobya NanoGrease Extreme. More similar to ICD in thickness/viscosity. Probably best option for you without going Liquid metal. I’m quite sure the AW heatsink is the culprit for your spilled out LM. And the modern TRIPOD HS in newest AW models is even worse due less and more uneven pressure on Die.

 

haha, ill try that next.. waiting for new heatsink from dell.. wish i had new models to test out.. uneven pressure is there even on older models.. but somewhat better than New ones.. and what's with dell driver support, Intel ME is so crucial.. Yet on R2 its version 11.0 still... BIOS update could have included lates ME Firmware 11.8.. and simple code to reduce PCH throttle, why can't they even do this small stuffs..

 

Yeah, try Phobya next time.

Dell can’t even fix PCH throttling for latest models. How should they manage to fix it for their EOL models? HeHe
Have you thought about seeing if you can flash ME firmware yourself? Useful info in Win-Raid.com. Maybe post a few q and ask for help there.

Btw. Latest MEI-Only Installer 11.7.0.1043 includes MEI v11.7.0.1040 Driver can be download from Win-raid now. Isn’t on Intel’s official web page.

 

lol i updated all those even before posting.. i mean i check winraid often.. what i meant is 11.8 is officially out.. not the driver.. im talking about firmware.. but the problem is conflict with BIOS. and yes im using latest ME driver... just uselss garbage PCH throttle. 81c on latest BIOS + intel ME 11.8. even with latest TS, after unticking BD proc.. it still triggers.. Welp DELL

 

Definitely check, it does move if not prevented and the laptop is moved around often! Tape alone is not enough

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81C for PCH is no problem. It's not throttling is it?

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81C for PCH is no problem for other OEMs, but for DELL with latest BIOS / drivers, its near trigger range, anywhere between 81C - 86C..

 

tested my new motherboard with stock dell Shin Etzu paste with no mods, stock dell drivers with bios 1.3.10 and Intel ME 11.0.1194 the basic one which comes with most systems, so far temps are good, previous motherboard max turbo voltage 1.245v, this motherboard max 1.190v, GPU came with Samsung Memory, same like before, ASIC quality 74.2%, PCH throttled around 85C like you mentioned @Vasudev , So yeah the oldest firmware got higher Trip point, Newest after 11.6 is worst with 80-82c, i think 11.6 is best i guess, or even 11.0 is fine, but still it does throttle, no VRM issues at all, its just PCH, now ill call them in few days and replace new heatsink, bottom base along with screen, i was thinking to buy new LP156WF7 SPS1 which is 2017 edition with touch and 400nits IPS FHD lanel with 40 PINS.. same dimensions as KFKVO, mounting bracket size same.. 80 Euros, or im thinking to get the 15 R2 QHD Touchscren version with the Bezel, which looks damn cooool.. but its 200 dollars refurbished on Parts people.. i want to try new hackintosh

 

i wish w10 update system was like old 8.1 or windows 7 where you can choose to download what u want.. drivers etc. W10 is more like brute force.. im not sure where they are taking RS4, acrylic, transparency, broken shell design.. even a stardock windows 7 themes looked better back then..

 

Notice me sir? Can I use this kind of sponge?

 

Green part of this foam is too dense and rough, and yellow is too porous. I would choose another one with a uniform texture.

 

How do I prevent the conductonaut LM from shooting out of the syringe? It messed up my Gigabyte laptop because of this and wasted the whole 5 grams. I squeezed it as delicately as I can, but it still splashed all over the mobo. I'm lucky Gigabyte still repaired my laptop for free.

 

Happened to me as well, but thankfully not on the motherboard. I am hoping to have more success on the second try.

 

Really simple mate, just try squirting it into your heatsink first well away from your mobo. I've also learnt to do that the hard way!

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Don't use the plunger at all and just lightly tap the end of the syringe against the die until a tiny blob comes out.

 

I'll try this on my next attempt. Hopefully I get it this time, especially since the warranty is running out.

 

best way is to use the plunger without the syringe on it first and press carefully/slowly (away from system). Then when something comes out, then put the needle back on, then point it away from the computer towards a tile or something easily cleaned, then squeeze it very slowly until a drop appears. Then work from there.

 

Dude! Why haven't I thought of that, that is brilliant! I could've saved my 5 gram tube, and laptop if I thought of doing it this way. I also thought of transfering the contents to a better syringe like something from Coollaboratory, to make it easier to use.

 

OK, well I promised an update ~3 months ago and can report some developments.

The good news: The Cunductonaut did not move at all during this period - absolutely no movement. I dropped the system twice, travelled by motorcycle, bicycle, jogged, hiked and generally threw the system around a lot. I've tested five systems so far and not one of them has experienced issues with the TIM moving. I opened the system three times to check during this time - not a mm of movement. I'm academically curious at this point how the TIM has moved on other systems, providing it was correctly applied (IE, it was worked into the die and heatsink metal and there wasn't an excessive amount of TIM used).

The bad news: the temps started to creep upwards 1 week ago, to the point that I opened the system for a third time and saw that the TIM seemed to have oxidised. The TIM was caked-up on both the heatsink and the CPU dies.

Heatsink - I had to scrub the TIM metal off the heatsink - it came off the die very easily with rubbing alcohol



CPU dies - the TIM had clumped together and was crusty. I suspect that the last drop was too much and moved the heatsink. No overspill on the tape or on the processor though (Beyond a bit of messiness left over from when I applied it)



I'll keep using Conductonaut - the temps make it well worthwhile but the (What appears to be, to my eyes) oxidisation is worth bearing in mind. With this said, I do want to put another nail in the coffin as far as the 'TIM moving off the die' warning goes - still haven't seen this happen myself and the E7440 doesn't have amazing heatsink pressure.

 

Maybe it oxidized because of the recent inspection?

 

Yup inspection is No.1 reason of oxidation today on our bellowed flat earth...
NOT!

 

That might have been a bit of a harsh response, nedooo?

It is a possibility for sure - but I didn't have any oxidisation (I'm no metallurgist but it does appear to be oxidisation) issues when opening systems with CLU/P in the past, which makes me think that this isn't the case. I would expect similar reactions when using Conductonaut. I also had oxidisation issues with another system that had a heatsink with very poor mounting pressure and CLU/P (I don't recall whether it was Ultra or Pro), so it's more a critique of liquid metal TIM in general, IMHO. Well, I reapplied Conductonaut, so I'll update as to how well it has lasted when I next have to open the system - of course, should the TIM oxidise again, this will also be added in a new post to this thread.

 

It was just sarcastic joke sorry, if the subject (heatsink and CPU) were vacuum sealed it would make sense...

 

Hey there, the newer conductonaut comes with a syringe tip that makes it very nice for controlling the amount and also to suck some back into the tube if need be.

Tip: With any tube, use two hands and grip the main plastic part/body along with holding the slider with several fingers to put some tension on it, allowing you to control it. I hope that makes sense. So instead of just using your thumb to press down with one figure, use several fingers to stabilize / control the end part.

 

Thanks for your testimonial. I've been saying this for ages that applying the right amount is key and you've just proven that once again from your real world, "boot camp like condition" scenario. Awesome to see more validation on what is true so thank you.

As for the 'oxidization,' effect that you're seeing, that is due to an accumulation of dust and/or other contaminants that mixed in with the LM. This also means that there could be a gap present from a trauma the laptop received from a fall or something. When this happens the heat plate shifts over the cpu/gpu die and in a way breaks up the proximity area of where the LM would usually stay put. Now when there is a gap present as well with air and the constant wide fluctuation of the temps accumulating with dust, it'll cause the LM to go ...I guess you could say rancid? Thus, increasing the temps like you've experienced.

When you reapply the LM, make sure to clean it very very well...squeaky clean and clean it several times until it is spotless. Even the slightest bit of any contaminants, especially finger oil etc... can have a big effect on the performance of the LM.

Good luck and hope this helps!

 

When you say slider, is that the plunger? So I should hold the body with two hands, while pressing the plunger with several finges?

 

Yes that's what he means

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How is the longevity?

 

Asked Thermal Grizzly about Gallistan and Conductonaut, they answered me the following

 

Seems to make sense with this:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galinstan

although that's not really the full story here that Grizzly is giving:

That being said, there's only a 1C difference between Galinstan and Conductonaut anyway. And having it remain liquid at 36 degrees F on very cold nights (sometimes it gets that cold even in areas that don't snow in winter) can be a very important thing too, more important than an extra 1C or 2C temp drop.

 

Which would absorb and dissipate heat better though?

 

Exactly the same basically, like 1C difference, vs homemade galinstan (made from raw materials and melted manually), and there was only a 1C difference.

Actually:

https://imgur.com/a/T6JlP

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooli...yd_liquid_metal_thermal_paste_and_so_can_you/

Seems like the ambients were different, which means the last row is important. Which is 1C, And that's the homemade stuff.
You can buy 30 grams of galinstan (something some users here on NBR have done already and never looked back):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/323213005662?ViewItem=&item=323213005662