Precision 7530 & Precision 7730 owner's thread

I must be cursed...

NUC drivers do install. But tb18dc firmware upgrade wouldn't work.

Precision 7550 drivers do install. Then I have to disable graphics switching in bios, so that some tb18dc components would eventually get their firmware updated.
At the moment, MST 1 & 2 firmware can't be updated. The process is the considered as failed, and "tb18dc dock EC" is not updated either.
I couldn't find any useful resources for those ones...

But at least i can get c-states enabled with my dock. After 6 long evenings fighting with windows and drivers. Great.
And wow! Higher clocks, lower temps!!

Argh. No. I still loose my input devices after a while. I suppose the relevant component has not been updated. Too bad.

 

———
Last Saturday, I tried to update to 1.17.0 from 1.16.1 and at 89% complete my 7730 shut down with UPS and peripherals remaining powered. Short story, as feared, it’s dead as a door nail. Powering up, no display, but screens connected to the TB18DC repeatedly try to connect. After 4-5 minutes the 7730 powers off.
I called Dell Pro Tech Support and after a few tests to see if the display had died, etc., they’re sending a new motherboard. It was supposed to be put in today but (surprise) it is out of stock and the estimated install date is now October 29.
So, folks, based on your experience should I expect an interminable delay? After all, it is 3 years old and while I have no performance issues, that’s pretty long in the tooth for a laptop.
I’d also like to ask if anyone has experience in getting a complete replacement or upgrade (probably with $$) in a situation like this as I’m also concerned about getting an “older” new motherboard.
Finally, should the motherboard be replaced, I’m worried if the tech will properly repaste the heat sinks. So, would it be a good idea to get some Arctic Silver (or whatever is recommended - as it’s been a while since I’ve done this) and watch the tech while he or she works?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice you can offer!

 

If you're happy with performance, why change?

From my experience they don't use much care to apply thermal paste: they use much thermal paste.
So you'd better do it yourself afterwards. It is not that difficult, and helps to achieve lower temps.

 

(Double post, sorry)

 

If you are comfortable doing the thermal paste yourself, ask the tech to let you do it yourself. Arctic MX-4 is good. There are some other good ones. My experience with a tech was that they globbed way too much paste on, but it will vary from tech to tech.

Regarding the option of a full system replacement, you could totally complain a little and get them to offer you that, given the delay. However, turnaround time for that will probably be even worse. Pretty sure there was a post in the 7X60 thread yesterday or today from a user who is getting a replacement and ETA is like mid January.
[Edit] - Here - http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...0-owners-thread.836381/page-106#post-11123180

All that said. I upgraded my 7530 to BIOS 1.17.0 today and I haven't had any issues. (No dock attached, could that be a factor?)

 

Thanks brazzmonkey and Aaron44126! Your advice is appreciated. I'll get some MX-4 or MX-5 (is MX-5 just an iteration or is it a better choice?) and be ready to paste when the motherboard is replaced. Also, I had no idea the pandemic (or perhaps other factors) caused such an extended ETA for unit replacements. If I can get out of this by the end of the month I'll be happy. I do think if the new motherboard needs its BIOS to be updated, I'll ask the tech to do it. I just hope what when my 7730 died it didn't step too hard on my TB18DC which appeared to be working with 1.16.1.

 

I could not tell, I never noticed much difference from a good thermal paste to another. I use an old MX-2 that still does the job. I think the way it's done is much more important than a supposed higher thermal quality. IMHO a good paste is a matter of proper viscosity, stiction, and ease of use.

 

Running on battery, my laptop's CPUs run at 2'400 MHz max. This is a heavy throttle compared to the 4.6~4.7 GHz I get when running on AC. The system is noticeably slower.
Do you guys experience similar behaviour?

 

Can anybody help me out please.

Is it possible to switch off the power coming out of the TB3 ports when the lid is closed and the laptop enters sleep.

I have an Audient ID4mkII audio interface which remains powered. It is not a true TB3 device, it uses USBC to leverage more power for the headphone amplifier.

All my devices power down on the USB-A ports just fine.

As it stands at the minute, the only way i can get it to power off is to fully shut down the laptop then disconnect the power cord.
I have played around in Device Manager / Power Managment with the Universal Serial Bus Controllers to no avail. It's actually a no-go for me anyways as everthing needs to be 100% on as its an Audio Workstation.

OS is Windows 10 Enterprise 20H2

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated

 

There is an option in the BIOS, I think it might be called "USB PowerShare" or something like that, which you could try turning off if it is on. It's function is to allow your laptop to basically behave as a giant USB battery pack (to use for, say, charging your phone while traveling).