P870DM / Sager Fans (XTU)

I've read about XTU screwing up fans.

Can anyone clarify on this behavior? I've found this out late and the CPU fans don't ramp up as one would expect. GPU fans barely come on until 80 degree's, then they blast away and don't simmer down.

So besides not using XTU. What is the best way to remedy the situation (other than a full format)?

Will uninstalling, formating, then restoring old image from Macrium do the trick?

Thanks in advance lads

 

This might be off topic . But Screw XTU.

I had issues with it messing with my profiles, for others it unlocked the custom curve, which never worked for me.
I just stayed away from XTU after that.

I just use the automatic, which kicks in after 70C (basically never happens for me)
Or the max during benchmarking.

FN+1-4-LYFE.

 

I think @Phoenix is the expert. As long you don't put in a profil or any settings I mean a uninstall should work. A new clean install as you mentioned is best if everything is screwed.

 

This is the doing of XTU, thermal emergency shutdowns as a result of screwed-up FAN tables:

 

It's software writing to the firmware so it does make errors in the firmware possible as a result.

 

Yep XTU sucks lemons..

Do you know of any fixes for this goofed up fan?

 

The damage XTU does to a system can only be fixed by a complete format.

 

only a format bro. no registry cleaner or uninstaller (like Revo Uninstaller) can fix the damage XTU does

 

@Prema @unclewebb

Does XTU write settings to ME or EC?

If that is the case, then a BIOS/NVRAM/EC Cache clear/reset might work.

 

What BS. All just to bump my BCLK to 100.1 because I got OCD.
I can't believe a format and fresh is the only solution.

@bloodhawk no unfortunately CMOS reset doesn't do the trick.

 

Well if you find a solution other than formatting, let me know

 

Unfortunately, I don't have any idea's worth trying. Just can't believe how destructive XTU is.

I'll format and set up dual boot properly when I can.
Has anyone actually done W7 and W10 dual boot in full UEFI?

 

you cannot have W7 installed without enabling CMS, thus, not full UEFI. Also, if you have an NVMe SSD like me, Windows 7 sucks with NVMe SSDs

 

Not just the CMOS. Basically, take the CMOS battery out, unplug power, take system battery out and press the power button a couple of time. Leave system for a few minutes and press power button again and then put everything back together. Obviously it doesnt have to be this drastic, just to a complete power drain and clear.

 

Yeah that's what I was refering to. Sadly it doesn't do the trick bro

 

Windows 7 VGA doesn't play nice in UEFI. You'll generally get a hard lockup during Windows 7 logon. UEFI uses GOP. Now, what you can do is set up partial UEFI mode and run Windows 7 that way with the display mode set to Legacy with the unlocked @Prema BIOS. That works fine for me.

Or, you can run W10 with Legacy mode for video and storage (my preferred way). But, as @Phoenix said, that's not going to work for folks using NVMe drives. That is one reason I chose ordinary M.2 SSD and avoided NVMe for my own machine. It gave me more grief than I wanted to put up with on the Sky X9 review machine... just not worth it to me personally.

Yeah, XTU... what a shame it's such a terrible mess. Seems to have a knack for really tearing things up for me, too. And, that problem seems to be worse with Windows 10 for some reason. It does something to corrupt Windows. It's even worse for me on the P750ZM... it really screws with that machine BAD. If you adjust the BCLK at all, everything turns into a terrible nightmare. It seems fine until you reboot. Or, should I say TRY TO reboot.

 

XTU storing ****, harder than NSA stores our phone calls.

 

<that problem seems to be worse with Windows 10 for some reason.>
What did you expect?
Evga, Xtu and graphics driver mess after Win 10 came out of the closet!! Probably more.

 

Yeah.. i'm going to leave the rubbish alone. Bro, for you W7 install did you need load usb 3.0 drivers onto the usb drive somewhere?

 

USB the Intel USB 3 tool and it will add native USB 3.0 support to your Windows 7 installation USB stick. Really easy to find with a Google search.

Set the BIOS to Windows 8+ even for Windows 7, then you can turn off UEFI on the menu option right below that, or enable both UEFI and CSM, then on the CSM configuration screen choose both Legacy and UEFI, disable Network boot, set Legacy for Video, Legacy for Storage and UEFI for Other devices.

If you get an error during Windows Setup that it cannot be installed on the selected drive, run Diskpart clean, convert MBR. If that still says it cannot be installed, unplug the USB flash drive for a few seconds. Plug it back in and wait a couple of seconds, then try again. It almost always clears that error for me on the second try after removing and reinserting the USB flash drive.

 

The same method applies to any new install of Win 7 on a modern SSD:

How to install Windows 7 on Samsung 950 PRO

Note: you have to do the integration on a Windows 7 machine or else the mounting doesn't ever finish for some reason if you were on any newer OS.

I did it using a Windows 7 install and mounted the USB Drive on a Virtual Machine

 

It worked for me, but it took like 2 hours to finish on a Windows 10 installation. The next time I did it on a Windows 7 installation and it took like maybe 15 minutes tops.

 

or better yet, it's on our forums (link above)

 

you have patience that I don't I gave up on it within the first few minutes of not seeing the progress move in the log at the bottom of the integrator app.

 

Lol, took me 10 mins to do it using command prompt.

 

To be honest, I don't have a claim to that virtue. I am extremely impatient and that causes some problems for me and those closest to me sometimes. But, I wanted to see what would happen and did something else on another computer just for giggles to see how long it would take.

I'm sure Windows 10 is saying, " wait, no... you can't do this... please, stop, don't" the whole time, LOL.

 

I did it for my wife's computer and once it took almost like half a day (seemed that way at least). Eventually that computer went back to 7 (shortly after 10 came out). Ended up doing it a couple months ago, and cleaning up files and uninstalling junk made it go significantly faster the second time around.

 

Let me share this secret. You can use the boot.wim and setup.exe from the Windows 10 ISO overwritten on a Windows 7 install USB or ISO to easily get Windows 7 installed without having to worry about USB3.0 drivers. If you are installing to an NVMe drive load the driver for it during setup. Not sure what problems @Phoenix has with NVMe and Windows 7, but my 950 Pros are working fine as boot drives in my desktop and laptop with proper IOPS and bandwidth. Anyways, just make sure if you are booting with UEFI to have CSM for video enabled, everything else can use the UEFI driver. After install just pop in a SATA drive with the drivers and install them from there (since you still won't have USB)

Edit: fixed wim file name.

 

The only CMS setting that needs to be on legacy is video. The rest can be set to UEFI without an issue. M$ refused to support UEFI video in a Win 7 upgrade to force a transition to 8 and 8.1. It is horseshit, but they don't tell you that you can set the rest to UEFI trying to make it seem any benefit of it is lost if you don't upgrade. Marketing BS.

 

Here's something I found interesting. After Windows 7 has actually been installed along with the drivers you can actually switch Video to UEFI and it will boot fine.

 

Until you install SP1. At that point it stopped booting for me...

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Was it a BSOD?

 

I don't think I mentioned BSOD here in this situation, it was a hang. BSOD= blue screen of death...

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Switch your storage over to Legacy and try. As long as you don't have a nvme it should work for both boots now.

 

So either one out the other legacy. I'll give it a try sometime... How does that effect storage speeds? Also, any benefit to video benches?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Before I installed my NVME I had everything toggled to UEFI except Storage. Both were able to boot quickly as normal.
No real benefit of doing this other that bypassing a few POST screens at the beginning and gaining a nicer cleaner looking startup.
I was surprised this worked.

 

I kinda seemed to have figure it out! (?)

1)Uninstall CLEVO CC, reboot, then reinstall, reboot after.
2)Then remove C:\Program Files (x86)\Intel\Intel(R) Extreme Tuning Utility/***everything inside*** (you might get file used by program, go to service looks for XTU and stop it, look in details (task manager) and end task anything related to intel)
Note: Clevo CC installs headless XTU backend thats why we are removing it.
3)Shutdown
4)Reset BIOS to defaults by holding FN + D + POWER for 3 seconds
5)boot into windows normally, open Control Center, don't click *anything* except Custom in fan section of "System Program"
6)Reboot again.
7)Done! Should you ever overclock CPU, use Throttlestop, and Afterburner/inspector for GPU.
Hope it helps.

Updates:
1) so far this worked with someone aswell (pm) added "Reboot again" after suggestion, as it worked on 2nd reboot. Tho the 2nd gpu fan runs at different speed (slower) which might be an issue for sli users or dual exhaust h.s. single gpu setups.
2) worked after uninstalling Intel xtu (not cc) aswell without reformatting.

 

Is it safe to use Fn+1 after these steps or would that ruin this process?

 

Before installing CCC you can edit the oem.ini file and set the XTUFantable to 0. I did this with CCC v.98 and it did not install XTU

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...s-owners-lounge.795090/page-417#post-10389172