P770ZM / P750ZM OVERCLOCK, UNDERVOLT, AND MODS SECTION!!!!

Welcome one and all owners!!!

Read ALL Rules Before Posting!!!!

I am setting this up for a consolidated manual section for knowledge on how to replicate the results of users in both the P750ZM Batman (which is really Robin to the...) thread (available at http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p75xzm-batman-sager-np9752-owner´s-lounge-welcome-to-the-batcave.767105/ ) and the P770ZM thread (available at http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p770zm-sager-np9772-owners-lounge.768770/ ).

I ask that questions be presented in both of these forums to leave a clean guide thread (and prevent the pages upon pages to search through for finding an answer).

All contributors can be PM'ed and are constantly active in the two threads listed. If you have a mod, please complete the mod, have photos if possible (or needed), and revise it into a final product where little, if any, editing is required.
So far, the first posts will have:
CPU OC - By AJC9988
GPU OC - By TBD (maybe Jaybee)
RAM OC - By TBD
Mount/Brace Spacer mod - By AJC (with contributing suggestions from Meaker)
Replace Spring-Loaded Screws with Regular Screws - By WJamesLord

Possible future instructions:
Maximizing SSD speeds (with possible raid sections, etc.)
Display Mods (making screens work for you) - This could include OC displays, how to swap out displays, how to find compatible displays, making different bezels, etc. from other clevos work with your model, etc.

Basically any mod you create, we should consolidate here.

Also, give the respective authors credit for their works and mods. I reserved the first posts, but not all posts will be written by me. Please be aware and give credit where credit is due.

ALL QUESTIONS AND TROUBLESHOOTING OF MODS SHOULD BE DONE IN THE OTHER THREADS LISTED ABOVE TO PREVENT A LONG FORUM THAT IS UNWIELDY FOR NEW USERS.

 

CPU OC - By AJC
Reserved

 

GPU OC - By TBD
Reserved

 

RAM OC - by TBD
Reserved

 

Mount/Brace Spacer mod - By AJC (with contributing suggestions from Meaker)
Reserved

How to level heatsink mounts in a P770ZM

1) Remove motherboard from the chassis

2) Remove CPU retention bracket

a. Remove the two screws by the hinge of the bracket

b. Remove the screw that the retention bracket slides under when clamping the CPU


c. Be aware that the mount/brace that the retention bracket screwed into will now be loose



3) Examine the brace/mount released.

a. Verify washers and hardware spacers on the mounting arms of the brace




4) If leveling is needed, add non-metallic, non-corrosive plastic or rubber washers that are non or low compressing washers onto the mounting arms to add additional space between the mount/brace and the underside of the motherboard.

Note – this allows for the mounting arms to be positioned lower relative to the heatsink, thereby pulling the heatsink closer to the motherboard and making better contact between the CPU and the heatsink

5) To add an even amount of space amongst all mounting arms, add a sheet rather than washers for spacing. This will distribute the weight over the entire surface area and prevent additional stress at the holes for the mounting arms in the PCB.

Note – If leveling was done for the arms, the order should be Mount/Brace àWasher à Sheet of non-conductive Spacer Material àMotherboard

Note – The washer will still cause strain on the hole in the PCB board, but if it is necessary to level the arms, theoretically it will not be too great. The sheet used may help to spread the force from the area of contact.

6) Reattach the CPU retention bracket to the mount/brace

7) Test the contact between the CPU and the Heatsink

8) Depending on contact:

a. If good contact is made, re-install motherboard into the chassis and re-assemble the machine.

b. If good contact is not present, repeat 2-8 until contact is tight (but not overly tight causing motherboard warping) between the CPU and heatsink.

9) Enjoy better cooling made possible by simple common sense.

This procedure developed by reviewing images found in the service manual on pages 1-8 and 1-9 in conjunction with a short visual inspection of the CPU retention bracket while repasting TIM. I have not seen what components lie under the black brace that the heatsink mounts are attached to, and what may be nearby on the bottom side of the board, so do so at your own risk. This will void your warranty most likely.

 

Replace Spring-Loaded Screws with Regular Screws - By @WJamesLord
Reserved

Replace Spring-Loaded Screws with Regular Screws
The design of the heat sink unit does not guarantee that the four corners on the sink are flush with the CPU. This results in poor heat removal. In an attempt to resolve this issue, I replaced the spring-loaded screws with regular screws. The steps to perform this mod follow:

First, you must find four screws with threads identical to the spring-loaded screws used on the CPU heat sink. The screws can be a little longer, but they must fit snuggly into the mounting posts. However, the screws should not require excess force to tighten, as you don't want to strip the mounting post threads. The screws should also not be too long, as you will not be able to aptly tighten the screws to make the heat sink flush with the CPU.

Once you are sure that you have four screws with matching threads, you need to remove the spring-loaded screws from the CPU heat sink. Each screw is held to the heat sink with a retaining ring, as shown below. The retaining ring has four tabs that effectively snap it unto the screw. Using a small flat head screw driver or any similar thin tool, you must gently pry the ring off each screw, which will release the screw.

After all four spring-loaded screws are removed, replace the heat sink unit and fasten the CPU heat sink with the four regular screws. I suggest applying pressure to the center of the heat sink with a finger and tighten each screw until it starts to feel snug. Then alternately tighten each screw a little to apply even pressure to each corner. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN! You do not want to put too much pressure on the circuit board. A picture of the end result is shown below.

My results of this mod were very good. For Fire Strike, my max CPU temps dropped from 81-82C to 75-76C (automatic fans), and because the CPU shares a couple heat pipes with the GPU, my GPU temp also dropped about 3C.

As with any mod, you assume the risks. Good luck!

 

subscribed

 

Yeah I'll be watching the fun this spawns

 

Good idea for a thread. It is tough to track down mods in the current 750/770 threads, as there are so many posts.

I will throw in my 2 cents for overclocking DDR3s...

I am using Samsung 4 GB sticks, which are known for tight timings at high rates. The part number I see thrown around is M471B5273DH0, but I have a different part number on my sticks, which still overclock quite well. Oddly, the Samsung DDR3s are only rated for 1600 MHz or 1866 MHz. While I certainly can't guarantee your results, many people report obtaining much higher stable numbers.

First off, I was able to obtain stability at 2400 MHz with 13,13,13 timings, but I would not recommend running at those settings. To obtain stability, I had to run the Ring/Processor Cache at stock voltage. I suspect this is more a motherboard design issue rather than a DDR issue. By simply lowering the DDRs to 2133 MHz, I was able to undervolt the Ring/Cache by a 140 mV offset. My timings at 2133 MHz were also much tighter: 10,10,10. While generally bandwidth is king, I personally will trade the bandwidth increase for lower voltage/cooler temps and tighter timings.

To test memory overclock stability, I highly recommend installing the Prema BIOS Mod. With this BIOS mod, you can change your memory timings without using XTU under Windows and without suffering from Blue Screens of Death. Enter the BIOS (hold F2 during startup), and with the default RAM settings, increase the RAM multiplier to the next dropdown option and increase the CL, tRCD, and tRP settings by 1. As a generally rule, set the tRAS to the total of the CL, tRCD, and tRP values. Then, with a bootable USB containing MemTest86 inserted, change the default boot drive under the BIOS to the USB. Now save the BIOS and restart. If the RAM settings are too aggressive, you laptop will hang for a minute or two before restarting with the default RAM settings. At this point, you'll need to re-enter the BIOS and reduce the RAM overclock.

Once you see the MemTest86 option menu, select the default test (option 1), and let it run for about 10 minutes or until you see a memory error. If an error is encountered, press ESC to restart and then enter your BIOS configuration to lower the RAM settings. If you don't get any errors after ten minutes, restart, bump your RAM settings, and repeat.

Once you have established a safe maximum DDR3 rate, you can then gradually lower the CL, tRCD, tRP, and tRAS values. With each decrease, re-run MemTest86. Once you have established the tightest timings, boot to Windows and run your favorite stress tools (Prime 95, AIDA, etc.). It is possible that your stress tests may reveal issues that will require further RAM tweaks, but this approach should at least get you close.

Happy RAM overclocking!

 

@tough to look through all the posts: thats why there is an OP in the batcave just that lots of people seem to overlook it in any case, ill be adding this thread to the batcave OP soon

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

@ajc9988 , Will you be posting these tutorials one by one or all at once?

 

can somebody see @ which Clock speed and Undervolt this will be stable ...with no risk
some people saying 3.5 GHZ is the most suitable with 71-73 C max in stress
i think achieving that by now....will be more comfortable than 4GHZ or more with jumping Temp

 

well its impossible to say such a thing for sure, it all depends on your setup.

the cpu model / the thermal paste / max fans or auto fans / the kind of stress test used / ambient temperatures / dustiness of environment and cleanliness of heatsink fins and fan blades / your regular usage scenarios / etc...

a pretty safe bet is 4ghz with -50mV on the core voltage, thats pretty much doable on almost all machines/cpus with safe temps across a lot of scenarios.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

I get that max fans on 4.4 easily. I also have done more work than most to get that. So jaybee83 is right. If you're unwilling to do mods, or even change thermal paste, use xtu to find the right multiplier and under volt for you. There are too many variables to make that statement. If you are unwilling to learn, this may just not be for you. If you are willing to learn, start on the OP of the P750ZM page. If you need further info, pm me and I'll help. Otherwise, I've got nothing for you.

@jaybee83, thinking of fujipoly on the pch in the future. If I do that, then I'll take pics to describe the backplate mod. If the edge doesn't allow for even pressure, I may just do it anyways (have Fuji pressure film coming, which means I'll detail my optimal pressure with the screw mod and, if needed, backplate and screw mod). Going to do this right and shoot for 4.5 in low 70s on thermal grizzly kryonaught (bought the 11 gram syringe). If amazing contact, I may try clu for a bit more... Talk about a laptop most would pay a mint for!!!

 

pressure film, yum. should do for some nice detailed results pch cooling is always nice, i wonder why the OEMs/ODMs always leave that to the user to take care of...

oh nice, u got kryonaut! please report back with some comparative data on it, already got it on my wishlist as well (together with three more tubes of CLU *lol*)

backplate mod should be quite the hassle / project to realize....good luck with that and make sure to document everything with pics, would be great to check that out

 

Prema already said that Clevo started pch heat sinking. But, it is under the keyboard. To get to it, you have to remove the top chassis as if replacing the motherboard. It may currently be done, but we know it buys a few degrees going to better thermal pads. Meanwhile, since you've gone that far, what is the extra steps of pulling the mb, unscrewing the retention bracket, and putting non conductive materials like silicon on the arms to get the angle right, then adjusting again for heatsink and screw pressure. Close it back up and check temps.... Pch is under the metal piece between the keyboard ribbon connectors and ram slots...

 

Ah lol.... I do 4.3/4.4GHz easily with massive undervolt ...

Can even do 4.5GHz... You guys need to get new 4790Ks and new heatsinks ... Temps are held in check too...

 

What are your temps and mods? 4.5 in low to mid 70s?

Edit: my cpu hates 4.8, can't get stable there (not heat issue)... But I've done mods and have done other heatsinks...

 

u did notice that ive already posted benches with 4.8 ghz right? thats not the point though, were trying to get anything above 4.3/4.4 ghz tempstable for auto fans under extreme conditions, thus usable for everyday scenarios.
4.5ghz+ with max fans in xtu or games is easy-peasy

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