*** Official Clevo W230SS/Sager NP7338 Owner's Lounge ***

I have killed three HDD's in previous laptops. Two where older ones without the software that parks the heads of the HDD when it detects movement. The first one I was using my laptop as a GPS in my truck and it died while I was going over an abnormally rough section of road. The second was knocked off a coffee table while running with lid open. The third was on my dv6t that has the software...but much to my dismay, I set it on my bed with the comforter pulled back and directly underneath where I sat my laptop there was a decently sized neodymium magnet I was playing with earlier that day...needless to say it would not reboot after the magnetic attack. New SSD's are good at not only blistering speed, but impervious to all but the worst physical impacts and magnetic sensitivity.

 

I don't have my laptop setup to sleep when I shut the lid. I don't ever use the sleep mode or hibernation. The reason is the software I use doesn't like those modes.

Sent with love from my Galaxy S4

 

I have another question while I'm waiting for Mythlogic to build this awesome laptop:

Is it possible to disable UEFI completely in the bios and go back to legacy boot?

It's not too much of an issue but it would make migrating my current OS a little easier.

 

I'm thinking about getting this laptop but I have a question about the processor..
What's the purpose of getting an even more powerful processor these days? In terms of gaming, will the "lower end" i7-4700MQ hold back the gtx860m? I don't think it will but correct me if I'm wrong
Also, Eurocom offers an i5, will that boost battery life? It runs at 37W vs the 47W/57W i7 options. When comparing CPUs for battery life, that IS what you compare right? I currently have an i5-3210m and I have No problems with it whatsoever
Thabks for anyone who can enlighten me

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You can turn off UEFI in BIOS but it will require a clean Windows installation since you can't just switch from UEFI to non-UEFI.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sag...m-review-using-sager-np7330-clevo-w230st.html

I'll probably throw that same CPU in my W230SS and test with more current games with the 860m.

 

There is an i7 that runs at 37W, and that's the 4702MQ.

I haven't heard anyone complain about the i5, but I'll let someone with more experience weigh in on that - you do get only half the cache of the i7.

 

Thank you!

I am running linux, so hopefully I'll be able to just swap in my current hard drive, since I can use legacy boot that means I don't need to repartition my drive to GPT which saves me a little headache.

(also, sorry for the double post, I'm not sure how to delete this and merge it with my post above.)

 

Mine seemed a little off when I first got it too - crystal sharp images and text, but colors a little off.. so.. go to Control Panel > Color Management > Advanced tab and click on 'Calibrate Display' and run thru the routine from there. Was an improvement for me certainly.

 

LOL (and yes I know what RAID 5 is)

 

You will probably want to hold it parallel then. A little bit of vibration is OK, but changing the axis rapidly is not good for the disk.

For record, my 1TB 7200rpm Hitachi that shipped with the laptop does this as well. My roommates Macbook does this as well, but my friend's Asus with a 5400rpm disk does not make much noise if you change the axis. I think the noise is either the sound of the bearing, or the sound of the platters and is going to be inherent to all spinning disks

Mine sounds like a meatgrinder when I do it, so I decided to put the laptop to sleep before moving it. I am planning on saving up for one of those 1TB SSD's in the future, so hopefully it will just last until then
It is my secondary drive, so thankfully the head is parked most of the time, but I would also love to simply click a button/run a script to spindown the drive at will.

 

Please do, I'm waiting for PCSpecialist to drop the price of the 860m (they said it should fall in line with the 765m at around the end of may) then i'll buy it. The extra £100 isn't quite worth it in my eyes. I'll be putting the i5-4210m (same as 4200m with a 100mhz clock increase) inside it.

 

Yup, planning to do the same or maybe the 15" when PCS eventually sell that version with the 860M

 

Considering that I can drop my CPU clocks down to 2.4ghz without affecting FPS in BF4 (stock GPU clock speeds), you should be just fine with an i5 dual-core at full speeds. I would really suggest getting a quad-core though as the heat is really damn good if you undervolt/underclock it a little bit, and you have the benefit of a full 2 extra cores.

Here are my gaming temps when underclocked and undervolted slightly

XTU UV + UC 2.4GHZ
CPU CORE - 67-64-65-65
CPU Package - 67*C
GPU - 63*C

Laptop sitting on a desk, slightly elevated for airflow but no cooling pad or anything (and stock thermal paste as well). These are peak/MAX temps as well, with the averages being 2-4*C lower.

 

I'm hoping that the 4200m can save some battery since it's 37W opposed to 47W, unless you're using the 4702qm which is also 37W
But I'm curious to see if the 4200m and the 4702qm would see the same amount of battery saved and same lowered temperatures compared to their 47W counterparts

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37W and 47W are the maximum power ratings, this rating has nothing to do with general task power usage.

 

So if you were to do a light usage battery life test for both of them, there shouldn't be a difference in your results since neither of them are being used at maximum capacity?

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Yes the Quad core is able to entirely shut off unused cores. The remaining cores can still access the full cache however meaning in some cases they can be more power efficient due to less memory access.

 

Just use the Mod BIOS to disable cores or set desired TDP targets.
Then under-volt the whole thing and you can essentially make any chip out of a mid-range Quadcore.
Heck, you can make a single core 5W Chip out of a Quadcore XM Chip by the push a few buttons...

What you can't do is add 2 cores that you don't have...

 

Haha alright thanks for the clear up guys
So I'm going to university next year and my goal is to have the best battery life possible.. is there certain configurations I should aim for or avoid for this? Originally I was going to get the 4200m due to it's 37W tdp, but now it sounds like it wont make a difference whatsoever
I've also been considering the 1800p screen since I'll be purchasing from Eurocom (repping Canada!), would that many more pixels kill the battery a lot more? And why do people always mention playing at 900p if they had this screen instead of 1080p? Obviously lower res would offer higher framerates, but is it also since it's exactly two times less the amount of pixels, the scaling would be smoother compared to scaling to 1080p?
thanks

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Just so you know the biggest power drain is the screen. The CPU under light load doesn't draw much more than a couple of watts.

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First post here!
I was searching for opinions on this laptop when I found this thread. This laptop is almost perfect for me, but I wouldn't like to spend >1000€ on a blast furnace
So I was thinking: how much an i7-4712MQ (TDP 37W) will make this laptop cooler than the 47W i7 options available? I wouldn't mind undervolting too (I actually do it on my current good ol'laptop using RMClock).

 

I need to replace the wireless card in the laptop, but the head of one of the screws is stripped, does anyone have any tips for getting it out? It is literally almost round at this point.

 

With these small machine screws tha are countersunk your options that leave everything unblemished are pretty much limited to a screw-out type tool that cuts into the head of the screw and backs it out. If you have a steady hand and a dentist's bit for your dremel you could try cutting a slot in the head and use a slot blade driver but you're likely to mar the plastic. The other way is to drill the head off the screw and leave the threaded part in the hole.

 

More a Windows 8.1 question, but anyone know how you go about disabling the "swipe from left edge of touch pad to bring up the charms menu" on these laptops? The Synaptics menus have a lot of options, but apparently none that seem to disable this. I'm not sure why this is a default action on the Synaptics drivers, as the only thing it seems to accomplish is accidentally bringing up the Start Menu.

Uninstalling the drivers doesn't seem like much of an option either, since the generic Windows drivers don't seem to support scrolling, which makes the touchpad all but useless at that point.

If anyone's figured out how to disable this annoying touchpad "feature", I'd be much obliged.

 

On Edit:
Misread JoeGamer's question, my reply did not apply

 

You can always underclock and undervolt the 47W TDP CPU's if desired, but you can't clock the 4712MQ higher. I run my 4810MQ at 3.2GHz with 3&4 cores, use -60mV undervolt, and peak temps with BF4 is < 80C. But if I want to encode, I crank it up to 4.0GHz, and benefit from the faster clocks. Plus the 3712MQ doesn't run much cooler than the 47W ones, maybe a few deg C at best.

 

I think that's more of a windows setting. I think I did some of the stuff in this article to disable it on a family member's laptop: How To Disable Charms Bar In Windows 8.1 - Tech Attend I did a few things to make it so the charms bar only comes up with the shortcut keys between stardock/windows/registry options. Really had to beat that thing down to get it to stop completely with the swipes.

 

The 1800p is crap, it's the Samsung display that uses rgbw pixel layout to achieve "1800p" but isn't actually it. Combine it with the awful software support for XHDPI displays, and it isn't worth it at all. 900p is used because it offers the best scaling. One pixel in 900p is 4 pixels in 1800p. There's no distortion at all, which you would notice at other resolutions. The 1800p display will also use more power to run. Both from the display itself, and from the GPU having a lot of extra work to do, even with casual desktop use.

 

Well, it finally happened. I left my laptop charger at my office (doh!!)

In my rage, I decided to buy another AC adapter without really making sure it was the right one. Fingers crossed, because this one is supposed to be an OEM Delta unit which would be a bargain at $35, and listed as brand new to boot.

AC Adapter for MSI Delta ADP 120MH D ADP 120MHD Laptop Charger Power AC32 | eBay

Anyone know a good cheap source for quality power supplies? If I can find more around the same price, I would buy one for my office and truck just to never have to remember to pack it with me (I have Lenovo adapters all over the damn place for that reason).

 

I am using this in my office:

 

If it's truly a Delta (not a knock-off with a label to make it look like one) then that looks perfect. Stock one is 19.5V and would use 19.5V if at all possible. Systems can become fickle with even a slight change in voltage.

 

I am using a 19v since 1y with my W230ST and a 19.5v with my P1xxHM/EM (they are 19v stock) no problems...Clevo even offers 19v and 19.5v stock PSUs for identical machines of their entire SLI line-up.

 

+/- 0.5v is usually within spec.

 

Well after hunting for a nice, sleek and thin (ish) gaming laptop ive come to the conclusion on either the W230SS or the gigabyte p35w v2. I love the SS but do like the look of the p35w, problem is I cant for the life of me find one in the UK for sale and I dont want to import one from the US becuase the cost just gets silly, anyway my question is does anyone have any idea where they'd be for sale in the UK? Or if they're even released here yet. If not its going to be a SS.

 

Not sure if it's in the UK, but if you like the w230ss but like the look of the p35w, perhaps you could try looking for the p34g v2. Same gpu as the w230ss, but more similar of a look to the p35w compared to the w230ss

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

Yeah I thought about the p34g, but the p35w has the 870m which id prefer as itll be replacing my desktop, plus I cant seem to find any of the new generation of gigabyte laptops here! Going to have to emagrate.

 

I've had my xmg p304 for about a week now and I've noticed something odd about the screen and the frame(?).
In certain black backgrounds (dark souls2 start screen for example) there is a blue smudge. (Highlighted in red in the imgur gallery). Its barely visible on the image and it was very difficult to get a picture of it.
Also there's a small gap between the frame and the screen on the bottom edges. If you look down at the screen from an angle you see light coming from the lcd.
I've uploaded a few pictures to illustrate the issues. xmg13-screen - Imgur

 

We did benching in W230SS & p34g v2 for my overclock vBIOS Mod and I can already tell you that even with both using a Maxwell GTX860M you won't see the same performance from the Gigabyte and the Clevo.

The reason being the insufficient cooling of the Gigabyte system. Running the same OC clocks and voltage the GB ran at 90c+ while the Clevo was at a mere 60c+. Yes that's right about 30c cooler...

 

What about the p35w v2? I assume the cooling system is the same as the p34? Will I not see the benefit of the 870m over the 860m due to the heat being produced?

 

P35 v2 uses a Kepler GPU, which is much slower OCed than its Maxwell counterpart.

The Gigabyte and MSI had worse cooling compared to the Asus and Clevo Maxwell systems.

 

Ah, scrap the gigabyte then! Ill take a look at some asus sytems but it looks like itll be the SS or maybe even the 350SS.

 

Well the Asus, which had compatible cooling to this 13inch Clevo, has 17inch...

 

Can you "hammer" a flat head in the screw head and see if you can get it loose? I was able to do that with my mSATA screws before it got too bad. If you can loosen it up, you might be able to turn it out with some pliers.

Did you get it loose at all? You might be able to try the "solder welding" method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jliBOo10bA

 

God this is a predicament... looking at the Asus G750JM, it looks beautiful and really nice quality. But its nearly £200 more and i cant find any reviews on it! Help!

 

The asus is entirely different class of machine meant for a different role, you would pick based on what you need.

 

Yeah sorry about that little episode.. the Asus is too big for me, im going for the SS. Now for the spec..

How worth it is the 4810mq over the 4710mq in this machine?

 

Anybody order this from Eurocom and can share their experience with the laptop with a QHD+ screen. Deciding between the panels.

 

It depends on what you are doing with it. If the primary purpose is gaming you will see zero benefit. If you run virtual machines get the 4810MQ as it has features that support VMs better than the 4710MQ.

Sent with love from my Galaxy S4

 

Yea I'd love some input on this too
although from what people have said it doesn't sound like a great option due to the bad scaling.. but I'd love to have such a unique screen since I don't mind uber small text

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My post from a couple pages back.

Unless you have a definite reason for getting such a high resolution display, like needing it for graphics work, I would pass.