*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

I sent Eurocom an email for a quote without a CPU/RAM plus the display cable. I don't feel like the P770DM will benefit me any more than the ZM, Skylake CPUs are the only difference? What LCD cover do I need to buy? It isn't the plastic lid or bezel but the interior metal supports like this, right?

 

The skylake CPU should be the only difference

The LCD cover is the entire part that houses the screen including the hinges. The bottom cover is the whole bottom half that can be removed and the top cover is the top half where the keyboard sits in, etc.

 

Skylake and the Ram DDR4.

will they have options for just a 1080 screen I wonder as part of the thing they crow about for Skylake is the 2k/4k support. Still Skylake performance isn't really impressive.

 

As far as I can tell, here are some of the P7x0DM feature differences:

• Skylake CPU w/ Z170 chipset
  
• DDR 4 (only) - allowing 64MB RAM
• 2 M.2 2280 ports (reportedly *both* PCIe Gen 3 x4 )
• 3 USB 3.0 ports(rather than 4 on P770ZM)
• 1 USB 3.1 port (reportedly this can also double as a Thunderbolt 3 port)

Also note, there is rumor of a P870DM model on the horizon which is similar to the P770DM, but with SLI as well as 2x wired network adapters. See http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...hes-expectations.775918/page-72#post-10080152 for more info.

<edited>Removed DisplayPort ports from list. Thx, Samot.</edited>

 

The ZM models have 2 Dp ports.

The P870DM is no rumor.

 

Guys where can I get the latest drivers for the Batman? Also how to update the BIOS? Is it a one click file or you have to burn files to USB stick to flash etc? Can someone please explain the procedure?

Also is the style note screen indicating the stock clevo BIOS? Just so as I can get the correct boot screen after I flash...

Also I think we should have a driver repository where ppl can upload the latest drivers for users to easily get them.. that way we don't have to look everywhere.... They do something like this on hp forum!

Also does anyone have a calibrated profile or something? My IPS display appears a bit yellow.. Is there anyway to fix this or do a calibration?

 

Thanks for all the information guys. I've heard back from a few shops and it looks like the 770ZM is gone. I am trying to decide now between picking up a g-sync model ZM or waiting to see what the DM brings. Are there rumors of new screens for the DM models or will they probably be the same?

 

http://www.clevo.com.tw/clevo_down.asp?lang=en

 

Current talk is 2k and 4k screen options no word on 1080p currently. Maybe g sync but that's always part of seeing which screens in the batch can handle it. Least that was true for the 75hrz ones on the ZM-G. Last heard the ultra high 2k 4k ones were locked at 60

 

I installed 2 version of the hotkey and they both keep crashing.. They were updated versions... Do I install the stock one from drivers disc and then run the new installer? Literally the minute I open the control centre and click 1-2 times and crashes!

Ok another problem, keyboard backlighting isn't working... Tomorrow I'll open it up again to check this... Which cable is responsible for keyboard backlighting? Is it the left or right one? I hope I haven't broken anything while putting in the RAM...

@HTWingNut , @jaybee83 anyone?

 

Get the most recent control panel of of mysn.de. The backlit is the one on the left by the ram slots

Edit: verify the one in the right is on both slots (i think it had two places it connects, check the service manual).

 

The right doesn't seem to be a problem... Keyboard works perfectly... Also to remove keyboard is it 1 screw/2 screws or 3 screws? I was told that there is one screw K/B which you can easily see and another one that is under heatsink.. I did that today and I think that was the problem.. Do you remove the 3 screws indicated in manual only? I'm not too sure about this every place says something different.. To remove 3 screws heatsink doesn't need to be removed right? I don't want to remove it lol.. Have a good repaste done..

Lastly, is this keyboard so fragile? I've had 2 keys come out which I have pressed back in but this is worrying for me...

Fixed hotkey problem.. it was some net framework issue.... Damm I was almost this close to a perfect machine and this happened... BTW, AJC, have you need to calibrate your display? My IPS display has a yellowish hue... A bit too yellow for me.. Is there some way to calibrate etc? Does anyone with the LG display have a profile?

 

First, it is three screws the manual says. You do not need to remove the heatsink. You use a tool with a width no more than 2.5mm to push on the keyboard to lift it up. THIS IS THE ONLY HOLE REINFORCED!

As for fragility, I don't know, but ethrem had to rma b/c of his keyboard.

Finally, yes. But I don't want to mention anything until the win 10/Nvidia thing gets resolved. DON'T USE SOMEONE ELSE'S CALIBRATION!!! Their monitor is off in different amounts than yours.

 

Oh great... I'm going to talk to CEG about this keyboard... Bit lame that keys should be falling out like that.. Will do the keyboard tomorrow morning and get back to everyone about this...

 

You should be able to download all drivers from your reseller/system builder, most on here have the full library available through their websites - I can't link to it directly as I'm a reseller but you can can find ours from our UK homepage, Support > Drivers & Downloads

Stylenote is the stock Clevo BIOS with the Clevo splashscreen. You need to create a bootable USB stick with a program like Rufus and then copy the BIOS/EC files onto this. Shouldn't be necessary to update on a new system unless you are using Prema versions. There are new BIOS/EC for Win 10 but for 8.1 you shouldn't need to update.

 

Indeed I do have the latest BIOS versions... Was wondering more about this for Prema BIOS but that's not urgent as I have everything I need within WIndows... I found your drivers, got the hotkey from there and it is working now... Had some Net Framework installation issues which caused Hotkey to crash which I fixed...

Now I just need to fix this keyboard backlight cable.. I hope it isn't broken and it shouldn't be.. Probably became a bit loose or something when I put the RAM...

 

Good News Keyboard backlighting is fixed... The cable had come out from the clasp and it was easy to put back in...

My LCD also looks better now..Probably needs to burn in a bit but I know that Mythologic provides calibrated display profiles so if someone has one to share for the LG 1080p IPS pannel
I would be very grateful. Other then that is there some guide for tweaking Haswell? My 4790K is monster, it holds 4.3GHz on 4 cores in stress tests with 70W power used and a -30mV undervolt on core and cache... Temps top out at 80C with max fans..

Btw what is the key combo for max fans? Doesn't seem mine has it.. Fn+F1 is for touchpad...

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

FN+1

 

Nope that doesn't work... It disables touchpad for me... Is there someway to config Fn+f1 for max fans through the hotkey?

 

Are you sure you tried Fn+1 and not Fn+ F1? If Fn+1 doesn't work then something's wrong.

 

I have a Mythlogic G-Sync IPS. I noticed the yellow too at first but I'm used to it. If I can figure out the profile stuff I'll upload it.

 

I think you have to request the profile and they'll send it to you... I don't think it's pre applied... Can you try emailing/calling them and asking for it?

 

I'm pretty sure it's the one that says it's my default profile.

 

It is indeed Fn+1 lol... Yes it works...

 

Can someone recommend a cheap but nice looking sleeve for the 17.3 Batman?

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

I know some of Slappa's sleeves fit larger 17 inch models.

 

I have a question to asked, is it okay to use a DDR3L 1833Mhz Ram? or 2133MHz RAM? i saw some of you guys having this kind of spec and what is the benefit or downside using a better version of ram? Currently i'm using a 32GB 1600Mhz Ram....

 

Tbh the difference isn't that much.. I just used 2133MHz RAM since I had it on hand and got it cheaper then 1600MHz RAM... The difference comes when doing benchmarks and when RAM is taxed a lot like in some programming operations.... In games the difference depends.. Some games like BF4 like faster RAM... Btw I use Kingston Hyper X Impact RAM.. There is also Corsair and GSkill RAM which you can use but I've always been a Kingston fan and they do give lifetime warranty...

,

Thanks for letting me know.. I'll have a look at these... I found some on Amazon of Belkin which I liked but not sure if those are big enough so I'll have a look at Slappa


Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

I was thinking of having a better ram if this laptop can support it. Afraid that it would do harm to it. Do i need to configure it or just plug and play...got any suggestion which ram is better?

 

See my first post, I have updated it... No better RAM will not cause any damage...

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

Ty, i will survey the prices and how to know which ram is compatible? Any type or slot code of something?

 

Look at the CAS Latency (CL) too. Usually, the Megahertz (MHz) frequency would be most important if the CL is close. When I bought my P770ZM the choices were 1600MHz CL9 and 1866MHz CL11 both were Kingston Hyper X. They ran out of Hyper X CL10 1866MHz. The 1600 would have been the better/faster choice between those two. Luckily, for me, Mythlogic let me send them RAM and I got 1866MHz CL10 Crucial which is faster than 1600MHz CL9. So, pay attention to CAS Latency too.

You want DDR3L 204 Pin SO-DIMMs. It is usually listed as Laptop Memory. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SO-DIMM

Edit chart added.

 

Though be aware the benefits to speed are minor so make sure you have the rest of the system as you want it before investing in the ram speed.

 

Sorry for cross-posting but here is the right Thread for my P771ZM-G

I moded my Book a little bit with a Watercooling System.
Here are the Pictures

It does not look very nice but my target at the moment is:
1. nice temps with good clocks
2. silent
3. portable at home
4. normal using for on the way without the watercooling
5. nothing big change on the housing from the book, so that i can make it fast stock. (for this i have a new Heatsink and bottom cover )




some specs:
- CPU watercooling copper 30x30x3mm
- GPU watercooling copper 30x25x3mm
- Water Cooling Radiator Integrated System (120mm Radiator + Fan, Pump, Tube, Switch, ......)

Why are the Watercooler on the heatsink and not directly on the CPU/GPU HIS?
Because there is many to mod.
- heatsink have no more contact for cooling the vram and other parts.
- heatsink dont fit to the fan positon anymore
- heatsink dont fit in the bottom cover anymore
- my watercolling coppers are too small, so i have to mod the CPU braket.
- alot of other problems
I know you can have better temps if the watercooling copper directly on the CPU/GPU.
But there is to much moding with the Case and i can´t go back to stock!

The Water Cooling Radiator Integrated System is at the moment for testing.
I will change some parts the next days because the Pump and Fan are too loud and the 120mm Radiator too small

**** edit *****
Here my actual Temperatures with air, water, xtu, occt, 4ghz and 4,5ghz.


20min XTU stress test 4,0Ghz @ 1,024V with max fan (22 degree room temp)
Aircooling = 61 degree
Watercooling = 56 degree



20min OCCT stress test 4,0Ghz @ 1,024V with max fan (22 degree room temp)
Aircooling = 65 degree
Watercooling = 58 degree




20min XTU stress test 4,5Ghz @ 1,151V with max fan (22 degree room temp)
Aircooling = 77 degree
Watercooling = 67 degree




20min OCCT stress test 4,5Ghz @ 1,151V with max fan (22 degree room temp)
Aircooling = 87 degree (i stoped after 10min because that enough temp)
Watercooling = 72 degree

So what can we see?
The Watercooling performs better in high/ heavy CPU Load and Voltage

 

Hey there, I got a strange problem....

Everytime I boot it up (for example when I got back from work)... It will boot, but after 10-15 minutes it crashes totaly, turns itself off... (It doesn't mattter what I do, playing, surfing, idle....)

When I turn it on again, it will run... run... run... Playing hours of GTA5, no problem, doing Photoshop, no Problem and so on....

The Windows logs aren't helpful, there is only "windows... bla bla... no propper shutdown... bla bla..."

The Problem appears, as I installed Windows 10.... Any Ideas?

 

Hats off to you dude for being ingenious!

 

Nice!

May search aquarium suppliers for good quick-release options:

Spoiler: Quick-Disconnect Valves

Do think more can be achieved here ... lot of effort after all. You don't actually need to mod the heatsink; use torch and desolder only the heatpipes, solder on the block and resolder the heatpipes on top of the block. Only need to bend the pipes a bit downward. It'd still fit; total height hasn't changed. Only the heatpipes will be a bit less effective when not attached to the water-cooling system.

Try turning off 'Fast Boot'.

 

Coolermaster or bitspower quick disconnects are higher quality metal and seem more durable with less chance of leaking. Check those out for quick disconnects.

 

That's what I had already thought, but i dont kow what is the best way to desolder the heatpipe.
Is a torch not too hot and damaged the Pipes?

Koolance quick release are also good.

 

I said coolermaster while thinking Koolance. But you seem to have it under control!

 

hehe,
yes all under control

I have some Watercooling stuff installt in PC´s.

 

Copper-alloy, think of it a plumbing . To boot, it's what they've used to assemble it, as well:



Think the trickiest bit is to prevent the sealed ends from melting as well. Heat travels quickly, that's what a heat-pipe is for, after all. So heating one end would soon heat the other end too ... Perhaps the part not-to-be-desoldered can be held in a water bath (or wet towels)? Plus, some generous application of high viscosity flux to the solder joint would see it melt earlier than the rest. Might try an iron first; a bit slow going, but far more precise and easier to cool the non-soldering ends in-between. Do think the torch would be preferable for re-soldering; only way to get a nicely full and heavy joint. You'd want to keep no-solder gaps to a minimum for the best result and the iron heats too locally.

Other inspiring videos:





Heat-pipe is vacuum-pulled, so no risk of exploding fragments. Worst that could happen is that it'd leak at the 'pinch'-end. That might be repaired rat-bike-style, but it'd be difficult to get the original's transfer-capacity back.

Anyway; go crazy! Thanks !

 

Thanks @t456

But that´s alot to do for me
Perhaps if i will mod more the Book than make it with the Heatsink.
At the moment my mod is ok for me.

Ps. 4,8Ghz @ 1,258V XTU 20min with 74 degree

**** Edit *****
Here the Pictures from the 4,7Ghz and 4,8Ghz


All test about 20min.
XTU with 4,7Ghz @ 1,213V max fan/watercooling 68c degree
OCCT with 4,7Ghz @ 1,213V max fan/watercooling 75c degree


XTU with 4,8Ghz @ 1,225V max fan/watercooling 74c degree
OCCT don´t work even with 1,29V!! Think i have to change the Power Limit and some other stuff.
But i´m not the OC Genie and don´t know what i have all to change in the Settings

BTW.
You ask why so very good Temps with 4,8Ghz ??
i´m cheating
I opend the Window and the Room Temp is only 14c degree. So the Watertemp is only 19c degree on stresstest

 

theres no cheating in this field, anything is allowed as long as it gets u better temps and higher clocks haha

btw, i got 4.8 ghz stable only at 1.324V, so u still have lots of voltage and thermal headroom left

btw, best to maximize all the following sliders: Turbo Boost Power Max / Processor Current Limit / Turbo Boost Short Power Max / Turbo Boost Power Time Window

 

Hehe, i know its not cheating

Will try it with your Tipps.

 

Small update


4,5Ghz with 20min XTU 61c degree


Idle Temps around 23c degree

I love the Watercooling.
Hope today comes the rest parts for the new "silent" watercooling.

For the Guys who interested about the watercooling, i found my system on Aliexpress.
I got mine from a friend
It´s the same only other colour.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY-....lJ3KTf&ws_ab_test=201407_4,201444_5,201409_4

Here are the waterblocks
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Lapt....lJ3KTf&ws_ab_test=201407_4,201444_5,201409_4

There have many stuff for Laptop Watercooling
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale...0150911003603&SearchText=Laptop+Water+Cooling

 

Hey guys, has anyone on here successfully flashed Prema's modded vBIOS on their 980M w/ gsync. I just flashed it and I'm getting a black screen at start up, no post or anything. It flashed fine in Windows and prompted to reboot. Then nothing. Any ideas?

edit: bricked the vBIOS... I swapped the 980M out of my Alienware in and voila it worked. Can I do a blind flash on this thing or am I out of luck? I would use the Alienware but it has the 120Hz screen so it can't use the Intel GPU.

 

Did you try putting the g-sync gpu into the AW and see if it boots it up?

 

Yeah, 8 beeps.