*** Official Clevo P67xRP6-G/P67xRS-G (Sager NP8172/8173) Owner's Lounge ***

I wouldn't mess with anything if you are on 7700HQ

 

I am a nub at this stuff, does line out means its using the SABRE dac only, no amping?

 

Pretty much.

The headphone jack can serve as optical out (digital signal) if you want to use an external amp and dac.

Though @Meaker@Sager is it using the Sabre dac in that case, or a different one? idk if the speakers one is involved there or something. I would hope it's the Sabre.

 

If it's like the P870DM3 then the line out jack uses the Realtek DAC. Only the headphone out jack uses the Sabre DAC.

 

This is saddest day of my life.

 

Does your DAC not have S/PDIF input? You can just get a cheap USB interface.

 

Anyone here with the p670rs play battlefield 1 or overwatch and can give some temp readings?

 

Hey guys I installed Windows 7 Pro on my P670HS GTX 1070 and installed all the drivers with OBSIDIAN PC Tool.
Power settings are configured to High Performance on Windows, CCC and NVIDIA Control Panel.

But I'm experiencing really bad performance while gaming, specifically on Riders of Icarus, a heavy CPU/GPU game.
I'm getting 30fps average and 40fps max on graphic settings all set to MAX and 1080p. This is really bad, my 5yr old Clevo with a Radeon 4850 run like this.

Just to compare, my MSI GT73 with GTX 1080 on same game and settings is running at constant 120fps with little spikes to 70fps on heavy battles.

The weird part is that while on this game the Clevo is using 20% GPU and 50% CPU and MSI using 50% GPU and 50% CPU.

What do you think? I'm considering installing Windows 10 and check if perhaps the drivers work better.

 

I have the same laptop and I get 100% gpu usage and 90-97% usage in pretty much every game I play... yeah you probably need to be on Windows 10. It sucks, but it just part of life now sadly.

 

You really need to be on Windows 10 for these newer machines. Get yourself an Enterprise key from reddit for $50, this way you can disable all telemetry sent to Microsoft. You'll still need to use a program like O&O Shutup10 for other stuff, but at least there's a way to keep MS' prying eyes off your stuff.

 

Why doesn't the Sabre actually show up anywhere in the OS?

 

Does it have to be Enterprise version? What about Home + O&O Shutup ? That's what I'm using on my MSI.

Also, should I install directly the Creators version or stick with Anniversary for a while? I have both ISOs.

 

What monitor should I buy if I want to make use of everything this laptop has to offer? Asus ROG PG279Q or an Acer Predator XB271HU? They're both 144hz 2.4k IPS 27" monitors Do I really need something that expensive to fully appreciate the 1070 I have? Are there other options I should consider? Do I really need or want a G-Sync monitor?

My current Acer IPS 1080p 60hz 23" external monitor is dying a slow death. It was $120 2.5 years ago, but it's starting to flicker. I bought it at a time when I really needed a cheap but good external monitor, and had my previous Sager with a 970m. Times have been good since then and I've upgraded to this laptop, and it look's like it's time to upgrade the screen as well. I game but I also do a lot of imaging work, thus wanting the IPS colors and not caring about the slightly slower response time vs a TN panel.

 

I use anti-beacon from spybot company, is that not good enough to stop telemetry?

 

my CPU (7820HK) often throttles down to multiplier 29 (disables Turbo) when playing games - what can i do? which settings in BIOS or XTU or throttlestop can prevent this?

 

Because the sound is managed by the realtek drivers.

 

So I have to RMA my P670RP6-G... 1060 is severely unstable (superposition and benchmarks force system reboot or crash drivers (everything stock!)), IMC seems to be freaking out with all 4 dimms in use... latest bios still has not fixed system not waking from sleep for me and I have weird fan grind every once in awhile. The only issue is I ordered it without any drives or anything in the unit and I am not sending it back with all my drives and ram in there..so whats chance of receiving a HP6-G in its stead? I am tired of nothing truly being fixed and I figured everything was from owning one of first few units that shipped but at this stage Kaby seems more stable.

It may be because I have a dud but going crazy over here...in end motherboard is what needs swapping so whatever fixes it honestly.

(Bought Via Xotic so its all Sager)

Edit: Getting rma setup now... on the flip side....GSync options vanished for me ._.

 

Having experienced it, I now consider some form of adaptive refresh rate support an absolute necessity, be it G-Sync for NVIDIA or FreeSync for AMD. This was the single best upgrade I've done to a computer since going to solid-state storage. G-Sync specifically adds a lot of cost to a monitor and only works over DisplayPort (FreeSync can be done over DisplayPort or HDMI), but it's absolutely worth it. The great thing about adaptive refresh technology is that it can give your GPU a longer life since it essentially eliminates input lag if your game drops below 60 fps.

I've used plenty of G-Sync monitors over the last year, including ones from Acer, Asus, and Dell. The quality control from all these manufacturers can be really hit or miss, but I've been extremely lucky not to have gotten any duds with dead pixels or excessive amounts of backlight bleed and/or IPS glow. Right now, I have the Asus PG27AQ, which is the 4K IPS G-Sync monitor. I don't have any professional calibration tools, but to my eyes, it looked fantastic out of the box. The only adjustments I made were to drop the brightness and add in a small amount of digital vibrance through the NVIDIA control panel. Older games, and even some newer ones, look and run great at 4K on the GTX 1070. For games that aren't as well optimized, dropping down to 1080p looks better on the PG27AQ than it did on my old 1440p Dell.

There are a couple things I don't like about it, though. First is that the built-in USB hub only has two ports; my Acer and Dell monitors each had four. The Dell was especially nice because it had two auxiliary 3.5mm headphone outputs so I could run audio passthrough from my PlayStation TV that I had connected to the HDMI input. The Asus does have a 3.5mm output, but I need to run a small extension cable so I can easily switch my headphones back and forth between the PSTV and my laptop. The biggest annoyance, however, is the fact that the Asus uses an external AC brick, rather than the circuitry being integrated into the monitor like it is on the Acer or Dell, which only need a single standard PC power cable. It's just more junk cluttering up my workspace.

Despite these issues, I really like the PG27AQ. The 60 Hz maximum refresh rate doesn't bother me - I don't play online at all, and using G-Sync with a frame rate limiting program like RivaTuner Statistics Server helps keep GPU temperatures and fan noise slightly in check. Among the monitors you listed, I'd get the Asus PG279Q. Just make sure you buy it from a place with a good return policy. If you have a MicroCenter near you, get it from there. They will price match online retailers. Once you have it ready to go, be sure to buy a good-quality DisplayPort cable like this one. The ones that come in the monitor's box are pretty trash. The one I linked will go right from your system's mini-DP output, so there's no need for any adapters.

Not completely. I wouldn't use Spybot's solution either because they don't update it very often. O&O Shutup10 is a much better choice because they stay on top of whatever tricks MS pulls in each update. As I said, I still use Shutup10 even though I shut down telemetry in W10 Enterprise's group policy editor.

Ugh.

 

An external 1440p 60hz or 1080p 120hz should drive the 1070 pretty well.

 

Read Windows 10 Tweaks and Fixes

 

Uhg. Well, I'll take your word that it exists, would rather not tear it down just yet...

 

The only 60 Hz G-Sync monitors I know of are 4K. Anything of lower native resolution is either 144 or 240 Hz, and there are no 1080p models that have an IPS panel. As of right now, 1440p is probably the sweet spot for the 1070, but I wanted something that would also look good at 1080p when the system started to get a little long in the tooth. My 1440p display wasn't bad, but the 4K one is better suited for that purpose.

 

It just directs the digital data, the DAC does the hard work

 

Copy my settings. Go into your BIOS. 43000 instead of 45000, 36 on all 4 cores, and then undervolt by 60 (make sure to change the plus sign to minus in advanced options under overclock cpu in the bios) Also, I do not use the clevo control center, BIOS is much more stable and not bloatware only downside is can't control keyboard RGB colors.

I rarely break 75-80 celsius now... which sucks still, but still better than downclocking to 2.9ghz, i never downclock from the 3.6... battlefield 1 still hits like 93 celsius sometimes... ugh these laptops suck. Clevo is very overrated, or my heatsink is not sitting right... but I voided warranty trying to fix it myself so I am screwed. but oh well. gg life

 

i have tried it yesterday but sometimes i drop down to 29 (see it in Hwinfo64 under minimum)

 

Is it safe to use thermly grizzly conductaknaut TIM on the cpu and gpu? it says not to use it with aluminum, i cant tell, is the cpu itself made out of aluminum?

 

Safe in the sense it wont damage the metal of the heatsink. It's still liquid metal in a machine that's moved around so be very careful and sure what you are doing.

 

Clevos doesn't have battery overcharging prevention?

I have my MSI on Windows 10 and it has a battery "overcharge" prevention, whenever the AC is plugged the battery won't be charged past 90-95%. This prolongs battery life A LOT.
I was running my P670 on Windows 7 and it didn't have this feature. I thought it was Windows, but now I installed Windows 10 with all Clevo drivers and it still fully charges to 100%.

So, not possible to have this on my Clevo?

 

Did you enable flexicharge in bios?

 

No, it's disabled. As it's the default option and the Flexicharger description says "If you set FlexiCharger to Enabled, note that over time the battery meter's reading accuracy will deteriorate".
That description scared me.

Should I enable it?

 

My seller reccomended me not to use flexicharge.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

Is there a technical reason?

 

I think it has to do with how its implemented or optimized in the Kaby lake systems.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

@Meaker@Sager Is this OK to turn on for Skylake systems?

 

TBF i cant see how chipset affects such trivial system as power management...

 

Well there is a reason my seller did not reccomend me to use flexicharge. I do not know the reason technically. I assume it has to do with optimization on the Sager models (mine's a kaby lake sys). May be it has bugs?

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

It's more due to the OS learning the lowered battery percentage as the actual capacity.

 

Really? Is there such thing? So an OS reinstall should reset it.

Well, I enabled it since I use my laptop plugged in AC 95% of the time. And my last Clevo battery went to 0% capacity in less than a year.

 

0% in a year

I have a old HP laptop lying around since 2008 (almost a decade old). Still has juice for half hour. Talk about quality for the price we pay lol. Hopefully I am wrong and it just happened to be a defective one.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

0% was just a figure of speech. But in one year battery could hold for just five minutes. Now if I unplug the AC today it lasts just 30 seconds.

 

Wow. That scary quality or bad luck with a defective one.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

Likely a bad unit or something happened to it.

 

Got my P670RS-G back from RMA (ProStar) today, came with UEFI version 1.05.07RNS1. I've modified it to reveal the various hidden options, and there are some new ones that weren't present in previous versions. This UEFI is dated 1/07/2017.

I should be able to sanitize my personal info from it and post it, should anyone want to try flashing it (Intel Flash Programming Tool, part of the Intel Management Engine Tools, specifically version 11.0 which can be found on the googles should do it if you've unlocked your flash descriptor...)

I would want whoever tries to have an SPI programmer handy, with a fresh dump of their EEPROM before trying to use it though... that way if it doesn't work the restoration is simple. If anyone's interested, let me know.

If you're curious, the reason for my RMA is my GTX 1070 decided it didn't want to function properly anymore, giving me TDRs and crashing and even corruption when in UEFI and set to DISCRETE mode. It got to the point it wouldn't even boot up in DISCRETE mode anymore.

 

If you want I can send you over clevo signing tool for the P670RP6/RS.

Also did they end up changing motherboard? Curious since I just sent mine in for TDR failure too. except they are getting it without drives so no idea how thatll be tested (I ordered w.o storage not being mean to rma person)

 

30 CELSIUS DROP AFTER thermal grizzly conductonaut, I am not sure if the cpu heatsink was not hitting right or what... how can a paste make that much of a different... oh man


im getting 67 celsius max now instead of 97, and im at 3.9ghz all 4 cores no downclock.


gpu dropped 20 celsius as well.... and its boosting to 2ghz.... wow... I think Clevo just didnt sit the heatsink right or something... i have no freaking idea... all i know is that my temps are amazing now after grizzly... omg guys.... omg rofl this is the most insane thing i have ever experienced in my entire life, i was expecting 5 celsius max...

 

The paste itself would certainly not do that by itself, that sounds like the fit is better now.

 

Be careful with liquid metal paste on GPU... You don't want a loose fitting heat sink causing the paste to leak and kill your laptop!

 

Or pumping air in and hardening it.

You do need to make sure the fit is good

 

Well it has been running for almost 48 hours since the grizzly conductonaut was installed, gamed on it, let it get cold but shutting it off and winter air hitting it, turned back on, gamed, moved it around some... I think everything is fine honestly... otherwise probably would have had issues by now.

 

I don't see the button to search this thread, I am trying to find that post that shows you how to stop the infinite loop update for EGIS fingerprint scanner in windows update - creators update

help please ^^