[Liquid Metal & Traditional Paste] - Clevo P775DM2/3(-G)/P75xDM2(-G) (Sager NP9152/NP9172)

Good luck

 

Make that three. My paste will arrive monday so I'll be repasting my 650 next week. If you have the opportunity to take pics on your bead and any other work you do once you're in there it would be super helpful!

 

Torn between kryonaut and gelid ATM for my repaste. It seems like kryonaut performs the best but I'm worried about the longevity because of what people here mentioned. I don't really want to repaste very often.

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My wife's PC has got on fine for the last year with kryonaught on her all in one cooled I5 @ 4.4ghz.

 

I was wondering about this. Gelid seems like a safe bet. I figure I can repaste with kryonaut later if I want to try and push the OCing a bit more

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Not much difference between those two paste. You're looking at a difference of 1-2c drop/raise at best.

 

we need more numbers on how long Grizzly Kryonaut perform as intended when the heatsink is not completely level. Pump out effect increases significantly when the heatsink is uneven / warped. Grizzly Kryonaut is a soft paste, and this is no advantage in such circumstances. Longevity of the paste is equally important as good hardware temperature for people who don't like fiddling with thermal paste. For overclockers who push their hardware to the limit, isn't a conventional paste a alternativ. Only Liquid Metal is good enough.

 

Gelid, IC7, Kryonaut etc are a much or a muchness.. they'll all do they job well enough. As you know the only paste that makes a measurable difference far beyond a margin or error is Liquid Metal.

 

I know bro, but I'm still skeptical about Grizzly regard lifespan with an uneven/warped cpu heatsink. Everybody knows about Clevo Qc, and a rotten heatsink increase the pump out effect on soft / thin paste as Grizzly. The problem isn't on gpu, just on the processor.

 

If you're willing to be a forgiving on *what*, I can say I've used Grizzly Kryonaut on the x7200 for 5+ months, and there's been no change to report on degradation of its effectiveness. Still running about 57C in a pretty much 21-22C (72F) constant environment.

But there are some differences here : x7200 heatsink vs. P870DM* heatsink and no OC (by me) vs. anyone who does OC. However, I do run this laptop 12 to 15 hours a day with constant spikes in CPU (90-100%) while running VMs, compiling code, and running database queries.

 

As I said. Is skeptical to use Krynaut on a not so good heatsink. A flat steady heatsink is the key to success for most thermal paste. However a rotten heatsink and heavy Overclock is something else

 

@Papusan, Yep! I agree.

I don't know how flat my current heatsink is, as I've never bothered to look. Nor do I know how good Clevo was with heatsinks from machines 6 yrs ago. So hopefully everyone takes that into consideration with my comments. Thanks!

 

I can confirm that on a flat heatsink Kryonaut perfoms admirably. I have it on my Inspiron 17r SE for +6 month now and no degradation in temp/performance till yet.

On the other hand I could give Kryonaut a shot on my warped CPU heatsink of my P570WM. Problem is that I don't use it anymore, rarely at best.

 

Working just fine here on a not so flat heat sink .

 

As far I can remember. You use Liquid metal between die and IHS That will also help
I haven't used a standard high end paste the last couple of years, so maybe this will color my answers But a soft thin paste isn't the best choice with uneven heatsink who fit badly on die/IHS.
See also the image below(ICD vs Kryonaut).

 

Would it be possible to make the warped heat sink flatter by polishing or buffing?

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Yeah, but currently using Kryonaut on the IHS.
It isn't all that thin tbh. And even with LA temperatures going over 30c , my max hasn't crossed 77C @ 4.6Ghz.

 

To a certain degree. @Mr. Fox @ajc9988 have some experience with this. I sanded my heatsink for better cooling. But my heatsink was good from the beginning All depends on how bad your heatsink is from before.

 

So, @Mr. Fox went with bending the metal plate to get it close before starting. I went with sanding and lapping. It will depend how ****ed the curvature is. Further, you have to determine if it is the mounting that is off, first, to compensate. If mounting is fine, then you need to figure out if it is a bend that is preventing contact, one part of the surface not flat, or what. If you start sanding and there is a single high point, but you make contact with more than that high point, you are wearing down the low and high, not getting the low and high equal. After the high point is close to level with the rest of the lower points, then you can start working for true flat and mirror finish. Think critically on how to approach it. If it helps visualize it for you, think of trying to level your yard. If you took a board and tried to run the top of a mound, if the board isn't balanced on top, it tears up a flat part of the yard near the mound (suspend the fact you'd use a shovel and not a board for the moment). It also keeps the low part in between the top of the mound and where it tears up the flat lawn untouched. Eventually that will be flat, but now it has a pitch, an angle to it. Hope that helps...

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Yeah, i sanded my GPU heatsink as well. Made a lot of difference. CPU heat sink i never bothered with since, i know somewhere down the line i will replacing it with a water block .

 

Thank you for the tip! I'll have to see how bad it is. Maybe I can get some of that paper from my dentist that leaves a blue mark where my teeth have contact.

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Took apart my 150SM barebones to see how my GC was doing and found it all over the sides of the die and on most of the substrate. Would this be due to the specific curvature of my heatsink or something else entirely?

Edit: Its been about 3 weeks since that repaste

 

Liquid Ultra is a better choice. It is not not as wet as Grizzly Conductonaut(I and a few other have varned about GC's wet consistency). A not perfect heatsink(warped/uneven) could be the problem, but not always. Switch to Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra!!

 

I'm using liquid metal between my lid and core with kryonaught paste between the lid and heatsink.

 

So, couple things: 1) if you apply too much so that it is a pool instead of a thin layer, excess squeezed out of the sides, and 2) you might be experiencing pump out. With how thin the conductonaut is, it can move easier than CLU. Heading can cause material expansion, as well as expansion of oxygen trapped in bubbles trying to find an exit. When this happens, it pushes out from between the surfaces. If that is the case (either of them), just use less. 3) you have **** contact between the heatsink and die. At that point, you must correct the contact issue, change application, or discontinue use.

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GC-Extreme thermal paste. Sorry for the confusion about the name of the paste. But the concept is that same right?

 

To add on to this, if there is not enough LM applied it can cause high temps and/or cause one of the cores to go wacko. This is an indication of not enough paste.

As mentioned without a good fit (heat sink contact to die and IHS) using LM can be tricky. With laptops, almost always using too little is not enough.

For those like me who refuse to use traditional paste, it is highly recommended to tape around the GPU die and even IHS with electrical tape. No this is not being extreme, it's being logical and safe to what is highly probable of happening. Although I have not had any issues with Grizzly Conductonaut. (Knock on wood.)

::iunlock::

 

I've noticed the last few days my repaste with GC Extreme that my cpu temps have crept up? the gpu remains amazing never over 70 just wondering if cpu paste could be spilling out? don't want to open it up and remove headsink incase it ruins the great gpu temps I'm getting bit of a dilemma

 

It says you used a bit too much. If temps rose after running awhile, it says there is a gap formed from the pump out and you need to correct the mounting or contact issue. If temps didn't rise, then just a bit too much, it's non-conductive, no worries. Too much tim effects it a little, too little tim effects temps a lot! Click on the link in my signature on too much TIM to see what I mean...

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Too much or too less thermal paste isn't preferred. At least if you hunt for the best hardware temperature. Test with a cheapo paste or use what you have. Apply paste, fasten heatsink in the correct order. Then unscrew and take of heatsink again and see how your paste result become. Clean up and do the job one more time(more or less paste depends on the results you seen after dismantling). All will be good

Normally wouldn't a conventional paste spilling out like with too much Liquid metal(Liquid metal is very thin - not ordinary paste)... Only if you apply all to much paste. But the temperature shouldn't rise short time later after you applied to much paste. Probably applying too less paste...And processor is more problematic to cool than gpu. I would repasts if cpu temperature is/will be a problem. Don't fix it, if it ain't broken

 

After 24hrs of re-paste and for the last week or so temps even under stress didn't rise above 80 max for even long tests. This week however it's hitting 80 quite easily and the temps across the cores (6700k) vary by a lot constantly. I'm running an undervolt with this chip of -110. These temps are being hit for even easy gaming like fifa 17 for 5mins. I'm tempted to re-paste but like I said the gpu temps have been brilliant. Wondering if down clocking the CPU might help.

 

It might, but I'd redo it anyway, this may also be incomplete paste coverage on the CPU.

 

Don't do anything like this foolish idea before your cpu temperature will be a big problem. Either try one more time with re-paste or let it be as it is. +-80/86 degrees on cpu isn't a problem!!

 

Yeah I thought it could be such a shame. I used GC Extreme removing the awful mx-4 paste job and the temps looked great shame that it's not lasted. I'll crack her open and re-paste hoping, I used the spread method on the chips so this time I may try another method and hope for a more even covering on the CPU and to recreate the results for the GPU.

 

Use the X-cross method. Don't spread the paste if you haven't done it with success before. X-cross methods is a safer way to have success.

 

That's the method I was going to try. I think the contact from the heatsink is quite good so I may in a few months try some liquid metal. Shame about this first paste job it seemed to go great but after hearing about bubbles in paste moving etc I'll try again hoping for better results.

 

@ Papusan
I made the early decision to get Gelid GC Extreme thinking that was a good choice since I don't yet trust myself with liquid metal (or anything metal) for a TIM.

My factory paste is going to be the IC Diamond (not too happy about that, but it was actually cheaper). I'm planning on running a bunch of tests first, but based on some reports here I was anticipating that the temps may not be great. Do you think it's still a good idea to replace the factor TIM if the thermals are "okay", or is it just a bad idea to leave the IC Diamond on there?

 

repaste done cleaned with articlean and polished up nice. Temps are worse used the x method with GC Extreme am at a loss to understand. When I took heatsink off there was a large uncovered spot on the die but I put enough paste in the repaste x for it be covered surely.

 

If the paste job is done properly... I would say ICD is a very good choice!! Probably the paste with best lifespan of all conventional thermal paste out there. Only re-paste if the maximum temperature isn't as expected or you want Liquid metal. ICD is also the best thermal paste you can use if your heatsink is uneven/warped. Just be careful with the removing of ICD if you need to re-paste.

Edit @Tony Palmer How is the temperature now?

 

I've got 3 cores around 38 and one just spiking all the time over 54 its really frustrating.

 

What's the difference under load? I would try one more time. Put the tube in a plastic bag and warm up the paste in a cup of hot water(55C) before you use it. Or consider a replacement of heatsink.

 

what does warming the paste do?

 

Make the paste softer so it spread out better. Very useful at least with the thicker paste as ICD. I have always done it this way regardless what paste I used. But Not for Liquid metal

 

re-pasted with the aforementioned "warming" cleaned and prepped again and put together. Papusan could you send me some settings for how the cpu should be setup for my machine dm3-g?

 

Okay, I realize now some of my confusion was from the earlier discussion and naming confusion between Gelid GC and Grizzly Conductonaut (the other GC)

iunlock reported success with Gelid GC Extreme earlier in this thread (I think on the same model I'm waiting for - the P650RS). I was a little surprised (and worried) by Jared_T experience with the Gelid GC Extreme pumping out. I suppose if I have to go in there and repaste cpu/gpu I will need to figure out what is going on with the heatsink contact and correct it if needed.

Yikes, now I understand the value in having a builder do this (like HIDevolution) =)

 

Well I realized I was in over my headed and opted to have the builders at HIdevolution do the liquid metal application for me. Larry@LPCDigital had already given me the option of cancelling my order given the very long delay. The reasons to go with a builder were starting to add up for me. If I was ordering a laptop that required less special tweaking I definitely would stick with Larry@LPCDigital, but this was getting hairy.

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How are things looking? Status update?

BTW, I am using Grizzly Conductonaut (liquid metal) and not Gelid GC Extreme. I know the abbreviations can get mixed up at times, which is why I now spell it out every time in posts.

Having a reseller do the delid comes with many benefits, one of which is it being covered under warranty? I think most places back up the delidding and repasting if you have them do it. Having this kind of coverage on a CPU mod is almost unheard of...very neat thing to have covered.

 

The laptop has a surface mount CPU, so deliding isn't needed (thought sockets would be nice *cough*). @hidevolution is using Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra which I guess is a competitor to Grizzly Conductonaut. Yes, I definitely started to see the light when I considered the warranty coverage for this through HID (and bought an extra year). Hopefully HID will be around a good long time if I run into problems!

The laptop may be coming in before the next week is out. But of course I want to give HID plenty of time to do a nice job on assembly, test and calibration so I'm not in an uber rush. =)

 

Oh that's right you're getting the P650RS. For some reason I had assumed you were getting the P775DM3. Oops..

When is your EDD?

 

Yes, those big ones look awesome - but I'm trying to keep mobility an option.

The hardware, gets to HID allegedly on Monday. So I could see the unit on two weeks, but I'm hoping sooner.

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