Hello everyone,
I'll go straight to the point: I've always been sh*tting my pants while thinking about using liquid metal.
I have read far too many horror stories from people who tried applying it without enough knowledge and zero experience, turning 3k notebooks into door holders.
I'm a proud owner of a Razer Blade mid 2019, i7 9750 (P/L Th unlocked) RTX 2080 (100W vBios), 32 GB RAM with XMP enabled, 2 TB Intel Optane 660p but thanks to the already mentioned mods, it's running too hot.
I've seen as much material as I could about LM, but there's just too many ways how people are "ducting" transistors and other close-to-C/GPU parts, too many ways how people are applying the Conductnaut and such, mostly based on the different form factors of the notebooks.
Does anyone of you have enough "material" to be able to make a real guide at that regard which I could study and then follow to avoid turning my precious in a dead aluminium brick?
I'm not unfamilaird with repasting or, in general, handling cooling parts (i've been owning a custom water cooled system since 2010), so I don't need a guide for dummies, just a proper list of important things to check while proceding.
(Other than that, if anyone reading this feels confident enough and is living in Germany or Italy and is willing to do a professional job on this, I'd be happy to reach you in person and pay for the service. Just message me or leave a commet down here.)
Kind regards,
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Yeah the answer is: Don't do it.
The more detailed answer is: ESPECIALLY don't do it if it isn't throttling.
Even if you do everything perfectly, you will still destroy your heat sink, slowly and painfully over time. -
I’ve had liquid metal on my RBP 2017 edition for almost 3 years now. It works amazing as the day I applied it. Just don’t be sloppy with application, and a little bit goes a long way.
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Cleaning DEEPLY the fans has helped a damn lot, but I'm afraid that the summer will be tough.
The heat sink problem doesn't seem to be happening with copper one to be honest, every owner of RB I've read about was really happy with LM, to say the least.
Nonetheless, thanks for your input. -
Have you tried repasting with normal paste? Obviously not as good as LM, but it would be a good place to start given your (not unreasonable) hesitance over using liquid metal.
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Never did it and saw users with bad result, the vapor chamber is nickel mix aluminum apparently and according google it’s not great.
Attached Files:
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Makyura did you ever do the repaste? What compound did you go with?
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I wouldn't use LM on this laptop.
-clamping force on the heatsink isnt great
-vapour chamber has thinner walls
-it's not nickel plated, you're changing kryonaut every 3 months, you'll have to change LM also frequently as it will be absorved by the copper of the HS leading to much worse temps.
-I have doubts about how the heatsink materials will handle this in the long run. I don't think it's worth the hassle.
Undervolting + raising the back doesn't work?
My Blade Pro doesn't throttle at all. I'm on Thermalright KFX (which I recommend) but, granted, I don't have it PL unlocked) -
I have had LM on my 2020 RBA since December 2020 and it’s performing just as well as the day I applied it.
Liquid Metal repaste guide/service request, Razer Blade 15 advanced
Discussion in 'Razer' started by Makyura, May 17, 2020.