Water cooling kit for RPGA989?

I might give in...my attempts to cool my laptop with the 920xm with air only are proving very difficult. I still need to build my new laptop cooler that will help a lot but it proving harder than I hoped. I can run at 3-3.3 GHz on all 4 cores and gpu when its cool in the room and hover at 80C right now but beyond that I can't get any cooler. The new laptop cooler might get me to 70C but thats not enough to overvolt by 200mv to hit 4GHz while folding. (Also I dont like having to leave window AC on to keep room cool while i am gone or asleep) I need more extreme options.....so I am wondering if anyone knows of a water cooling kit for the RPGA989. I'll probably build it into my laptop cooler if someone can find me one. My laptop doesn't move anymore because the 920xm has either killed my dieing battery or my dieing battery can no longer support that kind of draw. So it doesn't move anymore.


here is my basic blueprint from what u have learned and i honestly think it is a better design than that one the other guy made

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/1363/internalheatsinkandwate.jpg

dont get me wrong i could probably make my own mounting brackets and that would work better but i don't want to bother with that. I "think" this will have enough contact to pull heat off but i am not 100% sure. If anyone has any ideas on how to increase contact with soldering please let me know. This will be my first time soldering so i'll probably cut up some spare pieces to try first.

 

It does not exist. You need to find a good water block that is a decent size for the space you are putting it in and then figure out a way to mount it yourself.

But maybe it would be better to sell your laptop on Ebay and buy a desktop. Your extreme modifications to your immobile laptop don't even get it up to what a desktop with the same cpu and gpu could do without any mods. And that comparable desktop hardware is actually very cheap on the used market.

 

that is all true but on the other hand how cool it would be a watercooled notebook? imo get new battery.

this one is the only watercooling mod I known that can eventually avoid the notebook from being not portable.
Dell XPS M1330 Notebook watercooling MOD, the little How to - YouTube

but if you want to cool the cpu you can add a large desktop heatsink. it will cool a lot more. no need for watercooling.
actually I've even seen a netbook cooled by LN2. it's all about fitting the cooler to the cpu. you have to be creative.
try to see some mods from cpu waterblocks being used on gpu's. you'll get the idea.

 

ok i'll give that a shot. hardest thing is getting the brackets to fit...i honestly dont want to custom build a bracket....will take forever

 

do you know what all he used? I see the zalman V1 but what connects? also did he drill a whole and put copper piping into it? He soldered it right? regular solder or what? Is Solder strong enough to hold and keep it water tight and conduct enough heat?

I saw a few ways he did it could be improved but very impressive. I am definitely going to do this if i can find out all he did to make it. I'll amke a much more thorough guide that explains it better. I am definately going to do this and get a solid 4GHz with the 920xm with overvolting and folding.

holy crap that thing is huge the zalman Reserator v1 I can't find it anywhere. Does anyone know of another kit that has quick releases?

 

he just hadded a small cooper pipe around the notebook cooler. I think he didn't made a waterblock. the fittings seam somekind of custom made.
the zalman radiator is just a passive radiator. you can use others, even with a pump and a reservoir.

quick releases don't exist in watercooling. that's the problem. you have to figure that out for yourself. it can be a mess if you do something wrong.
but I really enjoyed the mod because it seams that the notebook can be rather easily disconnected.

I wonder about how effective it would be... imo air cooling must be more efective then that. you can even leave the notebook open or put some holes on the bottom. get some fans and it will surely run colder.
note necessarely more cool, but colder.

you might want to look into the asetek prototype too. but that just seams too hard and big to implement...
Inside Asetek Labs - Liquid Cooling an Overclocked Alienware Laptop - YouTube

and here you have the solution from the first video:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/acer/553306-acer-timelinex-3830-4830-5830-t-g-334.html#post8147798


so let's resume what you could do:
1-complete watercooling rig integrated in the notebook
2-open notebook, desktop transformed notebook using pipes or a waterblock
3-semi watercooling using a pipe around the heatsink like in the video, using external pump and radiator.

1 is almost impossible. you need a very small pump, it will only fit in large 17" notebooks. the pump can be placed on the ODD space. you need specially machined copper tubes/waterblocks. you also need power to run the system.
2 is rather easy, it's just a matter of fitting a waterblock on the cpu. you just have to adapt the fitings, it's not that hard. the notebook would become a desktop.
3 almost as easy as 2. performance is questionable. portability is maintained. needs copper pipe and special fittings.

I would try to adapt the 3rd solution. I don't like the way he placed the copper tube. I mean, if he zigzaged the copper tube he would cover a much bigger area around the heatsink.
It would be a great mod. I want to see it

 

See OP for basic blue print.



NEW! Zalman Reserator Quick Release Couplings | eBay

thats zalmans quick release


I like how he did it. The video and comments seem to show that he actually drilled the connectors to have water go through the copper pipes too. Also a complete inside cooling system wouldn't work well plus i dont want that(also wouldn't fit). I want to build the water pump into the laptop cooler. That'll fit a pump and fans for it with no problem.

I would do the cooper pipes and several copper sheets and do a cooling block on cpu. The gpu I would not bother with doing the water cooling mod because it runs super cool already with overclocks. Plus my heatsink has two separate pipes. Remember all my photos from my cooling mod. I honestly can't increase cooling by air too much. I already have it pretty good. The new laptop cool would help a good bit but marginal. Maybe 5-10C tops.


Also is that thing at 2:07 a custom...umm what do you call it..."water block?

edit that wasn't a water block....the only water cooling he does is through the copper pipes. He has the connectors drilled to connect the copper pipes to the water cooler. I got a couple ideas on how to make that better. So is that connect custom made? or taken off of a water cooling block?

Do you got any water cooling systems that you recommend that are lower profile that i can modify?


I wonder if i could get this to work...its low profile for the most part
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/heatkiller-1156.html
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/xspc-rasa-750-rs240.html
Just found this and this looks good too
http://www.amazon.com/OCZ-Technolog...QW/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1339733287&sr=8-18

This one maybe/maybe not...hard to see
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/larkooler-ba2-241.html
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/antec-kuhler.html

I could find a way to mount this on the heat pipes...i rather stay off of the mounting on the CPU because i would like to try to make a mobile system. Maybe tomorrow i can go to fry's and see if they have water cooling kits i can see in person. I'll do more googling later to see if i can get better pictures of these. I dont have a lot of time right now.


EDIT:I just thought of how i would mount the water cooling kit into my laptop. I just need to find a spare cooling assembly before i go at it just in case if i mess up.

 

Try lapping the heatsink contact base. And use Coolaboratory liquid ultra and Coolaboratory etal pad (frozencpu store)

Also try removing the plastic safety grill in front of the heatsink

 

go to my cooling mod...i had to cut that fan out and replace it. That is an old picture. I tried overvolting the fan and burned it out so i replaced it. it runs at a constant 5v. Also that plastic "grill" was the original support beams. The fan is mounted into the heatsink. I cut it out and super glued a new fan in. Also do you have links to what ur talking about?

 

Paste: Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra 100% Metal Thermal Interface Material - FrozenCPU.com

Pad: Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad Thermal Interface CPU Pad (501249) - FrozenCPU.com


Be careful tho, the paste dissolves aluminum.



I mean like this

[fan][==> airflow][heatsink][grill] ==> outside of laptop

cut the grill out and let more air pass trough.

Also, you might want to see if it's possible to have the fan intake air from the top, not just from the bottom

 

there is no grill on my laptop anymore minus the exhaust grill...but its like 10 small beams that really wont do anything with stopping air flow. Also i got a fan blowing into the intake too...an exhaust fan would be too much trouble...i have so much airflow on this thing that it is so finicky with ambient temps its not even funny

...I use ICD so i dont need past but what is a metal pad goof for if it metals at 59C....it'll get everywhere on my laptop. Not getting on how i could use these

 

If you are really this into it, you might want to try other thermal pastes to lower your temps a degree or two.

 

i doubt using anything else than ICD will help enough to justify buying it.

 

The paste I gave is better than ICD

Who knows, It might make a difference, try it.

Also, try making the fan intake (not the bottom casing) bigger

 

....it can't get bigger. I cut away everything i can. I dont have an updated photo yet but everything has been taken out and the fan is set at max voltage speed plus there is another fan forcing ~50CFM into case fan.

How is the other paste better? I am honestly not going to buy that while i still have plenty of ICD just because trying to keep costs down but if its better how so? I'll keep note of it later when i need more.

 

Well if you are crazy enough to waste money liquid cooling a laptop, I wouldn't think a tube of new thermal paste would break the bank when it could lower your temps a degree or two.

 

I need a more complete solution. The water cooling will be reusable for other laptops if i ever get any new ones down the road.and reusable for desktops too if i buy one

 

thermal paste is a nonsense. no way you would get more then 2C at the very best of the best scnearios. forget it.

imo getting a waterblock migth work but it wont be portable anymore. not because of the size or connector issues, those could eventually be worked out. but because you would need to remove the heatsink. therefore when in portable mode the waterblock without heapipes, even with some mods, wouldn't cool the cpu enough and after a while the notebook would shut down.

the only way this could be worked out it would be with a custom made waterblock with heatpipes. now there's a problem here because I don't known anyone that can make DIY heapipes. sure I've seen many machined copper waterblocks that are great but heatpipes are a whole new thing.

EDIT: actually you can make heatpipes or even buy them and bend them as you want. THAT would be so great.
a custom made notebook cooler with a waterblock. it can't be that hard. there's many notebook coolers that could be adapted too. the most difficult part would be to design and machine a waterblock with integrated heatpipes. but it's certainly doable. not easy but possible. and if the notebook has some space around it may be even possible to add a small waterpump and reservoir. the problem would be the radiator.
but imo an hybrid solution makes more sense because those components would consume battery power and it would make the notebook much more heavier.

I just remembered that some motherboards had waterblock/s AND heatpipes to cool the the mosfets and/or northbridge/southbridge.
Gigabyte EP45-EXTREME

 

Interesting.. Where are you planning to run the lines for the liquid? It's kinda hard for me to read some of the writing (color blind lol), but are you planning to use the same fan as the gpu to dissipate heat? Or are you doing like the video of that dell laptop and are going to dissipate externally..? Maybe have an updated blueprint, or at least one with different color writing lol.

I thought about doing this for my laptop as a project to kill time, but I spent the budget and ran out of time I kill! Very intrigued though

 

imo the best way to do it is to just add a waterblock where the cpu is. the rest must remain intact otherwise the notebook can only be cooled while connected to the pipes.
the idea is to change the minimum possible and try to replicate the notebook cooler, by modifing it or making a new one.
if you can get the heatpipes to go inside or or close to the waterblock then you solve the problem.
for the connectors you can even make some small plastic caps to close the circuit in order to the coolant not to leak and avoiding having to drain it everytime you want to take it somewhere else.
it's chalanging to design and machine such a device. certainly possible to do it.
I think the best way is to try to modify used notebook coolers.

Just an important notice, beware when playing with heatpipes, if you want to bend them don't heat them. otherwise you can get some nasty burns. a heatpipe has a vacuum inside. if you want to bend it or something, just use a pipe bender. but even when doing it be extra careful and use protections.


you can get many cheap parts to play around.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=Inspiron+1545+heatsink&LH_PrefLoc=2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-New-Wa...48578?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item3cc612a5a2

 

you didn't see my image i uploaded did you? I am soldering a copper slab onto the existing heatsink(heatpipes) and drilling wholes to mount the waterblock. This gives me the ability to run off water cooling and air cooling at once. Plus i can just unscrew the waterblock at anytime and run without it...just reduce TDP and clocks for those times. Plus my notebook doesn't move anyways. Also I can leave the water block inside all the time...it'll just stick out of the bottom case( I will remove a section of the bottom panel for it). I would then have to leave 4 supports under notebook so it doesn't rest on the waterblock. See what i am saying?

The waterblock would pull heat off the copper slab that is soldered to the heatpipes. I am trying to find a G51j cooling assembly so i dont have to work on my only cooling assembly. So if i botch it i am not dead in the water. If you find a cooling assembly for the G51j i would appreciate it. I found two sites that might have it and emailed them and waiting for a response. Dont want to spend 50 bucks and get a BS item.


EDIT: also the water cooling kit will be inside the laptop cooler for convenience.

this is the photo i am talking about. The outline around heat pipes is the copper slab all one piece. Also the outline that is shaded in is the water block that is mounted into the red drilled wholes. The water block will be sticking out of the bottom case. I'll use like silver solder unless you know better. This will allow me to solder the whole slab to the heatpipes. I talked to my dad and he said you would use flux to allow the solder to flow into the cracked of the heatpipes/slab and then i would have a good thermal solid bond. The waterblock would be screwed into the copper slab like a regular heatsink and i would use ICD for the thermal paste.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/1363/internalheatsinkandwate.jpg

EDIT
ok i was looking here

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

and i can't find any solder that is high silver/copper based. I dont want to use a lead solder because lead is not thermal conductive. the best looks like the silver/tin solder but that is brittle and i think that will be bad for my use in this. All copper ones are low in copper too. Anyone know of the best solder to use.


Indalloy 3 looks decent. 90% indium and 10% silver. it has 81.8 W·m−1·K−1 for indium


http://www.indium.com/_dynamo/download.php?docid=162

this makes it seem that the melting point varies compared to wikipedia...93C is an issue lol.

 

Yeah, that was the photo I was talking about. I couldn't read there text on it.. I think I've kinda got the idea though.

What about a thermal adhesive? Something like Arctic Silver's product:

Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive

 

interesting...i like that but i dount thay'll hold a copper slab and waterblock. Noted for future projects. I wonder if that is better than sekisui thermal tape. As in stickiness and conductivity

cool thing is how i am going to design it is that everything is going to be in the cool pad (hopefully) and i can use this on multiple laptops as long as i mod them. So If i ever dont want to use this thing anymore I am pretty sure I could probably sell it to someone or sell it for part. It is going to cost probably 200-300 bucks to make since I got to buy the copper, water cooling hit, and materials for cooler. I still need a multivoltage adapter but i can't find any that puts out the mAh. I need 3-12V with 3000mAh :/ that totals 36watts at max load lol

I might just slit two AC adapters so i can at least two sets of voltages. 1 at 5V and the other at 12V. and just pull out the plug and switch when i want more airflow.

Sidenote i read somewhere on this forum about potentiometer or something. That might work i think but doesn't the AC adapter use 12v at 3amps 24/7 even if i set the potentiometer to a lowr voltage or whatever. 36Wh is mighty wasteful 24/7 for a cooling pad.

BTW what is TTU?


EDIT: This is the list of supplies I need so far

Cooling pad
1. Materials
2. Plexiglas
3. Metal mesh
4. 5v/12v AC adapter (multivolt adapter if possible)
5. Legacy PSU cables
6. Fans
Water cooling
1. waterblock
2. pipes
3. pump
4. radiator
5. copper slab
6. solder gun
7. solder
8. spare cooling assembly

Some I already own but most I need to buy...this is going to be expensive but awesome Anyone want to buy it when I haver no use for it

AGAIN IF ANYONE KNOWS OF A WATER COOLING KIT THAT HAS QUICK RELEASE I WOULD APPRECIATE IT!!!! Zalman seems to be the only one i have seen and its not made anymore.

WHAT DO YOU GUY'S THINK I SHOULD USE
This is the water blocks i am looking at

This has a nice swival feature but i dont like how tall it is.
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/koolance-chc-125.html

This is nice and small and not too tall so it would fit nicely but i am not sure how big of a copper slab i'll have to mount yet. I would obviously like the biggest waterblock as in surface area as possible but i dont want to push it. This is small and would definitely fit.
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/alphacool-hf-14.html

This would fit but a little tall but workable. I don't like the cost of it though. It is super expensive. I bet i can find one cheaper but what do you guy's think.
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/enzotech-stealth.html

This is even more expensive but a nice waterblock wouldn't stick out too far but is on the larger size. I need to take the bottom panel out again but it seems like it might be a tight squeeze with ~2.5 inches of space needed.
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/heatkiller-1156.html


This looks like a nice kit and affordable. I don't know what size this water block is or if I can fit any of the other ones from above either. Does anyone know what the dimensions of the water block are? Also what do you think of this kit? I dont want to make my own because that will take a lot of work with getting all the pieces i need plus i dont know what is good and that would be even more of a pain. Also might even cost more. It would be nicer to have a custom built kit from random parts. Would fit in the cooler nicer but I think that is more work than it is worth unless you guy's want to help me build a kit from parts.
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/xspc-rasa-750-rs240.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_-HOT.html

 

if you want to use adhesive just use "SEKISUI #5760" it's the best thermal adhesive in the world. and it sticks very well. and it can be removed later easily if you want.
with thermal glue (not paste or compound or adhesive) it's much more harder to remove. But it has a much higher thermal dissipation. The best one I could find was arctic silver thermal adhesive.


I have thought before about your idea.
It's great since it doesn't require extensive modding. but there's a problem. putting a waterblock just above the heatpipes will make parts very bulky. but that's a minor problem.
The bigger problem is that I think that thermal effeciency of such a system will be very limited.
waterblocks are supposed to be in contact with chips. not with heatpipes.

You could also try to route the pipes from the waterblock to the side of the notebook. there's no need to route them through the bottom.

Having said all that, of all those waterblocks the enzotech one is the best. The rasa is good but not as good. and all the others are very below these 2.
To check for the dimensions just search in the manufacturers website. it will say all the dimensions.

the smallest waterblock I could find was the one I pointed you from ebay.


EDIT:
My idea is to mod the heatsink. It can be more difficult or easy depending on the notebook cooler/heatsink design.
in your notebook seams more difficult but still possible.


What I want to do is to replace the bottom part of the heatsink with a waterblock. therefore keeping the heatsink design rather intact.
Using a small waterblock like this.

and placing it in where the heatsink makes contact with the chip


and it can be a very cheap mod while retaining the notebook warranty. it depends on the parts price.
because you can buy another heatsink and mod it you can if needed replace it with an original one and RMA the notebook. the same with the bottom plastic. it would be more difficult to do that if you route the waterblock trough side of the chassis itself. or with some skills you can try to route it trough the ODD bay if you remove the ODD.

it would work much better then just placing a waterblock next to the heatsinks.
also if you add plastic caps to the connectors, the waterblock will still have some coolant inside that even helps cooling while not connected to a watercooling rig.

 

kind lost on how i would put the water pipes out the side...either way i have to cut out a chuck of the bottom panel to fit the waterblock in...hence why i want the water pipes going from the bottom (simplest way). Also those heatsinks your showing are not the same design as mine. Also lowest profile would be to find a way to put the water block into the heatsink grill but as i stated earlier i do not want to mod the heatsink further than soldering a copper block onto, which will not cause any damage/inefficiency. I question if "SEKISUI #5760" would be strong enough too support a large copper slab and a water block. I have a feeling ti would fall off. It might be worth trying though to see if it would work. I honestly doubt it would be a long term/long lasting method. Also whats the difference in "SEKISUI #5760" and indium 3 solder in thermal conductivity? indium 3 has 90% indium and 10% silver. indium is 81.8 W·m−1·K−1 and silver is 400+ W·m−1·K−1. I don't know how to average those numbers with a weight scale without googling an equation. Is that like 100 W·m−1·K−1? Is that even sufficient? that seems kinda low. Also SEKISUI tape is no longer on eBAY. They used to ship from IL but they took all their product off the internet and i dont know why. If 80-100 W·m−1·K−1 is a good level for this than i am going with my design for this because it is simple and easy. Doesn't require much work expect for the soldering. Plus it is a long term...well permanent solution. I wouldn't mind testing the tape to see if it works but i doubt it will. Might be a good idea to first try that to see how much of an impact it does on temps before i solder.

This is the only spec i can fine of the tape.....that does this mean 50m L * 1.24m W

Also the what waterblock you mentioned? I must ahev missed it. Is it the one you picture?

Also have you found any "SEKISUI #5760" there seems to only be like two places selling it and one is bulk buy from japan.

Also on your statement of the waterblock with the heat pipes. Copper is very conductive...having the waterblock on the heat pipes isn't that bad minus the fact that the solder is the hindering point because it is not as conductive as copper or silver.(about 1/4 as good) If i could just thermal paste the waterblock to the heat pipes it would be just fine. I was thinking that there could be a way to design that if there was enough space in my system. I could use two pieces of copper and put them on both sides of the heatpipes and put thermal paste in between and tighten them down like a sandwich on the heatpipes. This would be the best solution and a solution that would be redo able. But i doubt i have enough space on the bottom of my heatpipes....the space between the heat pipes and motherboard. It is just pushing it in my eyes(too high of a chance to loose contact and touch the MOBO and short it. I did this i would use the thermal adhesive and use screws/bolts to tighten it down. Don't get me wrong i will look into this idea the next time i open my laptop because it would be probably the best idea. Also thats the reason why I would put the copper slab over the entire heatpipes for maximum contact. That will heat to reduce the problem of the solder.

Also why is the enzotech the best one? Is it usable with the rasa kit?

EDIT: I also wonder if the solder would really be an issue because are not desktop IHS normally soldered to the chip?

 

anything is better then thermal tape. it's a compromise to use it. I think it would support the waterblock rather easily. it's really strong. It's a pain to remove it. you can buy it in many places. check ebay.

soldering is much better. actually, it's even better then any thermal paste. the only reason why thermal pastes are used is to close the gap between the cpu and the cooler. if you could solder the cpu to the coler, the thermal effeciency would be much higher. of course, that's not very practicle.

I still have some doubts about the efficency of what you are trying to do. I could be wrong but I think a strong fan would cool it more.

to route to the sides, you could for example drill some holes on the copper fins of the heatsink and place the connectors there.

enzotech heatsinks and waterblocks are made from forged copper.
EnzoTech
I'm biased I love their products. but I think in this particular case that the rasa block has a more restrictive waterflow. Don't known if it's usable, check the fittings.

you might find great deals on used watercooling parts in buy/sell of it foruns.

 

ok thanks. BTW i am not trying to be difficult by shooting you down on most of your stuff. I really value the advice and input. Just a lot i just dont agree with but advice is still advice and is always helpful with critiquing stuff. Your advice has helped me refine my ideas so thank you very much.

How is soldering better when it has 1/8-1/4 the thermal conductivity as of thermal paste....or even less if your using something like ICD?

Also the thermal tape is not on ebay anymore. There is only one guy from UK selling a little and its expensive. check it out. Maybe i am dumb and missed it but searched every keyboard for their tape i could think of.

Sorry not trying to be lazy but how do you know if their fittings or what fittings they use...i have never seen a water cooler before because my last desktop was so long ago they didn't really even exist. it was just before they started using heatpipes in headsinks lol. Back when the P4 was new lol.

I dont really see anything on fittings.

 

always nice to see nbr member building custom water coolers, i will be keeping an eye on this thread. i also did a bit of a water cooler for my m15x with cheaper older parts, it is now awaiting a new pump and tubing. hope everything works out, HopelesslyFaithful

 

got pictures of what you did to your m15x? I would be interested in seeing it. I'll amke sure i record and take picture of everything i do so people can use my ideas for their own projects. I just need a spare cooling assembly...still ahven't found one. Well i found one but its 50 bucks and i question if its actually the right version.

 

i got some pics took and old tt gpu cooler and cut it to size and a tt tidewater all-in-one liquid solution, i did however removed the original heatsink

 

interesting...you didn't burn out your ram? You don't have any cooling on your memory?

 

im still thinking of a way to cool the ram, no i never actually got to use it as the pump didnt work when i was testing it, i just mounted it to see the fit and see more options to route the tubing

 

I've a few meters of sekisui tape if you really want to buy it but I'm from europe too.
google products sekisui


Copper has a thermal conductivity of about 400 (watts per meter kelvin (W/(m·K)) or W·m−1·K−1).
For comparation Tuniq TX-4 (one of the best thermal pastes around) has a thermal conductivity of just 6.53W/mK. Not to mention when you use thermal paste there's always more air or space between the 2 components (microscopic), you cannot make a perfect contact area. so it would be a bit lower then that.

If you could melt copper and solder with it, it would be ideal.
sure it's kind of hard for doing that without advanced machines. but anyway if you use a standard soldering coponent, there will be an almost perfect contact between the pieces, therefore increasing thermal conductivity.
it all depends on the material you use.

What I feel is that you really need to read some watercooling topics on other foruns to be more familiar with such systems.

fittings depends on how you want to assemble the whole thing. but might be chalanging due to the bulky size or hard to remove. but there are quick release fittings.


Glad you disagree with me on some topics because I'm really looking forward to see someone put a waterblock above the heatpipes to see how it affects the performance because I don't want to do it myself.
If it works I might do the same thing instead of modding a heatsink to fit a waterblock.
so I'm wating for that to work

It's really a nice project.


EDIT: Nice stuff Mexic00ls. looks great. too bad the pump didn't work. It's really a nice way to do it, adapting an all ine one solution. I recommend the corsair hydro or similars. Of course such a solution has it's limitations but it will work and it will be cheap.

 

you can weld copper slaps to the copper waterblock and then use thermal pads to make contact to the memory chips and the extended slabs. You could also just get thermal tape and tape on some ram heatsinks. i ahve them linked in my cooling mod in my sig.

this is a thermal pad i bought for my memory. it does not have sticky stuff on it though..it also weighs like lead. and its thick so this might not work for you. Didn't work for me so i still have it sitting around.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/32081430063...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1180

ack what am i going to do with 50 meters
http://bestbyte.net/merchant/mercha...ode=COTISK02&Category_Code=COTI&Store_Code=BB

i miss the ability to buy 8 feet for 6.50 :/

also how does that thermal paste have only 6w/mk...this pad has 4....I have seen another thermal pad with 6 or 7 i thought.

again are you sure on those numbers?
http://innovationcooling.com/thermal.htm
NM I found it. It has like 4.5 So now soldering would be way better even with indium 3 It would be like 20 times better hahahah. How is thermal greese so low when its using diamonds and other things. Also how is that "thermal pad" 4 when ICD is 4.5...something doesn't add up.
http://innovationcooling.com/ICDDatasheet.htm

Also do you know the specs on the sekisui? I can't find anything on it


EDIT: Also i dont like how TX-4 is applied. I think the method ICD uses is best to prevent air pockets

 

cooling the ram is easy. so many ideas.

numbers for seikisui I guess is 1.25w/mk but I'm not sure. I'm sure it's the best thermal adhesive, better then 3M.
What could you do with 50meters? sell some on ebay.


I've seen a thermal pad with 7w/mk but they were expensive and I don't remember where.

how it is best a thermal paste? because of the surface area like I explained before. if you add a pad the surface of contact will be much less then with a paste.

you can make a nice experience to understand this principle. fill a recepient of rocks to the top until it's "full", then fill it with sand until it's "full" then you can fill it again with water. it will carry loads of water.
it gives you an idea how it works.

That's why fluids and gases are used to cool. water has a thermal conductivity of just 0.67w/mk. it's the flow and the radiator that is used to cool the fluid.

I don't like TX-4 it was just an example, but I don't like ICD either, it's very expensive, hard to apply, there's better and cheaper.
Also the website you showed is from the manufacturer.... would they show reviews where their paste performed worse? -.-
Anyway this is a very minor issue. 1ºC is nothing in a cooling system.

Also just because a paste is made from diamonds, the second best thermal material in the world, it doesn't mean it will be the best paste. Diamonds are not liquids so they need create some sort of paste.

Also premium thermal pastes are all overkill. I don't known why people give it so much important. Just try it. use a stock intel cpu cooler with ICD and then use a propper cooler like a scyte ninja with the most crappy paste you find. ICD isn't making any difference.
It's the cooling system that really cools the system. Actually you can even use more exoctic materials to fill the gap, like tooth paste. it will work too.

but if you want to known what is the best cooling material, it's helium II.

If I were you I would use thermal glue. It's the best way to bond things together, has a good thermal conductivity, non eletrically conductive (most ones), it's removable, easy to apply, and very cheap.
FUJIK Silicone Thermal Glue (50ml Grease-Like) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

I'm a fan of glues. I use eletrically conductive glue on many of my projects. It's expensive but it's well worth it. I love it for volt mods. Unfortunatelly it's expensive unlike thermal glue.

 

i am debating glue and soldering...i think for this solder will be best but i am still thinking about it. Also water has the highest specific heat, which makes it awesome

I need to find material on indium3 solder and find where to buy it. I want the 90:10 one but everytime i have looked at places its not that ratio it has copper and lead in it...psh

 

Your best bet on paste+pads is the coolaboratory one. They're made with Gallium

 

you know i need to mount the water block right? that is why i am going with a copper slab and soldering it to the heatpipes and then screwing the water block to copper slab

 

really nice suggestion. First of all, gallium is a liquid metal. how is he supposed to add that to the watercooling rig / heatpipes without any leak to other coponents? it's eletrically conductive.
and second, do you known what gallium does to alluminium alloys?
STAY AWAY FROM GALLIUM.
look what will happen:
Destroying a coke can with Gallium. ( Aluminium + Gallium ) - YouTube

just forget about that. It's a pain of a job to solder all that and probably you won't get more then 2ºC difference from using thermal glue that is cheap, removable and easy to apply.
Also soldering on a heatpipe is a VERY BAD idea. you can seriously injure yourself. you are warned.
if you want to risk your life, the best thing to use as solder is pure silver, next is pure copper. people solder copper all the time, usually pipes. it requires some skills.
something more easy as you found out is indium. specially with silver.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INDIUM-5-SI...067?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item4ab6e6d913
80% Indium, 15% lead and 5% silver

but really, all this work for just about 2ºC? just use glue.

Also about the coolant, I'm not sure if water is the best. I'm trying to find out what is the best coolant. Galistan (68.5% Ga, 21.5% In and 10% Sn Melting point: -19 °C) sounds great if you only use copper components but it's very expensive. Maybe mixed with water. or maybe copper aditives.

 

you can't get pure silver or copper because the temps are the same as copper and silver which is 1000 or 2000 C...forget which it is. Indalloy 3 is 90% indium and 10% silver that'll be 80-100w blah blah(whatever that formula is), which is 1/4 as good. Also it has a solidus state of 143 and liquidis state of 237 so it is easy to work with. I have metal vises that i'll use and a oxygen-setaline torch and i'll buy a new soldering iron. My dads and father-in-laws is like 20-40 years old and i rather buy a decent one. I wont even need to touch the metal in the process. There will be two of us working on it so we can do it with easy. It is definitely not a one person job. Also talked to my dad today and I figured the exact process we will use. It is a great idea. I am going to build two mock example to practice on to find out exactly what is the best method.

All I need is to find this stupid solder...i find versions of it with lead and i dont want lead. Also need my spare heatsink. svl7 in techinferno was saying that it wont work or be a waste of time if it is not directly on the cpu die but i disagree. I think it'll work and worth a shot. It is not perfect but a fairly easy process and requires little modification to the physical cooling system. only thing is being done is soldering a copper slab. Also he recommend to make sure my MOBO can handle the overvoltage first but i dont see how i can do that without cooling. If i try to overvolt now I'll hit 100 C in a min of load. I barely can handle 85 TDP I doubt i can handle 100+ TDP

nm it is 67w blah blah according to this

http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=08d1a1dea82b4e13ac90e38eecb0b919&ckck=1

 

you can get pure silver or copper. it's just hard to solder it.
Don't known why you insist on soldering. it won't give you much more cooling.
Don't known why you don't want lead. I'm sure a small percentage won't make any noticable difference.

I've to warn you again about playing with heatpipes. you can seriously injure yourself.

with that said I wish you all the luck.

I've my doubts about the colling effeciency of putting a waterblock next to heatpipes. I'm looking forward to see your results. I'm crossing my fingers. Really hope it works. it will make mods much more easy to do.

I just remembered. why to use a cpu waterblock? Of course a custom build one would be the best but that's hard to do. so what about other waterblocks that might work better? you could even use several waterblocks.
search for some ram and mosfet waterblocks.


I really hope it works. I think using ram waterblocks is the best way. it doesn't even need extensive modding. and with some luck, there isn't a single part of the notebook that needs to be modded. everyone could do it without being afraid of losing warranty.
you can cover much more area. it's much more thin. flow might be slower but you aren't going to run many waterblocks so it won't be a problem.

 

ok now you got me interested in this idea maybe even added to mine...where are these ram waterblocks and what do they look like. I dont want lead because its hazardous and i want to solder because it is a stronger bond. You will see how i will solder it. I dont know if it'll work but i hope so it is a bit unconventional.

 

I don't known much about soldering so I'm going to shut up.

you have hundreds of models of mosfet and ram to pick.
Volt Reg/Mosfet Blocks | Page 1 | Sort By: Product Title A-Z - FrozenCPU.com  
Water Blocks RAM | Page 1 | Sort By: Product Title A-Z - FrozenCPU.com  

for the porpose it's probably much better idea then a cpu or gpu or chipset waterblock.

 

how would i mount these? space is tight and this looks like it would stick out more

 

use your imagination.

that's how I would do it:

 

again though how do you connect it to the heatpipe...it has to be mounted to it some how.


if by your picture you mean putting two of them on the sides of the heatpipe that will be nearly impossible to fit in my laptop plus the sides have no surface area.

I like the idea of maybe adding them to the copper slab i plan on soldering. So on the heatpipes away from the cpu i add this to the top of it. I think thats an easy way of doing it.

 

it firts more easily then a cpu waterblock that's for sure.

but it's just an idea.
I don't like to modify the notebook internal parts. or at least, parts that I cannot easily replace for others. because I can mess up while modding and/or because I lose the warranty.
If you just modify the back plastic part and the heatsink and if the notebook is damage you can always replace the parrts and send it to RMA

you could also use copper pipes as waterblock / pipes.

 

nice part on me my warranty has been up for a long time and i am hopefully getting a spare part. If i can't get a spare part i'll try the thermal clue first to see if it works

 

alright i have been talking to Jim Hisert and this is the method i most likely will use. A very slow one though. I think i have to leave it at 140psi for like 40 days lol

Indium Bonding and Indium Cold Welding - Jim Hisert | INDIUM

 

you are completely nuts. you could do it in seconds with thermal glue and make it like 1 or 2C more hot.
but go for it. looking forward to see more updates.