Upgrading netbook screen from 1024x600 to 1366x768

Hello

I have a MSI U100Plus netbook, which has a 10.2" inch 1024x600 resolution LED screen and I bought a 1366x768 new LED screen replacement (model LTN101AT03-301)



The problem is that the stock screen connects with a 30pin cable (K19-3030019-H58)



and the new screen has a 40 pin slot

.

So I bought a 40pin to 30pin adapter


which fitted very well both to the 30pin cable and to the 40pin monitor slot. When I turned on the netbook to see if the new screen will work, the adapter must had been fried instandly (there was the smell and I see a tear on the adapter's wiring) and the new screen of cource didn't work.

Is there any adaptor to use in order to connect the new screen ?

this is the wiring I made






and this is probably my burned adapter

​

 

The display probably has a different pin layout. You will need to look up the data sheet and compare it with the pin layout of the original panel. If it doesn't match. you will need to solder a cable with the correct layout.

 

+1

Also; checked the old panel on Panelook? The 768p only needs 3.3V to drive the backlight, if the 600p used the 5V variety ...

Yes, though it is a bit weird that it'd fry the adapter; it has no components other than the wiring. Since these are identical, each should all be perfectly capable to handle power draw ... unless the burned wire was faulty to begin with (locally diminished cross-section). Or, alternatively, one of the connectors was not fully inserted; there's several +V and grounds, if one or more grounds didn't make proper contact then the rest would've taken a heavier load than intended.

Maybe a good thing that the adapter fried though, that may have saved the panel.

 

Here is the comparison

 

Good, unfortunately the data is deficient on the TN101AT03-301 and couldn't find spec. sheet either. However, likely candidate for the interface connector is a regular 40 pin I-PEX:

Spoiler: HSD100IFW1-A00 vs. I-PEX 40 pin lvds

Need to verify to be certain; look closely at the panel's connector for any markings. If it is as pictured above then it's easy to see what happened; pins #24/25/26 all carry 5V, but only #25 goes to a ground, shorting it. Now, you want to make certain the panel is still fine; use box cutter to slice pin #25 and re-connect the panel. If all is well you'd probably be looking at a working, but very dimly lit panel (backlight's unpowered).

 

I have the datasheet for the TN101AT03. You are very right on the diagram you posted.

I don't see any markings of burning

Spoiler: panel connector

How to slice it ? I mean, by which pattern (way).

 

Oh, just carefully cut it somewhere along the tracings of the 30->40 adapter. Don't bother about #24 and #26, might take these out as well. Make sure it's a nice, wide cut, otherwise it might arc. Can't see image you posted, btw ...

 

(I fixed the link of the image above). The 25th pin seem to be already cut by the burn, at the middle of this large marking, somewhere near the letter "O". Anyway if u want I will try it latter (I have to open the netbook once again for this).

Spoiler: adapter

Don't the pins from both sides need rearrangement (I mean a custom LVDS) to match each other ? For examble the 24,25,26 pins need to be forwarded to 38,39,40 (according to the diagram).

Whats the difference from this adapter ?

 

Good, but was hoping for something that would verify the pin layout; the datasheet is for a "D" series, not specifically the 201/301/801. No matter, chances are it's identical anyway.

Yes, very much so. However, there's no need for that just yet; all signal pins do align, so if the panel's still working then you only need to disable the 25/25/26 and you'd expect a working, dim panel (no power to backlight). If it runs, then you're ok to solder on those bypass wires. Remember that you don't need to re-assemble the entire display and lid; just connect cable and place lcd on a towel or something.

Also may want to cut pin #5 and solder a wire to #35 (for brightness control). This is a bit of a gamble; the HannStar sheet is sparse on the pwm frequency and the only data seems to indicate 20KHz for maximum brightness, which is rather unlikely (very high value). The Samsung uses 200Hz-1KHz from low to high, which is normal. If the 20KHz is correct then worst scenario is that brightness still doesn't function; lowest value will be higher than 1KHz.

Would've been easier; no cutting or soldering involved. Just align the wires according to the specific layout.

 

After i do what u suggest, better i buy the IPEX cable

Spoiler: IPEX

and rearrange the pins connecting to the netbook side, solder them into new male slot

Spoiler

in order to fit into the slot of the motherboard

Spoiler

And the cable that will be created will be like this :

Spoiler

A key info for the cable is datasheet of the motherboard

Spoiler

The LED of the new screen is powered with 6V and the motherboard give 5V. Is there any solution for that ?
Also the 20KHz feature u mentioned above, means that the screen cant be used by this netbook. Right ?

 

Sounds like a plan .

Wouldn't be concerned about a 1V difference, though you could check beforehand by reconnecting the 5V pins; just use a single heavier wire and cross-solder it over all three pins at once at both ends of the adapter. Of course, if you do that then another cable is no longer necessary ...

The 20KHz is no issue, other than that brightness control might be nearly useless. Though that schematic shows the motherboard is compatible with a 300Hz Innolux panel as well; perhaps the two " Reserved" options are somewhere in-between. Not sure how that 0/1 switch is working though; dip switch/resistor? Seems a bit too much effort to enable screen compatibility.

 

I sliced the 3 pins. Nothing changed. Monitor didn't show anything.
i don't have a sodler kit for now to solder a thicker wire.
This guy here indeed used a similar adapter and the screen worked but was dimed because of the reason you descripted earlier.
Anyway I will try to buy the proper IPEX cable for the monitor ...

 

That's not a good sign; the panel ought to have worked, only dimly lit. The short must've destroyed something; trace #25 and the immediate area surrounding it and look for damage. R = resistor, C = capacitor and F = fuse; with any luck there was a fuse in the way.

 

I am not seeing anything wrong

 

You need to peel away the protective tape and, without a multimeter, look for burned/damaged components on the board (or buy a new panel, of course). R = resistor, C = capacitor and F = fuse:

Spoiler: checking pcb for damage

 

Same thought again for me :

 

The "F 1" labelled "N" is indeed an smd fuse. To check whether it's done it's job; could hook up a battery+led and see if it lights up.