This might be stupid, but i want your opinion - Water cooler in a notebook

Hello community

I´m facing a dilemma here that keeps me from sleeping and i really want an opinion.
I have a Clevo P775TM1-G, with a GTX 1080 and a I7 8700K, and as you might think, the fans are really really loud, and the temperature of the GPU is very high 90º
I try everything to drop this, but with no success, in order:
-Thermal Grizzly Condunaut, dropped to 83º, but i bet it would go higher
-polish the heatsinks
- tape the fans and heatsink, cause the airflow was not at 100% going into the heatsink (this was made by Clevo)
- They sandpaper them also
and after all this, nothing changed, the fans are still loud, not throttling, cause in conversations with my Clevo representative about the 90º, they only made an undervolting in the BIOS and tell me to keep it that way, that this system is normal to work with temps like this.

But i would like to change this

i saw this video on youtube and also others similar to this one, and i really think this is indeed a good idea, it doesn´t violate nothing, it´s just putting it on the top of the heatsink, nothing more.

So i´m thinking and thinking about this, cause if i have to buy a cooler master storm F-17 sh***, cause there is none better than the expensive SF-19, i will have more fans, more noise, and no down temps at all, and we all know this right?

If i´m forced to have a laptop cooler, i prefer put some kind of grid that supports the machine, or aluminium case, with the radiators facing down, with the laptop lifted enough to the radiators have space to be there.

I don´t move that much with my laptop, so i see no problem in terms of portability, but if i had to take it somewhere, i just cut the strings and take the radiator out. Once again i see no inconvenience here

Now, after all this crazy, or not, thing......what can you advise me? Could this be a solution to have a quiet and cool environment? I really am tempted to fight this 90º or else in a year or so i´m without graphics card

The doubt is, would this work and worth the investing?

Thank you all in advance

P.S. - The only problem that i´m facing is connecting the cooler externally without a 220w power supply, but i saw also a tutorial to connect the cooler externally, i´m thinking on a multi fan cable with 1, 3 pins & 4 pins connectors to a 4 Modex PWN https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br...i-fan-5x-coolers-fans-3-4-pinos-molex-pwm-_JM , cutting the black and red wire of the molex and connecting it to a 12v charger that comes with a 2 hole plug, you only have to put the cables plugged in there and adjust the voltage, it´s like a cell phone charger https://shopping.pt/carregador-de-p...w5X9o7bDruyKLi8dP_gJZ13apGQCYsDIaAomLEALw_wcB

One problem is finding the cable to buy it on europe, or other country, this website doesn´t ship to my country

 

I'll get around to videoing my set up that I recently finished... Sometime

https://m.imgur.com/a/sQV6O

https://forums.overclockers.com.au/threads/detachable-hybrid-watercooling-for-laptop.1201393/

A fair bit of work and planning, about 16 months from first thinking about it, and it's rough, but it works great. 500W system draw and it's cool and quiet as anything. I'm not sure how well those kind of non-permanent set ups work.

I haven't totalled what I spent but nothing too expensive. Tools pretty cheap too.

Takes up a lot of space but I chose an overkill 360mm rad and 6 weak cheap fans in push/pull for quietness.

Portable too; quick disconnects leak a few drops on removal but only takes a minute or so to unplug it and clean that up.


The shorter term solution is turn your GPU into a 1080 max-Q by limiting its power consumption (via modded vbios with adjustable power limit or by limiting its turboboost voltage using the afterburner curve... Another thing I should turn into a video.) reducing down to 150W will lose you only 10% or so performance tops


Also power supplies are no problem. I have a standard psu with a little power switch board. There are also 5V+12V powerbricks with a 4 pin molex output you can use. I have a Phobya one with 50W max output I'm going to use eventually for this setup

 

Wau 50 degrees, what a dream, but you had quite a work there, could the method that I posted really work? That’s the question

But awesome job, I get 19000 benchmark like I’m now

And I deduce that this is not just a crazy idea, in fact works, but how to turn those dam wires to the external charger is driving me nuts

 

what do you guys think about what would be the best quiet water cooler for this situation, to stop the fan noise and this heating?

 

Something like this is what I have:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2LS2AO/ref=psdc_10967101_t5_B002TJNDU4 (1st example from google not a specific recommendation)
12V x 2A means 24W max, that should be more than enough for a pump + one fan. You could go for 12V only ones if you know the pump and fans are 12V and there's no chance you want to use a low noise cable which needs 5V (actually you shouldn't use one of those if there's no 5V load on the power source as that will send 5V backwards into the PSU which is Not Good - a normal PC system with DVD drives, hard drives and other loads on the 5V rail avoids this problem) - at least my MCP655 pump has its own speed control to keep noise down.

It'd be always on when plugged in (like your laptop charger is) but you could use a remote control wireless powerpoint as an on/off switch as I do.
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/3-Wireless-Remote-Control-Outlets/dp/B00OL07IUK

My main concern about that kind of setup was always the immovability of it (my primary goal was to retain portability) but also I wonder about the thermal interface between the heatsink and the heatplate of the CLC, it really needs to be clamped in place to be effective and not move about all over the place and get messy and/or dangerous.

As for speed/noise control you may be able to use a 3 pin fan controller like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9...ex_Connector_to_Dual_3-Pin_Fan_Connector.html which would work by controlling voltage, or 4 pin https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1 working on PWM depending on what plugs the CLC has and whether it has any speed control capability.

 

That's it my friend, this is the answer that I needed, the only problem is buying this in Europe cause I'm from Portugal and I don't know how they call here those peripherals

But this is it, thank you very much for your reply it really helped

Just one last question, with your rig mounted what are your temps? Did they achieved what you expected?

I'm thinking on buying the cooler master 120
Just to test, I was wondering how to plug it in and now I know, if it works I could buy a dual fan cooler if it gives me more good results, I just want quietness and get out of those 90 degrees

 

Another question that i have my friend, because of the fan controller, for you to have a 3 pin fan controller, the 4 pin connection of the water cooler has to be plugged in to another power source righ? Since you stay with 2 molex connectors this way, but you can plugged them to something like this http://www.dx.com/pt/p/molex-4-pin-...6dHx5yakQegzXIe7v5BoCiGQQAvD_BwE#.WprtyedUkuU to be possible to connect to one only molex power source right?

I don´t know if i´m explaining myself good enough, but what i have in mind is something like this, in this order
Water cooler, Then the variable speed controller plugged in to the 3 pin fan, witch connects the molex to the 4-pin-1-to-3-splitter-power-cable
Then you have the 4 pin connector that you can plug in to a cable like this https://www.cablematic.pt/ref/ML67?...2j4MOP3TWtMR1NORNVKtmwK8MGILNumhoCNRwQAvD_BwE, that ends on the molex power supply, giving 12v to both 3 pin and 4 pin of the water cooler, controlling the fan speed with the Manual_12V_Variable_Speed_Controller

So, one power source, one 4 pin 1 to 2 splitter power cable, the manual variable speed controller, one cable 4 pin lp4 molex plug to 4 pin male, and one water cooler, this is what i need to buy right? And some strings.....

 

Please just check if i´m right on this to plug in the master cooler liquid 120 to the external power source

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X2XBMA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3FIFZJ143SIQV&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067SLY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A24GENDIDV9018&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072M2HKSN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D2LS2AO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A11PO5E8WWIM7V&psc=1

Is this all i need to plug it in?

 

I cant find something like noctua, they answered that it won't work with a 4 pin to Molex cable, since both exits of the master cooler are 4 pin out, do you have any other options? I looked everywhere

 

Can anyone help me please on choosing the parts to plug in a Master Cooler Liquid 120 please?

Thank you in advanced

 

Anyone please?

 

I wouldnt know about fan control, but there are external power adapters for fans.

I would look up the Cooler Master U3 Fan mods to see the various examples and most of which provide links / part lists.

 

I just want to say that it´s possible to put a water cooler in your notebook, and have extreme good results

After making several attempts, like applying Thermal Grizzly Condunaut (Liquid Metal), the best I got on the GPU were 83º. Polish with Car polish the heatsinks, given that to remove this type of paste is only possible this way and 5 hours later in each one ..... I tested Artic silver 5, the worst effect ever paste, .... sandpaper the heatsinks like mirrors, send it to Clevo ... etc, etc, etc .... I thought of a water cooler after watching a video on Youtube. I bet on the Cooler Master Liquid 280 Pro, I tested on the top of the heatsinks first, I got 80º, so I applied it directly on the chip and didn´t get a big change ..... 90's ..... I decided then one more time .. .. looked again for the best thermal paste possible .. and based on ceramic, the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut my friends, after applied and only with the heatsink, the temp went down from the 90º to an astounding 78º!. : Post this, I decided to make 2 small plates to put the tabs better, made of aluminium to hold the water cooler better, as you can see in the photos.

I'm having a temp. maximum at this time of 63º.

With this I say goodbye, and I can confirm that it is possible to put a water cooler in a notebook and lower temperatures to results better than a desktop

As for mobility (i don´t have this problem), just cut the tabs, put the cover and you are ready to go. takes 5 minutes

Thank you all

 

Have you seen the Alienware 17 watercooling mod?

 

IDK what to say, except you got what you bought, desktop parts crammed into a small laptop, and it's gonna run hot - and very noisy.

I try to warn people away from these Clevo LGA laptops as often as possible, as this is the reaction from normal people when they try to actually live with one of these heaters.

Normal people, not "enthusiasts" that seem immune to the realities of noise, heat, and bulk required to cool effectively, can't stand the noise. And, even the enthusiasts get shuffled off out of ear-shot when using them, or get yelled at - louder than normal so they can hear their roommates complaints.

My recommendation would be to stop right now before you hack up your laptop, and return it for a refund or store credit and get a nice BGA laptop that has plenty of power, but doesn't need to flex fans quite so loud.

Something like an MSI GT75 with an 8750 or 8850 CPU - maybe stay away from the temptation to get the 8950HK CPU as that unit has 460w of power supplies to power it, so I think that one is gonna be loud and noisy too.

Maybe drop down from the 1080 to a 1070 too? Keeping with the theme of "powering down" to reduce noise.

Or, maybe build a nice desktop in a "silent" case, that's what I do, with plenty of baffling and low noise fans - I still prefer Noctua large coolers for LGA cooling over water cooling.

You could Frankenstein up a water cooled laptop, and then you'll never be able to sell it, or maybe just scale back a little and get a nice quiet laptop that will still give you good gaming performance.

 

If anyone wants some custom copper parts cut (2D only, not 2.5D like in the images above), and can provide 1:1 scale files of the contours to be cut, I can quote costs on the water jet cutter I run at work.

 

WOW where can i get that part????

 

bring it on

 

@alexhawker just offered to quote some.

Otherwise they are up for preorder on the 51nb website.

The standalone heat-sink is marked at ~£135 where as the set (incl. pump & radiator) is marked at ~£200

https://forum.51nb.com/thread-1825459-1-1.html

 

would this fit on a P775TM1-G?

 

its not a question of fitting, its a question of design.

 

Note that I'm talking about 2D only - the part shown has some milling done to achieve two thicknesses in different areas of the part.

 

If you are this out of your depth, I don't think going into such a serious mod is a good idea for you. Yes you *could* do it, but why? Unless you do it right in a professional way it's gonna be jank af and really defeat the entire point of sinking all that money into a "laptop". If you are dead set on doing it, the cheapest and most straight forward way is by low-temp soldering copper tubing to run across your heat sinking plates as has been shared in those other mod pics. Even those gigantic couplers are not matched for the system (no offense). At the very least you really need to study up and make sure you absolutely know your hardware and interface compatibilities 100% inside and out. As others have stated, you will probably never sell it once you take it that far. Hopefully you have the right tools and skills to not ruin it completely- drills, files, dremel, torches, oven, clamps, bending jigs, etc. Beware not to overheat existing heatpipes or you could really ruin your cooling system and make it worse than stock- they have a limit to how much they can be heated when working around them. I would have to agree with hmscott's post on this matter.

These are the kind of mods I would reserve for old laptops on their death beds that you want to have some fun with and learn.

P.S.) You could save yourself a lot of money by running your own wires and soldering them direct effectively bypassing the connectors on the ends. If you really insist on using specific connector tips, why not just cut them off of salvaged hardware at a much cheaper or free cost to you? It really depends how modular/portable you want the final product to be.

 

OP look at the IC Graphite Pad - a reusable alternative to thermal pastes, would be a useful way to not have lots to clean up with repeated mounting/unmounting

 

Impressive none the less, but looks crazy

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/v315w4np9c6zpqw/20180529_213238.jpg?dl=0 ... I got these right here lol.

 

4 blocks? holy, whats that in?

 

It's an HP VoodooDNA Fireburd 802

 

An older machine for sure but love what you did with it all the same

 

That's actually were made for that machine. Its OEM

 

"They dont make em' like they used to" seems to fit here...

 

Hey i'm in the same boat here. But i dont want to do any soldering or modding, just adding an old gpu heatsink to the heat pipes the laptop using a graphite thermal pad to cunduct the heat. What i'm most worried about is damaging something, because to fix the heatsink it would have to apply some degree of pressure to the heatpipes. However i checked the technical manual of the laptop and i would not be applying pressure to the motherboard. Could someone more experienced share his thoughts on this please?

 

hey guys, im in the same page with you, however i would like to ask you if its a good idea to use thermal pads (like the ones on the GPU's) in between the water cooler and the heatpipes... my idea is just to let the laptop's heatpipe sit on top of the water cooler...

 

I've tried that. The impact is underwhelming.

First iteration I tried had a couple of shims glued with AS adhesive to copper pipe sitting on top of cpu HS. It made 2-3C difference tops.

Right now I have a 40x40mm copper block sitting on top of as much of the CPU heatpipes as possible (a little under half) with 1mm pad. Just tonight I turned off all the fans to see how it would go. It could handle about 40W worth of cpu cooling before temps started getting beyond 70C.

Compared to the 1080sli where the pipes are soldered to the vapour chamber heatsink and it cools 400W worth of GPU below ~60C all on its own with zero fans needed. Lots of surface area for contact there though and I split it into two for even more.

If you look at pics of my 1st attempt, the P370EM with 1070s, see how little contact is needed between pipe and heat plate when solder is used, to remove a lot of heat. They were drawing 200W at around 75C-80C (on stock heatsinks made for ~75W GPUs) I use 6mm ID 1mm thick pipe. The tubes in those chinese mods look smaller than that.

 

I see, well this is my first approach to water cool something lol, by the way... Your system is flawless. Mine is a i5 7300hq and a GTX 1060 gb. I have undervolt CPU by -100mv and created a curve on the GPU. However the CPU is around 85c and gpu is 70c.. what if I glue with thermal adhesive a block of Cooper on top of the current heatsink with bolt thread to screw in the corsair H45... In your experience will it work or better to weld the Cooper instead of adhesive?

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/m18r4-water-cooling-transform.822083/

 

Sir, that's a super clean job. Can you list the hardware you used please. I hope to find them in Spain. Does it matter that the loop is so close? Is it good to give more room on the way out?

 

You have to ask the other member. I’m just sharing info

 

I just have one question about this mod and others like it. Why would one do it? This isn't meant as a disrespectful flame or anything like that. It's that laptops by their design are just a study in design compromises for the sake of portability. While I find the work interesting and cool in an academic way, I don't understand why one would sacrifice the only advantage laptops have over desktops by making these modifications, unless it's just to see how much of a temp/performance difference you could make (like derBauer using N2 and such,) then I get it. If this is a laptop you need to lug around, then all the extra hardware would seem to me to be a disadvantage to you. Again, I'm just curious.

 

There are three types of notebook users: those who want a device as as black box to get a specific task done; those who want a device to get a specific task done, but are curious how to improve performance; and those who seek challenges to break boundaries that those in the second group think impossible to accomplish. Do we need to push our laptops to 5.2 gHz all the time? Not for me. Do I want to see how far I can push it until I need to take an action? Yes.

These types of mods show what can be done with existing technology. Not for the feint of heart. In many ways, such achievements can trickle down to more typical users. We get access to better processors as well as codes such as Throttlestop.

 

Ah okay, I get that. I got my Omen 15 so I could game on the go without breaking the bank. I have a lot of respect for the budding derBauer’s out there. I just always figured that this was what desktop rigs were for.

 

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...001&pvid=8aed78c0-9970-4162-961e-92b0cc3fa40e

 

I agree; which is why I spent extra time planning and finding parts to make sure my setup didn't sacrifice anything. I use quick disconnects with internal o-rings in mine which take 5 seconds each to connect or disconnect and are leak free. Most of the trouble in fitting it is because of the size of those darn things.

It's still just as useable on air, and no less transportable than stock (half a kilo extra is meaningless when it already weighs over 5). I just leave the loop setup on my desk.

I intend to have this laptop last a while and I use it quite a lot which is why I would prefer operating temps between 25-55C rather than 45-90C

 

For most , people like me don't have anything else better to do . Lol modding is fun.

 

Unfortunately everything so far is relying on off board systems.
Yon need an enclosed pump and a radiator system, otherwise its all extra bulk like the: https://www.asus.com/Laptops/ROG-GX700VO/
For an onboard water pump, stop modding tower components to notebooks, think small, human body small:

The Circulatory Assist micro-pump is the size of a AA battery with an outer body diameter of 14 mm, length of 49 mm, weight of 25 grams and pumps up to 3 liters of blood per minute. This has to last, the patient is depending on it, no room for failure here.
http://www.prweb.com/releases/synergy/device/prweb545582.htm
Personally, I would place the pump after the radiators, it will extend the life of the pump as there will be less heat getting to it.

There are also micro gear pumps.

http://products.flightworksinc.com/category/micro-gear-pumps

 

Nice idea but medical devices are usually insanely expensive due to regulatory costs and the extortion cost inflation cascades inherent in the medical industry (like how private insured patients are often charged shedloads more for the same line items...)

What are the costs of those smaller gear pumps and are they quiet? That was my main reason for not pursuing an integrated system. A lot of work to just trade fan whine for pump buzz otherwise.

 

I work at the Mazankowski Alberta Heart Institute, they just threw out 3 of them that didn't test up to specs pre op.
They get tested 5, maybe 6 times before they get to surgery.
Maybe 4 out of 10 make it to surgery.

Gear pumps are quiet, its in the circulatory/infusion equipment for plasma transfer.