Alienware Laptop Paint Mods

I've posted these before over in the Alienware forum but I've only just noticed this section. I enjoy giving these older machines a fresh new look and I've never liked the grey paint scheme they went for years ago after the M17x and M18x.
So far I've repainted a 13 R1 (Gloss CAT yellow), 13 R2 (Matte Black), and M17x R3 (Matte Pink and White). I am just about to start work on a 17 R1 (Gloss White). I'm definitely not a professional at this but it's all a bit of fun.
Here are a few quick snapshots.

 

Looks fantastic from here!

Those older Alienware designs still look great to me.

Charles

 

Thanks for the feedback! I painted the old M17x pink and white for my wife as a surprise and she loves it.

I just stripped my Alienware 17 down to barebones last night so hopefully I'll get to put some primer on her tonight before going Gloss white.

 

I have never strip paint off when I do paint my laptops.

What do you use to strip paint?

 

I don't bother stripping the paint. What I meant was I pulled the machine apart. Removed the GPU, motherboard, storage, etc.

 

i really love this color combi it's just like my guitar....smile.

 

Thanks Mike. The wife loves it

 

Hey, I'm going to repaint my r4, any advice on what type of paint, primer and sand paper I'd be best using? also once removed the soft touch coating, is there any way to remake it? Thanks

 

Firstly, do all of this at your own risk. There are many things that can go wrong.

Do you mean the M17x R4? You cannot get the soft-touch back once you have painted or damaged it. You'd need to buy a new lid or palmrest, depending on which one you mess with. I did paint the soft-touch lid on the pink R3 and it came out pretty good but I wouldn't throw it in a laptop bad and expect it to stay that way for long.
Any decent primer should work fine. I use Rustoleum 2X sprays and they do a primer, big range of colours and the clear or satin clear coat. Read the drying/re-coating instructions as they will be different for each type.
I use 1000 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Make sure the paper is nice and wet to reduce scratching.
Find a clean area to spray, free from small particles that can hover in the air or you will be forever sanding back your coats. I use a cheap bench tent to spray in but it probably needs replacing soon. It's best to cover any of your body that has hair or small hairs will find their way onto your wet paint. I still haven't learnt my lesson with this one.
You'll find that the sprays will say something like, 'recoat within 30 mins or after 48 hours'. I have tried to do the fast recoat and it usually doesn't come out as well as it does when you wait 48 hours between coats. Be prepared to take a few weeks to finish the job though.
Use a good painters tape for taping off the edges that you don't want painted.
It may take a little longer but I suggest to remove all parts including the motherboard. It makes painting much easier and safer.

 

I guess i could update this thread with a few other machines I have done since these ones. Here are my two M18x R2's

 

Two 17 R1's

 

Thankyou for the reply, I’ll try my best, I love those m18x’s they look amazing!

 

Thanks. The blue one is my main machine but the white one looks really nice. I've been thinking about keeping it and grabbing another 1070 or a 1060 but it's on eBay and Gumtree down here.

I just bought another 17 R1 today so I may make it another project.

 

These are sick!! Great job. I like the blue showing off its metallic flakes under the sun.

You ever thought about Cerakote? I heard the stuff is military grade and practically indestructible. Would love your next one would be Cerakote Polar Blue with a touch of gloss to it.

 

Thanks mate. It's just a pity I don't use the old girl outside but she does look pretty nice.

Never heard of Cerakote but I'm just having a look now. It looks like they use it on firearms. I got the other 17 yesterday but it's in fantastic condition so I probably won't bother modding it but you never know.

 

I believe Cerakote started on firearms because it has to be so damn durable and resilient to scratches and chips. Then I've seen other people have done them to everything else including laptops. Just a thought.

Dude, I used to owned everyone of your Alienware and now I missed them even more after how good you made them look. Awesome job!

 

It's just a fun side hobby I have in my (rare) spare time after work and the kids and it helps if I can make a few extra bucks to keep the wife off my back. I'm just happy that so many people still enjoy these old machines.

I appreciate the feedback! Cheers.

 

Started work on my M15x while I wait for a new board to come from China.
Prepped and primed so far before it goes Gloss White.







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Nice, me likey

 

Did the first two layers of base coat yesterday. I'll do a light wet sand tonight and throw another light coat on tomorrow. I'll give it a few days to cure and then do the clear coat.

It should look pretty sharp.

 

good job bro. I had an Alienware M14x R1 for years, and if I had the experience or the balls you had to recoat it, it would've looked awesome.

 

Thanks. It was a little daunting the first time and I've made a few mistakes but you can always sand it back and start again.

 

Hi, what spray can did you use for the blue M18x R2 ? it looks amazing with the glittery effect, however it's pretty glossy right ?

 

Thanks man. I used an auto touch-up spray and the paint is called Delft Blue. Something similar should be available in other countries. I used this one because it's the same colour as one of my old cars (below). I use a Rustoleum gloss clear coat spray over this to protect the base layer. If you don't want it as glossy you could try using a satin clear coat. I always use a primer before the base coat as well.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p...-up-paint---delft-blue-150g-dsh85/356906.html

https://www.rustoleum.com.au/product-catalog/consumer-brands/ultra-cover-2x/clear

 

Thanks you, I'm gonna soon receive an M17x R4 with a very bad display assembly painting job, what do you think I should start with ? removing old paint ? chemically or with sand paper ? or a little bit of sand paper then new coat ?
Also is it possible to paint the aluminum/magnesium part of my M6700 in an other color while keeping the "metal" feeling ?

 

I don't know anything about the M6700 and have never seen one up close so it's hard to say. This auto paint goes on quite thick so I would imagine that you'll lose the light aluminum feeling.

The M17x R4 has the rubbery Soft-touch material on the lid of the display assembly. Did they paint over the Soft-touch? Got a picture of it?

 

It is possible to paint over the Soft-touch but I don't know how durable it is. I painted my wife's M17x R3 but it just sits on her desk so it doesn't get shoved into a laptop bag and banged around.

I lightly sanded the soft-touch and then put down a few good layers of primer with light sanding between coats. Then probably 3 base coats and 2-3 satin clear coats.

 

And did you ever tried a covering on damaged/scratched Soft-Touch parts ? the palmrest on my M6700 is in bad condition :/

 

No covering (if you mean a wrap), just the respray on the Soft-touch lid as per above. I'm sure a wrap would be a good way to go if there is one available for your M6700.

 

Do you know if the alienhead is sold separatly ? the previous just painted over it... Also I think I can say goodbye to the soft touch, it was painted to hide big scratches so I think my best solution is to get rid of the paint and the remaining of the soft touch then paint it again.

 

Not sure if you can buy the Alien head on it's own. You can just grab a new lid off ebay, I got one recently for an R4 rebuild for about $37USD and it was brand new (with the head). I made an offer, link below.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Del...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'm in the middle on an M14x rebuild right now and I have removed all the soft-touch from the lid and palmrest. It's not hard but takes a little while.

 

Your paint jobs are amazing. Just needed to pop in and say that.

 

Thanks for that.


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